Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Kevin Bridges
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 27/01/2007
Route Name : Gumbo Variations
Length/grade/stars : 12m, E3 5b
Climbers : Kevin Bridges
Start location:
Face 10m right of Gymslip
Pitch descriptions:
The blank wall to the right of pitch 1a - the
variation start to Tin Drum. Climb the wall
direct. No protection.
Additional info:
Solo
Comment submitted by : James Parrott
Gumbo Variations is
probably Operational Reasons.
I first climbed Operational
Reasons in 2006:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=43625
I've been investigating what I can but I don't
think it was regularly done before as it used to start above a vegetated ledge
(this has now died off and has become the cleanest rock since I've been climbing
it) and many people falsely assume it is blank.
I don't
know what this `face 10m of Gymslip is', (the Start
of Fast Grip
is 10m right of the corner according to the guide)
unless it's somewhere
else entirely, the face right of the variation pitch
3a to Tin Drum,
maybe.
Kevin's other submission (Starless and Bible Black)
does look good though,
I'm well up for repeating that.
Thanks, James. |
Submitted by : Alex Barrows
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, Eagle Rock
Date of ascent : 16/03/2007
Route Name : The Holly and the Eddie
Length/grade/stars : 18m, E2 5c, 0 stars
Climbers : A Barrows, M Tomlinson
Start location:
Start between Gift Tolkien and The Gnome King.
Pitch descriptions:
Just as pointless and eliminate as it looks - the
section of rock between Gift Tolkien and The Gnome
King avoiding using the cracks either side for holds
or gear. Easy climbing leads to the short, vertical
sheet of rock (RP 1, RP 4 just below) where a couple
of slightly tricky and very reachy moves will
deposit you on the small ledge above. More easy
climbing leads to tree belays. Very escapable,
harder for the short.Additional info:
Lead after brief toproping. Quite possibly
(probably?) done before but not considered worthy of
reporting or inclusion in the guidebook. It was
quite fun anyway though! |
Submitted by : Josh Rose
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Shatter
Cave Area
Date of ascent : 06/05/2007
Route Name : Where's Blagdon?
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS
Climbers : Josh Rose, Tom Dixon
Start location:
Climb either Back Off or Backing Up to the belay
tree at the top of these routes.
Pitch descriptions:
20m, 4b. From the belay tree at the top of Back
Off/Backing Up, carry on up to the left, clambering
carefully over a rubble strewn ledge after about 3m.
Climb the centre of the slab above. Small wire
runners in the first half, run out at the top.
Additional info:
Clean Onsight, Unrepeated |
Submitted by : Josh Rose
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Withyhill Cave Area
Date of ascent : 21/03/2007
Route Name : Standing on the Shoulders of Morons
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VD
Climbers : Josh Rose, Megan Sommerville
Start location:
Climb Standing on the Shoulders of Moles (if you're
brave enough!) to the belay trees on the rubble
strewn ledge.
Pitch descriptions:
20m Extremely run out with only one piece of
protection in the whole pitch. From the belay trees
at the top of Standing on the Shoulders of Moles,
move up leftwards towards some stacked blocks and a
small tree. 10m above the ledge you'll find your
protection, in a vertical crack, make sure you have
a size 0.5 cam for it. Extend well, and move back
down the small ledge you're standing on to a small
hanging block, go over this and up rightwards
towards, and then along a gently sloping grassy ramp
which leads to the top. Belay from trees at the top.
Additional info:
Clean Onsight, Unrepeated. Most of Standing on the
Shoulders of Moles and part of the rubble strewn
ledge fell down as Megan led it, had Josh not dived
out of the way when the ledge collapsed, the route
would have been marred by a trip to the local A & E! |
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress, Avon Gorge
Date of ascent : 12/08/2007
Route Name : The Outlook is Rosy
Length/grade/stars : 18m, HVD, *
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Steve Marriott
Start location:
Start at the toe of the buttress, just to the left
of a complex buddleia bush.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb readily to the base of a groove that splits
the arête and then delicately up the groove and the
arête beyond to the base of a red wall (escape
possible here). Move slightly left before climbing
the cracked
arête readily to the top.
The best belay is the keep fence, which well back
from the top of the route. The best descent is to
follow the keep fence and its trend line to the back
of the bay, where a descent is made readily back to
the SSB.
