Barry Clarke New Routes - North Wales Limestone

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Clwyd Limestone Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 15/11/09
Route name : Crepuscalar
Length/grade/stars : 7m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres up and left of Sunset.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Follow the encrusted wall, finishing slightly to the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Clwyd Limestone Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 15/11/09
Route name : Corvara
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo) Re-discovered)
Start location:
Start between Selva and Sesto.

Pitch descriptions:
4b. The wall and right-trending flake between Selva and Sesto gives a few interesting moves.

Additional info:
Done before; but worth recording!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Clwyd Limestone Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 17/11/09
Route name : Lapins
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Mestre.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the wall finishing over a small overlap below a group of saplings.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone ( Clwyd Limestone )
Crag : Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 17/04/10
Route name : The Howlers
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately left of Mango.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the blunt rib direct.

Additional info:
Lower section cleaned and re-discovered.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone ( Clwyd Limestone )
Crag : Pot Hole Quarry
Date of ascent : 17/04/10
Route name : Crack and Scoop
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Lapins, below a thin crack at half height.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the thin crack and the fingery scoop above; a bit dirty but unpolished!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Lost Property
Length/grade/stars : 7m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Rock Thief below a steep gullycorner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a steep wall on the right to gain a ramp system. Follow this leftwards to finish up a short corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Boots Arete
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for May Day.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step right and climb the arete.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Parakeet with Attitude
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Birds Cry.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull into the slabby groove and follow it pleasantly to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Warning
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Shepherd's Delight.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner by mainly using its right wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Blacksmith
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
15 metres right of Warning is a buttress with a left-curving overhanging flake in its centre. Start at the left side of the buttress below a grassy groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain and climb the grassy groove; better than it looks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Left Wing-Lower Crag
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Farrier's Groove
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Blacksmith.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up, step right and follow the ramp-like grooves; keeping left of the blocky prow at the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Dinbren Right Wing Hydrogen Area
Date of ascent : 13/05/10
Route name : Dan Dellion
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke solo (Re-discovered and dandelions removed!)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Babel Face.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rightwards-trending flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the "steps" leftwards and finish up a short corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Forty-Niner
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for 49 Steps.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall immediately left of the yew tree and finish up the curving crack above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Half Lode
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 12 metres right of Forty-Niner at a shallow groove guarded by a half-height overlap; and just left of an arete.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall, pull through the overlap and finish up the shallow groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Gentian
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
10 metres right of Minor Problem a half-height ledge has a small bulge with a thin crack on its right below it.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall and the thin crack to gain the ledge. Finish up the scoop to the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Wild Mint
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
22 metres right of Gentian is an inverted V-chimney just left of a large tree; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the chimney and pull onto the grey slab using a superb, but hidden set of pocket holds. Finish up the wall above. The chimney itself gives a classic tussle Mint Mine (8m S 19.07.10)

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd Limestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls Lower Tier
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Underwall
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Below the broken right-hand end of The Miner's Walls, a series of grey walls stretch leftwards forming a lower tier. Start in the middle of the first grey wall approximately 20 metres left of the fence.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the recessed wall and finish up a tiny V-groove on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Trend leftwards up a series of grooves, finishing to the left of the top overhang.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Clwyd LImestone
Crag : Monk's Buttress The Miner's Walls Lower Tier
Date of ascent : 19/07/10
Route name : Underflake
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
20 metres left of Undergrooves is a bulging, "holdless" grey wall; defined on its right by a flake crack; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Little Orme Summit Crags
Date of ascent : 21/10/10
Route name : Copa Crack
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
25 metres from the trig point atop the Little Orme summit, in the direction of Llandudno is a crag with two distinct sectors. The right-hand sector is a steep little wall; whilst the left-hand sector is a series of disjointed slabs. The steep little wall (RH Sector), terminates at its left end at a cave. Start 15 metres right of the cave at a chockstone-filled crack forming the left side of a pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the awkward chockstone-filled crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Little Orme Summit Crags
Date of ascent : 21/10/10
Route name : Copa Wall
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of the cave terminating the right-hand sector.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the steep wall with interest.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Little Orme Summit Crags
Date of ascent : 21/10/10
Route name : Bulbous
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start in a grassy recess with a floor-level large nut belay and 6 metres above the right end of the disjointed slabs.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up right to gain a bulbous nose, pass this to its right and step back left above it, continue to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Little Orme Summit Crags
Date of ascent : 21/10/10
Route name : Enormeus
Length/grade/stars : 11m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Bulbous.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb directly up the slab above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Little Orme Summit Crags
Date of ascent : 21/10/10
Route name : Copa Slab
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Enormeus.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the riven slab and smoother slab above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Little Orme Summit Crags
Date of ascent : 21/10/10
Route name : Little Monster Slab
Length/grade/stars : 16m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres down and left of Copa Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short corner to the right of the ivy band; and continue slightly left up the slab and rib.

