New Routes - North Devon & Cornwall

Pitch descriptions:
none

Additional info:
none

Submitted by : Andy Morris
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Indian Buttress
Date of ascent : 29/08/07
Route name : The Daily Heil
Length/grade/stars : 50 foot, HVS 5b,
Climbers : Alex Gaastra, Andy Morris, Tim Wait
Start location:
The "central overhanging crack" mentioned in the description for Spirit.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up a groove into the crack, following it over a small bulge to the top. Good gear throughout, but with some strenuous bridging moves

Additional info:
Onsight. No fixed gear.

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Cligga Head, central face
Date of ascent : 03/04/2009
Route name : Fumble with my Crumble!
Length/grade/stars : 30m aprox, MS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Pete Sanderson
Start location:Approach as for the central face

Pitch descriptions:The route starts 6 feet to the left of The Masterdon climbing a quartz vein through an area of 'rotten' granite to a white hanging slab. The gear is surprisingly good throughout the route although care is required on the crumbly stuff!

Additional info:
This route has probably been climbed before as it is such an obvious line but no record can be found

Submitted by : David Knight
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Devil's Cheesewring (Valley of the Rocks)
Date of ascent : 10/11/2007
Route name : Fingers and Thumbs
Length/grade/stars : 50ft, HS, 0 Stars
Climbers : Tom Paul, David Knight

Start location:
Eliminate to the right of "4000m pursuit". Climb the blank wall with awkward holds.

Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch (approx 50ft), 4b.Probably climbed previously but not as a named route.

Additional info:
Lead after one top-rope ascent.

Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Crowns Mine Cliff – the Landward Cliff
A substantial crag with more potential, approached by a steep descent between the mine buildings (rope in place), as for routes on the seaward cliff. Routes done so far are sheltered, non-tidal, and catch the sun from mid-morning onwards. A prominent feature near the L side of the crag is a chimney/gully line running the full height of the cliff.
Date of ascent : May 21, 2009
Route name : Inroads
Length/grade/stars : 115ft E2 5b *
Climbers : P Littlejohn, D Garner

Start location:
Climbs the face to the L of the chimney/gully. Start below a crack in the lower wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb steeply trending slightly R to a small ledge on the arête of the chimney line. Go straight up the slab above then take the obvious L-trending line to a steep but well-protected exit groove. Belays above the grass slope.

Additional info:
On sight.

Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Crowns Mine Cliff – the Landward Cliff
Date of ascent : May 21, 2009
Route name : The Righteous Path
Length/grade/stars : 121ft E3 5c ***
Climbers : P Littlejohn, D Garner

Start location:
The buttress R of the chimney/gully gives a fabulous pitch. Start from a large rounded boulder beneath some big pockets/holes.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb steeply to a more broken section at 12m where good gear can be fixed before launching up the steep, L-trending weakness, which leads finally to the top of the chimney/gully. Belays above the grass slope.

Additional info:
Some cleaning by abseil

Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Lizard Point – ‘Southernmost Wall’
Date of ascent : May 19, 2009
Route name : The Dirty South
Length/grade/stars : 130ft Mild XS
Climbers : P Littlejohn, D Garner

Start location:
The obvious line towards the L side of the wall is more challenging than it appears. Depending on the tide, make a short or longer traverse along the base of the cliff (V Diff) to belay in a corner.

Pitch descriptions:
1 40ft 5a Bridge up until the groove on the L can be gained. Break out of this and up slabby rock to belay at a bollard.
2 90ft 5b Follow the ‘shisty’ groove up R-wards till steep climbing gains an uncomfortable niche. Swing R along a wide crack then climb directly to the top.