Additional info:
This route is a welcome addition to this grade of
climbing in the Gorge, and with use will soon become
a popular outing. It takes the obvious clean-looking
slabby right arête of SSB just before the fence,
well to the right of Wormlands. As the route is
poorly protected in the lower and middle sections it
requires steadiness from the leader, though the rock
is splendidly rough and sound in those sections. |
Submitted by : Mark Davies
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry - Conning tower area
Date of ascent : 07/10/2007
Route Name : Thick Black Lips
Length/grade/stars : 25m. HVS 5b. one star.
Climbers : Mark Stephen Davies, Sarah Coombes
Start location:
The obvious hanging slab left of The Conning Tower.Start a little way up the muddy gully on the
left at a block below a small cave entrance.
Pitch descriptions:
Interesting, solid, well protected climbing. Climb cracks up to the overlap and gain the slab by
a tricky leftward move. Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards along the bottom of the slab
to gain the obvious R-L rising diagonal crack. Climb this for a few awkward moves until a tasty
rockover, utilising an obvious side pull gains a standing position in the crack. Climb the rest
of the slab on good edges and finish up the slightly loose arête.
Additional info:
Prior clean on abseil
Led clean
Second ascent and grade confirmed by Brian Mullen and Clare Lindley 07/10/2007 |
Submitted by : Richard Hall
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Pete\'s
Wall
Date of ascent : 02/11/2007
Route Name : The Radco Checkout Girl
Length/grade/stars : 35m, VS 4c
Climbers : Richard Hall, Mike Kann
Start location:
Pete's Wall is the obvious brown wall opposite
Rob's Slab.
Pitch descriptions:
Start below the overhang just right of the centre
of the wall. Climb straight up on loose rock and
then though the overhang via the niche at it's
right hand end. Continue up to a tree before making
a rising traverse leftwards crossing the horizontal
breaks. Swing round the large flake and finish up on
loose ground.
Additional info:
On-sight. No known repeats. |
Submitted by : Kevin Bridges
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 02/02/2008
Route Name : Starless And Bible Black
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E5 6b *
Climbers : Kevin Bridges
Start location:
Climbs the wall between The Beat and Small Or
Nothing
Pitch descriptions:
Sufficiently independent to give the most serious
climb on this section of rock where failure is not
an option.
Follow Small Or Nothing to the sapling. Pull up
onto the black wall and hand traverse the ramp left
and up into the centre of the wall. Using a tiny
finger flake on the left, balance up and pass a down
pointing flake before making a committing stretch
for the good ledge and Slurp ramp above.
A finish up Lost Atoms maintains the momentum.
Additional info:
Solo |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Portishead Quarry - The Sanctuary
Date of ascent : 7th January 2007
Route Name : Heavy Cloud; Lots of Rain
Length/grade/stars : 8 metres, F6a+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Martin Crocker (both
led)
Start location:
The route lies on the small isolated buttress
directly opposite the main crag (i.e. on the extreme
right as you enter the quarry).
Pitch descriptions:
A fun little number that proves steeper than it
looks (and with Sting in its tale). Three bolt
runners to double ring abseil station. |
Submitted by : James Moyle
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Westdown Quarry
Date of ascent : 03/05/2008
Route Name : Travellers' Rest
Length/grade/stars : 8m, VS 5b, 0 stars
Climbers : James Moyle
Start location:
As the guidebook
Pitch descriptions:
A bit of a one move wonder with good pro. Starts 3m
right of Sourcery. Take the middle of the overhang
via the crack that runs through it. Then Bimble to
the top through the Budleia.
Additional info:
Clean Onsight - unseconded |
Comment Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Unknown Wall Area
Date of ascent : 03/05/2008
Route Name : Aasvogel
Not a new
route but the guide book is not correct.
The earthy crack has been highly cleaned and the
route is in very good shape. It is a very interesting route to climb
and is mostly well protected. The only vegetation problem is climbing past
two fierce hawthorns, which could easily be pruned with secateurs. Matt
Goater and I were of the strong opinion that it should be given a
star. |
Submitted by : Colin Knowles - Claim of previous accent detailed below accepted by Colin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Mells, Left Shed
Date of ascent : 08/07/2008
Route Name : Pell Mell
Length/grade/stars : 18m, VS 5a, 1 star
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Jerzy Weiczorek, Evan Hall
Start location:
This is the first crag after Face of Mells when approached from the road.
In the 2004 guide no routes are described on this face.
