New Routes - Tremadog

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Tarw p 105
Date of ascent : 15/10/10
Route name : Ivy Jive
Length/grade/stars : 13m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
100 metres below and right of the main cliff, just past a low wall, is a small buttress. The left flank is ivy clad, but the right flank, comprising ribs and slabs above a large boulder is rather better (don't get too excited!). Start at a steep arête just above and left of the large boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a steep pull up through the undercut first part of the arête (trying to avoid the pointed block on the right). Continue up the ribs above to finish up a short steep wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Tarw p 105
Date of ascent : 15/10/10
Route name : Warts and All
Length/grade/stars : 13m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at a corner immediately right of Ivy Jive.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pocketed right wall of the corner and continue up the slabs and walls to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Gesail p 60
Date of ascent : 16/10/10
Route name : Monument Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres left of Cadw below a stepped ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Swarm up the flake crack and continue up the ridge on the right to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Gesail p 60
Date of ascent : 16/10/10
Route name : Keep
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 16 metres down and right of Cadw at a grassy corner adjacent to an floor-level ironstone slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Hand traverse rightwards along the wide crack and gain the rib. Follow this past a flake and wide crack to reach a ledge. Traverse left for 2 metres and finish up the slabby-looking corner. An interesting route, with a contrived but superb finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Gesail p 60
Date of ascent : 16/10/10
Route name : Ansawdd
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Just above the finish of Overcome is a fine pillar of rock with a white mossy streak down its right-hand side. Start in the centre of the pillar.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the pillar, trending slightly leftwards to gain flakes and a good foothold below the thin cracks in the headwall. A stiff pull up gains the top; excellent.

Additional info:
The name means "quality".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Gesail p 60
Date of ascent : 16/10/10
Route name : Betio
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Ansawdd and just left of a large ash tree.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step off the flake and move up to the undercut. Step rightwards and follow the rib to a finish up the short groove on the left.

Additional info:
The name means "to gamble".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Gesail p 60
Date of ascent : 16/10/10
Route name : Teilwng
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
20 metres down and right of Betio is another fine, but smaller buttress; marked by stepped grooves on the right-hand side of its front face. Start at the foot of the front face 1 metre left of the stepped grooves.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up, trending slightly leftwards to gain a tapering corner; follow this to the top.

Additional info:
The name means "worthy".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig y Gesail p 60
Date of ascent : 16/10/10
Route name : Taclus
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Teilwng.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull into the stepped grooves and follow these to a rounded boss on the right. Stand on the boss and step left to finish.

Additional info:
The name means "tidy".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig Penmaen Brith p 334
Date of ascent : 19/10/10
Route name : Thumbelina
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
25 metres above and left of the finish of Excalibur is a reasonably clean, fine, short brown-hued wall (clearly seen on p 337 of the new guidebook); which gives three nice micros. Start at the foot of the brown rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the shallow groove on the left flank of the rib and continue up to the top. The right side of the rib is Tiny BJ Clarke (solo) (19.10.10)

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig Penmaen Brith p 334
Date of ascent : 19/10/10
Route name : Tumbelina
Length/grade/stars : 5m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start just left of Thumbelina.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Lurch up to the ledge (dyno for the short)! Finish up the shallow groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Right Wing
Length/grade/stars : 14m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Right Groove at a steep alcove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull through the alcove to gain a groove. Move up and step left on to a broad slabby rib and follow this to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Granf
Length/grade/stars : 16m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
25 metres up and right of Toasted Trout is a V-groove with a slabby right wall. Start 2 metres left of this V-groove at a right-trending flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the flake crack with much assistance from the wall immediately right, to gain an easier-angled groove. Move up and right to climb the left side of the rib above to easier ground and the top.

Additional info:
Toasted Trout is 23 metres up the gully from Burned Carp not 50m! What an amazing little crag this is, a kind of micro East Buttress of Scafell! The descent is problematic- to the right is a bog and to the left steep heathery down-climbing. For the confident, reversing Gramps (the next route) is favourite!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Gramps
Length/grade/stars : 22m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the V-groove 2 metres right of Granf.

Pitch descriptions:
Start up the V-groove, then foot traverse the shelf on the left into Granf. Move up and stroll across the broad slab to the left. Finish up a short slab on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Ticklefish
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Gramps.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the V-groove to the overhang, then move up left to a ledge. Pull over the bulge above to reach easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Plaice Face
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Ticklefish.

