Barry Clarke New Routes - Gogarth

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Angelsey Gogarth Holyhead Mountain
Crag : Ramp A
Date of ascent : 04/02/10
Route name : Merlot Slab
Length/grade/stars : 28 m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Thumbscrew, at a deep corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Graunch up the deep corner and continue up the slab before moving right to a quartz block. Step right and climb the rib to a finish up the continuation rib on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth Holyhead Mountain
Crag : Ramp A
Date of ascent : 04/02/10
Route name : Finbar
Length/grade/stars : 6 m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres left of Corkscrew.

Pitch descriptions:
Seven metres left of Corkscrew is a quartz-bedecked arete which forms a thin blade of rock in its upper section. Gain the arete by a long stride from the right; and continue up the blade to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Holyhead Mountain
Crag : Central Slab
Date of ascent : 07/02/10
Route name : Engage Reverse
Length/grade/stars : 50m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Black Owen.

Pitch descriptions:
A high level left to right traverse of the slab; with a technical and serious (especially for the second) first pitch and a delectable finish. 1 30m 4c. Follow Black Owen to the shallow chimney. Move right for 2 metres and make a tricky descent to a lower ramp; traverse rightwards down along this until the sanctuary of Route 66 is reached. Move up and right to gain a ledge and belay. 2 20m 4a. Move up and traverse right for 5 metres to reach a small overlap. Step up and follow the obvious footholds into the fine hand crack of D'Elephant. Continue rightwards below another small overlap to finish up the slabby wall on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 09/02/10
Route name : Blunt Instrument
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
80 metres East of the North Stack buildings a broad heathery ridge, marked by small rock outcrops leads down to serrated ledges forming a blunt promontory ( suggested name of area Blunt Promontory?). Its left-hand side wall (looking in) contains a series of cracks. This first route takes the line of the first crack 2 metres left of the arete.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack, somewhat awkwardly where it widens near the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 09/02/10
Route name : Snaptrack
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Blunt Instrument.

Pitch descriptions:
Start 3 metres left of Blunt Instrument and follow a series of flakes diagonally rightwards to finish up a rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 09/02/10
Route name : Buntline Special
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The right-hand side wall (looking in) is comprised of grooves and walls. Start from high ledges at the left-hand side of the wall below a shallow groove and immediately right of a subsidiary chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow groove and finish to the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Boot Zawn
Date of ascent : 10/02/10
Route name : Wylfarine
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of the descent corner as for Idris Mad Dog.

Pitch descriptions:
4b. Make a tricky traverse left just above the barnacle line to reach a curving groove. Up this to a rounded roof, pass this on its right to easier ground and the top. Starting 5 metres to the left, at the left edge of a smooth slab; and best gained by a rightwards traverse from the promontory is Wylfa View (7m VD). It follows a series of slabby grooves with pleasant climbing.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Boot Zawn
Date of ascent : 10/02/10
Route name : Spliff
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres RIGHT of the descent corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the wide dark groove and continue up the left side of the arete above to gain the finishing terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Boot Zawn
Date of ascent : 10/02/10
Route name : Gridba
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Spliff.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the quartz-flecked wall to a ledge below a square overhang. Step left and follow a ramp up rightwards to gain the finishing terrace.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 12/02/10
Route name : To the Point
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
7 metres right of Buntline Special is an inlet whose right-hand corner comprises a steep, crumbling chimney. Cross the inlet (lowmid tide and a calm sea recommended); and belay on ledges 4 metres above the sea and below the crumbling chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Step right and climb an arete and continue up the shallow groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 12/02/10
Route name : Outland
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
75 metres left (East) of Tsunami Zawn is another zawn characterized by a large "island", whose seaward end forms a stack. This route takes a line up the slabby flank of the stack facing Tsunami Zawn; gained by quickly crossing mid-tide ledges. Start below the obvious line of leftward-trending cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the leftward-trending cracks up the slabby flank of the stack. DESCENT:- Go to the seaward end of the stack and descend a series of large brittle holds on the same flank as the route you have just climbed!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : North Coast Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 12/02/10
Route name : Ozland
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Outland.