Pitch descriptions:
This route climbs the deep excellent right-ward trending crack that
splits the face. The well-protected crux is at the bulge just below the
tree. A variety of climbing techniques will be found useful.
Comment Submitted by : Ben Palmer
This route is actually:
http://mendipclimb.org.uk/parser/parser.php?file=/others.htm
Sting in the Tail HVS 5a - Take the fine rising crack line that runs the entire height of the crag, passing a dead tree where the angle eases. The small tricky ramp above leads to a finishing mantleshelf onto a slightly sloping large ledge. Big cams protect, belay on trees and scramble off to the rear.
29/05/2006 - James Jackson, Ben Palmer (onsight after abseil cleaning)
Climbed by myself and a friend 2 years before the subsequent ascent. |
Submitted by : Alex Collins
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Upper Amphitheatre Walls
Date of ascent : 07/09/08
Route name : Mynewt
Length/grade/stars : 25m E5 6a
Climbers : Alex Collins
Start location:
Approach is made via an abseil from the railings
above Giants Cave Buttress, or alternatively climb
the first two pitches of Giants Cave Buttress and
use the third belay to begin the route. The best
means of descent is to walk beyond the Suspension
Bridge to meet and follow the zigzags down to the
Portway.
Pitch descriptions:
25m E5 6a Effectively a more direct and
uninterrupted version of Daz. Muscle up pockets to
the right of the right of the arête (in situ thread)
to reach a handrail leading rightwards into a corner
(in situ thread). From the ledge above make a long
reach to pass a bulge. Move rightwards along the
crystalline break to pockets and better holds
(questionable peg). Take the thin crack above past a
peg to good holds at the top. |
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date of ascent : 16/05/2009
Route name : Limbic Dystrophy
Length/grade/stars : HVS (4c, 4c)
Climbers : David Radley, Colin Knowles
Start location:
An adventurous outing up a less travelled part of the buttress. Rock quality improves after the first 10m. Starts 5m right of the large earthy rightwards diagonal break taken by Wormlands.
Pitch descriptions:
1. (4c) Climb the wall on poor rock for 10m. Cross easy slabs to reach a
groove system on the left. (Rock improves from here). Climb grooves until a
ledge appears on the right (good runners). From here continue up the groove
system to reach the leftwards diagonal faultline above. Step right under a
small nose and climb an awkward short shallow corner to reach a good belay.
1a.Variation: (E1 5b) From the good runners at the ledge, traverse left
across the steep wall on positive pockets and boldly make tricky moves
upwards where they finish to reach the break. Good rock.
2. (4c) Trend initially right then straight up to the base of a prominent
left-facing shallow corner (belay possible 3m left). Climb the corner, or
its arete, trending right near the top to the headwall, which is climbed
to the right of two metal plates to the exit of choice.
Additional Information:
For route diagram see
http://www.efm.bris.ac.uk/eccrk/climbing/Limbicdystrophy.jpg |
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date of ascent : 08/06/2009
Route name : Suprising Conclusion
Length/grade/stars : S * 4a 30m
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Greg Jaxa-Aksentowicz
Start location:
An airy route, initially straightforward, but increasingly challenging as
it gains height. A good route at this grade, which is poorly represented in
the Avon Gorge, and ideal for a Severe leader looking to improve their
all-round skills. The rock is good, and the lower section of the route well
protected.
Start by abseiling from the tree at the top of Limbic Dystrophy to the
capacious well-protected mid-way belay ledge of that route.
Pitch descriptions:
1. (4a) From the belay ledge easily up the rightward-trending open groove to ledges, then follow the continuation groove with more interest and exposure until forced left onto narrow ledges. After arranging protection
ascend the increasingly exposed and delicate right-trending continuation groove to the top. Belay at the tree.
Additional Information:
For a route diagram see
http://www.efm.bris.ac.uk/eccrk/climbing/SuprisingConclusion.jpg |
Submitted by : Remus Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Croscombe Valley Cliffs, Main Cliff
Date of ascent : 28/08/2009
Route name : Dirty Hands
Length/grade/stars : VS 4c, 8m
Climbers : Remus Knowles
Start location:
10m left of 'Directors Chair'
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pocketed wall and vague rib to a dirty top out (or lower of a pre-placed rope, more pleasant).
