New Routes - Lower Wye Valley

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

WARNING Shorn Cliff: Pump it Up Again appears to have fallen down - Thanks to JohnEales

Plump Hill Quarry - will be in the next Symonds Yat guide - click here for New Routes

Warning submitted by Colin Knowles
Lower Wye Valley Guide book
Crag - Wyndcliffe
Right Wing

There are three yew trees referred to in the route description for Suncrush
(HVS). This tree no longer exists as a very large rock has fallen from
above Cadillac and smashed it off completely. Cadillac is unaffected,
though Elan (E2/3) may be.

Submitted by : Ian Atkins
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Black Cliff Quarry, Castle Bay
Date of ascent : 10/05/1998
Route Name : Twenty Years After
Length/grade/stars : As per Guidebook
Climbers : Ian Atkins, Paul Greenhow. (Missing in Guidebook - info sent to Martyn Cattermole).
Start location:
As per Guidebook.

Pitch descriptions:
As per Guidebook, except finish with;
Step right to belay on the twin bolt belay of "NETWORKING".

Additional info:
Led on sight.

Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 26th April 2008
Route Name : Caveat Emptor
Length/grade/stars : 24 metres, F6a
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Cathal Connern, Yvonne Jones
Start location:
A surprisingly easy pitch, in experienced hands, up the (once heavily ivy covered) wall immediately to the right of 'Ring Tone'. Some brittle rock, in the white central section, in keeping with the general nature of the quarry. Seven bolt runners.

Pitch descriptions:
The initial wall is not immediately straightforward but quickly leads to a commodious ledge. Continue directly up the short, white depression to a handy edge and swing out right on to a narrow foot-ledge. Step up to the base of the hollow projecting flake and purposefully avoid any close contact with it by stepping out right. Pull up good edges above and using a layaway in the roof above step back right to ample holds. Finish easily up steeper ground to a double bolt abseil station.

Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Ban-y-Gor Rocks - The Right-Hand Escarpement
Date of ascent : 30th September 2007
Route Name : Amuse Bouche
Length/grade/stars : 6 metres, F4+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones, Gary Gibson (all led)
Start location:
To the left of 'That Historic Reach'

Pitch descriptions:
The prominent short and dusty scoop to the left of 'That Historic Reach'. Three bolt runners. Double bolt abseil station.

Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 03/05/ 2008
Route Name : Dog of the Month
Length/grade/stars : 23 metres, F6a+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones
Start location:
The slight groove of sorts, some 8 metres upslope of 'Ring Tone' has a somewhat 'Tinternesque' feel about it. Solid enough while keeping to the line of the seven bolt runners. Start just to the right of 'Caveat Emptor'.

Pitch descriptions:
Surmount an awkward first bulge to easier ground in the white depression. Now follow a series of thin layaways while bridging up the steeper wall above before swinging left to a comfy resting ledge. Step back right to an agreeable steep finish. Double bolt abseil station.

Submitted by : Simon Tappin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Shorn Cliff, Fallacy buttress
Date of ascent : 11/05/08
Route Name : The English Opium Eaters
Length/grade/stars : E6 6b for an on sight ascent. 2 stars
Climbers : Simon Tappin

Start location:
As per guidebook

Pitch descriptions:
as for original route but lead without the bolts which have been removed.

Additional info:
DMM locknut 6 in pocket at 12m then dubious RP in flake below crux. Abseil inspection before lead

Submitted by : Alex Harper
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Shorn Cliff South Fallacy Buttress
Date of ascent : 11/05/08
Route Name : The Return of Forever
Length/grade/stars : 22m E2/E3 5b
Climbers : Alex Harper, seconded Phil Beddow
Start location:
Approach as stated in guide book, descent abseil from station on Fallacy, start up centre of slab, a one and half meter left of crack on Fallacy

Pitch descriptions:
22m E2/E3 5b start up the centre of the slab, one and half meters left of Fallacy and 2 meters right of the over grown corner. Climb the slab with not to much difficulty to an over hang above, then step left in to crack on Fallacy then continue up for 3 meters, making the most of good gear. At this point you will see a small concretion on the slab right near the arête, with this in hand move boldly up slab following the line of the arête. Then continue up the slab to top, past a thread first piece of good gear after crack. At top move right with care and take belay of Fallacy.

Additional info:
No fix gear, abseil inspection and quick clean then lead ground up on sight. No known repeats.

Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 24/05/2008
Route Name : Lean Dark Hombre
Length/grade/stars : 12 metres F6c+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Ed Heslam, Tom Heslam (all led)

Pitch descriptions:
An eliminate that keeps to the vague arête twixt The Fire Escape and Two Mules for Sister Sara. A bit of a desperate start gives way to much easier climbing on some hollow rock. Six bolt runners. Double bolt abseil station.

Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry
Date of ascent : 24/05/2008
Route Name : Slimming in the Rain
Length/grade/stars : 20 metres F4+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Tom Heslam, Ed Heslam (all led)

Pitch descriptions:
A long easy pitch suitable for those with a less than perfect physique. Starts up the shallow chimney immediately left of Rippled and Toned and take a direct line to a double bolt abseil station. Six bolt runners.
FA:

Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Ban y Gor - The Right-Hand Escarpement
Date of ascent : 23rd October 2009
Route name : Double the Fun
Length/grade/stars : F4+ 20m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones
Start location:
Extreme left end of the crag.

Pitch descriptions:
Immediately left of 'Amuse Bouche' is a narrow, awkward gully. Ascend the gully to the terrace then climb the centre of the headwall above. Crux at the top. Double bolt abseil station. A bit of a novelty outing.

Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Ban y Gor - The Left-Hand Escarpement
Date of ascent : 21st July 2009
Route name : The Chepstow Triangle
Length/grade/stars : F6b 17m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Cathal Connern
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
A tricky eliminate but absorbing nonetheless. Step right into the shallow starting groove of 'Always the Rain' then swing out right onto hollow holds and surmount the tricky overlay to a recuperative lie down ledge. Ascend the awkward arête above and step left at the top to a double bolt abseil station.

Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Ban y Gor - The Left-Hand Escarpment
Date of ascent : 18th October 2009
Route name : Autumnal Dark
Length/grade/stars : F6b 10m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Cathal Connern, Yvonne Jones
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
An oddball pitch that starts up a slabby wall then climbs a cheval up the short overhanging arête immediately right of 'There’s a Lot of It About'. Finish on the very apex of the arête (crux) and reach left to a double bolt abseil station.

Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Ban y Gor - Ladder Gully
Date of ascent : 16th October 2009
Route name : Such a Big Cactus!
Length/grade/stars : F4 8m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones
Start location:

Pitch descriptions:
The amenable shallow corner left of 'The Fat Controller'. Three bolt runners. Double bolt abseil station.

Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Woodcroft Quarry - The Sunny Wall
Date of ascent : 25th May 2009
Route name : Delicious
Length/grade/stars : 35m F6aMXS
Climbers : Gordon Jenkin, Tony Penning (both led), Yvonne Jones, Ali Taylor
Start location:
An adult taste. This takes an unhealthy line up the central part of the repellent, blocky grey wall. Its appearance is not deceptive (some long quick-draws useful). Start from the middle of the broad platform.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 10m F4. Climb a short bare wall to a ledge and traverse this rightwards carefully until it is possible to step up onto an ample belay ledge and 2BB.
2. 25m F6a MXS. Follow the line of bolt runners as closely as possible and try to avoid touching too much of the surroundings. Climb directly above the belay, very gently, then, after the third bolt, swing left to better holds. Continue straight up to a ledge exercising greater caution than mass and take a welcome rest. The worst is now over; after a few more moves better rock presents itself and the finish is a pleasure.

Submitted by : Ian Atkins
Area : Lower Wye Valley
Crag : Shorn Cliff, Tiger Bay.
Date of ascent : 15/09/2009
Route name : Jenny's Route
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres, Severe
Climbers : Paul Greenhow (leader), Ian Atkins (second).
Start location:
Scramble rightwards 4 metres from "Cry Wolf" to the flakechimney.

Pitch descriptions:
15 metres. 4A. Climb the wallchimney to the ledge.Then take the leftward rising undercut flake crack until a direct finish can be made to the small tree on the lip. (Continuing to the upper crack of Cry Wolf reduces the grade to V. Diff.). Belay as for Cry Wolf.

Additional info:
No fixed gear. Ground up ascent after cleaning on abseil. No gear or hold testing during cleaning. Only Ivy, loose rock, leaves, dirt etc. removed.

Submitted by : Ian Atkins
Area : Lower Wye Valley.
Crag : Shorn Cliff, Tiger Bay.
Date of ascent : 15/09/209
Route name : Dazed and Confused
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres, Hard Severe
Climbers : Ian Atkins (leader), Paul Greenhow (second)
Start location:
Scramble rightwards 5 metres from "Cry Wolf" to below a crack and groove.

Pitch descriptions:
15 metres. 4B. Climb directly to the ledge, and continue up the crack and then groove until below the capping earth cornice. Avoid this like the plague by arborially gaining the left arete, and hence the top of the clif. Belay as for Cry Wolf.

Additional info:
No fixed gear. On sight ascent after cleaning on abseil. No gear or hold testing on abseil. Only Ivy, loose rock, leaves, dirt etc. removed. Named because the leader knocked off woodrocks onto belayer.

Submitted by : Cailean Harker
Area : Lower wye valley
Crag : Wintours leap. GO wall
Date of ascent : 23/04/2010
Route name : I'm Evil (Primeval direct)
Length/grade/stars : 18m, E6 6C, 2 stars
Climbers : Cailean Harker
Start location:
Approach: Climb King Kong pitch one. Decent: Abseil

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the centre of the wall right of King Kong pitch two, without using the no hands rest on Big Dong.

Additional info:
The three pegs of Primeval were used. Climbed after toprope practice. No repeats so far.