Pitch descriptions:
Start up the V-groove, then follow the slabby wall on the right and step around to a slab. Climb the steep wall above on the right and follow a vague rib to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Asgell
Length/grade/stars : 17m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The opposite wall of the gully comprises a broken slab. However, the slab is cleaner and better at both its right-hand and left-hand ends. Start at the foot of the cleaner strip of rock at its right-hand end.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the cleaner strip up the slab, keeping to the left near the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Truchswm
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Asgell below an attractive, grey rib; almost opposite the V-groove of Gramps.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the rib up the slab, with a tricky move at the horizontal break.

Additional info:
The name is a play on "tricksome"! Incidentally Asgell means "aisle"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Clogwyn Coch p 274
Date of ascent : 20/10/10
Route name : Brychni
Length/grade/stars : 13m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Truchswm.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the scooped slab, finishing up a little wall. The left-trending line just left gives the brittle Snapper BJ Clarke (solo)(20.10.10)

Additional info:
Brychni means "freckles"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Castell Clogwyn Coch p 279
Date of ascent : 10/11/2010
Route name : Off Yer
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Office Rocker.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the short crack and continue up the slabby wall to finish up the ridge. The chimney-crack just left, followed by the ridge above gives a short tussle Squiz (S) BJ Clarke (solo) (10112010).

Additional info:
Office Rocker repeated; grade thought to be HS 4a, due to the bold start!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Castell Clogwyn Coch p 279
Date of ascent : 10/11/2010
Route name : Organ Stops
Length/grade/stars : 17m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
25 metres left of Office Rocker is a slabby buttress of rather crunchy rock, guarded by a large bulge. Start on the left side of the buttress at a higher level on a quartz slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a tricky step on to the wall and traverse right to the arete. Follow the easier slabs to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Castell Clogwyn Coch p 279
Date of ascent : 10/11/2010
Route name : Obtrusion
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of Organ Stops, where the bulge dwindles.

Pitch descriptions:
From a block, step across on to the lip of the bulge and follow the brown slab up and leftwards; before finishing up the paler slab on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Craig Bwlch y Moch p 152
Date of ascent : 10/11/2010
Route name : Willow Wind
Length/grade/stars : 21m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Fohn.

Pitch descriptions:
4b The highlight is the fine traverse near the top. Climb the sharp edge of the large flake, then follow the corner crack on the right for 4 metres until a thin horizontal crack leads out rightwards. Finger traverse the horizontal crack and gain the top of the buttress; scramble up to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Lliwedd Bychan p 294
Date of ascent : 16/11/2010
Route name : Only
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of God Knows.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a subsidiary buttress to gain the heathery break. Step right and follow the left side of the main slab on smaller holds than usual on this crag.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Lliwedd Bychan p 294
Date of ascent : 16/11/2010
Route name : Riches to Rags
Length/grade/stars : 65m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Only.

Pitch descriptions:
It had to be done; a left-to-right girdle! Many variations are possible but the line described avoids most of the ledge systems. Belay at will! Follow Only to the heathery break. Step right and follow the ramps rightwards to gain the heather-filled gully. Continue right to gain Orthin just above the slight bulge. An ascent up and right enables a descent down into the groove system of Eastern Route to be made. Follow the diagonal crack system rightwards to a heather bay; move right and finish up the upper break of Croesor.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Lliwedd Bychan p 294
Date of ascent : 16/11/2010
Route name : Slab and Rib
Length/grade/stars : 30m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Heather Gully and 1 metre left of Central Route.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the smooth slab; then step left to follow the left rib of Right Gully Rim to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Lliwedd Bychan p 294
Date of ascent : 16/11/2010
Route name : Look, a Gap!
Length/grade/stars : 35m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Eastern Route.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the wall slightly rightwards to reach a ledge. Gain a niche up and right; avoid the perched block above by moving right and following a groove to reach a ledge. Climb a thin crack in the white slab on the left and finish up another crack in the apex of the slabby wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 13/12/2010
Route name : Cut Above
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of The Bosun's Knife.