Additional info:
Okay-- not great climbing. But they are the only "easy" routes in the area, and as such may achieve popularity! Its a pleasant spot, with no access issues and a fabulous view!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the broad slabby rib and the short, brittle finishing wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Mynydd Penygarreg Quarry
Date of ascent : 08/12/2010
Route name : Roses are Red
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 22 metres left of Violets are Blue on a higher ledge at the left-hand side of the quarry.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short, red-scarred earthy corner to reach a ledge on the left. Finish up the slabby rib above.

Additional info:
1 The OS Ref for the quarry is 816 817
2 As there is a patina of loose rock everywhere; it is unlikely that people have climbed here.
3 However, recent tree-felling has occurred, so maybe development is imminent?
4 The central grey slab looks very promising!
5 The descents are prickly nightmares; so abseiling from the trees at the top would seem a goog idea!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay
Date of ascent : 30/12/2010
Route name : Esplanade
Length/grade/stars : 150m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Follow the path to the rim of Angel Bay, but do not desend to the Bay. Follow the exposed fishermen's path to the right (looking out) to a ridge. Scramble down the ridge to reach a large platform 8m above the sea. This is where the Westy Boulder-hole Traverse starts (Bouldering Guide)!

Pitch descriptions:
An entertaining sea-level traverse from Angel Bay into Penrhyn Bay; across the sombre Seaward Wall (shown as Trwyn y Fuwch, O S Ref 819 827 on the map!). Very much in the mode of the Torbay, Devon coasteering expeditions! Low to Mid tide recommended! From the large platform descend a groove to sea-level. Adopt a crab-like posture and begin to traverse leftwards (looking in). The first 45 metres are straightforward and then a chimney is crossed awkwardly. A pleasant 10 metre section then leads to the crux; a 12 metre-long steep wall crossed painfully on sharp barnacles! Continue along the easier walls for 83 metres until ledges are reached. Walk along these and move up a short slab to reach the concrete ruins in Penrhyn Bay. From where a steep path on the left leads up through the grass and bracken to the grassy plateau at the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay
Date of ascent : 30/12/2010
Route name : Mere Still
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres left of the descent groove along the Esplanade traverse; below a circular, shallow cave at 2 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb past the cave and up the wall above, trending slightly leftwards near the top. All on sharp, Pembroke-like rock!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 08/01/2011
Route name : The Exposed Fisherman
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1m left of Mere Still below a small hole and tiny overlap at 2 metres. LowMid tide only!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb past these features and continue directly.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 08/01/2011
Route name : That's Swell
Length/grade/stars : 13m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1m left of The Exposed Fisherman below a black corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the black corner and continue up the wall slightly leftwards to finish up a vague crack; nice climbing!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 08/01/2011
Route name : Thyme
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of That's Swell below a pinnacle flake at 4 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the pinnacle flake and climb slightly rightwards up the yellow wall above. Climb the brown groove and finish up the wall above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 14/01/2011
Route name : Barnacle Bale-Out
Length/grade/stars : 7m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
A useful quick escape from the tidal ledges! Start 1m right of Mere Still.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short wall and straightforward scoop above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 14/01/2011
Route name : Dances with Seals
Length/grade/stars : 17m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start one and a half metres left of That's Swell.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the steep, prickly wall and finish up the yellow wall just right of the vague crack of That's Swell.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 14/01/2011
Route name : Sargasso
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The main feature left of Thyme is a long white-edged ledge at 4 metres. Start 3 metres left of Thyme.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the right end of the white-edged ledge, then follow the flakes on the right; before climbing the shallow groove above to a slightly harrowing grassy finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 14/01/2011
Route name : Short Fuse
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
As the Seaward Wall swings around southwards into Penrhyn Bay and just before the short slab at the finish of the long traverse of Esplanade; a wall, marked by two caves rises from a large, circular, scooped ledge (O S Ref 819 826). LowMid tide only! Gain the gun emplacement concrete ruins by descending the steep path from the grassy plateau. Walk towards the right end of the ruins (looking in); and descend the short slab to reach the scooped ledge. The wall is sheltered and receives the sun till 2pm! Start at the left side of the scooped ledge below a slabby, shallow groove leading to the left-hand cave.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to the cave; step left and up to gain the finishing terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 14/01/2011
Route name : Recoil
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Short Fuse.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall to the right-hand cave. Move left and climb the unprotected white rib on rounded holds to a rusty stake; move left to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 14/01/2011
Route name : Percussive
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Recoil.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove and continue up the rib on the right; move left and surmount the man-made wall by utilizing the wood sleeper!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 17/01/2011
Route name : Lemontyde
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Sargasso.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the white-edged ledge and follow the thin crack above, avoiding the normally wet initial section on the left. Continue up the wall to reach the PRE-PLACED ROPE!

