Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Alan Moore
Area : Sandstone outcrops of forest of dean
Crag : East dean edge, cave area
Date of ascent : 26/07/06
Route Name : Nae Heather
Length/grade/stars : VS 4b, 6m
Climbers : Alan Moore
Start location: Start at the entrance to the triangular cave.
Pitch descriptions: Step left and climb the slab (rightof the aret of cave arete)
Additional info: On-sight solo. |
Submitted by : Matt Hammersley
Area : Forest of Dean
Crag : The White Tower, Little Doward, Wye Valley
Date of ascent : 16th may, 1994
Route Name : Ghost of a Texas Ladies Man
Length/grade/stars : 40 foot E3 5c
Climbers : Matt Hammersley, Ivor Mason
Start location:
From King Arthurs Cave on the doward follow the path
by the corner of the fence up the hill till you
cross a walkers stile and approach the cutting
between the white tower and the main crag. Descend
off the path to the left once through the cutting,
the route can be found below a small over hang with
a rose bush at its foot at the base of the centre of
the tower.
Pitch descriptions:
40 foot approx E3 5c.
Start to the right of the old rose bush at the
centre of the tower and climb the small overhang on
small holds (appears a little loose but ok), once
over the 'bulge' climb a short ramp with a crack on
the left hand side, at the top of the ramp gain the
wall above by a small triangular hold, follow a
series of small 3 finger diagonal pockets until a
bold move can be made to a good jug and a small
loose block, a few easier moves to the top, belay
off the stone 'table'.
Additional info:
I sent this information into John Gibson a good few
years ago and didn't get any reply so not sure if it
has been previously recorded, also informed Wayne
Gladwin of ascent as he was doing some routes
elsewhere on the crag at the time and was creating a
topo to the crag.
Repeat (2nd) ascent by Phil Moffet a few weeks later
on lead and top rope a month later by Martin
Adamson. Name came from the concrete blonde song
Matt and Ivor were listening to on the way to the
crag on Matt's birthday. |
Submitted by : Alexander Harper
Area : Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean
Crag : Huntsham Crags , Chockstone Buttress
Date of ascent : 03/05/08
Route Name : Tisyinate Scope
Length/grade/stars : 10/11m, E4/E5 6c, *
Climbers : Alexander Harper
Start location:
The route is near the middle of chockstone buttress.
The line starts left of 'Valley Solicitor' and right
of 'Strongbow'. Crossing the large triangular roof
direct. From a big under cut in the left hand corner
,descent is same as 'Strongbow'.
Pitch descriptions:
10/11m, E4/E5 6c, The route starts 2/3 m left of
'Valley Solicitor' on a large under cut at the base
of the large triangular roof. Make hard, power full
moves out, over the centre of the roof, to a round
slot in the roof, then hard moves to the lip of the
roof. Then hand traverse left along the lip to a jug
just blow the second nose of the four nose prow.
Then make a hard pull on to the right hand side of
the second nose of the prow (first peace of gear).
Then climb the right hand side of prow to just below
the final nose on easier ground. Then finish up over
last nose (fine steep moves) with good gear in the
fluting on Strongbow.
Additional info:
No fixed gear, ground up ascent, no known repeats. |
Submitted by : Gareth Cook
Area : Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean
Crag : Huntsham Crags, Bivi Buttress
Date of ascent : 18/05/2011
Route name : Friend In Kneed
Length/grade/stars : 9m, E4 5c, 0 stars
Climbers : Gareth Cook
Start location:
"Between Rough Sleepers Initiative" and "Isaac's Blessing"
Pitch descriptions:
Squeezed in and escapable. Draw an imaginary line between the crack at the bottom and the flake at the top. Climb the initial crack, then ledges, pockets and crimps staying slightly left of the imaginary line. Still quite dusty.
Additional info:
Brushed on abseil, no holds marked up, then flashed |
Submitted by : Gareth Cook
Area : Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean
Crag : Huntsham Crags, Bivi Buttress
Date of ascent : 25/05/2011
Route name : Kneeded Friends
Length/grade/stars : 8m, E5 6b, 1 star
Climbers : Gareth Cook, Elliott Boyd
Start location:
Between "Mat Trespass" and "Through Air"
Pitch descriptions:
Quite eliminate, put your blinkers on...climbs the face between the arêtes. Campus finger edges, then rock up left to a dish and again to a finger ledge below a slight boss. Commit to pebbles and stretch to a crimp. Make a committing move off 2 pockets to grasp the finishing jug
Additional info:
Top roped then soloed above mats |
including Area, Crag and Route Name.