Additional info:
Cleaned then soloed, possibly a repeat of 'Strawberry Line.' |
Submitted by : Remus Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Croscombe Valley Cliffs, Main Cliff
Date of ascent : 28/08/2009
Route name : Special K
Length/grade/stars : HVS 5a, 8m
Climbers : Remus Knowles
Start location:
The obvious overhang between 'Directors Chair' and 'The secret Existence of a Mendip Official.'
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall beneath the overhang then surmount it on the left. Top out via a dirty scramble or lower from a pre-placed rope.
Additional info:
Cleaned then soloed. |
Submitted by : Henry Castle
Area : Avon gorge
Crag : The higher of the "two shaly, decomposing red-coloured walls" at the extreme left of Main Wall.
Date of ascent : 9/5/2009
Route name : Break Left
Length/grade/stars : 60m E2 5c, 5c
Climbers : Henry Castle: Guy Jarvis
Start location:
Walk to the furthest left section of Main Wall, where a wedge shaped buttress is found.
Pitch descriptions:
This traverse route has been dug out, into existence (after a total of six days cleaning.) Participants will find a surprising amount of variety with good moves. Needless to say some of the rock should be handled with care. 1. 5C, 25m. Start as for Suicide Machine. Bold wall climbing up the white and orange stained wall leads to the break underneath the small overhang at five meters. Pull over into a vertical crack to the break. Hand traverse the break left to sloping ledges, continue left along balancy ledges to the continuation break. Hand traverse this to a ledge. Belay.
2. 5C, 35m. Creep left along the ledge to a peg in the small roof. Drop down to make a committing move around the jutting nose of rock to another sloping ledge on the left. Move back right to stand on top of the "nose" to make a stretch up for a peg. Climb the thin slab directly to a horizontal break. Hand traverse this (cams) to a hard exit from a low corner, onto a sloping shelf (peg high up to protect second). Move left to another larger corner and pull round left onto the white wall (two pegs). Climb the wall to a sloping hand traverse left to a borehole thread. Top out above on easy but loose rock and veg'. Tree belays well back.
Additional info:
All climbed free on first ascent. Previous repeats with; Steve Winthrope, David Talbot (MIA), Trevor Messiah (MIA) and two other mates I sandbagged into seconding it. It's cleaning up quite well!
|
Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge - The Tsunami
Date of ascent : 3rd October 2009
Route name : Who is the Enigmatic Mystery Climber?
Length/grade/stars : F6a+ 15m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yousef Haddu
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
Suprising pitch that climbs the overhanging vee-groove at extreme left-hand end of The Tsunami, keeping close to the line of the seven bolts. |
Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge - The Tsunami
Date of ascent : 10th October 2009
Route name : Three Dark Nights
Length/grade/stars : F6c+ 16m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yousef Haddu
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
Start immediately left of ‘Joyride’. An initial fingery wall on soft edges is followed by some fun pulling on real holds through the bulge above. Finish easily up a short crack and wall above to the abseil station of ‘..Mystery Climber’ on the left. Seven bolts. |
Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge - Stepped Wall
Date of ascent : 26th September 2009
Route name : No Saanich in Salsa
Length/grade/stars : F6a+ 13m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Brian Wyvill (both led)
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
A soon to be popular warm-up? Climb directly up the ledges and the centre of the smooth compact headwall just left of the classic ‘Stepped Wall’. Hand-traverse right at the top to a double bolt abseil station. Five bolt runners. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : The Holecombe Quarries (Bector Wood) - The Slab with No Name
Date of ascent : 18th October 2009
Route name : Second Time Around
Length/grade/stars : 12m F4
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones (both led)
Start location:
Pleasant slab just left of 'Long Time Coming'
Pitch descriptions:
Low in its grade. Four bolt runners to double ring abseil station. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : The Holecombe Quarries (Bector Wood) - The Slab with No Name
Date of ascent : 4th September 2009
Route name : Does Size Matter?
Length/grade/stars : 20m F5+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones
Start location:
Elementary climbing up what is arguably the best line on the Mendips!. The outside edge of the prominent wide cleft immediately right of 'Long Time Coming' provides an unusual and rather funky outing.