Additional info:
As hinted in the description of Sargasso, the finishes of the routes to the left become increasingly broken and grassy with no discernible change in angle! Reluctantly, but with hindsight wisely; i have decided to pre-place a rope to assist with the topping out! The rope can be fixed to nut and cam belays in a small corner 20 metres back along the fishermen's path.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 17/01/2011
Route name : Prosperous Voyage
Length/grade/stars : 19m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres left of Lemontyde and 3 metres down and left of the white-edged ledge below a left-trending flake line.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the flakes and follow these leftwards to a ledge and a pre-placed rope. Good straightforward climbing in a wonderful situation!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 19/01/2011
Route name : Ripp Tide
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of Thyme.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the brown, crinkly wall and finish up the golden wall above via the niche.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay Seaward Wall
Date of ascent : 19/01/2011
Route name : Cormorant Ledge
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Lemontyde.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the white-edged ledge and continue up the brown wall above; moving left below a slight bulge to reach a pre-placed rope. Which you have wisely placed!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay
Date of ascent : 16/02/2011
Route name : Odelisque
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Takes the right arête of The Westy Blowhole. Accessed from the inland exit of the Blowhole, by descending the slabby wall, then contouring leftwards (looking in) to reach a large curvaceous flake below and right of the arête. Lowmid tide!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the barnacle-encrusted scoop and move left to gain the arête proper. Pull through a small overlap, move up, then follow the ramp rightwards to reach the inland Blowhole.

Additional info:
Quite a reasonable Deep Water Solo. Impossible to grade; it depends on if the barnacles are feeling particularly adhesive on the day! The name means "an erotic painting"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Little Orme Angel Bay
Date of ascent : 16/02/2011
Route name : Yodel Risque
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Odelisque.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the tricky right rib of the barnacle-encrusted scoop, and the pleasant white slab above to gain the ramp.

Additional info:
Not a DWS- the curvaceous flake awaits you!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-Bach Area Alltwen
Date of ascent : 06/03/201
Route name : Hoplite
Length/grade/stars : 8m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Ten metres South West of the summit of Alltwen (255m), lies a broken outcrop of Quartzite (O S Ref 746 773). Start at the left end of the outcrop at a small compact slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and the rocks above. The ill-defined rib 4 metres right gives a pleasant scramble Hopalong (8m Mod 06.03.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-Bach Area Alltwen
Date of ascent : 08/03/2011
Route name : To It Hop
Length/grade/stars : 18m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 25 metres below and right of Hoplite at a copper-coloured wall forming a green rib on its left.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the green rib and amble up the slabby grooves above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-Bach Area Alltwen
Date of ascent : 08/03/2011
Route name : Hopscotch
Length/grade/stars : 8m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty metres right of To It Hop at the final fling of the outcrop is a small, steeper wall with a crack in its centre.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-Bach Area Alltwen
Date of ascent : 08/03/2011
Route name : Oast Slab
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Hopscotch.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through a loose niche and climb the green slab to reach broken rocks.

