New Routes – Pembroke Stackpole & Lydstep (Barry Clarke)

Start location:
Start as for Chocolate Brownies.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a left-facing corner and continue up the left-hand and thinner of the twin cracks above.

Start location:
Start midway between Sea Bass and Whiting.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Sustained climbing on small holds leads up the slab. Eventually a thin crack on the right gives access to a finish up the arête. Protection is good, but small.

Start location:
The main feature of the southern end of Saddle Point is a low peninsula reef jutting out towards Church Rock. Above its inland end a soooped out ledge, backed by shallow caves is out of reach of the sea, save for the very highest tides. Another feature is a curious rusty pipe wedged into a crack just right of the caves. Start below the rusty pipe.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb past the pipe and gain the spiky break which traverses leftwards above the lip of the shallow caves. Follow the break and make the crucial pull around left to easier ground. Bizarre, but fun!

Start location:
Start as for Fossil Fool.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb stepped rocks up rightwards and finish up a short corner. The pleasant ridge on the right overlooks a beautiful green grotto; Green Grotto Ridge (9m VD Clarke 25.7.12).

Start location:
A stylish right-to-left ascent of the back wall of the bulbous point itself. Start in the gully opposite East Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull across onto the wall and move leftwards to reach a short, overhanging, black corner. Muscle up this to gain a shelf. Tiptoe left and pull up another short corner; before following the ramps leftwards to a finish on the summit. Escape by down-climbing carefully back to the neck!

Start location:
Approach as for Quartz to gain the middle of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the smoothest sections of the slab upwards.

Start location:
Fifteen metres left (looking out) of the Quartz blowhole is an easy-angled curving corner. Start at its base, gained by scrambling down a ramp just left of the blowhole.

Pitch descriptions:
Leave the corner immediately and move right on flakes to reach a ridge. Follow this ridge, and easier ground above it to finish up the right side of the fine, grey slab.

Start location:
Approach by descending the East ridge of the Cove as for Giraffes. Traverse leftwards around the ridge for 3 metres to gain a small ledge just above high tide level and below a black left-leaning corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the corner, then using the higher crack for the hands continue up the fine, sustained, left-slanting line to a hollow. Large holds lead up to the ridge and easier ground.

Start location:
Start as for Carrera Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Move left for 1 metre and climb the left-trending system of thin cracks up the wall. Climb the right side of the circular block and finish up the brown scoop. Excellent climbing!

Start location:
Start as for Banderas.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 4 metres to reach the right edge of an alcove. Follow the steep rounded cracks above to below the circular block. Pass this to its left and move up to the large roof. Exit right and finish up the brown scoop of Banderas. Another fine climb on the sidewall of the Cove!

Start location:
Start as for Opal.

Pitch descriptions:
1 20m 4b Climb Opal for 3 metres, then descend a ramp leftwards into a corner (thresd). Continue up the slab leftwards below an impending wall to reach a groove. Move across and up the smooth slabs on the left to reach a stance on a rib below another groove. 2 12m 4a Enter the groove and climb up to the bulges. Trend rightwards below these to ventually reach the edge on Opal. Follow this to easier ground after a couple of metres. A great little adventure!

Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Of His Bones at a stalactite-like rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull up onto the rib and gain the break awkwardly. Finish up the groove on the right. Prickly and powerful for the grade!

Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Fossil Fool at a steep corner to the right of the caves.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the steep corner, past the horizontal fangs, to the break. Continue through the bulge (thread) to the top.

Start location:
Start 5 metres below and right of Becks Slab and just left of a hole at 2 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the slab up and leftwards to join Becks Slab. Follow this for a few metres, until flakes on the left lead to a small ledge above the thin crack on Itchicoo Wall. Step left onto the turds on Fossil Turds, and move left to gain the rounded gully. Scramble up this to belays. Superb climbing!

Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Rough and Ready.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Take a rising traverse line rightwards across the steep wall using pockets (usually jugs, provided they are not over-occupied by sea-life!) for 4 metres to a less steep area. Pull up to a ledge and traverse left for 2 metres; before climbing a flaky corner and short wall above to gain the crest of the easy-angled promontory. Very low tide required, but the soft shingle may provide a cushion!

Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Daphnia Slab at a wide recess.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb through a scoopy wall, then follow the faint mid-height break rightwards across the slab. From its right edge, climb the pleasant, grey slabby headwall to a step left at the top break.

Start location:
Eight metres right of the start of Offshore Drift is a jug-plastered brown wall rising from mid-tide ledges. Gain the ledges either by abseil, or by down-climbing a left-slanting (looking out) ramp; commencing 5 metres left (looking out) of Offshore Drift. Start 2 metres left of the bottom of the descent ramp at a short red groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the red groove, cross the descent ramp and continue up a black wall and shallow groove to a cautious finish up blocky ground.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the black groove to reach the descent ramp. Continue up the groove above, branching left to finish.

Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Well Hill below a groove bounding a small tower to its right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to gain the start of the descent ramp.

Additional info:
The name- the potent Bitter beer sold at the Lydstep Tavern!

Start location:
Start as for Baggywrinkle.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left for 1 metre to a small ledge and follow the cracks above to a leftwards finish up a gangway.

Start location:
Start on the beach at the base of the gully (very low tide only!).

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the gully direct, except for a short diversion onto the left wall near the bottom. The main dificulties are the chest-crushing moves past the constriction near the top. The grade is anyones’ guess!

Start location:
Starat 10 metres left of East Chimney on lower ledges below a grey slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the grey slab, trending slightly rightwards. When the vegetation intrudes, finish up the rib on the right to gain a prickly stance. A short traverse right reaches the SE descent ridge.

Start location:
Twenty metres RIGHT od East Chimney and 8 metres left of the SE Ridge is a corner groove with an attractive slab on its right. Start below the corner groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab via a left-trending thin crack; until a white flake on the right leads to the Ridge. The corner groove itself gives the pleasant As Punch (15m D Clarke 17.9.12); with an escape rightwards below the top bulge.

Additional info:
Despite the friendly grades, this is a serious place! The SE Ridge descent has loose rock and prickly vegetation; and deserves respect, even from seasoned Alpinists!

Start location:
Approach by following the long scramble descent from the left. After 80 metres an area of white rock is reached; just where the crag above begins to pull itself together (near the left edge of the photo, p 330!). From here descend a slanting groove to high tide level, and traverse left (West) for 10 metres to gain mid-tide ledges below the first sheet of slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the left-slanting straightforward ramp to reach a bulge. Layback through this and continue up the corner to gain the finishing terraces.

Start location:
Start 9 metres left of Old Soul below a groove with yellow pancakes on its right wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to an awkward finish.

Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Merry below a black and grey slab with a thin crack slanting across it.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the crack in the black rock to a ledge on the rib. Then follow the left-slanting crack in the grey rock to a finish just right of the corner.

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Posh Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across a tiny zawn and follow a striaited slab rightwards to gain a ridge. Follow this to the summit.

Start location:
Start 8 metres right of Arriv Ridge below the first groove reached on the west face of Becks Point itself. Midlow tide!

Pitch descriptions:
4a The groove proves straightforward, except for a smooth section at 5 metres.

Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Search Groove below the THIRD groove reached on the W face; identified by a wide crack at 6 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step left and climb the barnacles to a ledge. Follow the right side of the ridge above. Somewhat dainty, with scant protection!

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Vigata below the fourth groove; identified by a large thread at 5 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the barnacled rib on the left, then step right and follow the intermittant flakes up the left wall of the fourth groove. A short, ochre-coloured Knife-edge then leads to the top.

Start location:
The right wall (looking in) of the Zawn diminishes in height and terminates at an easy-angled ridge pointing seaward. Start at the foot of this ridge, reached by scrambling.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left (into the Zawn) for 8 metres to below a dark groove. Make a steep pull into the groove and finish up it.

Start location:
Approach as for Senor to below the dark groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Continue the traverse leftwards; after 7 metres make an awkward move around a leaning rib. Move up and leftwards for 6 metres to gain a sloping ledge below a clean-cut corner (optional belay). Climb the corner with interest and finish up the crystalline tower.

Start location:
Start as for Barnacle Bill.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the white crackseam up the smaller slab.

Start location:
Sixty metres right (towards the Quay) of Barnacle Bill is a small zawn with an undercut, South-facing, grey wall. Scramble down the stepped ridge forming the right side of the grey wall. Start at the top of a short chimney on the right (looking out) just before the ridge vanishes into the sea.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb down the chimney for a couple of metres (mid-tide), and step left onto the grey wall. Traverse left for 3 metres, then move up to a high line of leftwards-rising holds. Follow these, until after 12 metres, a step down gains a ledge and a welcome breather. Climb up and continue leftwards along a ramp to finish.

Start location:
Start at the foot of the corner of Rain Falls, Tide Rises.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin cracks in the right wall of the corner to a niche. From the top of the niche step right and finish up the left edge of the slab of While the Cat’s Away. Contrived, but good!

Start location:
Start 1 metre LEFT of Pollock.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the right side of the left arête of the main slab. Enjoyable and satisfying!

Start location:
Approach by scrambling down a grey ridge located 22 metres left (looking in ) of the approach blowhole to Down and Out, and 16 metres right of the start of the descent down to Daphnia Slab. The descent leads to good ledges 2 metres above high-tide level. To the left is a small beautiful zawn; liberally coated in twinkling crystals (hence the suggested name: Chandelier Zawn?). Start on the good ledges at the foot of the descent ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb easily up leftwards and stride across a chimney. Tiptoe left above the bulge, then descend, before making a long stride across the main cleft of the zawn to gain good holds at the base of a shallow groove. Move up the groove for a couple of metres, then finish up the dark pocketed slab on the left.