Additional info:
Incidentally, short climbers enjoying The Bosun's Knife (Diff); may be horrified by a 5a move at the top!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 13/12/2010
Route name : Twndis
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
30 metres down and right of Summit Wall, and 5 metres above a fence corner; is a buttress with a chimney in its centre and a flake crack above. Start at the foot of the chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the right rib of the chimney for 2 metres, until the chimney can be entered boldy. Climb the chimney and flake crack above.

Additional info:
The name means "funnel"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 13/12/2010
Route name : Gwendid
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of the chimney of Twndis.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a steep crack awkwardly to reach the base of a large perched flake. Finish up the loose grooves on the left.

Additional info:
The name means "weakness"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 13/12/2010
Route name : Gwyll
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Twndis.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up, then rightwards to gain better holds in a groove. Finish up the right side of the headwall.

Additional info:
The name means "darkness"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Powder
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
25 metres above Twndis is a buttress with a central rib containing three slanting bulges; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the central rib directly through the bulges. The wall just right is well marked and gives Keg (S).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Rover's Return
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
18 metres right of Powder is a wall containing a flanged crack; start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the excellent flanged crack. The fine left arête of the wall is well scratched and gives Good Hope (HS 4b).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Bwci
Length/grade/stars : 6m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start just right of Rover's Return.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the steep wall via a series of mantleshelves.

Additional info:
The name means "ghost"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Spinnaker
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
8 metres right of Bwci are twin cracks with an attractive, smooth slabby wall on their left. Start below and left of the smooth slabby wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain a bollard, step right and follow the left side of the smooth slabby wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Spinach
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Spinnaker, below the twin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the twin cracks. The squeezed, thin wall just right is Olive Oyl (HS 4b).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Mainmast Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Bluto
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Spinach.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack. The wall just right via a niche gives Gwasgfa (HS 4b).

Additional info:
The name means "squeeze"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Bulkhead Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Batten Down
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Bulkhead Route.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the fine wall directly and finish up its left edge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Moel y Gest p 229
Crag : Bulkhead Buttress
Date of ascent : 15/12/2010
Route name : Y Diwedd
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Bulkhead Route behind the man-sized detached flakes.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the dark-stained wall to a niche. Pull over a slight bulge and scramble up rightwards for a few metres to reach the descent trough; good climbing!

Additional info:
The name means "the end"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Mur Bach p 291
Date of ascent : 18/01/2011
Route name : Sebastian
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres down and left of Punky's Dilemma.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the fine, curved, crevassed ledge leftwards and climb the flakes above to gain a steep crack. Swing left and climb the wall just left of the crack; to a finish up the short walls and cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Mur Bach p 291
Date of ascent : 18/01/2011
Route name : Johann
Length/grade/stars : 22m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Potted Precipice.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the shelves leftwards, keeping to their right-hand side, and pull up a short crack to gain the upper slab. Step left and follow the thin flake crack up the slab to a ledge. Step right and pull up a short wall to reach blocks and the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Mur Bach p 291
Date of ascent : 18/01/2011
Route name : Magdalena
Length/grade/stars : 20m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Potted Precipice.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up to the right to gain the overhanging block, and climb this on its right side. Finish up the arête above and right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr P 292
Date of ascent : 18/01/2011
Route name : Gaeaf
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite Punky's Dilemma, the left sidewall of the gully (looking down) comprises a series of attractive slabs guarde by blobby walls. Start at the extreme left end of this section below a glacis in a short corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the glacis; step left and follow the slab above.

Additional info:
The name means "winter"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 18/01/2011
Route name : Grom
Length/grade/stars : 14m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres down and right of Gaeaf at a right-curving slabby ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb right-curving slabby ramp.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 18/01/2011
Route name : Trysor
Length/grade/stars : 17m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Grom.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow Grom for 5 metres; then climb the left-slanting groove on the left. Continue up the slab above, via the niche, to the top. Superb, bold climbing!