Pitch descriptions:
Be careful with the rock in the lower section. Nine bolt runners to double ring abseil station. … and now for the fun part … Lower back to the base from the double bolt abseil station and re-ascend the route this time starting up the inside of the wide cleft. Simple at first until the floor steepens up. The only route you will ever do where it's easier for those who eat lots of pies. |
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge - The Far Bay
Date of ascent : 31st October 2009
Route name : All Hallows Even
Length/grade/stars : Severe 19m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Ed Heslam (both led) and Fiona Campbell
Start location:
A congenial outing, up the distinctive groove line, in the middle of right wall of The Far Bay. Finding a good easy roadside route is a rare event!
Pitch descriptions:
Climb up into the initial scoop (peg runner), move up to a good hand ledge (peg runner), step across leftwards to easy ledges then scramble up to a bigger ledge above. Some initial small wires, and a critical large wire just above, protect a short diagonal slab leading to a another ledge (big hex placement) and an easy finishing corner. Double ring abseil station.
Additional info:
WINTER ONLY - WINTER ONLY - WINTER ONLY |
Submitted by : Mark Davies
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe - Owl Rock
Date of ascent : 06/03/2010
Route name : Open Knightly
Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS 5a one star
Climbers : M.S.Davies, G.X.Percival, D.Elder
Start location:
A surprisingly worthwhile addition on good rock that lurked beneath ivy on the far right end of Owl Rock. Start a metre or so right of the right-hand crack of Treebeard.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall direct to a small ledge and break (avoiding the easy approach to the right). Move up through a slight bulge on hidden holds following a shallow kinked groove to reach a larger ledge. Trend left towards a right facing hanging corner and climb this for a few moves until it is possible to swing left onto the rib and join the finish of Greybeard. |
Submitted by : Mark Davies
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe - The Obelisk
Date of ascent : 06/03/2010
Route name : Betwixt and Between
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS 4b
Climbers : M.S.Davies, G.X.Percival, D.Elder
Start location:
Start between Bolg and Legolas
Pitch descriptions:
Unashamedly eliminate but pleasantly delicate and far less strenuous than its neghibours. Climb the short wall and bold blunt arete between Bolg and Legolas. |
Submitted by : James Woodbridge
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Winterbourne Down - Forest Air Buttress left
Date of ascent : 07/04/10
Route Name : Introductory Offer
Length/Grade/Stars : 7m Diff
Climbers : James Woodbridge
Start Location :
In the corner where the two faces meet, at the bottom of the step like formation
Pitch Description:
Climb the step like formation, bridging to the right hand wall, until you reach a small ledge. From here move onto te right hand wall, continuing up using the left hand wall for the bridging. when near the top transfer over onto the left hand wall to finish and walk off from the top. |
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Wavering Down, The White Cliff.
Date of ascent : 10th April 2010
Route name : Blanc en Blanc.
Length/grade/stars : 8 metres, S **
Climbers : Theis Kotschi, Martin Bazley.
Start location:
from the Trig point on top of Wavering Down head due south for about half a kilometre then trend east toward some windblown yew trees,the crag is just below them.The route follows the shallow crack on the left of the tallest part of the crag.O.S. map explorer 141 Cheddar gorge,40 08, 55 05.
Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch, start at the shallow crack on left of crag,numerous small chock and natural thread runners into small alcove then trend right towards(but not over)small overhang and top.4b. The crag is weathered limestone with a small rock shelter which cuts right through from the bottom to the top of the outcrop and is well covered in ivy hinting at further routes waiting to be discovered,a pleasant place to spend an afternoon with spectacular views over the Somerset levels.
Additional info:
Trad ascent |
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Holcombe - Bector Wood
Date of ascent : 06/07/2010
Route Name : Often Overlooked
Length/grade/stars : 24m/HVS 5a One Star
Climbers : Evan Hall, Colin Knowles
Start location: At the base of the Vicious Eyes slab
Pitch descriptions:
This route climbs the corner to the left of Vicious Eyes. From the base of the slab climb easily to underneath the first bulge then surmount the succession of well-jammed flakes, with some challenge, until close to the
belay bolts on Vicious Eyes, when moves right and up can be made to belay at a sound Ash tree. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Sea Walls, Central Section
Date of ascent : Pre 1972
Route name : Mobius Pitch 4
Length/grade/stars : 20m, HVS 4b, 0
Climbers : E Drummond ?
Start location:
As description on page 122
Pitch descriptions:
As description on page 122 |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Sea Walls, Central Section
Date of ascent : 05/11/1977
Route name : Morpheus - indirect finish
Length/grade/stars : 10m, S 4a, 0
Climbers : N Barry, UBMC Party
Start location:
Start at the end of P4 of Morpheus.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb back up left above P4 towards the promient (ancient) PR, finish just right of it.