Pitch descriptions:
4b. Climb up rightwards to a large sloping ledge on the arete. From where a stiff pull on doubtful holds gains the summit.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 04/03/10
Route name : Silva Crack
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The right-hand (Western) descent for Tsunami Zawn is more convoluted than the guidebook indicates; involving the descent of a green wall at the tip of the promontory (5m VD). Start 5 metres right of this descent below a flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the steep flake crack.

Additional info:
Almost a Deep Water Solo at high tide!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 04/03/10
Route name : Greenbeard
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of the Western descent, 5 metres left of Silva Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
A pleasant excursion, especially at high tide. Traverse left for 3 metres to gain an arete, then follow the bearded flake crack on the left to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Breakwater Quarry
Date of ascent : 04/03/10
Route name : Softly, Softly
Length/grade/stars : 16m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
At the top of the first steep rise of the Landrover track from the car park, is a stepped, broken buttress on the right. The main features are a pinnacle block on the left, a yellow wall just right, and right again a left-slanting crack with a path leading up to it! Start at the foot of the left-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. A good line on worsening rock! Climb the left-slanting crack, and at its top, step right onto a glacis. Trend up rightwards taking the stepped corner on loose rock.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Emerald Groove
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)

Start 4 metres right of To the Point below an attractive slabby groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4c. Climb the slabby groove with an exit right near the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Emerald Cracks
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:
9 metres right of Emerald Groove past a deep grotto is a blunt pinnacle. The foot of which can be reached at low tide by descending quartz ledges on its seaward face. Start at the foot of twin cracks forming the left-bounding corner of the blunt pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the twin cracks to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Asphalt Chimney
Length/grade/stars : 20m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:
To the right (W) of the blunt pinnacle, ledges lead right for 15 metres below an impressive white wall to a chimney groove with a hole at half height. Start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the chimney groove and climb it to a serious finish on grassy slabs; with no real belays above. Although a pathtrench 20 metres higher may give some comfort.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Right Vee
Length/grade/stars : 13m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
7 metres left of Greenbeard a large chimney-groove is divided by a fin of rock into two V-grooves. Low tide required for scrambling access! Start below the right-hand V-groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-hand V-groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Cote Sauvage
Length/grade/stars : 17m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
8 metres left of Right Vee and 9 metres right of The Chimney is a fine slabby wall marked by a black streak. Start on a large flat ledge below the black streak. Low tide required!

Pitch descriptions:
4b. Zig zag slightly up the slabby wall roughly following the line of the black streak; superb, but poorly protected!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Brick Hole
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
75 metres along from where the "Yellow Brick Road" path to Tsunami Zawn starts proper; looking inland is a rounded quartzite buttress, 20 metres above the path. Vegetation encroaches everywhere, but there are a few interesting moves here; and may save the day when the proper crags are lashed by the Westerlies! Towards the right side of the buttress is a small, curious scoop at waist height; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Stand in the scoop and follow the slabs above and right until the heather intrudes; then descend down to the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Yellow Whale
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Brick Hole at the leftmost slice of diagonal quartz.

