Barry Clarke New Routes - Ogwen

New Guidebook published April 2010

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Bednobs
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Shed's Arete below a knobbly rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the rib from the right and follow it and its continuation to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Trampled Slab
Length/grade/stars : 27m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Matt's Pad.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up left and follow a short corner and the left edge of the slab; before moving right and up to gain the large ledge. Gain the upper slab from the left and follow it to a finish up the inset slab on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Padding Pool
Length/grade/stars : 28m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres down and right of Matt's Pad.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall and a brown rib above and right; then direct up the slab to reach the large ledge. Finish up the slab between the twin cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Haul Up Front
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the top of Ejectamenta.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Bridge the gully and use a good hold on the left rib to gain the arete. Climb the slab just left to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Slab Tramp
Length/grade/stars : 17m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Bistromaths, below a vegetated gully.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb straight up the clean streak in the slab on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Gwyn Rib
Length/grade/stars : 4m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Below Ejectamenta are a series of boulders (well seen on p 31). Start at the foot of the right rib of the fine, well-marked wall (on the upper set of boulders), facing down towards the Nant Gwnant.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rib. The rough groove immeditely right gives Gruff (4m S 4b 11.06.10).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul p 29
Date of ascent : 11/06/10
Route name : Spring Chicken
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Gruff.

Pitch descriptions:
4c A bridging start gains the undercut slab on the right; which is followed with some trepidation.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Bastow Mines p 94
Date of ascent : 17/06/10
Route name : No Wisdom
Length/grade/stars : 40m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The bulk of Bastow Mines is broken; but its right-hand buttress, almost separated from the main mass by a steep grassy gully, is more continuous giving three interesting routes on rather unnerving, flaky rock. Start on the right side of the right-hand buttress at a grassy corner below a right-slanting heathery groove; and just left of a small pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right-slanting groove, using its right rib in places to reach a sloping ledge below a steep headwall. Move 3 metres right and escape up a series of right-trending flake holds.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Bastow Mines p 94
Date of ascent : 17/06/10
Route name : King Solomon's Crack
Length/grade/stars : 38m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of No Wisdom below a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wide crack, and continue up the crackline to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Bastow Mines p 94
Date of ascent : 17/06/10
Route name : Our Foolish Ways
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres up and left of King Solomon's Crack below a block at the left end of a line of small overhangs.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step left and ascend a rib to gain the top of the block. Step right and climb the crack to reach a steep little wall. Up this, then follow the left-trending thin cracks to easier ground and the top. Good climbing on fascinating, "will it or won't it" rock!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The Milestone Area
Crag : Creigiau'r Dena p 128
Date of ascent : 02/07/10
Route name : Scrawnsome
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Anniversary Approach below a wide flake crack set in an overhanging wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wide flake crack to gain a right-facing corner. Using the left edge of the corner for layback holds, climb the wall on the left. An exciting little climb, which feels more independent than it actually is!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The Milestone Area
Crag : Creigiau'r Dena p 128
Date of ascent : 02/07/10
Route name : Scrawny Rib
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Anniversary Approach.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Anniversary Approach for 2 metres; before pulling directly up the steep rib above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Addawol
Length/grade/stars : 35m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The main feature of the lower buttresses is a pink slab with two heather stripes. 100 metres left of this slab are three slabby walls. The left-hand slab is protected by a steep wall both at the bottom and the top. Start at the left end of the steep wall below the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short fingery wall; step right and follow the left side of the slab to gain a ledge. Follow a slab up leftwards and continue up the rounded ribs above; finishing with pleasure up the final steeper rib.

Additional info:
The name means "promising".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Atal
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Addawol below the right end of the steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Make steep pulls up the right end of the steep wall using the obvious flake holds to gain the slab. Follow this more easily to below the upper steep wall. Escape leftwards down the heather.

Additional info:
The name means "to hinder".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Sol Slab
Length/grade/stars : 33m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Atal below a pocketed slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the pocketed slab and the easy-angled slabs above to gain the steepening. Make a tricky move through the steepening immediately left of an unhelpful thin crack; and follow the slabs to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Sol Trap
Length/grade/stars : 31m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Sol Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Wander up the easy-angled slabs to reach the steepening at a pointed flake. Stand on the flake and pull over rightwards; move up and finish up the rounded rib above and slightly left. A serious pitch!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Byrfyfyr
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the right end of a half-height heather terrace on the right-hand slabby wall; below a thin crack, 17 metres up and right of Sol Trap.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack and trend rightwards up the slab to finish. The scooped slab at the left end of this slabby wall is taken by Dim Anodd (12m Mod 030710); which can be used as a descent with care.

Additional info:
The names mean "impromptu" and "not hard"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Plinko
Length/grade/stars : 24m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
100 metres right of Byrfyfyr is the pink slab itself. Start 6 metres down and left of the pink slab at a more white-coloured slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the white slab and the brown slab above; until moves up a quartz gangway on the left gain belays on a rouded rib. Escape down the heather on the left!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Pink Un
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres up and right of Plinko on the pink slab and just left of the left-hand heather stripe. Descent: traverse right (looking in) and go down the heather.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab trending rightwards and pull through the steepening. Continue up the upper slab and move right to gain flake belays on a terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Dyffryn Mymbyr
Crag : Craig yr Haul Lower Buttresses p 29
Date of ascent : 03/07/10
Route name : Pink Two
Length/grade/stars : 22m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Pink Un, between the two heather stripes.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and pull through the steepening on the right. Continue up the upper slab to the flake belays on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : The Sub-Cneifion Rib p 220
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Transgression
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Immediately right of Sub-Cneifion Rib is a subsidiary buttress, now containing two worthwhile little climbs. Start 25 metres down and right od Sub Cneifion Rib on the right flank of this subsidiary buttress and 6 metres above its base; and below a tiny groove capped by an arched roof.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left and climb a short rib, then trend leftwards up a scoop; before finishing up a crackramp.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : The Sub-Cneifion Rib p 220
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Dilettante
Length/grade/stars : 21m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Transgression.

Pitch descriptions:
Pass the arched roof to its right and follow a ramp-line up the right sidewall of the buttress to an escape left at a flake. Climb a short corner and finish up a blunt rib which steepens near the top to give a delicate finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen p 222
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Varnishing Holds
Length/grade/stars : 30m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres down and right of Peredur at the lowest point of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the rib and the awkward short corner-groove above and right; before following the arête on the right of the deep groove. Ascend the final wall rightwards to finish up a thin crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen p 222
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Inarwg
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Spinal Crack at the foot of a slab facing down the valley.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slab slightly leftwards to an overlap; pull over this and the heather cornice above, and finish up the wall on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen p 222
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Snug as a Bug
Length/grade/stars : 17m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 18 metres up and right of Spinal Crack on the left flank of another impressive rounded buttress; below a niche.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to the niche, then step left to below a shallow groove. Climb the left rib of the shallow groove and the mercifully short wide crack above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 08/07/10
Route name : Slap on the Rouge
Length/grade/stars : 50m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the top of pitch 2 of Red Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
An exploration of the steeper ground above and left of the parent route. From the left end of the stance pull through the overhang at a white scoop and continue up the rib. Climb a steepening up and left and gain a grassy fault. Pull across the steep wall ahead and finish up the broad rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 02/08/10
Route name : Twll-y- Clo
Length/grade/stars : 50m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
90 metres right of Goat Slab at the same level and above and left of the awkward stream crossing on the main path a hidden, spiky, mottled slab slants up leftwards. Clearly seen on page 235 in the new guidebook. Start at the foot of a subsidiary slab just to its left.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the subsidiary slab for 8 metres; before trending rightwards to gain and follow the main slab on amazing rock to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 02/08/10
Route name : Llech Aur
Length/grade/stars : 36m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
100 metres up and right of Goat Slab is a brown slab seamed with cracks. Also well seen on p 235! Start towards the left side of the slab, below a pocketed slab at 12 metres; small cairn.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slanting cracks and the pocketed slab to finish up the cracks in the left side of the headwall.