Additional info:
The ancient PR suggest a previous ascent |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Sea Walls, Central Section
Date of ascent :
Route name : Mobious, pitch 3
Length/grade/stars : As description on page 122.
Climbers : N Barry, J Ford
Start location:
As description on page 122.
Pitch descriptions:
As description on page 122.
Additional info:
A much better start is Nightcap, as climbed in 1983, note there was a PR at the base of the rib at this date (the Sleepwalk belay) |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : New Quarry, Right Wing
Date of ascent : 11/04/1994
Route name : JHC
Length/grade/stars : 17m, E2 5b, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
As Slugs & Snails, p141
Pitch descriptions:
As Slugs & Snails, p141
Additional info:
Repeated as Slugs & Snails |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Enigma Arête
Length/grade/stars : 12m S 4c, 0
Climbers : N Barry, H Barry
Start location:
As Helga, p206
Pitch descriptions:
As Helga, p206
Additional info:
Repeated as Helga |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Left Arête
Length/grade/stars : 8m, D, 0
Climbers : N Barry, H Barry
Start location:
Slabby arête opposite Enigma Arête (right of Stomp). Descend into the back of the gully on the west
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks up the arête |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Central Slab
Length/grade/stars : 8m, VD, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, ALOL
Start location:
Slab right of the central cleft
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracked slab |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Right Arête
Length/grade/stars : 8m, S 4a, 0
Climbers : A Tallant, C Jones
Start location:
Right arête of the slab
Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Mantleshelf Wall
Length/grade/stars : 8m, S 5a, 0
Climbers : A Tallant, P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
The wall just inside the gully to the right,
Pitch descriptions:
A hard rock-overmantleshelf.
Additional info:
All Solo |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Brean Down, The Fort Crags
Date of ascent : Pre 1966
Route name : Moat End Chimney
Length/grade/stars : 8m, M to VD, 0
Climbers : Unknown
Start location:
The South end of the fort moat.
Pitch descriptions:
VD, Left, At the entrance to the chimney climb a steep 10ft groove then the wall above. D, Direct, Climb the chimney, which is narrow at first to the broad cleft above. Finish up the left or right walls M, Right, A few feet to the right of the chimney is a narrow cleft, it is rather dirty
Additional info:
Dixon Guide |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Elgar
Length/grade/stars : 12m, VS 5a, 0
Climbers : A Tallant, C Jones
Start location:
As description on page 205
Pitch descriptions:
As description on page 205
Additional info:
Repeated later |
Submitted by : nigel barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Brean Down The Fort Crags
Date of ascent : Pre 1966
Route name : Shelter Chimney
Length/grade/stars : D to VD, 18m, 0
Climbers : Unknown
Start location:
To the right or roughly SE of the Moat are two concrete shelters, probably former gun emplacements. Just right of the lower shelter is a prominent cleft – Shelter Chimney.
Pitch descriptions:
VD, The Chimney Direct D, The Buttress to its right
Additional info:
Dixon Guide |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Upper Lift
Date of ascent : 05/07/1999
Route name : Black Pudding
Length/grade/stars : 35m E3 5c,
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start directlybelow the PR at the end of Le Poudin Noir traverse
Pitch descriptions:
For those who dont like traverses. Climb direct to the PR on Le Poudin Noir and continue as that route.
Additional info:
After climbing the ordinary route |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 28/04/1997
Route name : Wet Dreams
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HS 3c, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
Climbs up right of the easy (and protectable) slab taken by Easy Route, to finish near the top of Doinngggg (direct)
Additional info:
A heavy rain shower with the leader on the top moves caused much alarm |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 11/05/1998
Route name : Quip-U for Leisure
Length/grade/stars : 12m E1 5c, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
As Eco-line, P276
Pitch descriptions:
As Eco-line, P276
Additional info:
Both Led |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 28/04/1998
Route name : Equiped for your Pleasure
Length/grade/stars : 12m, E1 5b, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
As Mystery, P276
Pitch descriptions:
As Mystery, P276
Additional info:
Repeated as Mystery. The bolt was added after the first ascent by the same party. The alternative to the bolt being to tie off a 2" iron spike in the middle of the crux. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 28/04/1997
Route name : All Over Easy
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HS 4a, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Climbs the slab left of the square concrete block of Death By Concrete, via the two square holes, and a dangling bracket. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry
Date of ascent : 09/09/1996
Route name : Death by Concrete
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 4b, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Takes the obvious square concrete block direct with poor protection.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab, to a bracket right of the block (only protection), mantle the front of the block, and continue to the top. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 19/08/1996
Route name : Breakfast at Milliways
Length/grade/stars : 12m, VS 5b, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Climb between the two lines of quarry bolts & etc., just left of Big Bang Burger Bar.