Additional info:
Trysor means "treasure"! also Grom means "curved"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Mur Bach p 291
Date of ascent : 24/01/2011
Route name : Emmanuel
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres up and right of Punky's Dilemma on a high rock ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step left off the ledge and follow the thin crack; before swinging left and gaining the ledge above. Move up left and follow the rather brittle left-trending crack to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Mur Bach p 291
Date of ascent : 24/01/2011
Route name : Friedrich
Length/grade/stars : 17m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Emmanuel below a wide, left-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Swarm up the crack elegantly to a niche. Traverse 3 metres left and follow the crack line up the headwall; taking care with the loose flake near the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr P 292
Date of ascent : 24/01/2011
Route name : Gwanwyn
Length/grade/stars : 14m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Gaeaf.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the holds and vague crack leftwards up the steep wall and gain the slab. Finish up the cracks in the slab; good climbing!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 24/01/2011
Route name : Hwnt
Length/grade/stars : 12m HS
Climbers : BJ clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres down and right of Grom, and just right of the moss.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step off a boulder and climb the wall to a bulge guarding a short groove. Pull over the bulge and climb the groove to a finish up the broad rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 24/01/2011
Route name : Hirbell
Length/grade/stars : 13m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Hwnt.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Make a move up, then stretch up rightwards to a good hold and gain a small sloping ledge. Step right and pull through the bulge and finish up the slabby groove on the left

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 24/01/2011
Route name : Llosgfnydd
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres down and right of Hwnt at a blobby wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the blobby wall and pull slightly rightwards through the small overlaps. Move up a short corner and finish up the slab.

Additional info:
Gwanwyn means "Spring"! Hwnt means "yonder"! Hirbell means "distant"! Llosgfnydd means "volcano"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Mur Bach p 291
Date of ascent : 31/01/2011
Route name : Cothen Corner
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Sebastian.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Walk left along the curved ledge, then climb the curving corner above. Continue up a short wall and finish up the corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 31/01/2011
Route name : Bustachu
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Hwnt.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step off a boulder onto the short, impending wall and gain the sloping ledge above with difficulty. Climb the next bulge rightwards, move up, and finish rightwards up the slab.

Additional info:
The name means "to flounder"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 31/01/2011
Route name : Bwrlwm
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Llosgfnydd.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up the wall and climb rightwards through the small bulges; finishing up a tiny capped groove to reach easier ground, excellent!

Additional info:
The name means "bubble"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 31/01/2011
Route name : Hynafol
Length/grade/stars : 18m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Bwrlwm.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb rightwards across the brown crinkly wall to reach the edge; before climbing the wall on the left to gain the heather terrace. Scramble rightwards (optional belays) to reach the shallow groove at the left-hand end of the headwall. Follow this shallow groove, mainly by its left wall, to a balding finish; delectable!

Additional info:
The name means "ancient"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Bwtres Mawr p 292
Date of ascent : 31/01/2011
Route name : Mur Dur
Length/grade/stars : 30m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Steelworker.

Pitch descriptions:
1 13m Climb directly up the blobby wall to the heathery bay. 2 17m Gain the slab above, via the short corner; and follow it up and leftwards to a finish up a short, steep wall.

Additional info:
The name means "steel wall"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Yr Arddu
Crag : Mur Bach p 291
Date of ascent : 31/01/2011
Route name : Brandenburg
Length/grade/stars : 16m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres up and right of Sebastian and 3 metres left of Punky's Dilemma; at a short groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Start the groove awkwardly to reach a ledge, continue up the crack on the left to beneath the headwall. Step up right to a ledge; then finger traverse leftwards to finish up a thin crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog Nant Gwynant
Crag : Craig y LLyn (p 321)
Date of ascent : 16/06/2011
Route name : Coppernob
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Power Snob on a higher ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up, then follow the shelves rightwards to a thought-provoking finish up a short groove just left of the arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Yr Arddu (p 281)
Date of ascent : 12/01/2012
Route name : Ben Gunn
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
One hundred and twenty metres directly above the narrow opening in the stone wall on the approach to Carreg Bengam; is a line of walls divided by vegetated corners. At their right end, an attractive wall is framed between ivy on the left and a large holly tree on the right; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up to a ledge on the left at 2 metres. Step right, and use a good spike to gain and follow a series of right-trending grooves to a finish on the rib on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Yr Arddu (p 281)
Date of ascent : 12/01/2012
Route name : Hispaniola
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Forty-five metres above and right of the finish of Ben Gunn is a fine, bulging, slightly-kinked rib. Start below a groove in the left flank of the rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the groove to a small bulge. Step right and finish up the white streak in the edge of the rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Yr Arddu (p 281)
Date of ascent : 12/01/2012
Route name : Yo Ho Ho
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
From the start of Ben Gunn, a walk of 50 metres rightwards, first up, then downwards reaches a dome-shaped buttress. The main feature is an impressive central wall beetling with overhangs; and bordered to its right by a heather-filled groove. This wall wouldn't look out of place on the nearby Carreg Bengam Bach! Start 2 metres right of the heather-filled groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up, then right to gain the obvious flat ledge on the rib. Continue awkwardly to below a bulge containing two dirty cracks. Pull leftwards around the bulge to finish up the wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel y Gest (p 227)
Date of ascent : 13/01/2012
Route name : Nigel's Plan
Length/grade/stars : 21m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)-- but with a trailing rope for the abseil!
Start location:
Start as for Sailor Bob's Furry Spru Stool.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Scratch up the right edge of the slab (optional), then follow the crack above, which usually holds the protection for Sailor Bob's...., to finish up the arête and so gain the abseil point.