Additional info:
The rest of the outcrop may be left to the enthusiastic scrambler. What is certain though is that the mini-Alpine ambiance, high above the Sychnant Pass is terrific!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 11/03/2011
Route name : Gleaming Slab
Length/grade/stars : 10m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The summit cairn of Penmaen-bach at the Eastern end of the hill (pt. 245); is supported on its South flank by a low-angled pleasant slab, with two, right-slanting breaks cutting into it (O S Ref 748 780). Access is from the car parks just below the top of the Sychnant Pass on the West (Penmaenmawr) side (O S Ref 750 770). Follow the maze of tracks Northwards (tricky in the mist!); for one and a half kilometres to reach the summit of Penmaen-bach. Start below the left-hand slanting break.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the break. The right-hand break gives White Spot (8m Mod 11.03.11)

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 11/03/2011
Route name : Glint
Length/grade/stars : 9m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Gleaming Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab direct. Starting half a metre left, the left side of the slab is Daz (9m D 11.03.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass Area
Date of ascent : 21/03/2011
Route name : Pam Dawber
Length/grade/stars : 10m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres left of Dry Throat below a low-angled rib leading up left of a large, quartz-daubed perched block.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib and its continuation.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass Area
Date of ascent : 21/03/2011
Route name : Gagging
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Pam Dawber at a buttress with a thin crack running up the right side of its front face.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack, through small bulges to the top.

Additional info:
A bit grubby still! But pleasant in the evening sunshine; and only a minute from the car!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass Area
Date of ascent : 21/03/2011
Route name : Dry Throat
Length/grade/stars : 13m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
From the car parks (O S Ref 750 770), just below and West of the summit of the Pass; looking up (East), an outcrop is seen on the right. Pass through the gate in the wall and amble up (60 seconds!). The main feature is an overhanging wall near its right-hand end, terminated on its right by a curving, quartz-marked arête; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right side of the curving arête, then the arête itself to finish up the straightforward slabs.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Kimberley
Length/grade/stars : 7m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
35 metres below and right of Gleaming Slab is a steeper, diamond-shaped little buttress; protected by a few bulges and gorse! Start 1 metre right of the central groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-slanting groove, using the small fin to gain the upper section.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Beaming
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Kimberley below the central groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the central groove, through the small bulges to the top. The loose bulge and vague rib immediately left give Flawed (8m S 23.03.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Sparklet
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Beaming.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through a small overlap to gain a shallow scoop and follow this to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Pancosen
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
50 metres left (NW) of Gleaming Slab is a slabby wall, with a small prow at its right side. Start at the foot of the groove leading up the left side of the prow.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and follow the rib to a finish up a small corner.

Additional info:
The name means "pancake"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Henwr
Length/grade/stars : 7m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Pancosen.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove and step right onto the prow to finish.

Additional info:
The name means "old man"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Pigog
Length/grade/stars : 10m Mod
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Henwr.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble pleasantly up the right-slanting central depression.

Additional info:
The name means "prickly"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Herc
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Pigog.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and steep little rib above with interest.

Additional info:
The name means "hop"! Named in honour of my injured leg; which has slowed me down for a month now!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Noth Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 23/03/2011
Route name : Heddychlon
Length/grade/stars : 8m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres above and left of Herc.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the "smooth groove" and step right and up at the roof to finish; pleasant.

