New Routes - Lundy

Announcement: Click to view - Knight Templar Rocks: Supplement to the 2008 Lundy Guidebook

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

Potential future bird restriction (provided by Alan Evans): This year 2008, in May, there were Ravens nesting on the ledge just below the top on Destiny, they had chicks and we had to report it to the warden and the crag was banned. If you are planning at trip then keep an eye on this in case they make it a regular site, as in the past Landing Craft has been exempt from bans, this will no longer be the case if the Ravens make it a regular home.

Submitted by : Jack Griffiths
Area : Lundy
Crag : Arch Zawn p319
Date of ascent : 07/09/2009
Route name : Codpiece
Length/grade/stars : E1, 5a, 5a, 1star
Climbers : Jack Griffiths, Trystan Jones-Morris
Start location:
The route follows the slabby arete right of "Front Piece" and left of "Today" taken on it's left, seaward, side.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch One: 19m From the ledge below "Front Piece" step down slightly and right to reach the arete. Head up the arete, small wires protect, in a fine position to reach a flake on the left. Step away from the arete just long enough to gain the top of the flake. Resist the temptation to escape left and make a committing move back onto the arete and up to the ledge and belay. Pitch Two: As for pitch two of "Stop Press".

Additional info:
No fixed gear used. Style of ascent was On-sight. No known repeats as yet.

Submitted by : Robin Nicholson
Area : Lundy
Crag : Inland Buttress East of Seal Slab Area
Date of ascent : 27/09/2009
Route name : Debbie Jane Fay
Length/grade/stars : 20 metres, Hard Severe, 4a, 1 star
Climbers : Robin Nicholson, Joe Killick
Start location:
Buttress Location: Refer to map diagram in new guide (2008) on page 293 or click to view a pdf. This slab buttress is the second buttress due east inland of the Easter Island shaped blocks by the Ocean PromontorySeal Slab area. On the map in the guide this is shown as one large continuous buttress but it is actually two.

Pitch descriptions:
“Debbie Jane Fay” 20m Hard Severe 4a. 1 Pitch. Route Description: A surprisingly pleasant gritstone-esque excursion up the centre of the slab. Start at the centre of the slab at a hollow sounding flake. Follow the shallow groove up and right to reach the obvious rightward-slanting flake and good holds. Continue direct to a rounded finish. Belay at the ‘bollard’ on top of the buttress.

Additional info:
Free Ascent. No repeat.

Submitted by : David Barlow - Comments on the Guidebook
Area : Lundy

Beef Buttress: I think the suggested spare rope to get to the 40m abseil at the top of the crag is unnecessary since it is a straightforward scramble. "Steve Bull" E2 5c no longer has a peg on it; there is good gear at that point on the route anyway. "Spare Rib" E1 5b appears to seep badly and the start has lots of green gunge on it so a prolonged dry spell would appear to be necessary to make it a pleasant experience.

Punchbowl Cliff: "Return of the Teletubbies" E2 5a,5b felt more like E1 5a, 5a to us.

Devil's Chimney Cliff: "Overbored" HVS 5a does not have a peg on it and I reckon is closer to E2 5b. While we didn't climb "Black Looks" and "Shy Tot" the easiest way to access them looked like abseiling down the Shy Tot corner.

Submitted by : Tudor Griffiths - Correction to First Ascent Climbers
Area : Lundy
Crag : Arch Zawn
Date of ascent :
Route name : Late City Extra
Length/grade/stars :
Climbers : SJ Brown and T Griffiths (not ND Griffiths)

Submitted by : Mandy Glanvill
Area : Lundy
Crag : Flying Buttress Area - Battery
Date of ascent : 08/08/2011
Route name : Spotty Dog
Length/grade/stars : 26m S posible 1 star
Climbers : Mandy Glanvill, Julie Carter, Anne Freund

Start location:
Ab down to base of Battery Rib, first arête to the right

Pitch descriptions:
Well protected arête climb. Up the arête from base into scoop 3m, then on right side of arête up crack 5m, then as arête bluntend climb more easily up slab and groove to right fairly directly to finish as BatteryRrib.

Additional info:
Led from ground up placing trad gear

Submitted by : Andy Owen
Area : Lundy
Crag : Previously unclimbed buttress. Suggest name of Lady Denise's Buttress
Date of ascent : 31/08/2011
Route name : Seal Erotica
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres HVS 5a
Climbers : James Nichols, Ian Timbrell
Start location:
Previously unclimbed buttress north of Black Bottom Buttress and above Threequarter Wall Buttress. The north face is situated above St James's Stone and well seen in photo page 265 and also on centre fold of photo pages 266 and 267 of current (2008) guidebook. It is easily reached down a gentle grass slope from plateau level. The route is on the north face.

Pitch descriptions:
Start from a large flat boulder at the left side of the crag. Gain the rightward slanting fist crack above and climb strenuously to underneath the roof on the left hand side. Gain horizontal breaks through the clean patch of rock to the top. Rope belay around summit crown.

Additional info:
Climbed onsight and ground up.

Submitted by : Andy Owen
Area : Lundy
Crag : Previously unclimbed buttress. Suggest name of Lady Denise's Buttress
Date of ascent :
Route name : One Hundred and Ten Years
Length/grade/stars : VS 4c. 30 metres
Climbers : Andy Owen, Mick Cooke
Start location:
Approach as for Seal Erotica to North Face of crag. Start at a pile of boulders just left of the lowest point of the crag at the foot of the obvious right left rising ramp line.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp all the way to the overhang, which is passed on the left, to the top Belay as for Seal Erotica.

Additional info:
Climbed onsight and in ungardened state. Repeated 31/08/2011 by James Nichols and Ian Timbrell. Grade confirmed

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Gannet front buttress
Date of ascent : 07/09/2011
Route name : Grumpy Old Gannets
Length/grade/stars : 85m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt
Start location:
start as for "Gannet Front"

Pitch descriptions:
1) 15m 4c . climb diagonally left to a short groove which leads to a traverse line, go down and left to a cormorants toilet and cross this without breathing to a comfortable belay niche below and left.
2)32m 5a climb the left hand crack in the wall above and continue up the rib passing to the right of a black area of rock to a large terrace. Belay
3)15m walk left around the front of the buttress to a belay at the top of the terrace directly below an obvious layback crack above the right hand side of a black overhang.
4)25m 5b enter the layback crack from the right and continue up the short vegetated wall above to a large grassy ledge, the jam crack above provides an energetic finale.

Additional info:
On sight

Submitted by : Graham Everitt
Area : Lundy
Crag : Slipper Rock
Date of ascent : 09/09/2011
Route name : Puff the Magic Dragon
Length/grade/stars : 20m hs 4c 3 stars
Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruth Everitt, Justin Ford
Start location:
"Slipper Rock" is the outcrop overlooking gannet rock bay from the south end, identifiable by a miraculous spectacular jutting prow that resembles a dragons head. Start at the rib at the base of the landward side of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
1) 20m 4c up the rib to a flake crack. move left across the slab and make an exposed and commiting move left onto the very snout of the beast. Finish up the slabby crest to a perched block belay.

Additional info:
On sight