Additional info:
This is the line spotted by Nigel Barry during the CC Aspirants' Meet (June 2011)!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel y Gest (p 227)
Date of ascent : 13/01/2012
Route name : Burnt Island
Length/grade/stars : 22m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres below and right of Sailor Bob's.... below a narrow inset slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the slab, keeping left of the vegetated alcove, to a heathery pull-out. Continue up to the abseil point.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel y Gest (p 227)
Date of ascent : 13/01/2012
Route name : Y Llong
Length/grade/stars : 23m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Burnt Island, below a beautiful red slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the scrappy corner on the right of the slab for 4 metres; before traversing leftwards to gain a standing position on a cup hold. Continue up the delightful slab, keeping left of the rib; until a reach gains a hold in the middle of nowhere. Scratch upwards to easier ground and the abseil point above and left.

Additional info:
Desperately needs a direct start (5c?)! The name means "The Ship", the Camra pub of the year 2011 in Porthmadog!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel y Gest (p 227)
Date of ascent : 13/01/2012
Route name : Dredged Up
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty metres right of Bulkhead Buttress, a battered stone wall runs up the hillside to end at a slabby wall whose right side is cloaked in ivy. Start 2 metres left of the ivy.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow a series of cracks and shallow grooves up the right-hand side of the clean wall for 8 metres; before stepping left to gain a ledge. Climb the steeper wall just right of the thin crack, and finish up the final wall via a crack and smooth groove on its right side, Pleasant climbing despite the ledges!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Yr Arddu Bwtres Mawr (p 292)
Date of ascent : 14/01/2012
Route name : Arian
Length/grade/stars : 12m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Shani's Climb.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Ascend the wall up and leftwards to reach the rib. Swing left and climb the steep left wall of the rib to gain Shani's Climb.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Yr Arddu Bwtres Mawr (p 292)
Date of ascent : 14/01/2012
Route name : Lamb Chop
Length/grade/stars : 55m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres right of Obscurer at a block in a gap.

Pitch descriptions:
1 30m Follow slabs and a short wall up rightwards to heather. Belay on a higher ledge at the foot of the main central wall and just below a small, blocky roof. 2 25m Climb up just right of the roof, and continue up the wall slightly rightwards to gain the upper slabs. Amble up these to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Yr Arddu Bwtres Mawr (p 292)
Date of ascent : 14/01/2012
Route name : Rwm Ba
Length/grade/stars : 40m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Steelworker.

Pitch descriptions:
1 24m Climb the right side of the blobby wall, then continue up the attractive red gangway on the right to gain the heather bay at the top of p3 of Joy Division. 2 16m 4c Move left and climb up to the curving roof. Make a tricky traverse right below the roof and gain a ledge. Climb a rib on the left and slabs to the top.

Additional info:
The left-hand stile in the stone wall, below Mur Bach is now defunct!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel Ddu Craig Glaslyn (p 256)
Date of ascent : 19/02/2012
Route name : Dwyrain
Length/grade/stars : 45m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Gorwedd Nol a Meddwl.

Pitch descriptions:
A pleasant right to left traverse across the slabs. Climb rightwards along a shelf for 4 metres, and pull up onto the slab. Using the edge of the wide crack above, follow the slab up and leftwards to its apex above Simddau Fawr. Step left and follow the slab up and slightly leftwards to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel Ddu (p 254)
Date of ascent : 20/02/2012
Route name : South Park
Length/grade/stars : 20m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of the foot of Corner Ridge at a squat pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the pinnacle and continue up the loose, but straightforward slab to a ledge. Climb the slightly better flaky rib above to gain a large block belay on Corner Ridge. The Ridge gives the descent!