Additional info:
The name means "golden slab".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 02/08/10
Route name : Trolley Song
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
25 metres down and LEFT of Llech Aur is a smaller grey buttress with tramline cracks in its upper part.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend rightwards up the buttress and finish up the right-hand of the tramline cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 02/08/10
Route name : Clang, Clang
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres up and right of Trolley Song on a heathery rake.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up leftwards to finish up the fine rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 02/08/10
Route name : Pawen
Length/grade/stars : 35m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres up and RIGHT of LLech Aur at a smoother section of slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the cracks up the smooth section of the slab; then continue direct to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 02/08/10
Route name : Gap
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres right of Open Heart below the wide crack between the blocks.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wide crack. Despite appearances it is possible to maintain a degree of elegance! The pocketed slab and wall immediately behind Gap gives the surprising Cow Udder (11m VD 02.08.10); with a steeper finish on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a thin crack and cross the traverse of The Arête. Move up rightwards and follow a shallow groove; before trending leftwards to reach a large scoop. Finish up the slab on the right. Good climbing, and marked in places!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant Ffrancon
Crag : Craig Blaen y Nant, the Forgotten Pillar p 316
Date of ascent : 04/08/10
Route name : Hafod Buttress
Length/grade/stars : 50m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
55 metres below and right of the Forgotten Pillar is a broad buttress whose top section becomes broken into short slabby walls. Start below this buttress. Descent:- carefully down the grassy gully on the left (looking in).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left edge of the buttress to a large block at its top; taking care with the rock in its upper section.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant Ffrancon
Crag : Craig Blaen y Nant, the Forgotten Pillar p 316
Date of ascent : 04/08/10
Route name : The Spear
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
70 metres down and right of Hafod Buttress and beyond a stepped ridge is a pinnacle. Start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall, then move right to gain the steep main face of the pinnacle. Climb this rightwards and continue up the summit block. 10 metres higher a rib and a shallow groove on the left flank of an overhanging prow give Spearmint (6m S 4b 04.08.10).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant Ffrancon
Crag : Craig Blaen y Nant, the Forgotten Pillar p 316
Date of ascent : 04/08/10
Route name : Diaphony
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
60 metres right of The Spear is the right-hand buttress; a white slab facing down the valley; guarded by a slanting roof at its base. Start below the slanting roof.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Make an interesting move over the left side of the slanting roof. Continue delicately up the blunt rib to reach the finishing terrace. Belays up to the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant Ffrancon
Crag : Craig Blaen y Nant, the Forgotten Pillar p 316
Date of ascent : 04/08/10
Route name : Diaphonous
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres down and right of Diaphony.

Pitch descriptions:
Move around the slanting roof on its right and continue up shallow grooves, slightly rightwards to reach the finishing terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Braich y Ddeugwm, Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75
Date of ascent : 07/08/10
Route name : Ptolemy
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
120 metres above Nemesis is the final buttress of the group. It is divided into two tiers by a heathery rake, from which protrude a profusion of horizontal rock spikes. Start at the right-hand end of the buttress below a scooped rib, guarded by a bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull over the bulge on its right side and follow the scoop in the rib to a ledge. Climb the crack above and its wider continuation, before finishing up a slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Braich y Ddeugwm, Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75
Date of ascent : 07/08/10
Route name : Pela
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of Ptolemy.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb an awkward block forming a spike and continue to the ledge. Follow the pleasant slab, between the cracks to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a subsidiary slab, then a steeper slab above, and finish direct.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Y Garn
Crag : N E Ridge p 308
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Pearl Fisher
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of the left-hand slanting crack. Descent:- the crampon-scratched, easy-angled rib on the left (looking in); or the damp gully on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab, past a flake-like sliver of rock at 3 metres; before finishing up less steep rock.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Y Garn
Crag : N E Ridge p 308
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Temple Saint
Length/grade/stars : 16m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of the right-hand slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a CLimb the slab into a broad scoop, pull out of this slightly to the left; before finishing up the shallow groove in the rib on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Y Garn
Crag : N E Ridge p 308
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Bizet Buttress
Length/grade/stars : 17m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Temple Saint.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the pockets rightwards to the arête, step left and continue up the arête to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Y Garn
Crag : N E Ridge p 308
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Pearl Popper
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
60 metres below and left of Au Fond is a rounded, pebbly craglet. Start at the foot of the facet facing Idwal Slabs.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the facet; spooky and speculative! Immediately left, the left side of the facet via the thin crack gives Imitation Pearl (6m VD 15.08.10)

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : East Wall p 236
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Crib
Length/grade/stars : 30m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
45 metres left of Ash Tree Wall and beyond the descent path is a stand-alone, pinnacle-like grey buttress; with a slabby front and a steep sidewall overlooking the gully on the right. Start below the centre of the slabby front of the buttress at a shallow corner just right of a smooth wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow corner and scramble up the heather to gain the headwall. Trend up and rightwards to reach the arête, and finish up this; exposed but straightforward.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Continuation Wall p 266
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Gaugamela
Length/grade/stars : 12m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres down and left of Invisible Thread below an arete.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Step off a block and climb the right-hand side of the arete for 2 metres; then make a tricky step left and hard pull to gain the arête proper. Follow the easier thin crack above and finish just to the left of a peculiar recress.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Continuation Wall p 266
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Parhad
Length/grade/stars : 23m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo) re-discovered!
Start location:
35 metres below and right of Invisible Thread is a buttress with an obvious central groove. Start at a crack directly below the central groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the crack and the right wall of the groove, before stepping into the groove to enjoy the crux moves at the top.

Additional info:
The rock is well-marked, the line strong and the climbing good! A mystery why it didn't make the guidebook. The name means "continuation"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Continuation Wall p 266
Date of ascent : 15/08/10
Route name : Pendroni
Length/grade/stars : 23m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Parhad.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move right and climb the awkward slabby wall; before following the arete on the right to an "impasse" near the top. Step 1 metre left and make a couple of reachy steep pulls to gain the top.

Additional info:
The name means "to ponder"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan p 85
Date of ascent : 16/08/10
Route name : The 39 Dimples
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
50 metres higher than Tryfan Bychan on the same scarp is a steeper slab. This time the cracks are more thinly spread and the routes, despite their modest size are tenuous! The main feature is a right-slanting grassy crack towards the left side of the slab. Start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step left and follow the slab to reach better holds in the thin crack, which leads to the top. The right-slanting grassy crack is John Bychan (11m S 16.08.10)

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan p 85
Date of ascent : 16/08/10
Route name : Chime Crack
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of The 39 Dimples at a thin, right-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the crack with interest.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan p 85
Date of ascent : 16/08/10
Route name : Tweedsmuir
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Chime Crack below a small square niche at 2 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the niche and finish up the inset slab above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Continuation Wall p 266
Date of ascent : 27/08/10
Route name : Palava
Length/grade/stars : 17m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
8 metres above and left of Lava Slab Left is another slab bordered by a vegetated corner on its right. Start on the grassy terrace 2 metres left of the vegetated corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend leftwards up a shallow crack for 7 metres, then continue directly up a vague rib; finishing to the right of a perched flake.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Continuation Wall p 266
Date of ascent : 27/08/10
Route name : Lava Bread
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Palava.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb directly up the pleasant slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Continuation Wall p 266
Date of ascent : 27/08/10
Route name : Lava Birds
Length/grade/stars : 18m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Lava Bread at the vegetated corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a From the block on the right, step onto the rib and follow a series of hidden, but recurring holds up the rib to a finish up a slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 27/08/10
Route name : Petryal
Length/grade/stars : 28m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Pawen at a very shallow rectangular recess.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the recess and continue up the delightful thin crack through a slight steepening; to a finish on the headwall just left of the small prow.

Additional info:
The name means "rectangle".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Buttress p 271
Date of ascent : 27/08/10
Route name : Ding, Ding
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3metres left of Clang, Clang.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the cracks rightwards to finish up the pleasant left-hand crack of the tramline.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr
Crag : Craig Rhug Bach p 46
Date of ascent : 28/08/10
Route name : Zit Alors
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of the slab of Cusquena from the terrace.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step right off a block and climb a rib to reach a wide crack with a steep wall to its right. Move up and climb the steep wall rightwards utilizing the pockets.

Additional info:
There are two look-alike crags in this vicinity; all the routes are on the upper one!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr
Crag : Craig Rhug Bach p 46
Date of ascent : 28/08/10
Route name : Big Heather
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start5 metres right of Zit Alors.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the flaky rib defining the right end of the crag.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr
Crag : Creigiau'r Gelli p 46
Date of ascent : 30/08/10
Route name : 40 Days
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
300 metres right of and at the same level of The Temptation of St Julitta, is a deceptively steep, rounded buttress, with a huge heather-covered ramp up to its left (GR 717 586). The main features are a slanting V-groove on its left-hand side; and a right to left rising gorse-filled rake. Start at the bottom right end of the rake.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the steep white wall to a shelf and finish direct.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr
Crag : Creigiau'r Gelli p 46
Date of ascent : 30/08/10
Route name : And Nights
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start one and a half metres left of 40 Days.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the rake and follow the pockets up to a higher break. Finish up the blunt rib above and slightly right. Another bold climb!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr
Crag : Creigiau'r Gelli p 46
Date of ascent : 30/08/10
Route name : Amble
Length/grade/stars : 10m M
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
100 metres left of And Nights a slabby arete rises behind a large silver birch tree; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble up the arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr
Crag : Creigiau'r Gelli p 46
Date of ascent : 30/08/10
Route name : Baptist Wall
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
15 metres right of the top of Amble is an attractive short wall; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall on pockets and edges.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr
Crag : Creigiau'r Gelli p 46
Date of ascent : 30/08/10
Route name : Awyr Las
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
25 metres above Baptist Wall is a tiered slab with a wide crack towards its right-hand end. Start just left of the wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the excellent slabby wall to a ledge; and finish with more pocket-pulling.