Additional info:
Take lots of QDs on large krabs for the bolts. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 16/04/1996
Route name : CJD
Length/grade/stars : 12m, VS 5c, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Start just right of Big Bang Burger Bar and climb onto the concrete ledge. Follow the line of quarry bolts and step left to join the finish of Big Bang Burger Bar.
Additional info:
Originally climbed with 1 pt aid, FFA P. Sleet, N.Barry 160496 |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 22/04/97
Route name : Scrapie
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 5a, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Climb through the gap in the concrete ledge, step left and climb the line of quarry bolts, finish past a square hole. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 22/04/1997
Route name : BSE
Length/grade/stars : 12jm, E1 5c, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start as Scrapie, but trend right and follow the shallow crack to a ledge. Straight up to finish. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 16/04/1996
Route name : Whip U for Pleasure
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 4c, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start left of Brackets and climb onto a concrete ledge, traverse left and follow the line of boltsbrackets to the ledge. Step left and finish as BSE. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry,.Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 05/07/1999
Route name : Red Rag to a Bull
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 5a, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start as Brackets, 2nd bracket treaded as a runner. Climb the flake above, Friend#3 in pocket. Finish up the pink slab above (past 2 BRs) to a cleaned exit. |
To celebrate the re-opening of Fairy Cave Quarry:
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 27/07/2010
Route name : Ten Minute Arête
Length/grade/stars : VD one star 30m
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Ian Hegarty
Start location:
The right hand side of 'Pete's Wall'
Pitch descriptions:
A very pleasant route on rough mainly sound rock with good
protection, with an airy feel in the upper section. Ideal for a novice
leader. |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Main Area
Date of ascent : Autumn 1985
Route name : Evening Topsy Direct
Length/grade/stars : As guide
Climbers : Nigel Barry
Start location:
As guide
Pitch descriptions:
As guide
Additional info:
Belayed by Dave Woodnutt, after the attempt the previous week by Woodnutt & Morley. The leader reached the top of the rock but could not exit due to too much thorn. The party abseiled off and retreated up Bob's Climb. |
Submitted by : Graeme Thomson
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe - car park Bay
Date of ascent : 13/03/2011
Route name : Tie One On
Length/grade/stars : E2 5b
Climbers : Graeme Thomson, Rachel Thomson
Start location:
Start in the corner (by tree) at the left end of the car park bay red wall.
Pitch descriptions:
Take the rising traverse line that runs from head height via a couple of tricky moves (while passing The Goblins Teasmade) to its end and finish direct via the corner crack (I think it's called Edge of Mirkwood) |
Submitted by : Henry Castle
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Lower Amphitheatre Wall
Date of ascent : 28/4/2010
Route name : Break Down
Length/grade/stars : 90m, E4 6a,
Climbers : Henry Castle, Phil Beddow
Start location:
Start as for Lay in Wait, at the far right end of Lower Amphitheatre Wall.
Pitch descriptions:
A rather scruffy first pitch is required to get to the main event, although it is in keeping with general theme and gives an opportunity to warm up the "guns." Many medium sized cams prove invaluable. Pitch 1. 35m45m. 4b. Follow Lay in Wait for 5m and use the ledge on the left to walk left a further 5m. Climb up left to arrive under a thin strip roof. Traverse left under the roofs to belay by a projecting tree, or continue left to another small ledge a further 10m on. Pitch 2. 20m. 6a. Climb up left on rising ledges to the upper break line, now the fun begins. Plug cams into the break above a small corner and launch out left on the just over hanging red wall. 15m of sustained climbing following the break arrives you at a ledge and belay with peg and good nuts. Pitch 3. 35m. 4c. Climb directly up the wall above the belay for 5m, to a sloping mantle. Walk to the back of the large slab to two trees. Sling these and return back to the edge to belay and bring your second up the last 5m of the climb.
