Barry Clarke New Routes - Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn

Note: New routes have been submitted by Barry Clarke a CC member. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Both Barry and the CC would welcome any comments.

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 16/06/2011
Route name : Choo Choo
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Sixty metres right of Nexus 6 is a steep wall with a right-slanting fault. Start below the right arête of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the arête and groove above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 16/06/2011
Route name : Chattanooga
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Choo Choo.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant wall on positive crimps. The right-trending crack and slab above, 3 metres right give a Phwee (8m VD 16.06.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Crai Allt Maenderyn Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 16/06/2011
Route name : Squiggle
Length/grade/stars : 14m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
One hundred and twenty metres below and right (facing out) of Jug Rehab is a dome marking the top of a series of slabs. Start 2 metres right of the flat block below the centre of the slabs.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up, then trend left up the main slab on "squiggly" striaitions.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 16/06/2011
Route name : Giggle
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Squiggle atop a block.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up, then left to follow the balder slab and the short scoop above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 19/06/2011
Route name : Rhyd Ddu Central
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Squiggle.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab directly above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 19/06/2011
Route name : A Real Hoot
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres left of Squiggle.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend slightly leftwards up the steeper slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn ( p 48)
Date of ascent : 19/06/2011
Route name : Loco Motion
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifty metres above Squiggle ( in the direction of Snowdon), is a slabby wall identified by a wing-like roof forming a slanting cleft on its right-hand side. Start at the foot of the slanting cleft.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Slab climb or chimney the cleft (height dependent!) to reach a bulge. Pull through the bulge at the crackline; step immediately right and climb the fine wall above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 19/06/2011
Route name : Deltic
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Loco Motion.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right onto the lip of the wing-like roof and follow the vague rib above. Neat and elegant throughout!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 19/06/2011
Route name : Throstle's Nest Junction
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Deltic.

Pitch descriptions:
Meander up the mottled slab, keeping just right of the flake.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 19/06/2011
Route name : Bo Bo
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres left of Throstle's Nest Junction.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the dark slab, trending slightly rightwards.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 19/06/2011
Route name : Co Co
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 6 metres left of Bo Bo.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab via a small overlap and a steepening.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Fairy Quell
Length/grade/stars : 13m S
Climbers : B J Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Proceding a further 1 kilometre along the main track from Chwarel Ffridd Isaf a wall is crossed ( this is 50m short of where the Snowdon footpath breaks off left from the main track). In the field on the right and 30 metres away are a series of slabby walls forming a rocky knoll; which when viewed from the North appears vaguely reminiscent of The Lion and The Lamb above Grasmere (O S Ref 582 525). Start at the left toe of the slabby walls at a left-trending crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack for 3 metres, step left and gain the top of the flake. Finish up the delicate rib above. Quite good, but a bit furry.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Siding
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite Fairy Quell is a short wall offering two interesting miniatures.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the wall, finishing just left of a curving crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Buffer Stop
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of Siding at a recess.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the recess, then pull leftwards through the small roof. Tiptoe right and finish up the crack in the nose.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Class of 66
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Fairy Quell and just left of a pointed boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend leftwards up the slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Rheilfordd
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 11 metres right of Class of 66 and just right of a large flake magically attached to the main mass.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the quartz-marked rib, then the rib itself.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Ontario Haul
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Rheilfordd.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the tricky brown slab on the right, then the left side of the headwall past a spike.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Chuffing
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twenty-five metres around and to the right of Ontario Haul is a buttress overhung by a large roof. Start below the centre of the roof.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp rightwards and pull into the mossy scoop (taking care with the blocks!). Follow the scoop to easier ground and an optional finish up the flake crack set in the right sidewall of the large roof.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Puffing
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 9 metres right of Chuffing below a ledge at 3 metres set in an impending wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the ledge from the right, and continue slightly leftwards up the impending wall to gain a large scoop, and finish up this.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 20/06/2011
Route name : Waunfawr the Money
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite Puffing is a buttress with a steep left wall and an easy-angled rib on its right. Start at the foot of the rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the easy-angled rib. The slab just right gives a good scramble S-Train (12m Mod 20.06.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : Terminus
Length/grade/stars : 12m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Forty metres left of Jug Rehab the crag terminates at a slabby wall bordered by a slanting rib on its left and a flake crack on its right. Start below the slanting rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant rib.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : Walschaerts
Length/grade/stars : 14m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres down and right of Terminus.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a short slab to gain a collapsing heather ledge and loose flake. Continue slightly leftwards up the slabby wall to reach a short corner. Up this, and trend right to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : Platform 5
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres LEFT of Terminus at an ill-defined rib in a broken wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib, pull through the slight bulge, and finish up the pleasant slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : 4-6-2
Length/grade/stars : 18m Mod
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 20 metres left of Platform 5, where the broken wall ends at a low-angled ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Wheel your way up the pleasant ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Craig Allt Maenderyn (p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : EWS
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres up and left of 4-6-2.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the brown slab and rib above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area ( p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : Points
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Siding.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left just above the bog, then tiptoe rightwards up the slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area ( p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : Slider
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Buffer Stop.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right edge of the rightwards-trending ramp. The bulging wall 1 metre left is great fun; Paxman (6m S 06.07.11).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn
Crag : Chwarel Ffridd Isaf Area (p 48)
Date of ascent : 06/07/2011
Route name : Smokebox
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Puffing.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Gain the ledge set in the impending wall. Step right and follow the thin crack and rib above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2011
Route name : Silver Fox
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Forty-five metres below and left of The Magic Sod and 8 metres left of the fence; a small tiangular buttress with a large flake at its foot rises just above the scree. Start at the cleft on the left side of the flake below a thin, diagonal crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the thin diagonal crack and the smooth groove above, with interest.