Start location:
Start as for Privateer.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow Privateer to the groove immediately left of the impending wall. Climb the groove to the roof, and make a fine traverse rightwards below it; before moving up to the edge of Opal. Follow this to easier ground. Another good outing!

Start location:
Approach as for Octogenarian’s Outing. Start 15 metres left of the foot of the descent ridge on high-tide ledges below a small, grey, left-slanting ramp; and just left of a short overhanging groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the ramp and the cracks above and left to reach the descent ridge.

Start location:
Twelve metres left of Burgage the sidewall of the descent ridge ends at a left-slanting chimney with a black-speckled inset slab just to its left. Start below this slab (low-tide).

Pitch descriptions:
Gain and follow the left edge of the black-speckled slab, past a steepening to easier ground.

Additional info:
Donjon and Burgage are archaic architectural term referring to castellated towns and cities!

Start location:
Eighteen metres left of Donjon a slab is cut at one-third height by a large overhanging wall. Scramble down the ridge to the left (West), and continue down the subsidiary, square slab below to low-tide level. Start 6 metres right of the right edge of the subsidiary slab at a small alcove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb pockets up the slab leftwards to gain a short corner inset in the left end of a lower strip roof. Pull over and trend leftwards up the upper slab via the left-slanting corner crack.

Start location:
Start as for Dream Crystal on the good ledges below the descent ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Make a descending traverse leftwards into the zawn to reach the left-hand of two circular grooves (the one with a tiny through slot in its left wall). Climb the rib immediately left to gain Dream Crystal where it strides across the main cleft. Move up delicately, then step awkwardly left into the main cleft, up this, rapidly easing!

Additional info:
Careful judgement required for this one. The start cannot be reached at high-tide, and a toe of rock juts out below the initial rib.

Start location:
Start as for Super Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the beautiful white rib, forming the left edge of the slab, with little protection.

Start location:
Start 12 metres left (West) of the cave at the start of The Lost Handbag etc; on a small ledge at high-tide level below a short grey ramp, and just before the cliff swings around into Marble Arch. The ledge is gained by abseil or loose down-climbing!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the grey ramp and finish up the rib on the right, keeping left of the loose dyke.

Start location:
Follow the fisherman’s path down all the way until it levels out at a series of sun-drenched ledges. From here down-climb (Mod) or abseil down a slabby groove on the right (South) to high-tide level. Start at the base of the slabby groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left around the rib and traverse left for a couple of metres, past a wide crack to reach a bottomless crack. Climb this awkwardly, utilizing the chicken-heads, to better holds. Follow the left side of the rib above, and finish up the rib itself; being aware of the reef below which threatens from the left!

Start location:
Start at the foot of the descent groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right onto the dark, crimpy wall and follow this trending rightwards.

Start location:
Start as for Restless Sky.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for 3 metres and follow the right-facing groove to the top.

Additional info:
Would be DWS; except fro a projecting flange of rock below the groove!

Start location:
Start as for Sculptured.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Sculptured to below its groove. Step right and follow the cracks and slabby wall up rightwards; pleasant climbing!

Start location:
The left side (looking out) of Stackpole Quay comprises a stepped, broken buttress. After 30 metres of ledge traversing or walking (low-tide) the buttress improves at a wide gully spanned by a large block. Suggested name for area; Stackpole Quay North? Start at the left wall of the gully below the right-hand of two left-slanting ramps.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the right-hand ramp to a ledge. Gain the rib on the left by a disproportionately difficult move and follow it to easier ground.

Start location:
Start as for Disproportionate.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the flake crack up and rightwards into a niche in the left wall of the gully. Swing around left and traverse the break leftwards below the roof; before pulling over to easier ground. Quite exciting and well-protected!

Start location:
Scrambling up the wide gully and squeezing through the hole reveals a black slab on the right, riven by four cracks. Or, walk along the shore. Start below the first crack in from the left edge of the black slab on a mid-tide ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab just right of the crack. The left edge of the slab is pleasant, Jet (10m D Clarke 11.11.12)

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab just right and the blanker section above.

Start location:
Start 5 metres above and right of Boot Polish, at a left-trending corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the corner to a ledge. the continuation crack gives a short tussle!

Additional info:
The name is Welsh for In Memoriam ( for Rememberence Sunday)!

Start location:
Start as for Overlap Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks diagonally rightwards for 10 metres; then follow the wavy, grey streak up the slab to eventually reach the right edge of a horizontal recess at two-thirds height. Continue up the excellent white seam above to the top.

Start location:
A couple of metres right of Er Cof a black ramp slants up leftwards; this gives a down-climb (Mod) or a straightforward abseil to an area well above high-tide level. Above the black ramp is an impending wall with a cave to its right. Start at the centre of the impending wall below a dark, left-slanting gangway.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the dark gangway to the second of two small roofs. Step left into the face cracks and follow these to a recess on the left; from where a steep pull gains the top.

Start location:
Start at the back of the cave 5 metres right of haven Cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
Bridge up, then move up rightwards through the cleft to daylight. Continue up blocks to reach the top of a partially-detached buttress, from where a short wall leads to the top.

Start location:
Start 8 metres around and to the right of The Snug at the front of the partially-detached buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-trending crack to a ledge, then the shallow chimney above to gain the summit of the partially-detached buttress, and finish as for The Snug.

Start location:
A fine slab forms the right flank of the partially-detached buttress, with a particularly striking left edge. Start below this left edge.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the right side of the left edge of the slab all the way to the summit, and finish as for The Snug. Microwires in a thin crack may give a hint of protection!

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Eventide.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab, then the twin cracks in the corner to the summit and finish as for The Snug.

Start location:
To the right is the most impressive wall in this section, riven by left-slanting cracklines. Moving rightwards from this wall for 12 metres reveals a dark slab. This is best avoided as it is threatened by a car-sized block above and left, a loose overhanging top cliff and a loose corner on its right. Right of the loose corner an attractive grey slab slants above it. Start at a subsidiary black rib below and left of the grey slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the black rib to a blocky ledge. Step onto the grey slab and follow it, keeping right of the left edge. Belay 25 metres back at a cluster of small trees. The cracks in the corner immediately right give Fast Falls (15m D Clarke 23.11.12).

Start location:
Fourteen metres right of Scavenger Two is a tapering slab whose top section merges with grassy slabs. Start at the base of the tapering slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the tapering slab to the grass. Belay, (medium cams useful!); and down-climb the corner just to the right (looking in).

Start location:
Thirty metres across a flat boulder beach from Scavenger Two is an island. The sunny South face (in view!) consists of a series of prow-like buttresses either side of a dark gully, just right of centre (available 3 hours either side of low-tide!). Start at the foot of the dark gully. The gully gives a slithery down-climb (Diff), or abseil. Note: The boulder beach can be reached more quickly from the Coast Path 150 metres North of the Quay itself!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the block in the gully for 3 metres, then traverse steeply leftwards onto the prow. Move up, then step right and follow the right side of the ridge to the top.

Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Exit Stage left.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short rib, then make a bold swing up and rightwards to gain the prow. Scramble up the ridge to finish.

Start location:
Follow the steps down and continue into the cove. Walk seawards and after 40 metres a square-cut buttress is reached on the left (looking out). The buttress gives three pleasant, sheltered little routes; but is wave-washed at high-tide! Start below the left edge of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the edge and follow the right side to a hugging finish.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Guardian Edge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks and finish up the thin crack on the left.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Guardian Cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Scratch up, and follow the straight crack. Surmount a small bulge and finish up the triangular-shaped wall.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of On Guard, below a cracked wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the cracked wall, past a spike, and finish up the little rib and slab above.

Start location:
Start as for Exit Stage Left.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble rightwards up a ramp; then climb the front of the buttress to a ledge. Start the upper ridge by a steep pull on its left and continue to the top.

Additional info:
Ok- small crags around and about the Quay are not a major venue, but they are well sheltered and catch a bit of Winter morning sunshine. It is possible to enjoy cragging here whilst Bosherston is being well and truly bashed by the westerlies!

Start location:
Approach as for Quaynly Thought to the top of the chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and short, steep crack to gain and follow the left-slanting, ochre-coloured gangway to the top.

Start location:
Start at the foot of the deep chimney 2 metres right of Sunlight Causes Rancidity.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the deep chimney and pull out left to a ledge. Bridge and layback the corner, using both the third and fourth cracks; and move right to finish.

Start location:
From the top of the central arch scramble down the landward ridge (towards the entrance to the Bay!). This ridge forms the top of the western wall of a canyon-like zawn; connected to the main cave by a spooky passage. Start at the foot of the descent ridge at high-tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse leftwards into the zawn. After 6 metres a shallow groove with a short chimney above is reached; climb these features.

Start location:
Start as for Crusty Dust to the shallow groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Continue the traverse for a further 2 metres to a dark groove and follow this to the top. Juggy and atmospheric!

Start location:
Start as for Dill Road.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 1 metre, descend slightly and make a steep pull into the crack above. Follow this to the top.

Start location:
Approach as for Whitewash to high-tide level and traverse left. The first feature reached after 5 metres is a black overhanging wall with a head-height shelf of rock. Start below the left side of the shelf.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull steeply up the overhanging wall, and gain the slab above and left; finish up this.

Start location:
Start as for Shelf Life.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 7 metres (tricky at really high-tides or rough seas!) to below a left- facing corner in the dark rock. Climb the corner and finish rightwards up the slabs.

Start location:
Start 10 metres left of Slick Sunset across a wide shallow depression (which gives a down-climb, Diff, or abseil, to good ledges above high-tide level!). Belay below a line of flakes running up a grey wall. Note also that Slick Sunset can be reached from here should the Whitewash traverse prove impassable!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flakes, very pleasant; the upper overlapping slabs, less so!