Additional info:
The chances of this having never been climbed before are slim. Second ascent by Henry Castle and Dave Talbot, 5/5/2010 |
Submitted by : Richard Hall
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Avon Gorge Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 21/06/2011
Route name : Ares
Length/grade/stars : 20m E5
Climbers : Richard Hall
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
6c The right hand side of the Pathos arete. Start up the bulging arête as for Pathos and Academic. Follow Pathos onto the grassy ledge then step up and right back onto the arête, fix a Friend 3.5 in the shallow slot and stretch to clip the peg (new and good) on Pathos. From the cam slot leave Pathos via a long reach to a big sloper on the arête. Continue up the right hand side of the arête via a series of hard snatches between small holds to the sanctuary of a good flat hold. Fix the final protection if desired (a slider 1, which can be borrowed from the first ascensionist) and make the final easier moves to a large ledge. Continue up the arête to the lower off of Academic and Eros.
Additional info:
Style – Headpoint (process started before the reinstallation of the Pathos peg)
Also worth noting that second ascensionist Martin Crocker, climbed an easier and slightly safer left hand variation. From the big sloper this moves up the left hand side of the arête with feet on the Pathos slab. This is E5 6b. |
Submitted by : Mark Carnall - Serious changes due to rock damage
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Main Wall
Date of ascent :
Route name : The Writing On The Wall (existing route)
Length/grade/stars : E3
Climbers :
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
There has been a serious change to the last pitch of the above route. There is an obvious red scar where a big hold has recently come off on the last hard move before the easy arête (just to the left of the peg) I tried to use what was left of the hold as a side pull but it broke off too, making this move at least 6a in my opinion (previously 5a) There were two carabiners on the two level pegs about ten foot below where a previous party had obviously retreated so someone at least thought the same. Instead of up and left at the peg I went up and right, and then back left to the arête at 5c or possibly 6a I notice there has been a lot of this here after such a harsh winter. |
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Bector Wood Quarry (OS 670478) aka Holcombe West
Date of ascent : 16/08/2011
Route name : Between the Lines
Length/grade/stars : HVS 5b, 18m 2 Stars
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Simon Fletcher
Start location:
This exciting climb will rapidly become a quarry classic. To the left of the Vicious EyesOften Overlooked slab is a wall with, from left to right, two hanging corners and a chimney. This route climbs the middle line.
Pitch descriptions:
Start behind trees under an overhang with a prominent right-trending flake crack. Climb this (strenuous) until a delicate move can be made onto a sloping ledge. Just left is a hanging groove; gain the groove by a baffling move (for the short), and climb to the base of the open-book corner. Enter the corner by challenging moves and climb excitingly to the top, exiting on the left. From here belay and abseil off the three trees on the left or continue readily to the top with caution.
Additional info:
Totally trad |
Submitted by : Tom Irving
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 2005
Route name : Big Bertha
Length/grade/stars : E1 5a
Climbers : Tom Irving, Ally Smith
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
An alternative finishing pitch taking the arete right of the top corner pitch of Us which is easier than it looks. Belays off big bertha, the purpose made metal tube, in-situ above the arete tat lies between the top pitch of banshee and pilgrim's progress.
Additional info:
Comment from second ascentionist: E2 5b. TricamRock 10 useful. Use the dodgy block with care, though it seemed to hold my second's weight |
Submitted by : Martyn Richards
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Lion Rock
Date of ascent : 26/11/11
Route name : Lion's Pride
Length/grade/stars : *** F8a
Climbers : M.Richards, A.Sharp and M.Shewring
Start location:
A very worthwhile link up combining some of the best the Lion has to offer. Start as for Human Zoo
Pitch descriptions:
Climb Human Zoo to its second bolt, move right into Cheddar Death Knell and then Taming the Lion, pull up to the roof (peg and then bolt) before pulling up and rightwards into the niche and big undercuts on Shadow Walker, move right and finish up bulging arête (finish of Lion sleeps tonight). |
Submitted by : Martyn Richards
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Lion Rock
Date of ascent : 19/11/11
Route name : Circus Finale
Length/grade/stars : *** F7c+
Climbers : M Richards, A Sharp
Start location:
Start on Circus Circus
Pitch descriptions:
A sporty finish to Circus Circus moving left onto the face from jugs post crux to finish up bulging arête of Lion Sleeps Tonight. |
including Area, Crag and Route Name.