Pitch descriptions:
4c. Make interesting moves directly up the wall and continue through the straightforward rounded bulge to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Tsunami Zawn Area
Date of ascent : 07/03/10
Route name : Roadhouse
Length/grade/stars : 13m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Yellow Whale at a shallow corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Leave the gorse behind and follow the flake holds up and right to finish up the slabby nose above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : Aisle Crack
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The small cliffs at the north side of the bay now offer a few sun-drenched routes. Beware the snappy rock! Reach the far headland by a pleasant 15 minutes walk along the coast path. Descend easy rocks on the left (looking out) side of the headland to reach sea level. The first routes are 25 metres right of the headland (looking in, SE) on a rounded buttress which curves around to produce a steep sidewall above a narrow iinlet. Start at the entrance to the inlet on its left wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move right along a flake for a metre, then gain and climb the steep crack above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : What Ails Thee?
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Aisle Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move right along the flake for 2 metres; before climbing the curved crack above. Finish up the rib on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : The Chancel
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
These next routes lie in the vicinity of a pretty zawn some 60 metres right (looking in) of the headland. Access is by descending the left-hand ridge (looking out), past a broad-based pinnacle (The Chancel). Start at the base of the pinnacle at the exact entrance to the zawn.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the left side of the arete of the pinnacle.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : Transcept
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for The Chancel.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up, step left and follow the slanting groove to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : Chance Groove
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres left of The Chancel on a mid-tide ledge just short of the groove. The ledge is gained by down-climbing to the right of the pinnacle (looking in)!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move left and gain the groove with difficulty. Continue more easily up the groove to a serious and thought-provoking finish. The crinkly wall just right is gained awkwardly from the mid-tide ledge and followed to the top Slim Chance (9m S 4b 2010).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : Chancel Crack
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
14 metres right of The Chancel, past a small tower is a smooth bulging wall with a niche on its left. Start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the niche, step left then right to finish up the thin crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : Fine Chance
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Chancel Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Pull up the bulging wall and continue to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Porth Swtan (Church Bay)
Date of ascent : 15/05/10
Route name : Chancellary
Length/grade/stars : 12m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Fine Chance at a brown wall.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the deceptively-difficult wall to an overhang. Step right and follow the right-slanting crack to a grassy finish; and serious scrambling above!

Pitch descriptions:
Move up and follow the ramp leftwards for 3 metres; before climbing the flake crack above and right. Finish up the quartz slab on the left; good juggy climbing!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain The Pillar
Date of ascent : 06/12/2010
Route name : Gorse Force
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Surprise.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step off the edge of a flake, and pull up into a niche. Step right and finish up easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain The Pillar
Date of ascent : 06/12/2010
Route name : Maen Tramgwydd
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Gorse Force.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the summit of the flake and climb the wall and slab above.

Additional info:
The name means "Stumbling Block"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Sub Slab
Date of ascent : 06/12/2010
Route name : Submarina
Length/grade/stars : 25m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Hat.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull over the small overlap and climb the slab and short left-facing corner to reach the headwall. Step right and finish up the thin cracks.

Additional info:
Classy and delightful! The route would be missed if the new guidebook was to have been believed!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Sub Slab
Date of ascent : 06/12/2010
Route name : Gwefr
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 15 metres down and right of Comfortably Numb, at a striking arete, with quartz chevrons on its right side, protruding from the broken wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the thin flaky cracks on the left side of the arête to a ledge. Move up, then follow the right side of the arête to the top; fine and rather scary!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Quartz Wall
Date of ascent : 12/12/2010
Route name : Pawnee
Length/grade/stars : 22m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start up and right of Contestant at the foot of a steep nose.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb cracks up the steep nose and continue up the slab on the right to reach the slabby corner of Blackfoot. Up this for a couple of metres, then follow the arête on the right to an exit rightwards at the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Central Slab
Date of ascent : 12/12/2010
Route name : Loopin
Length/grade/stars : 28m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Lost Hope.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab trending rightwards to gain the vegetated corner of Route 66; continue up and right to gain the ledge above the corner. Move up for 3 metres then traverse left to reach the upper section of a wide crack; follow this to a ledge. Finish up the cracks on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Central Slab
Date of ascent : 12/12/2010
Route name : Spanked
Length/grade/stars : 30m S
Climbers : BJ clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Slippers.

Pitch descriptions:
Takes the edge of Slippers directly. Climb the left edge of the slab and pull through the bulge directly. Continue up the edge to gain the optional belay ledge. Climb the slab above and left; then trend rightwards up the fine slabby wall to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Central Slab
Date of ascent : 12/12/2010
Route name : Guppy's Fort
Length/grade/stars : 32m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Spanked.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow Spanked to the bulge, and move rightwards below it; before climbing the slab up and right to gain the ledge below the hand crack of D'Elephant. Climb the wall 2 metres left of the hand crack to a small overlap. Pass this on its right and move up to reach the base of a shallow heathery crack. Move right and climb the wall to the top; a fine finish!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Quartz Wall
Date of ascent : 23/12/2010
Route name : Penypicell
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
A few metres below Breaking the Barrier is a spearhead-shaped boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant right arete of the boulder

Additional info:
Lots of snow; but i won't bother claiming a winter ascent!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Quartz Wall
Date of ascent : 23/12/2010
Route name : Mum's the Word
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Momser.