Start location:
Start as for Canyonesque.

Pitch descriptions:
From below the dark groove, step left and bridge across the back of the zawn. Continue up to the capping roof; from where steep moves on the left wall gain the top.

Additional info:
At really high tides the entry traverse may be impractible; in which case it is possible to down-climb the dark groove of Canyonesque and step left to gain the back of the zawn. This gives a fine, exciting outing!

Start location:
Thirty metres left of Ramshore Ridge the final feature of the South face of the island is a curving slab. Start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left edge of the curving slab and finish up the small wall on the right.

Additional info:
So called because the recurring numerical date 121212 will not occur again for 89 years! Yes you’re right; I must get out more (less?).

Start location:
Fifty metres North of Slab 12 12 12 across the rocky bay a triangular stack stands in front of a series of large caves. Start at the foot of the seaward fin of the stack (medium tide and below!). Descent:- down the ramp system on the South face or abseil.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the fin to the summit.

Start location:
Seven metres right of Sandcastle is a narrow sea channel. Cross the channel and traverse a further 6 metres right to below a niche containing a curious cluster of rock leaves.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to the niche, then follow a diagonal line of rightwards-slanting shelves. Continue direct on the grey rock, and finish up a short left-trending corner.

Start location:
Twenty-five metres right of Fin Bar the first feature right of the large caves is a jug-plastered wall with a chimney in its left flank leading to two cracks. Start below this chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the chimney and the right-hand crack above to a finish up a slab.

Additional info:
Take care with the flaky rock in this area. It’s as though the rock has already begun its change into sandstone; which commences in earnest 300 metres further North!

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Metam Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull steeply up the rib and continue up the right side of the vague ridge above to a finish up the slab of Metam Crack. Four metres right of Amorphic the jug-plastered wall and slab above give Morph (19m Mod Clarke 17.12.12); which can also be descended to give a convenient descent.

Start location:
Start 12 metres right of Amorphic below a left-slanting dark ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the ramp for 4 metres, then trend rightwards to gain a ledge at the left end of a large roof. Avoiding easy ground on the left, move right and follow the exposed gangway rightwards above the lip of the large roof to the top.

Start location:
Fifteen metres right of Orphic Power is an impressive wall, with a corner crack in its centre and a dark cleft on its left. Start at a short corner below the dark cleft.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short corner to a haven ledge, then move up left to the dark cleft. Follow the left rib of the cleft, past a steepening and continue up the left-slanting ramp to the top. Straightforward, but scary!

Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Sackless, below a red and white pocketed wall.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the pockets and flakes above to a ledge. Continue up to pinnacle belays.

Start location:
Start as for dream Crystal at the foot of the descent ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up leftwards and stride across the chimney (as for Dream Drystal). Follow the groove directly above to a steeper finish.

Start location:
Twelve metres left (looking out) of the top of Red Slab, another gangway-type slab slants down to the sea. Abseil down the slab to a scoop stance below the left rib (looking in) of the slab, and just above high-tide level. Pause near the end of the abseil to admire the natural arches in the right-bounding sidewall of the slab!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib and the fine grey groove above, to a pleasant scramble up the ridge to finish.

Start location:
On the opposite wall of the canyon across from the start of the entry traverse to Crusty Dust etc, is a sculptured groove with red dollops on its right wall. Start by crossing the canyon (low-tide) to the groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the sculptured groove, pulling directly through the bulge above to gain the finishing ledges.

Additional info:
Merry Christmas!

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Sprouted Red.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull up into the shallow groove and follow this, before taking the steep wall above to the finishing ledges.

Start location:
Eighty metres South (in the direction of St Govan’s), from the Trevallen guard post is a small grassy headland. A further stroll for 15 metres South reveals a cove containing a prominent cone-like grassy summit with a col to its right. A steep grassy path leads down to the col. To the left (looking out) is a circular boulder-filled bay. At its far side is a remarkable slab topped by a loose overhanging cliff. The bay is reached by a steep scramble, and the base of the slab is available for 2 hours either side of low tide. Start on a boulder below the left edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step left and follow a ramp up leftwards to a bulge. Overcome this on its right-hand side and continue up the left edge of the slab.

Additional info:
All the routes finish at the top of the slab below the loose overhanging cliff. Descent by abseil or by a down-climb based around the centre of the slab. In ascent this gives Centralis (12m Mod Clarke 27.12.12). This is an unusual and interesting place to climb; but awareness must be kept upon the the overhangs above where loose material threatens the slab. Even water droplets from 30 metres above are painful!

Start location:
Start as for Sombre Aero.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make delicate moves up and rightwards onto the front of the slab. Continue up the slab just right of the edge and finish up the smoother slab past an overlap.

Start location:
Start 3 metres LEFT of the RIGHT edge of the slab at a rightwards-rising crackline.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crackline, past an awkward steepening.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Parasol and 1 metre left of the right edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb rightwards up to a ledge on the edge. Make a tricky pull over the left side of the bulge and continue up the crack to the top.

Additional info:
Older climbers who have watched the World War Two movie 633 Squadron will probably have no wish to climb on this slab!

Start location:
The seaward entrance to the zawn is guarded by a square buttress on its left-hand side. This buttress has a particularly fine seaward face and a more broken face facing the beach. The broken face is teminated to its left by a gully which almost detaches the square buttress. Start 8 metres left of the gully at a prominent corner crack roughly in the centre of a grey wall (mid-tide and below!).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner crack and finish to the right. Descent:- Either to the left (looking in), across vegetation, then a steep scramble to the beach. Or to the right, descending a short awkward wall to gain the top of the square buttress, followed by a descent of its broken face. Or by abseil!

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of VPO Corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall, followed by a blunt rib above to finish as for VPO Corner.

Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Prosen Wall below the left rib of the gully.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rib and scooped groove above; before moving right and finishing up a spiky rib.

Start location:
Start at the back of the gully immediately right of Waltz.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the gully and pull out rightwards onto the square buttress. Move up, then stride leftwards across the gully (tricky for short climbers,4c!). Follow the slab leftwards to finish up the spiky rib of Waltz.

Start location:
Approach as for Sombre Aero to about 4 metres above high-tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left (looking in) onto the seaward face of the cone-like grassy summit. Descend the lower of two ramps for 4 metres, then pull leftwards across a wall. Descend again for a couple of metres, before climbing a black wall to ledges. Amble up diagonally leftwards and escape around the left edge.

Start location:
Fifteen metres right (looking out) of the finish of The Phallic Traverse is a small, partially-detached stack, joined to the main mass by a neck. The stack is adorned by two rusty metal stakes. Start at the lower of the stakes, just right (looking out) of the neck.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend a short slab and pull rightwards onto a grey crispy slab on the stack itself. Move right to the ridge and follow this to the summit. Return to the neck by abseil or by spiralling down the holds on the North face.

Start location:
Twenty metres right of Gwobr Glan Mor past a tall cave, is a slab divided by a rightwards-rising ochre-coloured rake. The rake divides the upper grassy section from the lower, cleaner, pleasant section of the slab. Start below this slab. Descent:- either abseil, or scramble down the rake, followed by a slide down the wide crack near the edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a rounded, sea-polished groove to the left end of a haven ledge. Step left and follow a barnacled slab; before trending rightwards up the slab, keeping just right of the edge.

Start location:
Start as for Hols.

Pitch descriptions:
From the point of arrival at the haven ledge, follow the diagonal crack up rightwards, past a niche to gain the rake.

Start location:
Start on the haven ledge, 3 metres right of Wave Back Crack, below a fist-wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the fist-wide crack to gain and finish as for Wave Back Crack.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Queen of Stones.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the ramp system up rightwards and finish up the groove in the front of the buttress.

Start location:
Start 6 metres right of Stones Throw at a corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner and finish up the groove above and left, with a step right to finish.

Start location:
Start as for Krispie Corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the holds up rightwards to a good ledge below a black rib. Climb the left side of the rib to the top.

Start location:
Twenty-five metres right of Another Corner is a remarkable square pillar supporting the arch of an outstanding sea-cave system ( a kind of half-scale Brazen Buttress!). Start 5 metres right of the pillar at an easy rampslab slanting rightwards (very low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:
Amble up the rampslab and step rightwards to reach a ridge. Climb the ridge over a tiny arch (half a metre diameter; no heavyweights please!). Finish up a mossy flake crack.

Start location:
Approach as for The Rock Rainbow to the foot of the ridge; then traverse right for 6 metres to below a crystalline groove, protected by a short, steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall and crystalline groove to a finish rightwards.

Start location:
Start as for Haven Cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up, then follow the short, steep corner on the right until it is possible to hand-wrap the top of the grey pinnacle. Swing right and pull up to gain a resting place on top of the blocks above the cave. Climb the well-cracked grey wall on the left and step left to finish.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of the dark cleft of Overflakiness, below the central corner crack of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Walk horizontally rightwards for 7 metres and climb a short wall to a small ledge. Step right and follow a left-slanting slab; utilizing the good crack and yellow rib to its right.

Start location:
Start as for Sea Hawk Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Walk down the lower shelf rightwards for 12 metres to reach a right-slanting break line (low tide!). Follow the break line and continue to traverse rightwards, across a deep groove, before stepping up onto a gangway below block overhangs. Traverse the gangway rightwards and finish up the groove at the end of the overhangs.

Start location:
Opposite the groove and chimney of Crusty Dust is a wide chimney. Start at the top of this chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend the chimney to mid tide level and step left (looking in) around the rib. Climb the left side of the rib to the top.

Start location:
Start as for Sprouted Red.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up, then traverse rightwards, gradually ascending, to finish up Ribette.