Additional info:
The name means "blue sky"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75
Date of ascent : 31/08/10
Route name : Idomeneo
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Ptolemy.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Make a stiff pull over the left side of the bulge and continue up the right side of the rib to a ledge. Finish up the thin crack in the arête above and left; nicely exposed.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75
Date of ascent : 31/08/10
Route name : The Midas Touch
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Pela at a striaited wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the wall to a large grass ledge. Finish up the seam, slightly leftwards in the next wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75
Date of ascent : 31/08/10
Route name : Cresus
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of The Midas Touch.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the rib; then follow the thin crack in the upper wall. Another pitch guaranteed to keep you on your toes!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75
Date of ascent : 31/08/10
Route name : The Hippo
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
20 metres below Idomeneo is a rocky hump with an undercut slabby front face. Start at the left corner of the slabby face.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Pull over onto the slab; and follow the pockets up to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf p 75
Date of ascent : 31/08/10
Route name : Mesopotamia
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
90 metres above and right of Terrestrial Variation, an attractive arete protrudes from the broken walls.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Far South Peak p 124
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Tywynnu
Length/grade/stars : 25m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Immediately North of the Far South Peak summit is a square buttress forming a companion summit. Its main feature is an attractive rib facing into Cwm Tryfan, with a striaited wall above and right. Start just right of this rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a slanting groove leftwards to gain the rib; then continue up its left side. Where it eases at 17 metres, move right along the grass ledge and climb the left side of the striaited wall to the top.

Additional info:
The name means "to shine"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Far South Peak p 124
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Lean To
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
On the SW flank of the summit rocks is a large leaning pinnacle forming a groove on its left. This area is clearly seen on the front cover of the new guidebook! Start at the foot of the groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the shelf below the groove by a strnuous pull and continue up the slabby right side of the groove to reach the top of the pinnacle. Finish up the arête above and left . Interesting and unusual.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen The East Face of Tryfan
Crag : Far South Peak p 124
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Retrogression
Length/grade/stars : 30m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
20 metres up and left of Progressive Cracks is a rectangular buttress enclosed by two heathery cracks, and with a square-cut roof on its right. There is also a small horizontal overlap at 4 metres. Start below this buttress on a ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rectangular buttress left-to-right; serious; then follow a groove on the left to reach a ledge. Continue up a rib and finish up a thin crack immediately right of a mossy crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach
Crag : Penglog Buttress p 162
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Skullduggery
Length/grade/stars : 23m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Firebird Ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the arête and slab above to gain the loose flake at the top of the initial crack of Firebird Ridge. Trend rightwards up the rib above to gain easier ground.

Additional info:
The best line on the crag and marked; and not in the book!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach
Crag : Penglog Buttress p 162
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Scouring Hillsides
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Brillo Pad.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Sketch up the slab with a difficult move to reach the shelf. Climb the slab above and right to gain the finishing terrace.

Additional info:
Direct Start added at 5b to Brillo Pad. But a rest was required on the break to the right to allow the toes to recover!!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach
Crag : Penglog Buttress p 162
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Tarian
Length/grade/stars : 13m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Scouring Hillsides

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the double slab; step right and finish up the thin crack.

Additional info:
The name means "shield".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach
Crag : Penglog Buttress p 162
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Tafell
Length/grade/stars : 13m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Tarian, below the right-hand rib of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rib and the right side of the blunt nose above to reach the finishing terrace.

Additional info:
The name means "slice".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Rhiwiau Caws p 251
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Moves Mountains
Length/grade/stars : 16m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Faith below a square recess at 4 metres guarded by a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb a short corner in the steep wall, step right, then left and pull up into the square recesss. Continue direct, climbing the right side of the rib above to reach the spike ledge on Faith. Either continue up or descend Faith.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Rhiwiau Caws p 251
Date of ascent : 01/09/10
Route name : Ffydd
Length/grade/stars : 65m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Faith. Two good, direct eliminate pitches.

Pitch descriptions:
1 25m Climb straight up the slab; the pockets pointing the way, and through the quartz plaques to reach the belay of p1 Faith. 2 40m Move up and left to gain the reddish slab and follow the right side of this, keeping to the left of the large heather patch. Near the top, move left and follow the narrow slab of Faith to reach the belay below Faith West Finish and a choice of finishes.

Additional info:
The name means "Faith".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 14/10/2010
Route name : Sarda Slab
Length/grade/stars : 25m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
75 metres above the outflow of Llyn Bochlwyd along the path to Bwlch Tryfan and a mere 4 metres from the path is a worthwhile little buttress. The main features are a slabby wall on the left with a small quartz band at 3 metres, and an escalator-like rib on the right. The climbs are pleasant on rough rock; but have a scramble in the middle! Start on a rock step at the foot of the slabby wall on the left of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall, past the quartz band, trending slightly rightwards, then follow the fine crack to reach easier ground. Scramble up and follow the left-trending flakes in the headwall to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 14/10/2010
Route name : Siwah
Length/grade/stars : 25m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Sarda Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the shallow groove and blunt rib above to easier ground. Finish up the groove in the rib above and right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 14/10/2010
Route name : Hesket Later
Length/grade/stars : 25m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres RIGHT of Sarda Slab below the escalator-like rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a little wall then amble up the rib to gain a quartz glacis on the right side of the headwall. Pull steeply up the flakes on the left, then finish up the rib on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Pelydr
Length/grade/stars : 13m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Approximately a half a kilometre left (East) of Penglog Buttress at a slightly higher level and 90 metres left of the main Bwlch Tryfan path is an intriguing buttress (OS Ref 661 589). It is identified by a slab, criss-crossed with cracks on its front face; whilst its right edge is marked by an outstanding arete forming a sidewall. Start 7 right of the extreme left edge of the buttress below a continuous rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib.

Additional info:
Thename means "ray".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Pafin
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Pelydr.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the brown-hued slab, with interest.

Additional info:
The name means "pavement".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Trugareddau
Length/grade/stars : 30m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 20 metres down and right of Pafin at the left-hand of two short ribs below and left of the criss-crossed slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left wall of the left-hand rib and continue up the thin, left-trending flake crack; before climbing the rib on the right to gain a large ledge. Start up the groove 3 metres left of the slabby groove of Bodlondeb, for 2 metres; then move left to finish up the slabby wall.

Additional info:
The name means "bits and pieces".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Bodlondeb
Length/grade/stars : 30m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Trugareddau.

Pitch descriptions:
Swarm up the right-hand and slenderest of the short ribs; before following the criss-crossed slab, firstly rightwards, then more directly to reach the large ledge. Finish up the slabby groove above.

Additional info:
The name means "satisfaction".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Bochlwyd
Crag : Glyder Fach p 162
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Afanc
Length/grade/stars : 33m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 30 metres above and right of Bodlondeb below a subsidiary rib left of the main outstanding arete.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull rightwards across a steep little wall and follow the scoop to gain the crest of the subsidiary rib. Climb rightwards along this to reach blocks just before the main arete. Make a wild, but avoidable swing rightwards on to the main arete and pull up to gain the easier upper section; finish up this.

Additional info:
The Afanc is a mythical beast roaming around the Welsh mountains! The route urgently needs a direct start up the bottom right wall (E23?).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Caws
Length/grade/stars : 22m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Immediately above and left of the main buttress is a slab, liberally sprinkled with quartz. The rock runs to good holds, but can be brittle! Start 6 metres left of the right edge of the slab at a slabby, heathery corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib just right of the corner to a ledge; step right and finish direct.

Additional info:
The name means "cheese".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Llefrith
Length/grade/stars : 25m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Caws.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the heathery corner, then move up leftwards to reach and climb the thin crack. Continue direct to finish up a series of cracks.

Additional info:
The name means "milk".

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Hufen
Length/grade/stars : 18m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres left of Llefrith on a heathery ledge below a steep, open groove with a crack in its back; gained by an exposed traverse.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the open groove and finish up the pocketed slab.

Additional info:
Yep you've guessed it, the name means "cream"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Eave-Ho
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Behind the top of Hufen is a smaller buttress with a left-slanting brown slab leading to eave-like roofs.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the left-slanting slab to a niche below the roofs. Pull over, using the blocks with care.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 17/10/2010
Route name : Pimple Crack
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres up and left of Eave-Ho, below a thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull into the crack and follow it to easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 15/11/2010
Route name : Aruthrol
Length/grade/stars : 9m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of Bwrdd Du.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right corner of the shallow recess and the wall directly above, via the smallest groove you'll ever see. The name says it all; terrific!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 15/11/2010
Route name : Trobwynt
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start half a metre right of Aruthrol.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall and short crack to gain the ledge by an awkward move. Finish up the rib above.