Pitch descriptions:
A slight improvement on Momser! 4b Climb the pink-hued gully wall rightwards via the interesting shallow groove. A stiff pull up a short impending wall gains the finishing cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Ramp E
Date of ascent : 06/01/2011
Route name : Burdock
Length/grade/stars : 18m HS
Climbers : BJ clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Mrs Murdock.

Pitch descriptions:
A more open version of Mrs Murdock. 4b Step right and follow a slab right of the gully for 2 metres; before striding left and climbing the short arete to reach the earthy ledge below the corner. Move up, and use the curving crack to make an awkward move onto the right rib. Climb the wall above and finish as for the right-hand finish of Mrs Murdock.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Yellow Wall
Date of ascent : 06/01/2011
Route name : Leftover
Length/grade/stars : 20m S
Climbers : BJ C-larke (solo)
Start location:
Start below the left edge of the overgrown slab, 8 metres left of Bloody Fingers; well worthwhile!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left edge of the slab, over a small, square cut roof; before trending rightwards for a pleasant, clean finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Yellow Wall
Date of ascent : 06/01/2011
Route name : Architrave
Length/grade/stars : 18m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
15m up and left of Leftover is a fine, arched rib, on the far side of the descent path; start at its foot.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the rib, with poor protection at half-height; before easier ground leads to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglsey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Sneaky Seal Wall
Date of ascent : 20/02/2011
Route name : Convo Flutes
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
15 metres left of Sneaky Seal the crag ends at a ridge, which at its base forms a small buttress. Scramble down the ridge to reach a large ledge atop the buttress. A climb down the groove and slabs on the right (looking out) gains sea level. The routes climbed so far start from a tiny inlet on the right flank of the buttress; gained by a rightwards traverse from the foot of the descent (very tricky at high tiderough seas!). Start as for The Rut.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb leftwards up the wall and follow the arete to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Sneaky Seal Wall
Date of ascent : 20/02/2011
Route name : The Rut
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the tiny inlet on the right flank of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the back of the inlet and pull through the flaky bulges to gain the large ledge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglsey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Sneaky Seal Wall
Date of ascent : 20/02/2011
Route name : Pebble Moussaka
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for The Rut.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up and climb the wall rightwards to reach a ledge on the right arête of the inlet. Continue up the arete to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 20/02/2011
Route name : Mere Craft
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The beautiful headland West of Llanbadrig Church (O S Ref 373 946); consists, in fact, of three mini-headlands. The right-hand one is obvious by its overhanging block; and the central one by its easy-angled slabs. The routes are located on the left-hand one identified by a small, offshore, flat-topped block island. From the headland scramble down slabs in the general direction of the block island to gain a sheltered ledge behind a seaward pinnacle. Start at the left-hand end of the sheltered ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
A great little adventure, especially at high tide! 4c Step off the end of the sheltered ledge and make a hunched traverse left under a roof to gain a recess. Step left, move up and then leftwards to gain the summit of a pinnacle; from where a pull across reaches the headland. The seaward pinnacle, protecting the sheltered ledge is too short for proper routes. However, Its outer right-hand arete gives a pleasant scramble Pinn Number (Mod 20.02.11); whilst the impending wall 4 metres left is Surf (HS 4a 20.02.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Mourning Black
Length/grade/stars : 15m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Ten metres West of the graveyard wall at Llanbadrig Church is an ancient quarry. A further scramble of 35 metres West reaches a ledge system at the top of a dark cliff, comprising slabby ribs and grooves. Access is by climbing down straightforward rocks on the right-hand side (looking out) of the cliff; to gain a rock pool in a trench. Low tide only! Beware lethally greasy conditions when conditions are damp!