Start location:
Ten metres LEFT of the slab containing Wave Back Crack etc, and on the left sidewall of the tall cave are two clean-cut ramps. Start at the foot of the left-hand ramp. Descent:- Either abseil (care required), or down-climb (Mod) the slab immediately left (looking in).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the left-hand ramp, and where it narrows near the top, pull over leftwards onto a gangway. Move left again to a grassy groove, belay.

Start location:
Start as for Casual Crack on the haven ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the sinuous cracks up the slab just right to the rake, pleasant.

Start location:
Twenty metres right of the slab containing Wave Back Crack etc is a cave with a tapering slab just to its right, graced by a particularly striking left edge. Start below this slab. Descent:- by abseil, or down-climb the slab and wide crack below (Diff).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a thin crak and so gain the left edge of the tapering slab. Follow the right side of the edge with much pleasure to a cosy niche below the overhangs.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Search Groove, below the second groove reached on the West face of Becks Point itself; and identified by its red colouration.

Pitch descriptions:
The groove proves pleasant and leads quickly to broken ground.

Additional info:
Heavy snow then stopped play- can you believe it!

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Snow Red, below the third groove, as for Vigata.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove, past the wide crack, to its slabbier upper section.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Catarella, at a circular cave below the fourth groove, as for Montalbano.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Bridge the cave and continue up the interesting groove.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Fazio at a higher level below the fifth groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the edge just to the left on its right-hand side for 4 metres, then the edge itself to a small overhang. Step right, and again follow the right-hand side of the edge to finish. Fine and delicate climbing! The fifth groove gives a pleasant slabby climb, up or down Pal(10m Mod Clarke 24.01.13).

Start location:
To the right of Finders Keepers a greyblue wall (no routes!) stretches rightwards. After 20 metres it terminates at a right-facing corner above a low recess; start here. Descent:- a long walk round, or abseil, or down-climb a steep crack (VD) in the seaward ridge to the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the juggy ramp and finish up the grey gangway, pleasant!

Start location:
Start 8 metres right of Skater’s Waltz, at a crack in a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the fine crack.

Start location:
The pinnacle mentioned in the approach to Not This One (p 190) is in fact, a huge square block. Start below the wide crack in the seaward face of the block. Descent:- by abseil (care required!), or down-climb (Severe) just to the right (looking out) of Busted Block.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a steep pull into the crack and follow it to the summit.

Start location:
Approach as for Up For Grabs etc, down the slabby groove; but continue down to low tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for 6 metres along the flakes to a small ledge below a crack system forming a shallow alcove. Follow the crack system to the top. A pleasantly straightforward outing!

Start location:
Nine metres left of Sprouted Red the canyon ends. Above this point a steep wall rises above high tide ledges; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up to a dark bulge, then move up and rightwards along a ramp to easier ground.

Start location:
Start as for Ramplette.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up to the dark bulge and pass this on its left-hand side. Finish directly over the small overhangs above.

Start location:
Eighteen metres left of Beyond Backpacking is a triangular cave (clearly seen on photo-topo, p 260). Ten metres left of the cave is a brown, slabby wall of unusual pumice-like rock. The wall is gained by scrambling down from the west to ledges above high tide level. The wall is defined on its left by an attractive arête; start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the arête, mainly on its left-hand side, very pleasant!

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Snow Foam.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall, then follow the flakes up and rightwards to the top.

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Fantasy Flakes, below a left-trending shallow scoop.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the shallow scoop and continue up the corner to easier ground. Fingery and delicate climbing for the grade!

Start location:
Start half a metre left of Sprouted Red.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb directly up the pockets in the wall. A fine problem, whose difficulty is height dependent!

Start location:
Sixty metres west of the fence and eastern sentry box (and 30 metres west of the finish of Clam Bake); a steep slope of grass and broken slabs leads down to comfortable stepped ledges 12 metres above the sea. To the right (looking out) from the stepped ledges the broken slabs end after 20 metres at a long groove; on the far side of which a fine, grey and crystallins slab sweeps upwards to a small overlap at its top. Start at the base of the slab at high tide level; gained by abseil or a down-climb (D) down the lower section of the groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the central seam in the slab, until it blanks out after 15 metres. Continue delicately, first slightly rightwards, then leftwards; until a straightforward move over the overlap gains easier, but looser ground and a selection of spike belays.

Start location:
From the same stepped ledges described in the approach to Aurora, abseil or down-climb (Mod) the slab below to flake ledges at high tide level. Traverse 10 metres left (looking in) around the edge of the slab to gain the base of a brown slab just left of a slanting corner (mid tide and below!).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the brown slab, relishing the blanker sections.

Additional info:
The name means sea-gull.

Start location:
Start on the flake ledges as for Gwylan.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse rightwards (looking in) for 4 metres (barnacle-dependent, may be the crux!) to reach a small cave in the right edge of the slab. Step right onto the grey rock, and follow the right edge of the slab to the top.

Additional info:
The name means a wretched coward (Olde English).

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Danube on the sloping ledge at the base of the broken face of the square buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the sloping ledge rightwards onto the seaward face of the square buttress. Climb the thin central crack in the seaward face ( this is 1 metre left of the more prominent crack). Superb, but care required as the splashdown zone is very small!

Start location:
Start at the top of the short, steep wall of Tooth Crystals. Gained by abseil, or a down-climb (VD) starting just to the right (looking out) of the finish of that climb.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right along a shelf for 8 metres to gain an impending rib at the entrance to a steep-sided zawn. Launch up the left side of the rib on dodgy-looking holds to easier ground.

Start location:
To the right of Dangermouse and Penfro the headland decreases in height to form a short cliff offering several little routes (this cliff is below the person shown in the photo-topo, p 191!). Abseil, or down-climb (D) the tip of the headland to ledges at high tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse 1 metre left and follow the shallow groove and wall above, trending leftwards.

Start location:
Start as for Zebedee, but continue the traverse leftwards for 2 metres, around a bulge to reach a crystalline wall. Traverse a further 2 metres left to gain a grey rib at the left end of the crystalline wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the grey rib.

Start location:
Start as for Zebedee.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse RIGHT for 2 metres to gain a rib at the entrance to a zawn. Follow the right side of the rib to the top.

Start location:
Immediately right of Little Eastern is a fine zawn with a slabby, pocketed right wall; and a series of grooves to its left above a jumble of boulders ( suggested name for zawn; Jumble Zawn?). Access is by abseil onto the boulders, which are usually clear at most states of the tide; but not in rough seas!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move rightwards into the shallow cave in the right wall of the zawn. Step right and climb the wall above on filigree pockets.

Start location:
Start as for The Holes in the Wall Gang.

Pitch descriptions:
Keep low from the cave and make a fine traverse out right to the arête. Follow the arête on its left side, before sloping holds on the arête itself lead to the top.

Start location:
Start as for Sundance.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Sundance out to the arête; step right around the arête and climb the hand-width crack in the narrow buttress to the top. This becomes more awkward as the crack thins near the top.

Start location:
Just seaward of the main slab is a pinnacle (clearly seen on p 335!). The pinnacle has a fine, slabby ridge pointing seaward, with two clean-cut grooves to its left. Start on a high tide ledge below the seaward ridge. Note, of course, that this ledge can only be reached from below at low tide! Descent:- by abseil or down-climb (D), down the left-hand (looking in) of the two clean-cut grooves.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks up the slabby ridge just right of centre, to the fine summit.

Start location:
Start as for Jac-y-Doo.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the slabby ridge. The right-hand of the two clean-cut grooves proves awkward near the top Don’t Get Cut Off! (10m VD Clarke 8.2.13).

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Icebergs Ahoy at the next slanting groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rightwards-slanting groove to a grassy finish and a step left near the top.

Start location:
Start 3 metres left of Old King Cole below the next sheet of slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the right side of the slab, and use the right edge to overcome a smooth section. Finish up the groove.

Start location:
Start below the corner 2 metres left of Muffet.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner, laybacking the smooth section; to a finish up the flake on the left.

Start location:
Abseil or down-climb (D), down an easy-angled slabby wall 10 metres to the right (looking out) of the descent down to Zebedee.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse 3 metres left and follow the crystalline rib to the top.

Start location:
Approach as for Peanuts to its crystalline rib. Continue the traverse leftwards for a further 5 metres across smooth slabs below a loose, flaky wall to reach a left-slanting rampgroove just before the arête.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the rampgroove and its continuation to the top.

Start location:
Approach as for Cassidy Crack, to below its hand-width crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and follow the left side of the arete to a ledge. Climb the short corner; before moving rightwards and up to finish. Excellent climbing!

Start location:
Start at the foot of Becks Crack and Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner for 3 metres, then step left and pull up into a large slot. Step left again and follow the wall above, with slight deviations, to the top. Elegant and exposed climbing, with spaced protection!

Start location:
Start below the dark groove of Canyonesque; gained by traversing in, or down-climbing (VD) the dark groove itself.

Pitch descriptions:
Stride right and follow the left side of the rib via a bulge to the top.

Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Javelin at the toe of a larger slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the toe and follow the slab to the left of the hole to gain a thin crack leading up to the cosy niche on Javelin. Descend as for that route.

Start location:
Start as for Extendable. Descent:- Either abseil, or down-climb through the hole (D, usually wet!), to gain the cosy niche of Javelin, and descend as before.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the toe and continue up the dollops to the right of the hole and the thin cracks above to reach a hollow at 15 metres. Continue up for 6 metres, then step left to belay in a large recess.

Start location:
Start around and LEFT of Javelin below a straight crack in the right wall (looking in) of the zawn; at the first boulder in the shingle, and about 12 metres in from the entrance (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the straight crack and its continuation to finish up a notch to gain Javelin. Continue up this, or descend.