Additional info:
The name means "turning point"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 15/11/2010
Route name : Trwytho
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 12 metres right of Eave-Ho below a two-tier ridge defining the right edge of a broken wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the two-tier ridge.

Additional info:
The name means "to saturate"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 15/11/2010
Route name : Alarch
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start level with Aruthrol and 15 metres across the gully at a quartz band below a slender rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain and climb the left-trending slender rib to a ledge. Follow flake cracks above and slightly right to finish.

Additional info:
The name means "swan"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 15/11/2010
Route name : Adain
Length/grade/stars : 16m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Alarch.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Alarch for 2 metres, then cross the heather ledge to the right. Climb the quartz slab, and finish up its right edge.

Additional info:
The name means "wing"!

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up a short wall to gain the ledge; then follow flakes slightly leftwards to the top.

Additional info:
The name means "enjoy"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 09/11/2010
Route name : Bwrdd Du
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Mwynhau.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the left corner of the shallow recess; and finish up the less obvious holds directly above.

Additional info:
The name means "blackboard"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 09/11/2010
Route name : Arllwys
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Bwrdd Du.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off a block and move up and leftwards into a vague scoop; finish direct.

Additional info:
The name means "to pour"! Note:- These last three routes have been re-submitted as they appear to have been lost in the ether! Web Manager apology!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 21/01/2011
Route name : Sleigh Ride
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
16 metres right of Hesket Later is another laid back buttress; with a corner groove on its left and a layback flake on its right. Start below and just left of the corner groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short wall and rib above. The corner groove itself is Laking (7m VD).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 21/01/2011
Route name : Plaid
Length/grade/stars : 10m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of the corner groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant arête and short rib above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 21/01/2011
Route name : Laid Back
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Plaid below the left-trending layback flake.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the layback flake. A good introduction to the delights of laybacking! The disappearing flake 1m right gives Flake Out (5m S 4b). Whilst the excellent, marked slab just right is Slake (4m S 4c).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 26/01/2011
Route name : Portia
Length/grade/stars : 9m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
50 metres right of Aruthrol, past a quartz slab and finger stone, a hidden, broad gully slants up leftwards into the wide ridge above the main crag.It is enclosed by two sidewalls. The left (sunny) wall comprises a series of short walls; whose main feature is a curving roof, located approximately where the broad gully changes from grass to a boulder field. Start 12 metres below and left of the curving roof, below an attractive arête rising from a large ledge at 4 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the large ledge by climbing a short groove below its left side, and passing its capping bulge on its left. Follow the attractive arête on the right direct.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 26/01/2011
Route name : Capulet Crack
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of the curving roof below a steep crack line.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the opposing flakes forming the crack line, steeply.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 26/01/2011
Route name : Winter Discontent
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Montague Rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the awkward ramp up rightwards and gain the large ledge. The two-tier arete on the right leads to the top after a technical start.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 26/01/2011
Route name : The Breach
Length/grade/stars : 15m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Winter Discontent.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-slanting blocky groove to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 26/01/2011
Route name : Montague Rib
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Capulet Crack, below a fine rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the right-hand side of the rib; stepping up daintily left to gain a small ledge on the rib itself, very classy! The crack immediately right proves to be of an awkward width Friar (6m S 26.01.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Titania
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
35 metres below and left of Portia, near the bottom of the broad gully is a small, conglomorate wall with a mossy scoop on its left and a thin crack in its centre. Start below the thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack. The wall immediately right via the alcove near the top is Bottom (6m S 4b 28.01.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Goneril
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres right of Portia and 4 metres left of the curving roof, below a rather grubby V-groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the V-groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Regan
Length/grade/stars : 9m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Goneril, at a rightward-sloping ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the left-hand end of the ramp and climb the steep wall to reach the ledge up and left. Pull directly through the small overlap to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Cordelia
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Regan.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the ramp rightwards and overcome the left-hand side of the curving roof by a reckless layback. Finish up a short groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Cawdor
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The right (shady) wall of the broad gully is sterner! Towards its lower right-hand end is a left-sloping ramp opposite a large flat boulder; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the ramp to a ledge below a short, but steep wall. Haul up the wall, and finish up the crack and rib on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Prospero
Length/grade/stars : 16m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
80 metres left of the buttress containing Sarda Slab is a crag with an undercut arete towards its left side above quartz-fringed blocks. To the right a leaning pinnacle is an obvious feature. Start 11 metres around and up left of the undercut arete below a striking arete rising from a large ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a slabby rib to gain the ledge. Move right to reach the stiking arête and follow its right-hand side all the way to the top; a little gem!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Ariel
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres down and right of Prospero below a line of flake holds at 2 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step off the small pedestal and pull steeply up the flake holds to gain a ledge. Step right and climb the corner and slabby wall above to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Crazy Old World
Length/grade/stars : 20m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Ariel on a quartz-fringed block below the undercut arête.

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across and follow a flake to the undercut. Step left, pull up, then move right above the undercut. Follow the fine, shallow groove in the right side of the arête above and slightly left; to finish up the slabby wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Yorick
Length/grade/stars : 26m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Crazy Old World atop another quartz-fringed block below a triangular alcove.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the rising crack line rightwards and move up a short slab to gain a heathery ledge (keeping well away from the menacing blocks on the right!). Amble up the slab rightwards to finish.

Submitted by : Barrry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Caliban
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of Yorick at the right flank of the leaning pinnacle and immediately left of a short boulder-filled gully.

Pitch descriptions:
1 10m Step up on sloping holds and scramble up to the summit of the pinnacle. A descent (crux) down a short crack leads to the top of the gully. 2 13m Scramble up the slab above, to finish up a small corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Glyder Fach p 162
Crag : Cwm Bochlwyd
Date of ascent : 28/01/2011
Route name : Falstaff
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Caliban across the gully.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby corner and the pleasant thin cracks in the slab above. Starting 3 metres right, the heathery crack line gives Merry Wives (13m VD 28.01.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 18/02/2011
Route name : Hyfryd
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Arllwys.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the small corner and finish up the straightforward slab.

Additional info:
The name means "pleasant"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 18/02/2011
Route name : Eave-Two
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Pimple Crack, at a recess leading to a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the base of the wide crack, make a move up it, then step right onto the rib. Finish up the slab to the left of the eaves.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 18/02/2011
Route name : Jac-Y-Do
Length/grade/stars : 15m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Alarch.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up, then traverse right for 2 metres. Follow the rib immediately left of the quartz slab of Adain, and gain a block ledge on the left. Finish up the slab above.

Additional info:
The name means "jackdaw"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 18/02/2011
Route name : Juliet's Balcony
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Capulet Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the head-height ledge and follow a small groove to a line of flake holds. Follow these leftwards to gain an exposed ledge above the curving roof; from where a flake crack leads to the top. A fine little pitch!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 18/02/2011
Route name : Half-Monty
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Montague Rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall direct. In view of the appalling landing, a side runner in Friar may be prudent!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd p 157
Date of ascent : 18/02/2011
Route name : St Crispin's Day
Length/grade/stars : 12m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately LEFT of Winter Discontent, at a right-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right-slanting crack to the large ledge. Finish up the eliminate wall just left of the arête of Winter Discontent.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf (p 75)
Date of ascent : 25/03/2011
Route name : Persepolis
Length/grade/stars : 20m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Pony, across the gully on the right flank of a broad, rounded rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a finger traverse leftwards from just above the base of the gully, and follow the front face of the rib to reach a terrace. Climb the fine, thin crack above to finish on its left arête and so gain easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf (p 75)
Date of ascent : 25/03/2011
Route name : Goat Track
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres left of Persepolis.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-slanting brown slab, and the slab above and right to reach a roof; which is overcome pleasantly on its right. Continue up ledgy slabs and through an overlap to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)
Date of ascent : 06/04/2011
Route name : Hudol
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifteen metres above and right of A5 is a pleasant unpolished buttress. Just left of its central heathery break are twin, slim smooth grooves; start below these.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a slab, and continue up the grooves, mainly using the right-hand one, to a finish up the slab.

Additional info:
The name means "enchanting"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)
Date of ascent : 06/04/2011
Route name : Hwb
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Hudol at a roofed recess.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Gain the recess and pull through the roof, continue up the thin cracks to gain a sloping ledge on the left. Climb the delectable headwall just left of the thin crack.

Additional info:
The name means "push"!

Submitted by : Barry CLarke
Area : Ogwen Braich y Ddeugwm
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)
Date of ascent : 06/04/2011
Route name : Gwyntog
Length/grade/stars : 9m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Hwb.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the blocks and finish up the arête on the right.