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across the rock pool just right of its widest part and climb the wall. Trend leftwards and finish up a groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Funebre
Length/grade/stars : 15m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Mourning Black, just where the rock pool narrows; below a shallow rounded groove in the lower wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove and rib above to finish up a small groove. The left-slanting basalt dyke defining Funebre on its right is Cortege (Mod 24.02.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Trauer
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of the basalt dyke of Cortege.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up onto the wall on the right and continue up and rightwards to finish up a small corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Lich
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Trauer.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the obvious corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Feierlich
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Lich below a steep crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the steep crack and continue up the wall above, trending leftwards up the flakes to finish. The arête on the right gives the pleasant Rite (VD 24,02,11).

Additional info:
Feierlich is a German musical term meaning "solemn"!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Weep
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Feierlich.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the usually greasy corner; keeping left over a slight bulge near the top.

Submitted by : BJ Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Subvenite
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Weep.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the ramp, and follow the crack in the slab above; before trending right to finish.

Additional info:
Subvenite is a prayer for the recently deceased!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 24/02/2011
Route name : Cemetary Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 22m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Subvenite, below the right-bounding ridge of the cliff.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ridge, past a steepening, and scramble up the ridge above in a fine position.

Additional info:
The ledges below Lich are 4 metres higher than the sea-level ledges. Thus by down-climbing Cortege the climbing time may be extended by a couple of hours! The right sidewall of Cemetary Ridge looks awesome (mid E grade maybe?)....Go for it!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Sors Slab
Length/grade/stars : 20m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Cemetary Ridge, on the far side of the zawn.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb leftwards up the dank slabs, then finish more directly up a groove with a thin crack in its back.

Additional info:
Climbed in very traditional style; that is, socks were worn over rock shoes!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Shrouded Groove
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 18 metres right of Sors Slab below a black groove cutting up through a buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove, exiting rightwards near the top. Take care with several blocks. The golden wall immediately left gives Solenelle (10m VD 28.03.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Remanter
Length/grade/stars : 6m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Ten metres right of Shrouded Groove an attractive grey wall rises from a channel. Start below its left side.

Pitch descriptions:
Pul over a small overlap and finish up a ramp and flakes.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Momento Mori
Length/grade/stars : 9m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Remanter below a rightwards-rising crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rising crack; short, but atmospheric!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Lamentoso
Length/grade/stars : 7m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
On the right-hand of the mini-headlands West of Llanbadrig Church, a scramble below the right side of the overhanging block gains the top of a ramp leading down to the sea. The ramp is overlooked by a bulging wall on its left. Start at the top of the ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse the flakes rightwards onto the left end of the bulging wall and pull up to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Sad Song
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres down the ramp right of Lamentoso, below the first break in the bulging wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up, and follow a scoop up and leftwards to reach the finishing moves of Lamentoso.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Tolling Bell
Length/grade/stars : 20m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres below and right of Sad Song, at the bottom of the ramp on a low-tide ledge under a tower-like buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the ledgy wall leftwards, then follow the right-trending ramp which forms the left flank of the tower.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 28/03/2011
Route name : Lacrimosa
Length/grade/stars : 13m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Tolling Bell, at the foot of a dark, curving groove; bordering the tower to its right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove, with more interest than expected!

Additional info:
The approach ramp is lethally slippery when damp; as my sore leg still testifies, after 5 weeks!

Submitted by : Bary Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 11/05/2011
Route name : Omega 3 Corner
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Three hundred metres left (West) of the loose, terraced cliffs draping the west flank of Trwyn Dinmor, a small promontory juts out into the sea (O S Ref 625 816). The promontory has an East-facing wall with several strong, steep lines (lowmid tide), and may be accessed by descending the grassy ridge opposite. The right-hand (seaward) section of the wall is an attractive grey wall riven by cracks; the left end of the grey wall is delineated by a dark corner. Start below this dark corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner, and at the brittle top section, traverse left and finish up ledges.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 11/05/2011
Route name : Pasted Fish
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres around and left of Omega 3 Corner below a chimney with a ledge at 5 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the chimney and finish up the knobbly wall.