Additional info:
The name means "peaceful"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Sychnant Pass area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 01/04/2011
Route name : Cuckoo Slab
Length/grade/stars : 40m D
Climbers : Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Driving down East from the summit of Sychnant Pass (towards Conwy) for 1 km, a minor road on the right (signposted Berthlwyd Hall) leads immediately to a large car park on the right. A walk along the minor road for 75 metres, past several broken slabs, leads to a lane on the right leading to the farmhouse. The first routes are on the large slab above the start of the lane (O S Ref 758 766). Start at the toe of the large slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb directly up the slab, past a quartz break, to reach stake belays at the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Sychnant Pass Area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 01/04/2011
Route name : Cuckoo Spit
Length/grade/stars : 30m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres up and left of Cuckoo Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab up and leftwards, then follow the steeper rib between the vegetation to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Sychnant Pass Area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 01/04/2011
Route name : Cuckoo Waltz
Length/grade/stars : 25m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty metres left of Cuckoo Spit is another stretch of slabs. Start at their lowest point.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short triangular slab, step left and follow the main slab to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales LImestone Sychnant Pass Area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 02/04/2011
Route name : Cooky
Length/grade/stars : 25m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Star 9 metres above and left of Cuckoo Waltz.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab trending slightly leftwards to finish up a crack immediately left of a small prow comprising suspect blocks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Sychnant Pass Area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 02/04/2011
Route name : Kuckuk Korner
Length/grade/stars : 23m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres up and left of Cooky.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab to reach the foot of a left-facing corner. Step right, and continue up the slab to finish just right of a short, slabby corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Sychnant Pass Area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 02/04/2011
Route name : Kukri
Length/grade/stars : 20m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres above and left of Kuckuk Korner, at a rib just right of a heathery break.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right side of the rib to gain the left-facing corner. Follow the rib on the left and storm up the headwall to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Sychnant Pass Area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 02/04/2011
Route name : On Hearing
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres left of Kukri.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend rightwards up the dark slab to a ledge. Step right and follow the golden wall to the top; quite good!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Sychnant Pass Area
Crag : Cogwrn Slabs
Date of ascent : 02/04/2011
Route name : The First Cuckoo
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for On Hearing.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb On Hearing for 3 metres, then trend leftwards up the dark slab to the ledge. Finish up the shallow groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 03/04/2011
Route name : Pine Solo
Length/grade/stars : 12m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty-five metres left of Heddychlon across a heatherscree gully; a laid back buttress may give a few slabby scrambles. A further 75 metres left is a more substantial buttress, identified by an overhung niche on its left and a sweep of slabs on its right. Start at the sweep of slabs on the right, below a shattered right-slanting groove and level with a small, solitary pine tree.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and climb the smooth slab. Cross the shattered groove and follow a series of grooves, finishing up the right-hand one.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 03/04/2011
Route name : Gwynan Slab
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Pine Solo.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the slab to gain the left-hand end of the triangular roof. Finish up the groove bordering the roof somewhat delicately!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 03/04/2011
Route name : Gwynan Crack
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres down and left of Gwynan Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step off a flake and move left into the overhung niche. Pull through the bulge and finish up the groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 08/04/2011
Route name : Crystal Edge
Length/grade/stars : 52m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The West summit sends a beautiful, curving quartzite ridge down Westwards ending 300 metres SW of the A55 Expressway tunnel exit at O S Ref 743 781. Local climbers have scrambled up this ridge for decades. One hundred metres right (S) of the start of the ridge is a large triangular buttress; best gained from the campsite at Pendyffryn Hall. Start 10 metres up and right of the base of the buttress below its notional right-hand edge; pruned gorse and a small cairn!

Pitch descriptions:
1 32m Climb leftwards up the small rib, then follow short walls up and slightly rghtwards until a ramp on the right gains a tiny ledge near the edge of the buttress. Nut and spike belays. 2 20m Above and left, the first obvious feature of the route so far is a left-slanting crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and continue up grooves on the right to reach the top of the buttress. A short walk gains the main mass. Either; scramble up to gain the main curving ridge and proceed to the summit, or descend slabs on the right to the large tree, and thrash down the bracken and scree to the start.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 08/04/2011
Route name : Monte Cristallo
Length/grade/stars : 48m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres down and left of Crystal Edge.

Pitch descriptions:
1 30m Climb the wall leftwards to gain a grassy groove. Cross this to reach the rib on the left; and follow the fine slab above to a ledge. Continue up short walls and a left-slanting gangway to a ledge and imaginative spike and nut belays. 2 18m Climb up to a break; cross this and move up the blunt rib above, until a series of gangways lead to the top, keeping to the right of a large block.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 08/04/2011
Route name : Zoot Groove
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ CLarke (solo)
Start location:
Looking up from the large tree on the descent, a groove with a flaky left wall is seen cutting up the right side of the steeper right flank of a scrambly rib; start below this groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the groove to reach the scrambly rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 08/04/2011
Route name : Traz
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres up and right of Zoot Groove.