Additional info:
The name means "windy"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 10/04/2011
Route name : Geeky Gangway
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Nerd Corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Start up Nerd Corner, move up then left onto the slim gangway. Follow this pleasantly to reach the descent corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 10/04/2011
Route name : Fllech
Length/grade/stars : 45m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Zig-Zag, on a higher ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
1 23m Climb the white-flecked slab to the left end of the overlap. Continue up the rib and the small slab above to a stance. 2 22m Move left to a boss-like foothold, and climb the smooth slab above and right. Continue to the top, keeping left of the easy arete.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 10/04/2011
Route name : In Tents
Length/grade/stars : 22m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Fllech.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rather intense (for Little Tryfan!) bald slab via the offset, micro-thin cracks to reach the right end of the overlap. Pull over and follow the right side of the slab to reach heather and the descent path.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Slabs (p 251)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Esperanza
Length/grade/stars : 21m S
Climbers : Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Slabs Eliminate.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short corner and follow a thin, left-slanting crack (marked). Where Hope joins and trends left; step daintily right and follow a shallow crack to a belay beneath the Twin Cracks.

Additional info:
The name is Spanish for Hope!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Idwal Slabs and Walls
Crag : Idwal Slabs (p 251)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Marienkadenz
Length/grade/stars : 24m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the right side of the quartz slab (the right-hand start of Hope), and 5 metres left of Moves Mountains.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short slab and step right across the damp break. Follow the left side of the facet slab above to gain a small ledge below a conspicuous white rib. Climb the white rib slightly on its right side and a crampon-scratched groove above to reach the first stance of Faith.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen (p 222)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Israddol
Length/grade/stars : 30m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty metres above and right of Snug as a Bug is a brown, crinkly whaleback slab; with a subsidiary, slender rib and slab below and left. Start at the very foot of the slender rib and slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib to a steepening. Overcome this by a crack on the left and finish up the slab above.

Additional info:
The name means "inferior"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen (p 222)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Igam-Ogam
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 15 metres up and left of Israddol, on the sidewall of the rib, just left of a vegetated crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb past the square blob to gain a ramp, which is followed leftwards for 4 metres to an awkward finish up a crack.

Additional info:
The name means "zig-zag"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen (p 222)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Teg
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Thirty metres left (looking in) of Igam Ogam and at the same level; is a beautiful slabby wall riven by a crack. This is in fact the top right flank of Craig y Cerddinen, Upper!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the fine crack and finish up the slab on the right.

Additional info:
The name means "beautiful"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen (p 222)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Iasol
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Teg.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Pull up onto the wall awkwardly, move up; then make a precarious step up left to reach an easier crack and groove.

Additional info:
The name means "thrilling"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen (p 222)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Hapchwarae
Length/grade/stars : 35m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 17 metres above and RIGHT of Israddol at the foot of the brown whaleback slab; best gained by starting up Israddol.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the the brittle holds on the left side of the blunt rib, and finish up the slabs.

Additional info:
The name means " a game of chance"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen (p 222)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Snapplespike
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Hapchwarae below the steep sidewall of the whaleback slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the strenuous rightwards rising line across the sidewall for 8 metres; before pulling up and left onto the slab with relief. Finish up the right side of the slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig y Cerddinen (p 222)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2011
Route name : Alborada
Length/grade/stars : 14m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Ten metres below and right of Snapplespike is a short, dome-shaped buttress. Start at the foot of the arete of this buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make tricky moves up the left side of the arete and finish up the easing slab above. The pinnacle flake and short wall above, 5 metres right give an awkward tussle Graciosa (10m S 02.05.11).

Additional info:
Alborada means "dawn song"! Graciosa means "jester"! (Both Spanish).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : The Sub-Cneifion Rib (p 220)
Date of ascent : 04/05/2011
Route name : Hirgrwn
Length/grade/stars : 18m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Ten metres below and right of Scimitar Crack a quartz block marks the start of a grass terrace. Start 3 metres along the terrace below a slim groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slim groove, step right and follow the pleasant slab to a grassy recess at the foot of the left-hand rib of p2 of Sub-Cneifion Rib.

Additional info:
The name means "oval"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : The Sub-Cneifion Rib (p 220)
Date of ascent : 04/05/2011
Route name : Gofod
Length/grade/stars : 30m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start below the undercut nose at the start of p3 of the Sub-Cneifion Rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b A thin crack splits the overlap just left of the nose. Climb a slab to the overlap, step left, and gain the thin crack above the overlap by a cunning move rightwards. Follow the crack for 5 metres, before gaining the top of the hollow flake on the left. Continue up the left side of the arête to eventually reach and follow the top section of the Sub-Cneifion Rib.

Additional info:
The name means "space"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Cwm Cneifion
Crag : The Sub-Cneifion Rib (p 220)
Date of ascent : 04/05/2011
Route name : Herwhela
Length/grade/stars : 21m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Pickpocket.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up, then keep right to follow the right side of the slab. At the steepening, step left and move up to a ledge. Finish up the short slab on the left. Take some thin slings!

Additional info:
The name means "to poach"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Lechau Cneifion (p 224)
Date of ascent : 04/05/2011
Route name : Peren
Length/grade/stars : 35m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty-five metres above and left of Crognant is another area of slabs, shorter but cleaner. The main features are a sweep of slabs on the left, leading to a steepening at 25 metres. To the right a dark groove with a prominent large undercut hold at 10 metres is obvious. Start at the left side of the sweep of slabs, above and left of a rock outcrop in the heather.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the blunt rib and the shallow groove in the steepening; keeping 1 metre right of the bounding arête. Finish up the slabs.

Additional info:
The name means "pear"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Lechau Cneifion (p 224)
Date of ascent : 04/05/2011
Route name : Tyllog
Length/grade/stars : 40m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres down and right of Peren, and opposite the rock outcrop.

Pitch descriptions:
CLimb the bubbly rib and the left rib of a short right-facing corner above. Continue up the central depression in the steepening and the slabs above.

Additional info:
Thw name means "full of holes"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Lechau Cneifion (p 224)
Date of ascent : 04/05/2011
Route name : Y DDraig Ddu
Length/grade/stars : 50m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres down and right of Tyllog at a scoop.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up rightwards to gain the large undercut hold in the dark groove. Follow the flake crack on the left and continue to the steepening. Overcome this using a thin flake in the dark shallow groove, and finish up the scalloped slabs on the right; good climbing!

Additional info:
The name means "the black dragon"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Lechau Cneifion (p 224)
Date of ascent : 04/05/2011
Route name : Dragonwyck
Length/grade/stars : 70m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres below and right of Y Ddraig Ddu at a gentle rib leading to a bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
1 40m 4b Trend leftwards up the rib and climb the bulge via the small groove on its right. Continue up the pillar to gain a scooped ledge below a smooth impending wall. Move rightwards up a ramp and climb a delicate slab to reach a right-slanting break. Move right along the break for 3 metres; then pull up a steep wall on rounded holds to reach a small ledge up and left (smallmedium cam belays). 2 30m Follow the slabs above and slightly left to finish. A great climb, with a hint of seriousness!