Additional info:

Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Lizard – ‘Soap Gully’
The N side of Soap Gully has an impressive black wall at sea level. At most states of the tide walk to the base, or at HT make a short abseil from the rocky ridge that divides the gully.
Date of ascent : May 19, 2009
Route name : Madam Eglantine
Length/grade/stars : 115ft E2 5b **
Climbers : P Littlejohn, D Garner

Start location:
The line of the wall gives a fine route (given the limitations of Serpentine!). Start beside the huge block at the base of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
From the top of the block follow the obvious vertical overlap till it ends. Traverse 4m L to a vertical crack then climb the L-facing flake/edge on the R, going straight up for 10m then trending R till it eases and blocky ground leads to belays on the slope above.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Rumps Point
The S-facing crag below the highest tower. From mid to low tide it can be approached by descending a ridge on the E side of the cliff (Diff).
Date of ascent : May 18 2008
Route name : Moonrock
Length/grade/stars : 60ft Severe
Climbers : P Littlejohn (solo)

Start location:
The buttress L of Rumplestiltskin. Start 5m L of the pod at the base of that route.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up on to a ledge then trend R up the buttress till bigger holds lead straight up into a bay. Step L on to the nose and reach good finishing holds.

Additional info:
The groove L of Moonrock is also Severe

Submitted by : Pat Littlejohn
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Rumps Point
Date of ascent : May 23 2009
Route name : Stones of the Sun
Length/grade/stars : 90ft E4 5c **
Climbers : P Littlejohn, D Garner

Start location:
The open groove in the steep wall between Rumplestiltskin and Rumpus.

Pitch descriptions:
An excellent pitch but unsuitable for those with a cavalier attitude towards rock and/or protection. Follow the groove to a good wire where the crack ends at 15m. Move R to a large jug (Friend 3) and climb steeply over the bulge into the upper groove (stainless peg - not brilliant but very welcome!). Climb the groove till it is possible to swing L along a shelf to another steep groove leading to the summit of the tower.

Additional info:
Abseil inspected in 2008

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Carn Grey Quarry
Date of ascent : 04/06/2002
Route name : Fag Ash Lil
Length/grade/stars : 10m, MVS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phillip Matthews
Start location:
The quarry is situated just outside of St. Austell on the Carclaze to Trethurgy road. From the A391 heading into St. Austell from Penwithick go over the 1st roundabout. At the 2nd roundabout take the left had turning. Follow this road for about 5 min. the quarry is situated up a very short track on the left, just after the turning for the waste disposal site on the right. There is normally ample parking in the car park.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 4b An eliminate line that has a good boulder prob. Start climbs the blank wall on the right of the crag to a large ledge. Step left and climbs through to the shallow corner at the top. Overhanging heather to finish.

Additional info:
Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass)

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Carn Grey Quarry
Date of ascent : 04/06/2002
Route name : Arm Chair Warrior
Length/grade/stars : 10m, HVS
Climbers : Phillip Matthews, James Hoskin
Start location:
The quarry is situated just outside of St. Austell on the Carclaze to Trethurgy road. From the A391 heading into St. Austell from Penwithick go over the 1st roundabout. At the 2nd roundabout take the left had turning. Follow this road for about 5 min. the quarry is situated up a very short track on the left, just after the turning for the waste disposal site on the right. There is normally ample parking in the car park.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 5a An awkward little climb that takes the arête to the left of the corner. Climb the arête in its entirety some gear available.

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Carn Grey Quarry
Date of ascent : 04/06/2002
Route name : A Round of Applause
Length/grade/stars : 10m, S
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phillip Matthews
Start location:
The quarry is situated just outside of St. Austell on the Carclaze to Trethurgy road. From the A391 heading into St. Austell from Penwithick go over the 1st roundabout. At the 2nd roundabout take the left had turning. Follow this road for about 5 min. the quarry is situated up a very short track on the left, just after the turning for the waste disposal site on the right. There is normally ample parking in the car park.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 4a Climbs the corner and step system

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Carn Grey Quarry
Date of ascent : 04/06/2002
Route name : A Pimps Pleasure
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phillip Matthews
Start location:
The quarry is situated just outside of St. Austell on the Carclaze to Trethurgy road. From the A391 heading into St. Austell from Penwithick go over the 1st roundabout. At the 2nd roundabout take the left had turning. Follow this road for about 5 min. the quarry is situated up a very short track on the left, just after the turning for the waste disposal site on the right. There is normally ample parking in the car park.

Pitch descriptions:
pitch 1 5a Start on the arête just left of the borehole & BBB. Climb the arête until standing on a large foothold, gear in thin horizontal crack. Continue up the arête to finish up steps easily.