Additional info:
Access by car is tricky! Either attempt to park along the narrow lane leading to Pentir, and go through the gate, then strike across the field (10 mins!). Or pay the £2-50 toll and park at Trwyn Du (good cafe!). Follow the coastal path NW for just over 1 km to reach the same field (35 mins to promontory!).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 14/05/2011
Route name : Bo
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
On the other (West) side of the promontory containing Omega 3 Corner, is a smaller, but still steep wall rising from higher tidal ledges. Easily gained by descending a grassy gully in the West corner of the promontory, where it connects with the mainland. Heading seawards for 30 metres below a loose cliff from the grassy gully; a hollow strip roof above a smooth wall is seen. After a further 10 metres this section of cliff ends at a leaning corner. Start 2 metres left of this corner.

Pitch descriptions:
After a steep start, follow the right-trending " slabby " groove to the top and a thread belay. The wide groove 1 metre left gives Maris (6m D 14.05.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 14/05/2011
Route name : Fun Hell
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Ten metres left of Bo is a funnel-shaped groove rising above a wide, gently-sloping ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb it.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 14/05/2011
Route name : Scarecase
Length/grade/stars : 9m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Fun Hell below a shelf at 2 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the left end of the shelf, and follow the staircase of filigree holds up and leftwards to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 14/05/2011
Route name : Exit Last
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 18 metres left of Scarecase at a wide crack before the last buttress of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wide crack and finish up the wall on the left; keeping near the arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/05/2011
Route name : To Beaumaris and Beyond
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twelve metres right of Omega 3 Corner and around the impending arête, a short corner leads to a wide ledge system stretching to the very tip of the promontory. Start at the TOP of this short corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Descend the corner for 1 metre then traverse out left to reach the impending arête. Follow this to a ledge and easier ground above. Superb, but feeling bold, despite the large holds!

Additional info:
Climbed as a Deep Water Solo at two-thirds high tide!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/05/2011
Route name : Tip Flake
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Following the wide ledge system (at the start of To Beaumaris and Beyond), seawards for 20 metres gains a large area of dark, sloping ledges. Best gained by scrambling down the promontory. Eight metres right (looking in) of the dark, sloping ledges, an attractive grey wall rises from a black ledge at two and a half metres. Start below the left end of the black ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the edge of the wall to gain the left end of the black ledge. Step left, then follow glorious flake holds rightwards before pulling up to finish just left of Tipolino.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/05/2011
Route name : Tipolino
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Tip Flake.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up the wall to the black ledge. Follow the awkward left-slanting crack in the grey wall above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/05/2011
Route name : Tip Groove
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Tipolino.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow a corner to the right end of the black ledge, and continue up the left-facing, right-angled groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/05/2011
Route name : Tipple
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Tip Groove at a recess.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the tricky crack up the back wall of the recess.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 26/06/2011
Route name : Ship Hams
Length/grade/stars : 13m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Pasted Fish at a curving corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the curving corner. Take care with the belays at the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 26/06/2011
Route name : Prickly Pear
Length/grade/stars : 13m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start location:
Three metres right of Omega 3 Corner is a dark niche; start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up into the niche; step left and follow the cracks above. Exciting climbing on good, but snappy holds up the impending wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 26/06/2011
Route name : Snapper
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke, Graham Townsend
Start location:
Start as for Prickly Pear.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up into the niche; step right and follow the thin crack up the impending wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 29/06/2011
Route name : Crucis
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Sad Song.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb Sad Song for 2 metres, then stretch right. Use the cracked jug on the right for the right foot, and then finish on good holds.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 29/06/2011
Route name : Memoria
Length/grade/stars : 7m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres below and right of Sad Song at the next break.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the break rightwards to gain a small ledge. Step back left and finish up the short steep crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 29/06/2011
Route name : Catacomb
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Memoria at a cleft.