Additional info:
Despite the guide writers' exhortations to explore (p 257); this is a poor area, when compared with the lower buttresses! The rock also takes a turn for the worse; becoming slatey with exfoliating flakes. As a bonus, every nook and cranny is choked with beligerent heather- good luck!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel Ddu Craig y Llys (p 256)
Date of ascent : 06/03/2012
Route name : Cynnar
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of the rowan tree on Perthi Gwyn and just above the base of the grassy section of the descent gully.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and follow the left-slanting cracks in the left wall of the rib. Where they fade, move right and climb the rib, to finish at the top of Perthi Gwyn.

Additional info:
The name means "early"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel Ddu Craig y Llys (p 256)
Date of ascent : 06/03/2012
Route name : Llwyn Onn
Length/grade/stars : 26m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Perthi Gwyn.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Perthi Gwyn to the rowan tree, then climb the shallow groove and its continuation above and slightly right, to finish up a slab.

Additional info:
The name means "ash grove"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Moel Ddu Craig y Llys (p 256)
Date of ascent : 06/03/2012
Route name : To Dwyfor
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the rowan tree on Perthi Gwyn.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step right awkwardly onto the rib and follow this to heather. A few scrappy metres leads to the next rib on the right and a position below and left of the slabby headwall. Continue up to reach the horizontal crack; and follow this rightwards across the headwall, in a fine position, to the top.

Additional info:
Gelli'r Haul is a great little route, but serious-- so maybe an upgrade to VS 4b? It's a kind of Crackstone Rib of the Glaslyn area!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Nant Gwynant Craig Ddu (p 330)
Date of ascent : 08/03/2012
Route name : Stone Clad Slab
Length/grade/stars : 45m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
At the bottom of the left-hand ridge of Craig Ddu the rocks compact to produce a distinctive red slab; about 80 metres behind the top of the Gladstone Slab. This is clearly seen on p330 of the new guide. Start below the red slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards, then leftwards up a slanting rib, before pulling up a steep little wall to gain the red slab itself. Follow the slab to a terrace and block belays above and right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Nant Gwynant Craig Ddu (p 330)
Date of ascent : 08/03/2012
Route name : J Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 25m Mod
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 25 metres left of Stone Clad Slab below a right-curving ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the left-hand side of the ridge, then the edge itself to the top.

Additional info:
Gladstone Slab is a superb straightforward climb in a great, sunny position. With two bolt belays halfway (it wasn't me, honest!) and a stake belay at the top-- a good day out for the tyros! It is only briefly (one sentence) mentioned in the new guide. Whilst nearby, the mossy choss heaps of Aberglaslyn Pass, Penmaen Brith and Craig Cwm Dyli are allotted 18 precious pages!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Nant Gwynant (p 317)
Date of ascent : 23/04/2012
Route name : Scaly Back
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Just right of Dragon's Breath a wide, shallow grassy gully runs upwards for 60 metres. At its top on its right side is a bald slab, start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Pad up the slab and finish rightwards.

Additional info:
St George's Day of course!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Nant Gwynant (p 317)
Date of ascent : 23/04/2012
Route name : Dragon's Breath
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metre right of Dragon Crack at the wavy brown slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib, just left of the steep wall; before stepping right and following the wavy alab to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Nant Gwynant (p 317)
Date of ascent : 23/04/2012
Route name : Dragon Crack
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of By George at a higher level, below a crack in a slab guarded by a small roof.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull through the roof and climb the crack to a ledge, from where the scoop on the right leads to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Tremadog
Crag : Nant Gwynant (p 317)
Date of ascent : 23/04/2012
Route name : By George
Length/grade/stars : 13m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
On the West flank of Carnedd y Cribau facing Snowdon are a series of outcrops, called Braich Llwyd on the 1:25000 map (O S Ref 664 541). Park at the Snowdon viewpoint lay by, one and a half kilometres down the Nant Gwynant road (A 498) from the Pen-y-Gwryd. Cross the stile opposite and march uphill Eastwards to reach the rocks in 20 minutes. The majority of the routes are on the lowest rocks on the left; characterized by a cracked rib on the left and a wavy brown slab on the right. Start at the foot of the cracked rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib and finish rightwards up the slabs above.