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Carn Grey Quarry
Date of ascent : 05/06/2002
Route name : The Happy Little Hooker
Length/grade/stars : 10m, HVS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phillip Matthews
Start location:
The quarry is situated just outside of St. Austell on the Carclaze to Trethurgy road. From the A391 heading into St. Austell from Penwithick go over the 1st roundabout. At the 2nd roundabout take the left had turning. Follow this road for about 5 min. the quarry is situated up a very short track on the left, just after the turning for the waste disposal site on the right. There is normally ample parking in the car park.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 5a A delightful little climb that climbs the wall to the right of the obvious corner (two pegs in situ). Start below & just right of a ledge at about 12” climb onto the ledge then step right and climb the very shallow corner to the top.

Additional info:
Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass).

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Lantic Bay
Date of ascent : 20/07/2005
Route name : Dead Dolphin Arête
Length/grade/stars : 20m, HS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Pete Sanderson
Start location:
Approach as for Pencarrow Head, but after crossing the coast path, follow the path down to the right onto the beach. The climbs are located on a small stack at the far end of the beach. Access is approximately 2 hours either side of low water, but this can be extended for about an extra hour with a bit of wading and easy scrambling.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 The route climbs a small areteslab which protrudes from the rear of a small bay prior to the stack. The arete can be identified as it has a waterfall located behind it. The route has its name from a rather smelly dolphin washed up a few feet away.. the route follows the overhang up and around the slab moving leftwards after the overhang ends. The route ends abruptly as does the rock. Descent was via a see-saw abseil from a 'Mud Mushroom' and Nut key hammered into a crack with large hex!!! (would not trust the in situ gear!)

Additional info:
Descent was via a see-saw absiel from a 'Mud Mushroom' and Nut key hammered into a crack with large hex!!! (would not trust the in situ gear!)

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Luxulyan Quarry
Date of ascent : 1997
Route name : A Muppets Day Out
Length/grade/stars : 20m, HVS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Ian (ELMO) Stocker
Start location:
The quarry is situated in Luxulyan Valley, from Luxlyan head through the valley under the aqueduct for about 2 min. You pass through some tight corners and past a couple of houses. Go under an old metal bridge, directly on the left is a small track, park here (donât block the track off). Follow a small path down next to the railway the quarry is on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 5a The striking corner situated in the centre of the main wall. Climb the corner in its entirety, belay on the pedestal (thread).

Additional info:
No second pitch to date; retreat was via poor thread on belay

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Newquay, Pentire head
Date of ascent : july 2001
Route name : Cornflakes
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HS
Climbers : James Hoskin, Ian (ELMO) Stocker
Start location:
The zawn is located on the north side of Pentire headland. Parking can be found on the road that runs along the northern side of the headland by south fistral. Follow the coastal footpath (sticking right by the cliff top not the large bridle path) for about 5 mins, a narrow zawn will be seen. The only climb takes the corner immediately in front of you. The zawn is tidal and can only be reached by a wade swim. Take care of the swell and tides in this area. The climbing takes is found in a very narrow and rather uninspiring zawn. The rock is for the most part fragile the one route recorded here climbs a corner and slab, which provides relatively secure rock and adequate protection (apart from the top 20’).

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 4b Climb the obvious corner where the slab meets a wall. Climb this in its entirety. At the top step up and right and follow the easiest and most secure line to the top (if there is one!). An ice axe may prove useful at this point. Belay using your imagination!

Additional info:
Belays were from a car driven and parked up the footpath using a 60m abseil rope trailed down to the necessary area!

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Lantic Bay, Dead dolphin arete
Date of ascent : 09/10/2009
Route name : Dead Dolphin Direct
Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS
Climbers : Nigel Kerr & James Hoskin
Start location:
Approach as for Pencarrow Head, but after crossing the coast path, follow the path down to the right onto the beach. The climbs are located on a small stack at the far end of the beach. Access is approximately 2 hours either side of low water, but this can be extended for about an extra hour with a bit of wading and easy scrambling

Pitch descriptions:
Start 10’ right of the corner of dead dolphin arête below a break in the overhang and a large pocket. band of lighter coloured rock. Large loose holds lead onto the slab above, following into the corner as for the previous route.