Pitch descriptions:
Swing into the cleft and move up onto the ledge. Step left immediately and finish up the arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 29/06/2011
Route name : Vault Fault
Length/grade/stars : 21m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The channel below Momento Mori is blocked at its landward end by a huge boulder. Above, the channel continues as a curving fault. Start at the foot of the curving fault, behind the boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
After a steep start, the fault eases to a scramble.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 29/06/2011
Route name : Grave Groove
Length/grade/stars : 20m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres above and right of Vault Fault; where a line of black slabs lead leftwards to a bulge cut by a crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse the black slabs leftwards and pull through the bulge at the crack. Finish up the groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 29/06/2011
Route name : Tombstone
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Thirty metres right (looking in) of Momento Mori, and across the channel; is a brown and yellow buttress rising above black ledges. Best gained by descending the grey ramp to its left (looking in). Start on the black ledges below the left side of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-slanting scoop, then cross a steep wall rightwards to reach a gangway. Follow this to the right, then finish leftwards up a corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Double Tip Trip
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start just right of the impending arete of To Beaumaris and Beyond. Low tide only!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short corner (DOWN which To Beaumaris and Beyond starts) to the wide ledge system. Finish up the dark upper groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Tacomseh
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of the upper groove of Double Tip Trip where a thin crack cuts through a black wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant thin crack. The steep wall immediately right gives a nice problem Pipped (7m S 4b 10.07.11). Whilst the left-slanting corner crack just right again is Tipstaff ( 8m D 10.07.11). The short back wall of the wide ledge has a horizontal break at 2 metres. Hand traversing the break from left to right gives a good workout; Tip Trainer (10m S 4c 10.07.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Chicken Tips
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Tip Flake.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the outer face of a pedestal, then finish rightwards up the scoop on diminishing chickenheads.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Tip Off
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Tipple.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the corner crack and finish steeply.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Top Tip
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Tip Off where converging crack form a corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Tip Top
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Top Tip.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards to a ledge below an arête (refuge belay if the sea threatens!). Finish up the fine, but short arête.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 10/07/2011
Route name : Coal Tip
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres further right along the high tide ledge from the arête of Tip Top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up rightwards across the pleasant dark wall to good finishing holds at the skyline.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 12/07/2011
Route name : Morbidezza
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Remanter.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the wrinkled wall up and rightwards to reach a shallow groove. A tricky move up this gains the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 12/07/2011
Route name : Boot Hill
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Tombstone.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain a shelf and pull up the steep wall slightly on the left Finish up the white tower above and right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 12/07/2011
Route name : Melismata
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Boot Hill in a streaked runnel.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Teeter rightwards across a smooth slab; step right and climb the steep wall to a break. Step right again and finish up the flakes.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 12/07/2011
Route name : Crypt
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres below and right of Melismata at the base of a chimney cleft at high tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the curving groove and chimney cleft above. Good holds on its right rib helping to maintain a degree of elegance!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 12/07/2011
Route name : Mausoleum
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Crypt.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow groove in the dark slab, and pull through the slight bulge to reach easier ground. Dry conditions desirable!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 12/07/2011
Route name : Missa
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Mausoleum.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the dark slab via two blunt noses and a steeper headwall. Again, dry conditions desirable!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/07/2011
Route name : Tip the Wink
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Coal Tip, below a rightwards-facing corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner to a tricky finish. The rather painful left-hand of the twin cracks 1 metre right is Sore Tip (7m VD 20.07.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/07/2011
Route name : Tippicanoe
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Tip the Wink.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse out rightwards and climb the fine and crimpy left side of the arête.

Additional info:
Climbed as a Deep Water Solo (S2); but choose a high tide!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/07/2011
Route name : Tip Ex
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Four metres right of Tippicanoe the front wall of the buttress contains a square-cut groove. At high tide descend the steep juggy arête to its left (looking out) to a tiny platform.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left and climb the squre-cut groove. The descent, in ascent, gives Descent Arête (5m VD 20.07.11).

Additional info:
Both routes climbed as Deep Water Solos (both S1)!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 25/10/2011
Route name : Tippicanoe Two
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Tip Ex on the tiny platform at the foot of Descent Arête.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up rightwards into the corner. Continue to the roof, then pull rightwards onto the wall. Regain balance awkwardly, then reach for the top.

Additional info:
Climbed as a Deep Water Solo (S1)!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 25/10/2011
Route name : Tamarisk
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Nine metres right of Tippicanoe Two on the opposite side of the narrow channel is a dark rib. Start atop the choke on the inland side of the channel.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend the ramp and traverse out right to gain and climb the dark rib direct. At the base of the descent ramp, when the tide has receded a little, a hole leads into a grotto, above which is a circular chimney; Tubular (6m D 25.10.11).