Additional info:
On reflection, this route may cover much the same ground as Maen Chwyth; but in the absence of a complete description and having no reference in the First Ascents list, it is hard to be sure! One thing is certain however, this is a fine pillar of amazing rock!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 27/05/2011
Route name : Noodle
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
One hundred and thirty metres above and right of the main slabs, and just opposite where the path veers rightwards towards the gully used on the approach to Heather Terrace; is a steep little slab riven by thin, right-slanting cracks. Start at the left side of the slab, atop a subsidiary slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant slab, finishing just to the left of the shallow crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 27/05/2011
Route name : Nodular Slab
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Noodle.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab, keeping immediately right of the thin, right-slanting crack. Near the top, the rib on the left of the crack gives a nice finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 27/05/2011
Route name : Doodle
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifteen metres LEFT of Noodle the slab system terminates at an easy-angled rib; start at its base.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib to a small ledge, step right and finish up the right side of the rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Nod and a Wink
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start one and a half metres right of Nodular Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slab and follow the tufted cracks to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bach (p 82)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Nodal Range
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Nod and a Wink.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the blanker slab and follow the cracks above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Florestan
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty metres above Tweedsmuir on the same scarp (and 40 metres right of Nodular Slab) is a fine slabby buttress with a shallow circular recess near its top. Start on the left side of the buttress on top of a square flake.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and finish up the rounded ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Leonore
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Florestan.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Scratch up the slab and continue up the exciting upper section, keeping left of the circular recess.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Papageno
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start one and a half metres right of Leonore.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain and climb the short, brown, left-facing groove to the circular recess, and finish direct.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Calaf Crack
Length/grade/stars : 9m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Papageno at a thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin crack and groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Scaramuccio
Length/grade/stars : 8m HVS
Climbers : BJ Claeke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Calaf Crack on a higher grass ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
5b Climb the slab for 3 metres, then pull leftwards across the heather-choked crack to gain a foothold below the bulge. Pull through the bulge at the flakes and continue nervously to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 31/05/2011
Route name : Ferrando
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Scaramuccio, at a slabby wall with a ledge at two-thirds height.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the left side of the slabby wall and move right to gain the ledge. Step right for 2 metres, and climb the dainty upper slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 03/06/2011
Route name : Illya
Length/grade/stars : 22m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
From where the stone wall rising up from Bwlch Tryfan hits the main mass; cross the stile and scramble up rightwards for 45 metres to reach a wide gully (which forms a Direct Start to Bristly Ridge for the more intrepid scramblers!). Start below the left wall of the gully.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to a crack, then step right and follow the shallow grooves up the right side of the wall to gain a ledge with a large block on its left. Swarm up the crack formed by the block (trying not to pull too hard!); and climb a short wall to a terrace. The descent gully is easily reached to the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 03/06/2011
Route name : Dioclesian Rib
Length/grade/stars : 37m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start below the quartz-studded right rib of the gully.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib to easier ground, and make a tricky traverse left into the gully for the descent.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 03/06/2011
Route name : Permennion
Length/grade/stars : 25m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Thirty-five metres down and right of Dioclesian Rib is a buttress, comprising slabs and ribs and the occasional impending wall. Start towards the left side of the buttress below an attractive slabby rib; cairn! Descent: Follow a vague path right (looking in) for 25 metres, then descend easier rocks.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain, then climb the right side of the rib, then the rib itself to stacked flakes. Avoid the short steep wall above by climbing the scoop on the right to easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 03/06/2011
Route name : Mace Donor
Length/grade/stars : 25m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 14 metres right of Permennion at a rib, just right of a grassy amphitheatre.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib to the top of a huge flake. Continue up the pleasant, left-trending groove line in the slab; before finishing up the ridiculously juggy cracks above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 03/06/2011
Route name : Hwiangerdd
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Brillo Pad, at a thin crack in the right side of a slabby pillar.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack to a ledge, step right and finish up a rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Rubber Dub
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Brillo Pad below a thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step up into the crescent-shaped scoop and climb the slab, keeping just left of the thin crack. At the flake handrail, step right and finish up the continuation crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Cylch
Length/grade/stars : 17m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 14 metres left of Hwiangerdd, at a lower level, below a small circular recess 11 metres up.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wet slabs and continue past the recess to the top.

Additional info:
Hwiangerdd means "lullaby!" Cylch means "circle!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Piler Dewi Sant
Length/grade/stars : 15m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres up and left of Cylch below an attractive pillar.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the pillar directly; the tufa feature being useful for the right hand. Superb, elegant climbing!

Additional info:
The name means "St. David's Pillar!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Gwydr
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres above and left of Piler Dewi Sant at a corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up, then follow the shelf rightwards to gain a standing position on a rounded ledge. Climb two successive corners to the top.

Additional info:
The name means "glass!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Camau
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Gwydr.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step left and follow the stepped inset wall.

Additional info:
The name means "steps!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Gwawr
Length/grade/stars : 9m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Camau between two cracks in the centre of an enticing square wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull up onto the wall and climb it directly; passing a sloping ledge and taking care with the wafer-thin flake on the right near the top.

Additional info:
The name means "dawn!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Culhau
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Gwawr at the left-hand crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the narowing crack.

Additional info:
The name means "narrowing!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Penbleth
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Culhau.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Make a tricky start just right of the left arête of the wall, and finish up the wall above. The corner groove just left gives a good tussle Bythwyrdd ( 8m S 4b 04.06.11).

Additional info:
Penbleth means "confusing!" Bythwyrdd means "evergreen!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Hawdd
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Immediately below Rubber Dub, is a buttress with a steep prow sticking out in its centre. Start 5 metres down and right of the prow at a line of thin cracks in a stepped wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the juggy thin cracks to a trickier final section.

Additional info:
The name means "easy!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Bwtres Hedfan
Length/grade/stars : 17m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Hawdd.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the slab and step left into a niche right of the prow and above its base. Make a bold step left onto the front of the prow, and continue delicately up its left edge; before a rough, quartz slab leads to the top.

Additional info:
The name means "flying buttress!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 04/06/2011
Route name : Turio
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres above and left of Bwtres Hedfan, below a V-groove just left of the prow.

Pitch descriptions:
Enter the V-groove awkwardly and continue upwards. Ignore the easier ground ahead and finish up the flake crack on the right.

Additional info:
The name means "to burrow!"

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : Hermion
Length/grade/stars : 22m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 11 metres right of Permennion below a sweep of slabs leading to an impending wall at 10 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a scoop, step right, then follow the slabs up leftwards below the impending wall to reach a large recess. Continue up the cracks in the back wall of the recess; trending leftwards to utilize the most secure flakes.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : Dionysius
Length/grade/stars : 18m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Mace Donor at a higher level.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up to a flake, hand traverse this rightwards and pull up into a scoop. Move up, then follow cracks in the rib on the right to finish. Pleasant climbing throughout!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : Clytus
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty-five metres around and right of Dionysius on a higher terrace is a short, blade-like buttress; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the flat quartz-topped block and climb the left side of the right arête of the buttress.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : Pleitus
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Clytus below a small rectangular roof and just left of a remarkable thread formed by a jammed quartz block.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through the left end of the roof and follow the line of a thin crack; before finishing up the short walls above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : Intro
Length/grade/stars : 42m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo) Re-discovered
Start location:
Twelve metres below Mace Donor is the rounded top of a long ridge. The ridge is rather rambling, but it does support a steep sidewall on the left. Start at the left toe of the ridge, just right of two blocks.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up on flakes and continue up the ridge. Climb the left-slanting crack formed by a large block and move up to the steeper headwall. This is Severe if climbed direct! Above, climb more easily to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : Prelude
Length/grade/stars : 40m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Intro.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the square recess and follow slabs and grooves on the right. Bridge up behind the large blocks and finish up two short aretes on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : JKC
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Eighteen metres up the gully left of Intro is an offwidth crack formed by a huge leaning flake. Start a further 3 metres up the gully below a curving groove with a bulge at 4 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the groove and pass the bulge to its right. Continue up to the large roof; before moving right and pulling up onto a sloping ledge. Step right, then up and left to above the roof. Finish up the slabby rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 06/06/2011
Route name : Kershaw Crack
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres above and left of JKC at a V-groove with an obvious, wide flake crack branching rightwards out of it.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the V-groove; then step right and follow the flake crack to a finish up a slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 09/06/2011
Route name : Munchkin One
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Edgekin Too.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the shelves rightwards to the arête. Swing up left to a small ledge and climb the arête to the top. Very artificial and quite bold! The pleasant striaited wall 3 metres right of the arete gives Munchkin Two (6m VD 09.06.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 09/06/2011
Route name : Clara Bow
Length/grade/stars : 22m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Eight metres up and left of Arête Climb is a buttress with a crevasse forming its left side. Start at a short rib just right of the crevasse.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the short rib, step left and follow the left side of the arete; before trending leftwards via a thin crack to gain a large ledge. Climb the rib on the right, then finish up a short brittle wall.