Additional info:
Descent via see-saw absiel, prayer, mud bolard and a nut key placed on origanal ascent with large Hex!

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Cornwall
Crag : New Polzeath
Date of ascent : 26/04/2010
Route name : 1906
Length/grade/stars : 45 feet, 4b, 1
Climbers : James Hoskin and Phill Matthews
Start location:
There is ample parking in New Polzeath, car parking about 20 feet from the crag (which is ideal for anchors!) or a large public car park only 100feet away besides the public toilets. From the road find the large creammagnolia house on the cliff named 'Medla 1906' this is the obvious detached property with the curved eves. The crag is directly in front of this tucked away in a very narrow incut zawn and can be easily accessed from a rib opposite the crag which also provides a good spot to view the crag. The crag is a slab of about 40-45feet on the left lowering to about 30feet on the right. Thankfully the largest section of slab also contains the best routes and least amount of grass. The zawn is tidal and care should be taken not to get caught out. An easy escape lies on the rib opposite the slab and depending on the height of the sand makes for an easy ascent descent.

Pitch descriptions:
This route climbs the center of the slab via the obvious line of weekness. Some gear can be found in the obvious crack.

Additional info:
One peg was placed 10 feet from the top in a very thin horizontal crack.

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Cornwall
Crag : New Polzeath
Date of ascent : 26/04/2010
Route name : Black Rain
Length/grade/stars : 40-45feet VS 5a, 1 star
Climbers : James Hoskin and Phill Matthews
Start location:
There is ample parking in New Polzeath, car parking about 20 feet from the crag (which is ideal for anchors!) or a large public car park only 100feet away besides the public toilets. From the road find the large creammagnolia house on the cliff named 'Medla 1906' this is the obvious detached property with the curved eves. The crag is directly in front of this tucked away in a very narrow incut zawn and can be easily accessed from a rib opposite the crag which also provides a good spot to view the crag. The crag is a slab of about 40-45feet on the left lowering to about 30feet on the right. Thankfully the largest section of slab also contains the best routes and least amount of grass. The zawn is tidal and care should be taken not to get caught out. An easy escape lies on the rib opposite the slab and depending on the height of the sand makes for an easy ascent descent.

Pitch descriptions:
This route is an eliminate. The route climbs the slab to the right of 1906 taking the blanker section of wall between the crack line and the grass. Two pegs used on first ascent. The first peg at about 20 feet (in situ) and one aproximately 10 feet from the top (missing). Using the crack of 1906 will bring the grade of this route down. Treat all pegs with care!

Additional info:
Two pegs used on first ascent. The first peg at about 20 feet (in situ) and one aproximately 10 feet from the top (missing). Using the crack of 1906 will bring the grade of this route down. Treat all pegs with care!

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Cornwall
Crag : New Polzeath
Date of ascent : 26/04/2010
Route name : Overflow Crack
Length/grade/stars : 30feet, D, XD!
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phill Matthews
Start location:
There is ample parking in New Polzeath, car parking about 20 feet from the crag (which is ideal for anchors!) or a large public car park only 100feet away besides the public toilets. From the road find the large creammagnolia house on the cliff named 'Medla 1906' this is the obvious detached property with the curved eves. The crag is directly in front of this tucked away in a very narrow incut zawn and can be easily accessed from a rib opposite the crag which also provides a good spot to view the crag. The crag is a slab of about 40-45feet on the left lowering to about 30feet on the right. Thankfully the largest section of slab also contains the best routes and least amount of grass. The zawn is tidal and care should be taken not to get caught out. An easy escape lies on the rib opposite the slab and depending on the height of the sand makes for an easy ascent descent.

Pitch descriptions:
Not a hard climb! The route takes the line to the right of Black ice climbing the obvios crack groove. This then climbs the grass aboe finishing at the overflow pipe!

Additional info:
Nut key useful for cutting steps.