Additional info:
The Magic Sod was repeated; suggest upgrade to VD! Access to this crag may be ok now as the land has been leased to an Angling Club?

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2011
Route name : Car Stairs
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Silver Fox.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack on the right-hand side of the flake. Make a high step up the rib to gain the upper slab and continue up to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2011
Route name : Holbeck
Length/grade/stars : 11m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The second scarp (the one with the majority of routes on), terminates at its very bottom end at a squat buttress. Sixty metres left (looking in) is a fine little wall with slanting cracklines, standing just above a ruined farmhouse. Start at the right end of the wall at a recess.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up rightwards over loose blocks (or walk in from the right); to reach and climb a wide crack.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2011
Route name : Ruin Crack
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Holbeck.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up into a slanting groove, then pull out left to follow the pleasant crack leftwards to finish just right of the prominent pink block.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2011
Route name : Silver Streak
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Ruin Crack at the foot of a left-rising quartz gangway.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the gangway until just short of the white corner. Finish up the steep wall, starting up, then keeping immediately right of the thin cracks. The white corner itself gives a couple of stiff pulls; Tractive Effort (7m S 01.11.11.).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2011
Route name : Toton
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Tractive Effort.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the wide crack, then the right side of the steep wall above; on improving, but hidden holds.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 06/01/2012
Route name : Spad Crack
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Eighty metres left of Toton are two grey walls facing down the valley. The right-hand wall has three cracks near its left end. Start below the left-hand crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a rib and gain the crack (loose blocks). Follow the crack, just right of the ironstone) to a small overlap and finish up the slab above; keeping just left of the wide crack. The twin cracks immediately right are Coupling (11m VD 06.01.12).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 15/01/2012
Route name : Crickle Wood
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Seventy metres below Terry Tomb Tome, is a squat buttress with a quartz-marked right flank and a recessed front face. Start at a flake at the left end of the right flank of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake and slabs above to below a rather dirty overhanging crack. Pull leftwards onto the rib, and finish up the steep corner on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 15/01/2012
Route name : Mallard
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres up and right of Crickle Wood below a niche with a scooped floor.

Pitch descriptions:
Bridge up, then step left into the niche. Pull over a small bulge, step right and finish up the quartzy slabs.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 15/01/2012
Route name : Stanier
Length/grade/stars : 14m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Thirty metres to the right (looking in) of Mallard is a slabby buttress at the same level. Start at a small flat-topped pinnacle at the toe of this buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step awkwardly off the flat-topped pinnacle, and continue up using the poor rounded holds to gain a ledge. Follow the pleasant rib to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 15/01/2012
Route name : 999
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 12 metres above and right of Stanier, at the foot of a V-groove with a pink, quartz-splattered slab forming its left side.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Bridge up, until it becomes feasible to launch up the impending wall on the right. Move up, then right to the rib and finish up the ridge above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Clogwyn y Garreg (p 57)
Date of ascent : 15/01/2012
Route name : Marche Militaire
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres LEFT of Stanier at an old stone wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby wall and keep right of the tree. Move up the next slab leftwards to finish up the nice thin crack in the headwall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Castell (p 90)
Date of ascent : 21/03/2012
Route name : Ripples of Laughter
Length/grade/stars : 25m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of The Brown Runnel at a flat block. Descent: down the gully immediately left (looking in).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up rightwards to gain a small ledge at 5 metres. Step up left and follow the slab to a ledge and tiny spike runner below the headwall. Climb a crack for 3 metres and finish up the slab on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn
Crag : Castell (p 90)
Date of ascent : 21/03/2012
Route name : Tolkienesque
Length/grade/stars : 20m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Eighteen metres right of Doctor Butt Says It's Easy a slab rises above a heather terrace at 6 metres. Start roughly in the centre of the terrace, gained from the right, at a white, left-trending scoop. Descent: traverse left (looking in) along a terrace and descend the gully as for Ripples of Laughter.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb leftwards up the scoop and continue up the slab; before moving right onto the green streak. Follow this, and pass a steepening at a vague crack above and left. Finish up the holdless, but easy-angled upper slab.

Additional info:
The climbing here is very good- but don't expect a lot of gear! It's not as quick-drying as the guidebook suggests- allow 2 dry days! A good indicator is the path up from the lake which follows a stream bed- if the stream is nearly dry- then the crag should be dry!