Start location:
Start as for Phraze.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the straight crack for 6 metres, step left to gain the next crack, and move upwards to reach good holds in the next break. Shuffle left for 7 metres to below a scoop with a hole. Climb up past the hole, and make a final awkward pull up leftwards into the cosy niche of Javelin. Descend as for that climb.

Start location:
Eighty metres right of Iron Road (past half-a-dozen Bow-Shaped Slab look-alikes!), a low rocky promontory juts out into the sea. Above this promontory is an attractive grey slab with a left-facing corner in its left side. Start by scrambling up to the base of this corner (low tide!) Descent:- Either abseil, or down-climb (VD), a ramp and groove on the left (looking out).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left-facing corner and near its top step right and follow broken rock to the summit.

Start location:
Start on the beach 5 metres right of Blue Laguna at a gap in the promontory.

Pitch descriptions:
Straightforward climbing up the ridge gains a ledge below the grey slab. Follow the pleasant cracks in the centre of the slab and the broken rocks above to the summit.

Additional info:
As hinted at earler there is enormous potential at this slabby paradise; but there are two major problems! Firstly, the tops are shrouded in acres of dense, prickly vegetation; and secondly the bases are only clear of the sea for 2 hours around low tide, and not at all in rough seas! Good luck!

Start location:
Just right of Shenandoah is a zawn with a huge cavern in its left-hand side, capped by a massive roof (suggested name; Cavern Zawn?). To the right of the cavern a beautiful grey wall rises from the sea. Further right the wall becomes more broken and ochre-coloured. Approach by abseil, or down-climb (D) down a stepped groove on the left (looking out) side of the broken wall, to footholds at high tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
From the base of the stepped groove traverse left for 3 metres to gain a right-facing corner which borders the grey wall on its right. Climb the corner and finish leftwards along the ramp which forms the top of the grey wall.

Start location:
Approach as for Mesa to the foot of the stepped groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and follow the rib to the top.

Start location:
Approach as for Yellow Rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right around the rib and hand traverse a shelf rightwards to gain a sloping ledge below a slabby-looking corner. Climb the corner, mainly using the right wall, on suspect rock, to the top.

Start location:
The zawn immediately right of Brickfield has a central corner forming two walls at right angles. The left-hand wall is sheer; whilst the right-hand wall is slabby and jug-plastered (suggested name; Corner Zawn?). Approach by abseil down the central corner to small ledges just above high tide level. Start 2 metres right of the central corner at a shallow crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow crack, which gradually widens, to the top.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Silver Creek below the rib at the right end of the slabby wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend leftwards up the wall on glorious holds; keeping a metre or so left of the rib.

Start location:
Start as for Crazy Horse.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Traverse right across a small slab and gain a groove, follow this to a bulge. Avoid the bulge by traversing leftwards along a foot shelf and finish up the left side of the rib.

Start location:
Start as for Sioux.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the groove to the bulge and continue up the groove on the right; finishing up the right-hand of the two grooves above.

Start location:
Eight metres left of The Holes in the Wall Gang is a blowhole gully. Start below this gully on a mid-tide boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the blowhole gully and emerge into daylight. Gives a steady down-climb if dry!

Start location:
Start as for Rio Grande.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse left into the narrowing chimney forming the left corner of the zawn. Follow the chimney to the narrows and move rightwards onto the wall. Pull over the bulge above to finish.

Start location:
Start as for The Holes in the Wall Gang.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the clean-cut corner above (the right-hand of two!). Easier than it looks!

Start location:
Start as for Mesa at the foot of the corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left onto the beautiful grey wall and traverse left for 2 metres to dollop footholds at high tide level. Move up and leftwards to gain a small hole in a crackseam. Step left, then pull up into a shallow circular hollow with a thread. Continue directly upwards to the finishing ramp of Mesa.

Additional info:
Imagine all the best moves on Riders on the Storm compressed into one excellent little route; this is it! Care required at the top though as the highest boulders in the zawn bed are directly below; and need to be well covered!

Start location:
Start just right of Perfect Pitch.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a wide, ledgy recess to gain a gangway leading rightwards across the wall. Follow the gangway, awkwardly where it narrows, to near the edge of the wall. Either climb a shallow groove, or step right and finish at the edge.

Start location:
Twelve metres right (E) of the finish of Deflector Shield is another zawn. It has a wide circular groove in its centre which can be abseiled of down-climbed (D) to sloping mid tide ledges. The zawn is defined on its right by a jagged ridge, which transforms into a low rocky promontory stretching out into the sea. This ridge can be abseiled or down-climbed (D) to mid tide ledges. Star 5 metres left of the base of the central wide circular groove at a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the rib to the top.

Start location:
Start 6 metres left of the foot of the jagged ridge at a slanting groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slanting groove to the bulge; then move right to finish up a groove on shelving holds.

Start location:
Approach as for Pony Express to the dollop footholds.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left for 1 metre to gain a thin crackseam, and follow this to the small hole on Pony Express. Continue up the wall above to gain the finishing ramp of Mesa.

Start location:
Start as for Becks Arête.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the arête for 3 metres, then traverse right along the thin breaks all the way into East Crack. Descend slightly and make the crux moves rightwards onto the isolated foothold in the brown wall. Move up and rightwards to the finishing ledges. Bizarre, but quite entertaining!

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Itchicoo Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up into a shallow recess, then pull through a slight bulge. Follow the crack up leftwards to just below the thin crack of Itchicoo Wall. Make delicate moves rightwards up the diagonal crack to gain better holds on Becks Slab. Step right and finish pleasantly up the grey faceted slab.

Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Transference at a disappearing gangway.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the gangway and continue up the diagonal line to finish as for Transference.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Transference at the right-hand ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the right-hand ramp, and at its top, pull over leftwards and continue left to finish as for Transference.

Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Phraze, at a smooth scoop below the next crack system.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the scoop from the left and continue up the crack and the twin cracks above; until a steeper pull gains the edge of Javelin. Continue up this or descend.

Start location:
On the opposite side of the zawn to Phraze etc, the wall contains two main grooves. The left-hand groove forms a wide, right-slanting crack in its lower reaches. Start below this feature. Descent:- by abseil, or a down-climb (Mod) down the right edge (looking out) of the grassy slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wide, right-slanting crack and the stepped groove above to its end. Pull out leftwards to gain a grassy slab and move left to belay.

Start location:
Start just right of The Medic, below a broken corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the broken corner. Starting at the same place the rightwards-rising line of flakes gives the pleasant Muchachos (7m S1 F3 Clarke 2.4.13).

Start location:
Start the approach as for Sex-Pack on the Beach; down the easy slab and the short, steep wall below to gain the traverse line. The first feature, 1 metre right, is a right-trending groove (which also gives a down-climb (D). Two metres further right is a steep flowstone wall. Start below this wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flowstone wall and the left-trending flake crack above.

Start location:
Start as for Aurora.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up leftwards for 7 metres to gain a haven ledge below a broken groove. Step left and climb the left edge of the slab; before finishing up the continuation slab on the left.

Start location:
Start just above high tide level on a small, rounded, knoll-like ledge below the left (looking in) edge of the slab taken by Octogenarian’s Outing. Best gained by abseil.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the edge to a ledge at 5 metres. Continue up, keeping just right of the edge, in a fine position to the top.

Start location:
Approach as for Daphnia Slab, but continue straight down to just above high tide level; where a ledge leads off rightwards (looking in).

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ledge rightwards for 5 metres until a small inlet is reached with a chimney groove above. Pull up rightwards into the chimney groove, and follow it and the scoop on the right; until an exit to the left gains the top.

Start location:
Start as for Dream Crystal on the ledges below the descent ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up leftwards and stride across the chimney (as for Dream Crystal). Step up, then move diagonally leftwards to reach a right-slanting groove; follow this to the top.

Start location:
Start as for Dream Crystal on the ledges below the descent ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse horizontally RIGHT for 5 metres, then descend to gain a slab topped by a roof. Cross the slab and pass the roof to its right. Climb up for 3 metres, and step right into a shallow hollow. Descend slightly and move right into a brown scoop of poor rock. Cross the scoop and finish up the slab on its right.

Start location:
Start as for Recess Slab West.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Trend leftwards up the thin cracks in the slab to the rib. Move up, then continue leftwards above the roof; before finishing up the right side of the left edge of the slab.

Start location:
Start as for MCW.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow MCW to the bulge guarding access to the groove. Swing boldly leftwards and traverse left for 3 metres to gain a groove. Follow this to easier ground.

Start location:
Start on the beach 2 metres left of I Am Not a Number at a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the wide crack and the crystalline wall above to a break. Follow the thin crack above to gain a guano ledge and easier ground. Fine climbing!

Start location:
Start in the cave as for The Lost Handbag.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for 4 metres, first upwards, then down to reach a flake-line trending diagonally rightwards. Follow this and continue up to reach an overlap comprising blocks and holes. Pull over on its right-hand side and finish up and leftwards.

Start location:
Sixty metres NE of the summit of Giltar Point itself, at a much lower level is a jug-plastered slab facing Caldey Island. Access is by following a vague grassy path down from the col across the Tenby side of the Point; until a short, rocky scramble (fisherman’s rope) gains the top of the slab. Four metres right (looking out) of the slab a groove descends to sea level, with an attractive rib just to its right. Scramble down the groove to a ledge at high tide level below the rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right side of the rib delicately to finish on the approach scramble.

Start location:
Start as for Caldey Flower.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right onto a ramp and follow the grey wall above. The jug-plastered slab itself gives a good outing Cauli Slab (9m Mod Clarke 15.4.13).

