Submitted by : André Hedger
Area : Southern Sandstone
Crag : Saltdean - Four X Four Wall (3) and Pleasure-dome (1)
There are 3 new exciting routes in the old 4X4 area following the collapse of this whole section.
1 Cotswold Guildford goes Outdoors - Chalk 7 - Climbers, Matt Taylerson & Richard Handy
The first one is just right of the slab and goes through the overhanging start to follow the bolts to the right and then to an awkward pull teetering on the arete before finally gaining the upper reaches of the slab to a new Belay. Sadly Matt Taylerson who did the first ascent has named it "Cotswold Guildford goes Outdoors" so that he could get a freebie from this shop where he works. Richard Handy did the first ascent and helped create it with Matt. Matt knows it is poor show but he is only young and penniless and knows as with all Chalk Routes it is not permanent. It is graded Chalk 7 and is well worth doing.
2 Christmas Cracker - Chalk 6 - Climbers, André Hedger &Bez Bezancon
The second one is to the right where the old "Police 5" went. There is a new belay much higher than before. The Chalk is also steeper than before the rockfall so this follows the bolts and arrowed holds. Extremely reachy but well made holds and well bolted. It is Grade 6 and is called "Christmas Cracker' as it was done on the day of the Christmas Curry. All 3 of these routes were done on the same day Wednesday, December the 9th, 2009
3 Claus for Chalk - Chalk 5+ - Climbers, André Hedger &Bez Bezancon
The third one is further right to this but shares the same first bolt. It is a fine and stretchy climb which could get classic status! It is Grade 5+ and also goes to a new belay.
I did the first ascent of the second and third route with Bez Bezancon. It is called "Claus for Chalk"
There is also a new one I put up in the Pleasure Dome where there has been loads of Rockfall
4 Init - Chalk 7 - Climber, André Hedger
The climb is where the old "Cat on a Tin Roof" went. It goes to the same belay but now has a huge overhanging undercut base. The route strenuously pulls through this roof following the spaced arrows and is a Grade 7. It is called "Init" the slang version of Isn't it!
Additional info:
I have been using up bolts and belay rings like crazy so if anyone can source more rings or bolts then that would be appreciated. |