Additional info:
Exploration in this area has highlighted a couple of photo-topo howlers! On page 114, the photo has Overlapping Rib Route and Pinnacle Rib Route the wrong way round! On page 122, the routes Apex Route, Crackerjack and Gashed Crag are shown starting up a chossy buttress which is in fact below Heather Terrace. Whereas the routes all start from the Heather Terrace!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 14/06/2011
Route name : Hooray for Hannay
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of The 39 Dimples.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the slab via the slots; until the judicious use of John Bychan gains the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 14/06/2011
Route name : One Horse
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Chime Crack at a thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the thin crack until it fades. Continue boldly, then use holds in the vegetated crack to gain a more relaxed finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Tryfan Bychan (p 85)
Date of ascent : 14/06/2011
Route name : Harris
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Tweedsmuir.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the slab, first right, then leftwards.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to a niche in the left side of the ridge. Step right and follow cracks in the crest to gain a sloping ledge. Follow the wide, shallow groove and rib above to a junction with Overlapping Rib Route.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 30/06/2011
Route name : Thane
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Cawdor at a rectangular block.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step off the block and climb the wall rightwards. Haul up the steep wall (as for Cawdor), before traversing leftwards along the flakes to a finish up the wide crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 30/06/2011
Route name : Birnam Wood
Length/grade/stars : 18m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres left of Thane at a small rounded wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rounded wall and move up and rightwards into an overhung niche. Exit this on the left and continue to behind the pinnacle. Bridge up using the pinnacle and finish up the crack in the back wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 30/06/2011
Route name : In Love
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately left of Goneril.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the left side of the arête until standing in the break. Step left and up to hidden flake holds which lead to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 30/06/2011
Route name : Lear King
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Goneril.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Gain the break, and hand traverse this leftwards, with an urgent finish up the scoop.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 04/07/2011
Route name : Carillion
Length/grade/stars : 23m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start location:
Start immediately left of North Buttress Route below an attractive rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb past the letters "NB", then follow the left side of the rib for 18 metres to a small roof. Step left, and make a high step up, before moving right to better holds. Climb the slab and wide crack above to join North Buttress Route. Neat and elegant, but with spaced protection!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 11/07/2011
Route name : Bardic
Length/grade/stars : 28m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The right-hand sidewall of the main crag is broken by breaks into three tiers. The bottom tier is blocky and flaky; the routes climbed so far are on the golden rock of the middle and top tiers. Start 35 metres around and up right of Arête and Slab at a good spike below a heathery ramp slanting up rightwards below the smooth middle tier. A sweep of quartz slabs start just to the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the rib above the spike, then follow the heathery ramp rightwards until near its end. Climb through a small roof by the crack and continue to the break separating the middle and top tier (optional belay). Step right and follow the awkward shallow groove and finish up the wall above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 11/07/2011
Route name : Golden Sonnet
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 11 metres above and right of Bardic on a gangway slab below and just right of the crack and roof of Bardic.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short flake crack to the ramp and pull through the roof as for Bardic. Move up, then tiptoe left along a tiny ramp; before extending up and slightly rightwards to reach flakes which lead to the top. A good little climb!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 11/07/2011
Route name : Laertes
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres above and right of Golden Sonnet below a heather ledge at head-height on the top tier.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the ledge and move up to good holds. Follow the pleasant leftwards-rising line across the wall to the top. Start as for Laertes and continuing direct up the twin grooves above gives Polonius (10m VD 11.07.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 11/07/2011
Route name : Troillus
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Laertes.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the ledge, then move diagonally rightwards across the brown ramp (harder than it looks!), to gain and finish up a groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Clogwyn Bochlwyd (p 157)
Date of ascent : 11/07/2011
Route name : Cressida
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Troillus on a block.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb a steep wall and pull leftwards around the bulge to gain the groove of Troillus. Step right and follow the arête to reach the descent steps.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)
Date of ascent : 24/07/2011
Route name : Bubble Wrap
Length/grade/stars : 16m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
One hundred metres above and behind Idwal Cottage Crag at the head of its own tiny cwm is a small crag; comprising a grey slabby wall on its right and a white wall up and left. Start at the toe of the grey slabby wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up, then follow the ramp up leftwards. Use the cracks above and right to gain another left-slanting ramp. Up this; before following a crack rightwards and so gain the top. Sustained, beautiful climbing!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)
Date of ascent : 24/07/2011
Route name : Gummed
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Bubble Wrap.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the thin crackline leftwards to a small roof. Step right and climb another crack to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)
Date of ascent : 24/07/2011
Route name : Palor
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the centre of the white wall, 2 metres right of the arête, and 8 metres up and left of Gummed.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall to a ledge, then step left and finish up the arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Idwal Cottage Crag (p 315)
Date of ascent : 24/07/2011
Route name : Paleface
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Palor.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack, then follow the cracks in the steeper headwall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig Nant Bach (p 78)
Date of ascent : 15/08/2011
Route name : Les Chamoisettes
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Two hundred and twenty metres SE of Craig Nant Bach, at a higher level and on the opposite side of the cwm and clearly seen; is a clean attractive buttress marked by a slabby nose (O S Ref 673 592). Start below and just left of the slabby nose.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards to the nose and follow it to the top. Fine climbing on a remarkable collection of slots, pockets and flakes!

Additional info:
Locating Craig Nant Bach is difficult; it is well hidden from the usual approaches! It rises directly from the main stream draining the cwm, and 60 metres right of the prominent dark, almost flat, slab in the bottom of the cwm.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig Nant Bach (p 78)
Date of ascent : 15/08/2011
Route name : Eland
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Les Chamoisettes.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the central corner system to the small roof. Move right and finish up the arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig Nant Bach (p 78)
Date of ascent : 15/08/2011
Route name : White Art
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Eland.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the pockets up the wall just right of the arête to a ledge and finish up the shallow corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig Nant Bach (p 78)
Date of ascent : 15/08/2011
Route name : Gazelle
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of White Art.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slender pillar, and make good use of the ramp on the left when the slots disappear.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craog Nant Bach (p 78)
Date of ascent : 15/08/2011
Route name : Antelope
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres up and left of Gazelle at a grassy gully.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin crack in the rib on the right to a small ledge. Follow the fine brown slab and the easier slab above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (P 162)
Date of ascent : 19/08/2011
Route name : Angelita
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Directly below Penbleth is the top of a large, quartz-marked, easy-angled slab. This slab is bordered to its right (looking out) by a wide grass and boulder gully. The right-hand (still looking out) sidewall of the gully contains an attractive sharp arête; start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the obvious ledge, then layback the left side of the sharp arête.

Additional info:
The right-hand side of the arête and the crackseam just right will be totally different propositions! Go for them!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 19/08/2011
Route name : Tywodlyd
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Angelita.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb a subsidiary slab to a ledge. Then follow the "snappy" back wall; first on its right side, then on its left.

Additional info:
The name means "sandy"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 19/08/2011
Route name : Henaidd
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Tywodlyd on a glacis.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Romp up the pleasant rib to a thinner finish up the groove in the arête. Finishing up the slabby groove just right makes the whole route VD!

Additional info:
The name means "old-fashioned"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 19/08/2011
Route name : Oes Haearn
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite Angelita on the far side of the gully is an arête and groove with an obvious snaking crackline; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the groove, step left and follow the right-hand side of the arête to a finish up a thin-finger groove, excellent!

Additional info:
The name means "iron age"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 20/08/2011
Route name : Cymbeline
Length/grade/stars : 23m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of Quarter Gully. Descent:- down Quarter Gully to the left (looking in).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a wide crack on the right for 3 metres, step right and follow a shallow groove just left of the rib. Continue up the wide crack and the slab on its left to below the headwall. Finish up the centre of the headwall; fine and rather bold!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Amynedd
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Thirty-five metres left of Angelita is a round buttress with a ramp on its left-hand side and a curving crack in its centre. Start 2 metres right of the curving crack below a small sloping ledge at 1 metre.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Somehow gain the sloping ledge and finish up the fine shallow groove above.

Additional info:
The name means "patience"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Saracen Crack
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Amynedd.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the curving crack, using the flakes on the left with care! The ramp just left is pleasant Skimmer (12m D 02.09.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Pedrongl
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty metres left of Saracen Crack is a crag with many groove lines, and a mere 50 metres from the main Bwlch Tryfan path. Towards its right side is a rectangular wall with vertical crack lines and guarded by two flakes at its base. Start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the larger, left-hand flake and follow the thin cracks up the centre of the wall.

Additional info:
The name means "quadrangle"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach ( p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Chwith
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ CLarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Pedrongl.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the wall; very pleasant!

Additional info:
The name means "left"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Eironi
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Chwith.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the narrow left-trending rampline; and finish directly up the steep headwall.

Additional info:
The name means "irony"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Godidog
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres left of Eironi below the right side of the main wall of the crag.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up rightwards to a niche formed by a rock scar. Step up, then move left up a short flake to a tiny ledge below the headwall. Climb this direct and pull over the block at the top.

Additional info:
The name means "spendid"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Cannwyll
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Godidog.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right-facing corner formed by a small pillar and move up left to the top of the pillar. Follow the wider pillar to the top.

Additional info:
The name means "candle"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Tynged
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Cannwyll, at an attractive rounded arête with a thin crack on its right side.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step off a small pinnacle and move up to reach the thin crack. Climb this on poor finger-locks, but better finishing holds to gain easier ground and the top.

Additional info:
The name means "destiny"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 02/09/2011
Route name : Cefnen
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twelve metres left of Tynged, past a recess containing many rounded crack lines, the crag ends at a ridge. Start below the left flank of the ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left flank of the ridge, step right and pull through the steepening at 5 metres. Scramble pleasantly up the ridge to the top.