Start location:
Ten metres right (looking out) of Caldey Flower is a steep wall with three dark cracks. Four metres left (looking in) of the left-hand crack, on the seaward face of the wall, is a right-slanting corner crack. Approach by abseil from the terrace above or at low tide, walk across from the base of the descent groove of Caldey Flower. Start below the right-slanting corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner to spike belays on the grass terrace.

Start location:
Between Cloaking Corner and Caldey Flower is a buttress with a nose of rock in its centre above half-height. Start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
Amble up to the nose, then follow the crispy grey slab on its right to a finish up the thin crack above.

Start location:
Start as for Bunbury.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb diagonally rightwards across the slab to reach a crystal-marked crack after 10 metres. Keep right of the crack and gain a rounded ledge; before following the twisting cracks above for 6 metres. Step right and follow a line of small hollows until 4 metres short of the rubble at the top of the zawn. Finish up the slight scoop on the left and gain the ridge.

Start location:
Start 10 metres right of Way Anchor at a cleft which forms a black, impending corner crack in its upper section.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the cleft and the impending corner, with as much elegance as possible.

Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Cud at a black corner (suggested name for this zawn: Cud Zawn?).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the steps in the corner to an interesting finish.

Start location:
Approach by scrambling down the west side of the zawn. Above where the line of descent commences its final diagonal (photo-topo, p 328!) is a grey slab with a blank middle section broken by a crack just right. Start in a small corner at high tide level below the grey slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Follow the blank section of slab to better holds; continuing direct through a small overlap to the top.

Start location:
Start as for Shelling Shea Sells.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and follow the crack, finishing up the rib on the left.

Start location:
Start as for Shellac Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step right onto the rib and follow its left side, in a good position, to a finish on the right.

Start location:
Five metres left (looking out) of the top of Shelling Out, an abseil down a square-cut chimney, or down-climb (VD), gains small ledges at high tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step left and follow the left side of the rib above, which becomes delicate and poorly protected.

Start location:
Four metres right of the descent chimney for Sinking Feeling is a darker slab with a wide crack slanting upwards. Start on a good ledge, exposed at mid tide. Access is by abseil or a tricky hand-traverse from Sinking Feeling.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wide, slanting crack; can be down-climbed, VD.

Start location:
Start as for Mousse.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up, then follow the lip of the dark slab rightwards to gain a tiny corner. Pull over a small overlap and continue to easier ground; a real treat!

Start location:
At the back of the zawn is a blowhole chimney. Start on a ledge at high-tide level below the chimney (not in rough seas!). Access is by abseil down the chimney; the top of which is located 7 metres back from the top of Perfect Pitch.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the blowhole chimney, utilizing a motley collection of long-forgotten climbing techniques. Dry conditions desirable!

Start location:
Start as for Scuppered.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left onto the sidewall and follow the right-facing corner to the top.

Start location:
Start as for Petite Right.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Petite Right to the right-facing corner and make a short hand traverse left into a left-facing corner. Up this and the dark wall above.

Start location:
Descend the jagged ridge as for The Black Tent to high-tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 2 metres and follow the wall and grey groove to the top.

Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Jam on It, and 1 metre left of the grooveflake line of The Great Escape, below a grey wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the grey wall, trending leftwards up a shallow groove to a ledge. Pull up a short impending wall to finish.

Start location:
Five metres right of the grooveflake of The Great Escape is a broken ramp, which can be down-climbed (D). A further 3 metres right is a wide crack; start below this crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to the overhanging wall, and finish leftwards up a gangway.

Start location:
Seven metres right of Rapt Bubble is a small zawn with a chimney in its back; and an overhanging crystalline white wall on its right. The zawn is best gained by abseil. Start below the chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the chimney; and make an interesting exit leftwards at the overhangs.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of the eastern entrance to the through cave on the south face of Star Rock (below Star Rock Crack); at a left-slanting groove, with a bulge at half height. Descent:- down the ramp on the right (looking in).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left wall of the slanting groove to the bulge. Step left and move through the left end of the bulge; before trending back right into the groove and up this to finish.

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Frenchman’s Creek below a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall on enormous holds.

Start location:
Eight metres right of du Maurier is a fine grey slab with a horizontal cave near its base. Start below the horizontal cave.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to the cave and move past its right edge to gain a vague fault line which leads to the top.

Start location:
Start at the left edge of the horizontal cave of Vacquier.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short crack and continue up the thin, left-trending crack.

Start location:
Start as for Aubrey.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to a break and follow the thin cracks to the top. Just left, the edge of the slab gives Ronsard(8m S Clarke 24.7.13).

Additional info:
A pleasant place to climb, with interesting rock formations, and only 5 mins from the car! However, tidal access is limited to only 90 mins around low tide. Also beware of fast-flowing fresh water channels and quicksand! Apart from this enjoy!

Start location:
Start as for Princess.

Pitch descriptions:
1 12m Follow Princess to the haven ledge at 7 metres. Step left around the edge of the slab and continue left to a stance below a left-trending grey ramp. 2 20m 4c Climb the left-trending ramp and continue up leftwards across two successive walls, eventually gaining a bridging position onto a small gangway on the left. Follow a short grey groove above and step right to finish.

Start location:
Start as for Aurora.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slab, a metre or so left of the central seam of Aurora. Pass the overlap and move up rightwards to the spike belays.

Start location:
Start as for Aurora.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-bounding corner of the slab, stepping right to finish.

Start location:
Start immediately right of Whiting.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the right edge of the slab with interest.

Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Recess Corner West, in the large corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner, with moves first right then back left around the mid-height roof.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Recess Slab West.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse rightwards into the cave and follow the cleft on the left, past a designer thread, onto the slab. Continue up the shallow groove and right-trending thin crack above to reach the right-bounding corner of the slab, and finish up this. Delightful climbing!

Start location:
Ten metres left of Shelling Shea Sells (on the other side of the scramble descent) is a triangular slab. Start just right of the centre of the slab at some sinuous cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the sinuous cracks with surprising difficulty; continue past the small niches on better holds and finish up the rib on the right.

Start location:
Four metres right of Trigonometry is another slab with two prominent cracks. Start below the left-bounding corner of this slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner for 5 metres, then step right and finish up the fine, right-slanting finger crack.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Transcendent.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-hand of the two prominent cracks. Starting 2 metres right, the right-hand crack gives Rough Stuff (11m VD Clarke 16.8.13).

Start location:
Start as for Sinking Feeling.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Hand traverse right for a metre, then follow the crack and groove above to a ledge in the corner of Profiterole. Step left and follow the front of the pillar to the top.

Start location:
Start as for Mousse.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the corner on the left to a ledge. Continue up the tasty upper corner.

Start location:
Start as for Mousse.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the fine, but contrived slab just left of the wide crack; and finish up another wide crack.

Start location:
Start on a ledge below the east face (facing Dawn Slab) of the pyramid-shaped sea stack; low tide only! Descent:- Scramble down the seaward ridge. Towards the left side of the east face is a left-facing, flaky, shallow corner; start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner and follow the wall above to the summit.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Giza Groove, at a right-slanting weakness in a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the weakness and finish leftwards up the fine slabby wall.

Additional info:
The name is Egyptian writing tablets!

Start location:
Just right of the base of Dawn Slab a square, facet wall juts out (clearly seen on right of photo, p 390!). Approach by abseil or a scramble down just left of the entrance to CC Zawn. On the right side of the facet, the first feature reached by the scramble is an attractive right-facing corner;start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner to the top. Starting in the same place, the cracks rising rightwards across the slab give Buntline (13m VD Clarke 26.8.13)

Start location:
Start as for Gatling Corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the corner for 3 metres, then pull left onto the wall. Move up the thin cracks and finish up the rib on the left.

Start location:
Start as for Gatling Corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Traverse left for 4 metres to reach a groove guarded by a bulge. Pull over the bulge and continue up the groove, stepping left to finish.

Start location:
Start just below the traverse of Winchester’73.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb left across the barnacle wall (mid tide and below, and make a tricky move around left onto the front face of the facet. Finish up the edge on the right.

Start location:
Start below the right-hand crack of the front face of the facet; gained by abseil.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack, can be down-climbed (D). The thinner crack, branching left out of Recoil is Windage (10m S1 F3 Clarke 26.8.13).

Start location:
Start one and a half metres left of Recoil.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack through the overlap.

Start location:
Start 2 metres below and left of Squeeze. Don’t Pull at a small mid tide ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the pockets on the right and continue up the fine, thin crack.

Start location:
Start immediately left of Quick Draw.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Scratch up the slab via the pocket. Step left and finish up the edge.

Start location:
Approach as for Scene Shifter to the flowstone wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for a metre to a tiny recess, then follow the smooth wall above.

Additional info:
Probably been done before!

Start location:
Approach as for Scene Stealer to the tiny recess.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for a further 2 metres, past a large pocket, and finish up the thin flake above and right.

Start location:
To the right of Rusty Missile a short, but well-featured cliff stretches rightwards from the far side of the green grotto. Abseil from spikes down to good, high tide, dark ledges adjacent to a small inlet; approximately 15 metres right of the top of Rusty Missile. Start from the right edge of the green grotto; gained by a traverse leftwards of 9 metres from the dark ledges.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull over a block overhang and continue up the impending groove above the grotto.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of The Green Grotto at a groove with a smooth right wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the shelf below the groove proper, and continue up the groove via its right rib.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Aqua Verde, at another groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull over the bulge and finish up the groove.

Start location:
Start just right of Green Sleeves at the left end of the dark ledges.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the blunt rib and finish up the white wall.

Start location:
Start below the right edge of the slab on mid tide ledges.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the edge of the slab, moving rightwards all the time. Contrived, but pleasant!