Pitch descriptions:
A short corner leads to a bulge. Step right to find a series of holds which provide a neat solution to the smooth bulge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno Area
Crag : Angel Bay
Date of ascent : 25/05/2011
Route name : Going Cheep
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
At the far (N) end of the grass plateau crossed on the way to Angel Bay; is a short, south-facing quarried wall. The main feature is a red groove in its centre containing the biggest ring-bolt you'll ever see (it wasn't me, honest!). Start 4 metres left of the red groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Step up onto the concrete platform and continue up the rib to a steepening (suspect block). pull through the steepening and follow the right edge of the slab above, in a fine position, to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno Area
Crag : Angel Bay
Date of ascent : 25/05/2011
Route name : Bird Seed
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Going Cheep.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend up leftwards and pull over the steepening just left of the borehole. Finish up the groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno Area
Crag : Angel Bay
Date of ascent : 25/05/2011
Route name : St. Gregory
Length/grade/stars : 14m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 12 metres left of Bird Seed and just right of another ring-bolt.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the most continuous sweep of slabs and zig-zag up the more broken final section.

Additional info:
Named after a similar route at Torbay, Devon. In fact, this area is very reminiscent of Long Quarry Point; I'm still searching for another Sanctuary Wall though!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno Area
Crag : Penrhyn Bay Quarry Upper Level
Date of ascent : 25/05/2011
Route name : Bleak House
Length/grade/stars : 40m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite St. Gregory a grassy incline leads steeply up to the Upper Level of the quarry (O S Ref 816 826). The main features of the right-hand section of the level are huge, red overhangs on the right; whilst on the left side a belt of dark slabs, guarded by a solitary tree, sweep upwards. Start behind the solitary tree.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up the slab for a short way, then foot traverse right along a brown shelf, above a short, smooth wall to reach a shallow groove. Up this to a diagonal crack (runners), before stepping right and climbing the grey streak up the slab. Continue up the next grey streak above and left to reach the crumbling upper walls. Climb short slabs leftwards to gain a grassy ramp; follow this rightwards, past a shale band near the top. Mainly straightforward climbing throughout, but serious!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Castle Inn Quarry
Date of ascent : 29/05/2011
Route name : Rogation Crack
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Immediately left of the upper section of Indian Summer is a cracked wall of rough, pristine rock. Start below the central crackline.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant crack, past a small niche, to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Castle Inn Quarry
Date of ascent : 29/05/2011
Route name : Toowhit
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Rogation Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of a short, scarred bulge; keep left to finish up a crack. The crisp crozzly wall just right gives Toowhoo (7m VD 29.05.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone Llandudno
Crag : Penrhyn Bay Quarry Upper Level
Date of ascent : 03/10/2011
Route name : Gradgrind
Length/grade/stars : 30m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 60 metres right of Bleak House and 10 metres down and right of the huge red overhangs; where a sweep of white slabs form a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib, keeping right of the scruffy groove. At a steepening, move right, then back left to gain the upper slopes; scramble up these to the top. Straightforward slab climbing, but with no meaningful protection!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 05/11/2011
Route name : Bonfire Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 9m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifty metres right of the Forgotten Sun area, a large, ledgy quarried wall continues rightwards to end at a stepped ridge (Bonfire Ridge); where the crag changes angle to give a final, short brittle wall. Park as for the bolted areas, at the top of New Road turn right then left then immediately left again into a small quarry. A steep path on the right leads up to the aforementioned stepped ridge (5 mins!). Start at the foot of the stepped ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the stepped ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 10/11/2011
Route name : Vanity
Length/grade/stars : 13m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres down and left of Bonfire Ridge at a vague, steepening rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the rib to finish up a tiny groove in the rib itself.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 10/11/2011
Route name : Woodey
Length/grade/stars : 20m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 22 metres left of Woodey opposite a pine tree and below four short walls.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the four short walls awkwardly, taking the final one by its right nose. Scramble up rightwards, then climb the yellow, left-slanting groove to an earthy finish, but good trees above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 10/11/2011
Route name : Rattling the Piranhas
Length/grade/stars : 45m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifty metres left of Woodey a wall and arete seem to continue directly up to the top of the crag. Start just left of the high arête below a subsidiary rib, cairn! Descent:- Either abseil off the pine trees; or walk to the right (looking in) end of the crag and descend a short polished wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up leftwards and follow the slabby right flank of the subsidiary rib, before climbing the rib itself to ledges below a small tower. Climb the groove just left of the small tower to finish up a short wall. Poor bush belay, or pull up a rope.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 17/11/2011
Route name : The Sun Couloir
Length/grade/stars : 22m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 16 metres left of Rattling the Piranhas at a wide couloir behind three, dead tree trunks.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the right-hand side of the couloir for 3 metres. Move left and continue up the couloir to below a steep corner. Step right and follow a rib; before moving rightwards along the shelves to finish up a short corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 17/11/2011
Route name : Wintour's Leap
Length/grade/stars : 18m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres left of The Sun Couloir and 2 metres right of the man-made wall, at a thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Follow the arête above to a ledge below the headwall. Step right and climb the shallow groove just left of the rib, to a final move right and a finish on scree!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 22/11/2011
Route name : Stadamex
Length/grade/stars : 9m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifty metres below Bonfire Ridge, the small quarry passed on the approach is very terraced. However, at its left end is a more compact wall. Start at this wall below a large sprawling pine tree on the quarry top.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the pleasant ramp up leftwards to finish just left of the pine.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 22/11/2011
Route name : Ash Gate
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of Stadamex at a clearing in the floor-level vegetation.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the wall on sloping holds, then trend leftwards to finish awkwardly up a borehole corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Llandulas Cave Area
Date of ascent : 22/11/2011
Route name : Ox Rib
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty metres right of Ash Gate is a tiny red corner with a dwarf pine at its base. Start just right of these features.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall and rib.