Submitted by : James Hoskin
Area : North Cornwall
Crag : New Polzeath
Date of ascent : 26/04/2010
Route name : Green Day
Length/grade/stars : 30feet, VD, XD
Climbers : James Hoskin, Phill Matthews
Start location:
Start location : There is ample parking in New Polzeath, car parking about 20 feet from the crag (which is ideal for anchors!) or a large public car park only 100feet away besides the public toilets. From the road find the large creammagnolia house on the cliff named 'Medla 1906' this is the obvious detached property with the curved eves. The crag is directly in front of this tucked away in a very narrow incut zawn and can be easily accessed from a rib opposite the crag which also provides a good spot to view the crag. The crag is a slab of about 40-45feet on the left lowering to about 30feet on the right. Thankfully the largest section of slab also contains the best routes and least amount of grass. The zawn is tidal and care should be taken not to get caught out. An easy escape lies on the rib opposite the slab and depending on the height of the sand makes for an easy ascent descent.

Pitch descriptions:
This is artificial and eliminate squeezing the most out of a small crag. The route climbs the slab immediately to the right of Overflow crack. The route climbs the slab through the grass following the rock up to its highest point. The route leaves the crack to the right for another route. The crux of the climb comes when the rock runs into grass. on the first ascent a nut key was used to cut steps to aid upward prgression. A large grass cabbage makes for a useful spike runner!!

Submitted by : Lewis Stewart
Area : North Devon and Cornwall
Crag : Vicarage Cliff
Date of ascent : 30/08/2010
Route name : High Living
Length/grade/stars : 22m (75ft), HVS 5a, 2 star
Climbers : Lewis Stewart, Cameron Barclay
Start location:
Approach as normal for Vicarage Cliff, down the steep descent on south end of the beach, start as for "Crazy Paving" at the foot of the groove to the right of "Harpoon".

Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch, 75ft22m, 5a. Approach as normal for Vicarage Cliff, down the steep descent on south end of the beach, start as for "Crazy Paving" at the foot of the grove to the right of "Harpoon", follow the groove until the end, past the undercut section, to about 40ft12m, then break left onto the slab next to "Harpoon" to finish up the small flake line. Finishes approx 10ft3m right of the top of "Harpoon". Requires small gear. Loose rock and breaking holds from near the top of the grove to the top.

Additional info:
No fixed gear used, all placed on the on-sight lead, no known repeats, seconded by Cameron, no falls.

Submitted by : Thor Veen
Area: North Devon and Cornwall, The Atlantic Coast
Crag: Carn Gowla, C Buttress
Date of ascent:12/07/2010
Route name: Twat
Length/grade/star: 35m HVS 4c
Climbers: Thor Veen and Caro Moussy
Start location:
Start between Daydream and Nightride.

Pitch description:
Move diagonally left but keep right of the small buttress. Traverse left and up through and partly underneath a slight overhang of the buttress (crossing Daydream) and keep traversing diagonally left (some loose rock) and straight up for the last 5 meters. Backing up belay using metal stake higher up advisable.

Additional info:
Quite some loose rock. On sight, ground up without inspection.

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : North Devon and Cornwall Exmoor Coast
Crag : Hurlstone Point
Date of ascent : 15/08/2010
Route name : Microlithic Man
Length/grade/stars : D, maybe worth a star
Climbers : John Bull
Start location:
Descend cut rock steps to the west of Coastguard Wall to their end at sea level below and west of Coastguard Slab and Routefinder on the the main cliff. Right (looking down) of the steps, an arched overlap flanks an easy-angled slab just above the HWM. The route starts at the base of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
In the centre of the slab is an overlapping nose at about 10m. Climb directly past this to the top of the slab.

Additional info:
Solo

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : North Devon and Cornwall Exmoor Coast
Crag : Hurlstone Point
Date of ascent : 15/08/2010
Route name : Rude Information Lady
Length/grade/stars : 22m, D, maybe worth a star
Climbers : John Bull
Start location:
Descend cut rock steps to the west of Coastguard Wall to their end at sea level below and west of Coastguard Slab and Routefinder on the the main cliff. Right (looking down) of the steps, an arched overlap flanks an easy-angled slab just above the HWM. The routes start at the base of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Starting at the right hand side of the slab, climb the rib and slab above before trending left to the top. Decent compact rock that deteriorates slightly as height is gained and difficulties ease.