Start location:
To the right of Fool on the Hill is a square zawn, identified by a yellow slab leading up to huge overhangs. Start at the base of the right-bounding corner of the yellow slab (mid-low tide!). Gained by an abseil, or a down-climb (D) down the ridge to its right (looking in).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner until at 8 metres it becomes prudent to follow the slabby ramp on the right to a sloping ledge. Climb the 3 metre high wall on loose blocks to the top.

Start location:
Start 10 metres around and right of Yellow Peril on low tide ledges, below an attractive slabby groove bounding a short impending wall to its left.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a slanting barnacle groove and the slabby groove above.

Start location:
Twelve metres left of Cloaking Device is a gully with two slanting grooves on its left wall. Start 5 metres above and right of the base of the left-hand gully. Descent:- Abseil back down, or traverse right (rope advised) along the terrace.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make steep moves leftwards to gain the left-hand slanting groove and follow it to just below the bulge. Step left onto the rib and go up this to the terrace.

Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Ephemera on mid tide ledges below a grey slab. Descend as before.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab to the terrace.

Start location:
Twelve metres left of Gloaming Tide is a cave with a slanting groove on its right wall. Start here. Descend as before.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slanting groove, pull through the bulge and continue to the terrace.

Start location:
Start 6 metres left of Discovery Channel below a wavy slab. Best gained by a low tide scramble leftwards from Caldey Flower.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and continue up the columnar rocks and knife edge ridge to the summit of Giltar Point. Outstanding!

Start location:
Eight metres left of Sud Kante is a hidden, steep-sided zawn which prevents further progress. Start below a thin flake line in the right wall of the zawn. Descent:- either abseil back down, or scramble up the knife-edge ridge to the summit.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a steep little wall and continue up the flake line, moving rightwards onto the rib and a metal stanchion. Continue up the columnar rocks to the terrace.

Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Out of Sight below the corner of the zawn. Descend as before.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner to the overhangs, then follow the short, awkward crack rightwards to the rib. Continue up a chimney and gain the terrace.

Start location:
Ten metres right (looking out) of Staccato is a prow-like buttress. Start at high tide level in a slanting groove below the front of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4a gain and climb a slender gangway rightwards, then move up the steeper right sidewall of the buttress; before stepping left and finishing up the front. Good, but escapeable!

Start location:
Start as for Flying Buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move left and up into an undercut groove. Climb leftwards, past the rock scar, and from a position just below the large cave, step right into a grassy recess. Belay, then scramble out.

Start location:
Eleven metres left of Don’t Trust Rust, and at beach level (low tide only!); is a cave with two left-slanting cracklines in its left wall. Start below the left-hand crackline. Descent:- either abseil, or down-climb (S) Double Trouble (easier than in ascent!).

Pitch descriptions:
4c Traverse right across a slab and swim up the right-hand crackline to a constriction. Overcome this by delicate, unprotected moves on the left. Move up to the upper constriction and pull up the steep wall on the left to gain a terrace. Belay carefully!

Start location:
Start as for Swimming in Rock.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the left-hand crackline and finish leftwards across the shelving wall to gain the terrace. Descend as before.

Start location:
Start 9 metres left of Scrattling below two successive grooves running a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the grooves past an awkward bulge to the terrace. Descend as before.

Start location:
Start 8 metres left of Sombre Aero, at a black slab, just before the back of the cave.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the thin cracks and flake up the slab and finish up the rounded rib.

Start location:
Approach as for Quaynly Thought and descend the ridge or the chimney down to the boulders in the zawn (low tide only!). Start at the back of the zawn at a short corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up, then rightwards into the corner bounding the grey wall to its left. Up the corner to the top.

Start location:
Twelve metres left of Crunch Quay is a narrower zawn blocked by boulders. Start 3 metres left of the left edge of this zawn below a black and yellow rib. Gained from the descent to Crunch Quay followed by a scramble across.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a narrow groove, then the left side of the rib to finish. Belay just below the top.

Start location:
Start 4 metres above and left of Quay to the Door below twin cracks in a slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the twin cracks and pull through a bulge to finish. Belay just below the top.

Start location:
Start 10 metres below and left of Flying Buttress below a large thread at 3 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb past the thread and continue up the wall to a ramp. Pull through the small roof and and follow the crack rightwards to the large cave. Traverse right into the grassy recess of Don’t Trust Rust. Belay, then scramble out.

Start location:
Start from a small crystalline ledge at high tide level (gained by abseil) on a protruding buttress, some 8 metres right (looking in) of the abseil point for Green Gage Summer etc.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull rightwards through the bulge on the right and finish up the right-trending shallow groove.

Start location:
Start as for Lincoln Green.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend slightly and traverse right for 3 metres across a steep little wall to gain a small ledge and thread. Climb the white wall above.

Start location:
Start as for Green-Eyed.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Follow Green-Eyed to the small ledge and thread. Traverse a further 6 metres right with difficulty to gain a large sloping ledge beneath an impressive unclimbed wall. Finish up the left-slanting grey gangway. Pleasant, but unprotected!

Start location:
Directly below the western sentry box, a broken slope leads down to an area of easy-angled slabs marked by overlaps (a kind of mini Etive Slabs, with friction!). Abseil down the slabs to a scooped-out hollow just below high tide level.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb leftwards out of the hollow and follow the left side of the main slab, pulling through two overlaps to reach the top overlap. Step right and make the crucial pull over via the twin cracks.

Start location:
Start as for Trill Thrill.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb straight out of the hollow and follow the slab and corner which bounds the main slab on its right past an overlap. Step right and up, pulling through the next overlap at a short corner to belays in a long niche.

Start location:
Start as for Trill Thrill.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and move up a gangway; before following the rib overlooking an impressive zawn on the right (no routes!!). Continue up a slab to belays in a large recess.

Start location:
Eight metres left of Trigonometry around the corner of the triangular slab is a hidden chimney. Start here, midlow tide only!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the grooves up the left wall of the chimney to gain a large recess, adorned with huge boulders. Escape by scrambling up rightwards.

Start location:
Start as for Isolated.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the chimney, passing the bulge to its left.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Geometric Chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin cracks in the right sidewall of the chimney.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Equilateral, around the arête and below a right-slanting groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-slanting groove to the top of the triangular slab.

Start location:
Fifteen metres left of Geometric Chimney, and gained by a traverse at low tide is a fine slab, with a narrow ledge at 5 metres. Access is possible at high tide by a short abseil, or a down-climb (VD) from the left end (looking in) of the large recess at the top of Isolated. Start below a black, bulging crack at the right side of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the crack to the narrow ledge, move up right and follow a shallow flake to its top; before stepping left and up to gain a terrace. Good nut and cam belays. Either scramble up the broken ribs on the left to reach the coast path, or abseil back down.

Start location:
Start as for Curtain Raiser.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the ramp up leftwards to the narrow ledge. Step right and climb the crack diagonally rightwards; before continuing up the thinner crack to the terrace. Escape as for Curtain Raiser.

Start location:
Fourteen metres left of Pull Yourself Together is yet another fine slab; this time narrower, with horizontal breaks on its right-hand side. Start below the right-hand side of the slab. Descent:- abseil, or scramble up rightwards.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the right-hand side of the slab, via the horizontal breaks, which appear more frequently as height is gained, to a large ledge. Excellent sustained climbing at the grade!

Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Geometric Chimney below a rib just right of a stepped groove topped by a large perched block.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib and finish just right of the perched block.

Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Set Square at the foot of the stepped groove, mid tide and below.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the stepped groove for 3 metres, then branch left to follow the thin crack up the dark slab, finishing just left of the perched block.

Start location:
Start 4 metres left of Failworth at a deep groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the groove to the large recess. The slab immediately left gives a couple of interesting moves Planar (6m S 4b Clarke 3.11.13).

Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Slab Fab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up the centre of the slab, then follow a left-slanting thin crack for 3 metres; before stepping right and gaining the large ledge by a series of exquisite moves.

Start location:
Start as for Slab Happy.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the left-slanting corner to a haven ledge, then climb the central cracks up two successive slabs to the large ledge. Continue up a short slab and the central crackline above to gain a fine perch below the top slab. Traverse right and follow the right side of the slab to its top. A scramble up vegetation (pretend it’s snow!) and a short rib gain the summit.

Start location:
Start just right of Slab Fab, below a recess at 7 metres.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wide crack into the recess; then follow its left-hand corner, until a ramp leads up leftwards to the large ledge.

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Flower Drum Song below a large left-facing corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner to a ledge, and finish up the continuation corner.

Start location:
Start immediately right of Niche in the Market.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the thin crack, and at half-height transfer into the thin crack on the right and finish up this.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Done Deal below the right edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the left side of the edge of the slab, without recourse to the wide crack (Rough Stuff) on the left.

Start location:
Start at the foot of Initiation Slab, at the right-hand side of the high tide ledges.

Pitch descriptions:
Hand traverse the obvious break rightwards across the steep wall on the right, 2 metres above the ledges, to gain a ledge on a rib. Follow the rib on huge holds and finish up a square-cut corner.

Start location:
Thirty metres below and left (looking out) of the top of Initiation Slab are two, white-topped, flat-faced buttresses (clearly seen on the right-hand side of the photo, p 328!). Approach by abseiling down the shallow groove between the buttresses to a high tide ledge (can be down-climbed, D!).

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 4 metres to gain a small ledge on the left edge of the left-hand buttress. After a steep pull into a crack on the left, climb the left side of the edge, keeping to the edge near the top. The right side of the edge is pleasant, The Fringe (11m VD Clarke 7.11.13).

Start location:
Start on the high tide ledge below the abseil.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse left for 2 metres and climb the centre of the left-hand buttress to the top.