Additional info:
Tamarisk climbed as a DWS (S2); Try and land in the channel and not on the reefledge on the right!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Anglesey Gogarth North
Crag : Penmon Area
Date of ascent : 25/10/2011
Route name : Flanking Ramp
Length/grade/stars : 17m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The Trevallen-like, square-cut sea-cliff below the fish processing plant (O S Ref 632 817); looks the most promising cliff in the area! It can be reached from the car park and cafe (toll) at Trwyn Du (25 mins); or by risking taking your car down the track to the huge parking area just outside the plant's gates. Start below a right-slanting corner high up on the sidewall at the right-hand end of the cliff, overlooking the boulder field descent. There is a dinky cairn and two horizontal boreholes!

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble up corners and ledges to gain the right-slanting corner, and climb its right side.

Additional info:
Inlets and zawns restrict access to the left-hand (East) side of the cliff; but a boulder field at the far right end gives access. The flat cliff top gives straightforward walking; except for an exposed step around the end of the fence, care required! Lots of potential--take a look!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Fedw Fawr Area
Date of ascent : 20/11/2011
Route name : Calypso
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Omega 3 Corner, below a right-angled corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner, and where it closes, make a dainty traverse rightwards to the rib (suspect horizontal block at the start of traverse!). Pull up the left side of the rib to gain the finishing ledges of Omega 3 Corner.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 11/04/2012
Route name : Wyld Foul
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Wylfwl, just left of the arête.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant sidewall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 11/04/2012
Route name : Wylfwl
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Wylmer.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb up to a small niche, then hand traverse horizontally left and pull up into a recess; finish up the short groove just left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 11/04/2012
Route name : Wylmer
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
To the left of Mere Craft, a midlow tide ledge widens after 18 metres to form a prominent yellow-flecked platform at high tide level. Above and right are two impending walls ( the right-hand one at 45 degrees and unclimbed!), with a groove between them. Start just left of the base of this groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the groove steeply, and where it lies back, traverse the wall on the right and finish up the rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Yellow Wall
Date of ascent : 15/04/2012
Route name : Go-Between
Length/grade/stars : 20m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Bloody Fingers.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slab leftwards past three tiny overlaps, then continue direct to reach the final shield. A thin, left-slanting crack cuts into the shield and gives a delightful finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Holyhead Mountain Ramp D
Date of ascent : 15/04/2012
Route name : Titanic 100
Length/grade/stars : 32m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Teenage Kicks.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the shallow groove in the left side of the gully and a short, steep wall to gain the upper gully (optional belay). Make a bold step right onto the wall and follow the flake cracks to an earthy slope. Cross this rightwards and finish up a broken ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 30/04/2012
Route name : Coco Crack
Length/grade/stars : 9m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty metres left (East) of the wooden gate below the graveyard wall at Llanbadrig Church; the wall changes to a fence. From here, descend the grass slope and rocks to arrive at the top of a hidden grey wall. The wall forms the landward side of a narrow channel formed by an "attached" rock island. The routes start from a small recess at high tide level on the left (looking out) side of the wall. This is gained by a short abseil, or by down-climbing (VD!).

Pitch descriptions:
Move left from the recess and follow a short ramp up leftwards to reach a flake crack; which is followed to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 30/04/2012
Route name : Channel Lure
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Chanel Groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow Chanel groove to below the slight bulge; then step a further 1 metre left, before launching up the steep black wall to a pleasnt finish up the flaky grey wall.

Additional info:
Short routes, but bags of atmosphere!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Craig Badrig
Date of ascent : 30/04/2012
Route name : Non Molestar
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Molesting Mollusc.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby corner to the triangular roof, and pull around the left side of this to finish up the juggy cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Gogarth
Crag : Craig Badrig Area
Date of ascent : 30/04/2012
Route name : Chanel Groove
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Coco Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow Coco Crack to the flake crack; then step 1 metre left and pull through a slight bulge to gain the groove, and finish up this.