Additional info:
Solo

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : North Devon and Cornwall Exmoor Coast
Crag : Hurlstone Point, Gull Hole Slab
Date of ascent : 15/08/2010
Route name : Strata for Ten
Length/grade/stars : 30m, HVD
Climbers : John Bull
Start location:
Scramble down the west arête of the slab to sea level (Mod).

Pitch descriptions:
1) 6m left of the arête, before a recessed arch, climb a thin crack for 5m, trending left to better holds. Further cracks lead more easily up and left to join Fletcher at the top of the slab.

Additional info:
Solo

Area: North Devon and Cornwall
Crag: Cligga Head - Central Face
Date of Ascent: 21/04/2011
Route Name: Guano Adventures
Length: 40m (give or take a few metres)
Grade: S 4a
Climbers: Nick Stephens, Pete Jones
Start: Keep going down past the start for Queen Jane in the slippery looking gulley until you can make an adventurous traverse through one corner to a slippery ledge about 2m lower, under the base of a black slab you can find around the corner.

Pitch Description: Climb up the right hand side of the black slab in the corner. Where the holds dissappear (or break off in your hand), place the good gear and follow the crumbling looking ledges up to the right. Come out over the edge of the slab to rejoin Queen Jane's slab which can be relatively easily raced up to the good belay at the top.

Comment submitted by: Gerry Martyn
Route Name: 'Jolly Hell' at Cornakey Cliff, North Devon & Cornwall guide.
I did the top pitch of this in May 2002 with Mike Pinney. Rather than risk the extremely shaky and dangerous (to me and belayer) flakes on the top pitch of 'Jolly Roger' I exited up the groove on the right. I remember it well, loose but not as outright dangerous feeling as the flakes. I recorded this in my guide, against 3rd pitch of Jolly Roger; "Very loose, took corner on right, 130ft pitch" (JR is 70 ft). Thought nothing of it at the time; not worth a claim or anything, just an escape.

So now only the middle pitch of Jolly Hell could be new as it shares pitch 1 with Jolly Roger.

Submitted by : David Marsh
Area: North Devon and Cornwall
Crag: Cornakey Cliff
Date of Ascent: 14/11/2011
Route Name: Jolly Hell

Length/grade/stars: 150m, HVS 4b
Climbers: Dave Marsh, Rad Minns
Start Location:
Start as for Wreckers Slab/Jolly Roger

Pitch Description:
1) Rad Minns- 35m, 4b Do the first pitch of Jolly Roger- Starting from the start of Wreckers Slab, climb diagonally left up the slab. Before the groove, move left over the edge of the slab, and traverse across grass and loose rock to the base of the furthest left, bottomless slab. Belay using knife blades and small cams at the base of the slab.
2) Dave Marsh- 50m, 4b. Set off up the middle of the slab, following the line of the grassy crack, moving right onto the right hand side of the slab after about 10m. Continue upwards on sparse protection and suspect rock, using a series of high rock-overs. Staying to the right of the slab using small rising edges to gain height, you will eventually find solid rock on your right, about 50m from the first belay. Pegs (not in-situ) and large cams form a welcome solid belay.
3) Dave Marsh- 45m, no technical grade. A few metres from the belay, enter an incredibly loose groove and using the solid holds of the right side, make upwards progress amongst reasonable gear. On exiting the groove, scramble upwards and slightly right, to gain the left hand edge of the ridge above Wreckers Slab. Belay on large blocks.
Finally scramble along the ridge and back to the cliff top, as you would for the other routes on this wall.

Additional info:
On-sight, clean trad lead. 60m ropes required to reach belays. Helmets are also strongly advised. Pegs are needed (in addition to trad gear) for belays and possibly runners; depending on the rock condition at the time. None are in-situ on the route at the time of writing. With reference to the grade; given the sparse protection and the loose nature of the rock, I felt that HVS was the only possible adjective grade that could couple the 4b technicality of the moves. Hopefully this grade will reflect the fact that the route is relatively technically straightforward, yet still a serious undertaking; as we found out after taking 8 hours to complete it, mainly in the dark!