Additional info:
A word of caution.....These nine routes, despite their modest grade are serious--there is scarcely an adequate runner between them!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass
Date of ascent : 28/11/2011
Route name : Cresta Capelulo
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
From the twin car parks at O S Ref 750 770, a stroll for 40 metres North Westwards along the farm track leads to an imposing cliff of red quartzite overhanging the track. The quartz-encrusted left-hand edge of this cliff is visible from lower down the Pass. Scramble up to a ledge and a metal stanchion below this left-hand edge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the edge, in a fine position, to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass
Date of ascent : 28/11/2011
Route name : Capelulo Slab
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Cresta Capelulo.

Pitch descriptions:
Ascend leftwards up a slab and scoop to a recess. Climb a crack and the slab on its left pleasantly to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 05/12/2011
Route name : Anywhere
Length/grade/stars : 9m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The stand-alone North summit of the hill is a fine viewpoint. A walk of 30 metres from the summit cairn in the direction of Llandudno brings a hidden valley into wiew. On its far side is a small but pleasant crag; divided into two sections by a loose corner (O S Ref 748 782). The left-hand section is an easy-angled slab; whilst the right-hand section is a steep wall. Start at the centre of the easy-angled slab below the right-hand of two tiny V-grooves.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up, step right, and follow the compact slab to the top. Starting 1 metre right the twin, right-slanting cracks are Erewhany (10m D 05.12.11) Whilst a further 3 metres right, the smooth slab just left of the loose corner gives Yawnhere (9m D 05.12.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 12/12/2011
Route name : Gorse Nip
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Yawnhere at the left side of the right-hand section of crag; just right of a straited wall and below a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the rib on layaways, then finish up the rib on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 12/12/2011
Route name : Penmaen-bachturm
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Gorse Nip at a square-cut groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove, past a suspect block, step right across Tramp and finish up the V-groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 12/12/2011
Route name : Tramp
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Penmaen-bachturm below a left-slanting ramp feature.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp system, then up a groove to a line of small overlaps. Skirt these on the left to finish as for Gorse Nip.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 12/12/2011
Route name : Superheat
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Tramp.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up to a higher ramp and continue up a steep groove to an exit rightwards near the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Penmaen-bach
Date of ascent : 12/12/2011
Route name : Shacked Up
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Tramp towards the right-hand side of a short, impending wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Find the crafty finger-lock in a tiny niche, then swarm up the impending wall to easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass
Date of ascent : 27/12/2011
Route name : Little Sir
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
From the twin car-parks (O S Ref 750 770) below the summit of the Pass, a walk of 120 metres South Westwards along the green path leads to the top of a wide shallow gully. On the left (looking out) side of the gully is a buttress. Start on the left flank of this buttress, next to a boulder and below a crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to easier ground and the summit.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass
Date of ascent : 27/12/2011
Route name : Step White Up
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres down and right of Little Sir, at the toe of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the ridge to a bulge, step left, move up, then back right to finish on the ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : North Wales Limestone
Crag : Sychnant Pass
Date of ascent : 27/12/2011
Route name : Beach Echo
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Step White Up.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up, then right, and pull awkwardly through a bulge. Trend up rightwards to the headwall, and overcome this by using the flake crack.