Additional info:
The name means "ridge"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 09/09/2011
Route name : Columnar Grooves
Length/grade/stars : 30m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres up Bastow Gully on a large ledge on the right with a low roof.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain a ledge up and left; then step boldly right to a thin crack. Move right again to reach the main crackline and welcome protection, follow this to a crevassed ledge. Move up right and follow the main groove line to a ledge. Climb rightwards to a wide crack in a groove. Move up, then escape rightwards to easier ground and the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig y Ffridd (p 70)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : Putroon
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty-five metres below and right of Essence is a less-steep buttress. Start towards its left side on top of a large block below an inset slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the inset slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig y Ffridd (p 70)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : Ariadne
Length/grade/stars : 17m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres right of Putroon below a fine-looking rouded arête.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the face of a small buttress, then thread your way up the thin cracks running up the left flank of the rounded arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig y Ffridd (p 70)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : Meadow King
Length/grade/stars : 17m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Ariadne.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb directly up the rounded arete, past a memorable mantleshelf move.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig y Ffridd (p 70)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : Boro Hills
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
One hundred metre left of Iron in the Soul at the same level, is a slabby buttress whose right edge forms an attractive rib just left of a rocky gully. Start below and left of this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of a short wall, step right, and follow the rib to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig y Ffridd (p 70)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : Omnia
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres above and left of Boro Hills below the main face of the slabby buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the slabby buttress, between the the two mossy cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Craig y Ffridd (p 70)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : Trajan
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke
Start location:
Nine metres down and left of Omnia, is a short, steep wall. Start at its lowest point.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Trend up rightwards to gain the arete and finish up this. Rather unnerving on the slanting holds!

Additional info:
Craig y Ffridd is in fact below the N face of Foel Goch, just above the floor of the cwm at O S Ref 678 585. Similarly, Craig Nant yr Ogof is at O S Ref 675 584. This is a wonderful, wild, lonely cwm with many craglets. The rock is a kind of grainy gritstone!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Drws Nodded (p 79)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : Pre-Raphaelite
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty metres below and right of Drws Nodded is a grey buttress consisting of an attractive right-slanting rib. Start down and just right of this feature at a short wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Make a hard (5a) move up the wall immediately right of the wide crack; continue up for 2 metres, then step left to a ledge. Climb a short wall, then follow the pleasant right-slanting rib to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen Nant yr Ogof and Cwm Tryfan
Crag : Drws Nodded (p 79)
Date of ascent : 15/09/2011
Route name : True to Nature
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 14 metres right of Pre-Raphaelite at a ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a crack and a groove with a slither spike to a ledge. Finish up the wrinkled wall on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Castell y Gwynt (p 191)
Date of ascent : 22/09/2011
Route name : Rock Lobster
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Gwyntessential below a crooked rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crooked rib, with some frightening grass climbing to gain the upper continuation on the left.

Additional info:
Perhaps worth a visit mid-summer to investigate the 40m-high thin crack and blank slab just right of Crab Slab!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Castell y Gwynt (p 191)
Date of ascent : 22/09/2011
Route name : Gwyntessential
Length/grade/stars : 20m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Takes the fine slab 4 metres right of p2 of Frost's Climb. Start from large blocks below the slab, quickly reached by a short scramble from the main gully leading up to the Bwlch.

Pitch descriptions:
Move left and follow the centre of the slab, finishing to the right of the blocks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 23/09/2011
Route name : Clarice Cliff
Length/grade/stars : 32m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Pinnacle Rib Route. Descent:- Traverse right (looking in) to reach Little Gully.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a shallow groove in the left flank of the rib to reach a short impending wall. Follow a ramp up left; before stepping left into a V-groove. Move up the V-groove to a small ledge; then boldly hand traverse rightwards along the break, before stepping up to gain the flying arete. Climb the left side of this, in a fine position, and continue up to reach the blocks atop p1 of Pinnacle Rib Route.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 23/09/2011
Route name : Clan Union
Length/grade/stars : 25m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Pinnacle Rib Route.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the short, sharp edge and the flake above. Continue up the rib with a final steep pull through the slight nose to reach the blocks atop p1 of Pinnacle Rib Route.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 23/09/2011
Route name : Clandestine
Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Nor' Nor' Buttress, at a flake below a curving arete. Descent:- Traverse right (looking in) to gain Bastow Gully; care required!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb a short slab, then boldly follow the right side of the arête to reach a welcome spike. Finish up the delectable, delicate upper rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 04/10/2011
Route name : This Blasted Heath
Length/grade/stars : 30m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty metres above and right of the leaning pillar forming a cave on Bastow Buttress (p 94) is a fine buttress; defined on its left by a steep gully with a large overhang. It can be quickly reached by scrambling up the short gully 5 metres right of the leaning pillar. Start 3 metres right of the steep gully at a shallow groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull into the shallow groove and follow the crack above to a roof. Swing rightwards onto the rib, and continue direct with delicacy and a degree of trepidation. Finish up the wide groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 04/10/2011
Route name : Basted
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of This Blasted Heath on the far side of a gully below an attractive, brown slab. The gully may be descended utilizing its right wall (looking out); but beware the loose blocks!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant brown slab, using the cracks in its left-hand side.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 04/10/2011
Route name : Clavichord
Length/grade/stars : 22m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Columnar Grooves on top of, and at the right-hand end of the large blocks. Descent:- down a sloping ramp leftwards (looking in), into Bastow Gully.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull up a short rib and climb a steep little wall rightwards onto the main rib. Follow this up to the base of a groove. Step up right onto the rib again and finish up its right-hand side.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 04/10/2011
Route name : Clair de Lune
Length/grade/stars : 21m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Crackerjack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the left side of the rib delicately, and move left onto the blocks below the sidewall. Make a steep pull up, then follow the left-hand crackline to the top. Contrived, but delectable!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : The East Face of Tryfan (p 90)
Date of ascent : 04/10/2011
Route name : Clairvoyant
Length/grade/stars : 15m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres left of Clair de Lune, and 9 metres right of Arete Climb, below a beautiful slanting rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the rib directly. Superb, but beware the perched block at the very top!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 28/12/2011
Route name : Preseb
Length/grade/stars : 11m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifteen metres above the finish of Godidog is a fine little slab, cut by two thin cracks. Start below the right-hand sidewall of the slab, just right of a recess and at the foot of a spiky crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the spiky crack. The lower right-trending line of flakes, finishing up a short steep crack give the pleasant Asyn Bach (14m D 28.12.11).

Additional info:
Preseb means "manger"! Asyn Bach means "little donkey"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 28/12/2011
Route name : Persawr
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Preseb.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the spike and climb out of the recess, before following the thin crack above for 2 metres. Climb another thin crack on the left, and finish up the rib.

Additional info:
The name means "perfume"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 28/12/2011
Route name : Nadolig
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Persawr, at a curving groove below the right-hand thin crack in the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the groove and crack.

Additional info:
The name means "Christmas"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 28/12/2011
Route name : Llawen
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Nadolig below a block.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull around the block, and finish up the left-hand thin crack in the slab.

Additional info:
The name means "merry"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Glyder Fach (p 162)
Date of ascent : 28/12/2011
Route name : Doethineb
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Llawen.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Undercut leftwards below the block and pull up to gain a ramp. Climb the short corner on the left and finish up the rib.

Additional info:
The name means "wisdom"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Idwal Slabs and Walls Rhiwiau Caws (p 251)
Date of ascent : 16/04/2012
Route name : Crefydd
Length/grade/stars : 120m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately left of the deep furrow of The Ordinary Route.

Pitch descriptions:
1 46m 4a Climb straight up the slab, eventually traversing left to belay on the shoulder half-way up pitch 2 of Tennis Shoe.

2 18m 4c Above and to the left is a grey pillar with a groove on its right. Climb the slab just left of the groove, then the groove itself for a few metres. Step left onto the pillar and make a pull up near its left arete; before making the crux moves right and up to reach a right-facing corner. Up this to join pitch 3 of Tennis Shoe where it crosses the gully, and belay.

3 32m Step right and climb the slab to a grassy runnel. Move up left and follow the clean grey slab to belay on a terrace below and right of the Tower.

4 24m 4a Climb a white wall, then follow the diagonal line leftwards to a finish up a short grassy groove 6 metres above the perched block atop Tennis Shoe. A nice series of pitches, but with a much harder crux than the rest!

Additional info:
The name means "Religion"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Idwal Slabs and Walls (p 251)
Date of ascent : 28/04/2012
Route name : Udders Field
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Gap at the right-hand pocketed block.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the pockets rightwards and move up to the bulge. Pull leftwards through this to easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2012
Route name : Medea
Length/grade/stars : 15m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
To the right of the long, broken middle section of the crag, a parallel scarp forms a high buttress (approximately 180 metres above and right of Olwthin). The left-hand side of the buttress has blank walls separated by heather breaks. Whilst the right-hand side has an attractive brown wall, topped by overhangs, facing Tryfan. Start halfway up the slope below the brown wall at a shallow, right-slanting ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Gain the ramp, move up, then follow the thin cracks leftwards to the rib and finish up the wide crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Ogwen
Crag : Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (p 73)
Date of ascent : 02/05/2012
Route name : Templar
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres up and right of Medea, on a block at the foot of a gully.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step left along a shelf and pull around onto the left side of the arête. Finish up the fine arete.

Additional info:
Very good-- but needs a Direct Start. Probably 5b/5c after a good brushing!