Start location:
Start on the high tide ledge below the abseil.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step right and follow a crack up the right-hand buttress. Where it bends left, continue up the slab on hidden flakes and pockets.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Ivory in a corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up the corner, then step left and follow the thin crack in the slab.

Start location:
Six metres left of Furiant the sidewall of the left-hand buttress terminates at a right-angled groove. Abseil to a small high tide ledge at its base.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-angled groove to the top. The crackline immediately left gives Viscous (11m S1 F3+ Clarke 7.11.13).

Start location:
Start at the left side of the high tide ledges below Initiation Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up left to a haven ledge at 4 metres below a rock-scarred groove. Follow the edge left of the rock scar and finish up the continuation rib.

Start location:
Start as for Solidus.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow Solidus to its haven ledge. Step left and make excellent moves up the short steep wall to gain a dark groove. Climb the groove to a small ledge and continue up the yellow wall for a couple of metres; before moving right onto the edge and finishing as for Solidus.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Raindrops below a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right side of the rib to the top.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Pluvial in a corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up the corner for a metre, then step left and climb the widening crack in the slab.

Start location:
To the right of Deluge the rocks diminish in height, but after 15 metres a higher corner is reached. This has a fine, and in parts blank slab to its left, riven by a right-slanting crack. Access is by a pleasnt traverse rightwards from the foot of Deluge (mid tide and below!), or a short abseil. Start below the left edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a shallow groove, pull over a small bulge, and continue up the edge to the top.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Fangs a Lot.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up to the left-hand of the blobs (which resembles a plaque) and continue up the slab.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of The Plaque.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin cracks in the right sidewall of the corner.

Start location:
Start at the foot of the groove of Tin Pan Alley.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards across the steep wall and layback onto the narrow ramp; follow this to the top.

Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Fangs a Lot below a deep groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the deep groove.

Start location:
Start 4 metres right of Chipped Tooth below a corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the physical corner.

Start location:
Four metres right of 6th Avenue is a fine, blank, dimpled slab with a thin crack on its left and a flake crack on its right. Start below the thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin crack with interest. The two-stage flake crack on the right is Twice (11m D Clarke 12.11.13).

Start location:
Thirty-five metres right of Contrapunctus is the chasm of Proud Giltar Zawn. The zawn forms a slab on its left-hand side. Start below the left edge of the slab on a small high tide ledge; gained by convoluted scrambling.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the zig-zag cracks on the right side of the edge all the way to belays on good blocks just below the steep grass slopes. Scramble off left.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Non-Stick Toffee, below a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rib to a ledge at two-thirds height. The upper section of the rib proves delicate and exposed, but soon gives way to easier ground.

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of V-ger, below a rib forming the left edge of the Pull Yourself Together Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the pleasant rib.

Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Angled.

Pitch descriptions:
Saunter up the ridge to the large recess.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Equilateral and just left of Hypotenuse, below a shallow groove running up the edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the groove with interest and pull over the small bulge; before trending rightwards up a groove to gain the top of the triangular slab.

Start location:
Above and left of the top of The Plaque is a right-angled recess in an upper tier of rock. The right-angle is occupied by a slender rib with grooves either side. Start below the slender rib. Descent:- Scramble carefully down the rock to the right (looking out).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib in collaboration with the left-hand groove.

Start location:
Start as for 6th Avenue.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left and climb the wall to finish up the right-slanting gangway.

Start location:
Start 1 metre right of The Art of Fugue, below a left-facing corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner, and near the top, trend left to finish just above the blocks at the top of The Art of Fugue.

Start location:
Ten metres right of Flint Stone is a larger recess with a left-facing groove in its left wall. Start at a boulder and rock pool below this groove. Descent:- cross the rickety fence on the left (looking out) and scramble down blocky ledges.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-facing groove with judicious use of its right rib.

Start location:
Fourteen metres right of Contrapunctus a yellow and grey wall rises from ledges well above the sea. The main feature is a multi-cracked, left-facing groove just left of an unattractive, wide corner crack. Start below the multi-cracked groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to easier ground. The thinner crack just left proves interesting Cimmaron (6m S Clarke 25.11.13).

Start location:
Start as for Orgelbuchlein.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse horizontally right for 2 metres onto the slab. Follow the slab up slightly rightwards for 15 metres; before trending left to join and finish as for Orgelbuchlein.

Start location:
Start 2 metres left of Pull Yourself Together.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the dark wall to the narrow ledge. Continue up the slab slightly rightwards, keeping to the right of the small overlap near the top, to the terrace. Fine slab climbing!

Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Trigonometry.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the centre of the triangular slab, with some delicacy.

Start location:
Above Ivory is a large ravine. Start on boulders below a rib at the left side of the entrance to the ravine.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the short, smooth corner, and continue delicately up the left side of the rib; before stepping left to gain a crack which leads to easier ground.

Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Goldberg, and just right of the wide corner crack, below a shallow groove in a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow groove.

Start location:
Start 6 metres below and just right of Partita, on a high tide ledge below a large corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner to a haven ledge at 7 metres. Continue up the corner, stepping left near the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow Abiding to the twin cracks in the corner. Step up and right onto a narrow gangway and follow this over a bulge to a recess. Continue up the gangway on the left to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the steep wall into a recess, then scramble up rightwards to a haven ledge and huge thread. Climb the slab above and left to a loose finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Amble up the left edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse awkwardly right across the channel and continue along a small gangway to gain a small ledge perched on the left rib of the smooth face. Follow the rib and finish on the right to gain the top of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the wall and wide crack to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall and trend leftwards up the grey slab to finish up a little wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the steep, dark groove above, and continue up the left-slanting rampline to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Commence a pleasant, gently-rising leftwards traverse across the slabs to finish up the grey slab and little wall of Shanghai Slab.

Additional info:
A very pleasant little area–but protection is spaced and poor–take micro wires!

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse the slab leftwards for 2 metres and follow the edge above, in a fine position, to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull over the rounded prow slightly on its right side on small fingerholds. Continue up the shallow grooves and finish up the little wall of Shanghai Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the short impending wall; step left and continue directly to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb steeply rightwards, past a prominent jutting rock. Move up, then finish up the groove on the right. Short, but memorable!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the steep rib to a ledge. Follow the continuation rib on the right to a recess and exit rightwards.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the diagonal break rightwards to join and finish up Les Patineurs.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up rightwards onto the pinnacled ridge and follow it to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up left, then continue leftwards for 3 metres across a wall to gain a slabby groove. Follow this and the runnel above to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up leftwards and pull over a small bulge. Continue leftwards up a crackline for 4 metres, until thin cracks lead up directly to the finishing ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Back and foot up the outside of the deep chimney, then move up the right wall to gain the prominent ledge on the arête. Finish up the arête with some trepidation.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the slab, utilizing the best selection of dumplings.

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across the inlet and follow the slabby corner to easier ground. Either wander off, or climb the crack and groove at the right end of the grey wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left to the rib, and pass below its steep section to reach the scooped left side of the rib which leads to the top. Care required at the start! The right-slanting groove above the start is Dark Muffins (8m D Clarke 20.1.14).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner, making good use of the usually drier right wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a short corner, then follow the fine diagonal crack rightwards, past the prominent chicken-head foothold, to the edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall on positive edges.

Additional info:
The name means ‘dedication’ in German.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble leftwards and cross the first window. Climb up a grey scoop and descend the steep wall beyond to the second window and cross this. Go through the third window immediately left and descend a groove to sea level. Continue rightwards, via a memorable downwards swinging hand traverse, to the tip of the headland. Go around the headland and traverse back rightwards towards the mainland to reach the second window. From here, reverse the outward journey. An interesting trip around one of Pembroke’s most bizarre features! Mainly Diff, with a couple of Severe moves!

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through the roof of the cave and continue up the corner crack to a ledge. Climb the blocky ridge to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the pinnacle and traverse left for 3 metres, before following the grey ramp up leftwards on huge holds to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right across the barnacle wall and follow the grassy groove above for 8 metres. Pull leftwards and finish up the small, squat tower.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left across the slab, and pull through the left side of the overlaps, overlooking the zawn to the left. Finish by scrambling up the slabby ridge above.

Pitch descriptions:
Commence a long rightwards traverse into the zawn, keeping on the dark rock above high tide level. At the back of the zawn, step down and pull rightwards into a remarkable recess just above the main sea tunnel. Step right, move up, then leftwards over a bulge to finish up a loose exit ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin crackline just right of centre of the dark wall. Starting 1 metre left, the thin crack gives Ainola (7m VD Clarke 10.2.14).

Additional info:
On a sadder note, the fine mini-arch on the other side of the bay; The Rock Rainbow (14012013, Vol 5) is now defunct. A fresh victim of the storms! !

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Bucketland to the grey ramp. Continue leftwards, until a step down gains a flake leading left to the straightforward finishing groove.

Additional info:
The rounded pinnacle at the start has vanished; but the wall above can be traversed!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the steep little wall on the right to spiky holds and take a leftwards line through the rounded upper bulges.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right edge of a short white groove and the wall above to an orange rock scar. Make fingery moves up and left to gain the rib, which leads to the top of the square buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up, then follow the rightwards-rising line of holds across the face to gain the right-hand (and still unclimbed!) crack. Climb the crack for a couple of moves, then teeter rightwards to finish quickly up the left side of the arete. A sparkling little route, with a contrived, but exciting finish!

Additional info:
Take thin slings for the routes on this face!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right-slanting crack system to below the top bulge. Step left and move up onto the grass slope. Continue up to belays in an outcrop 15 metres higher.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb up and right for 3 metres, then traverse horizontally rightwards on improving holds, to finish with the feet level with the step in the right-bounding ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the corner for 5 metres, then move left onto the grey arête and move up to a spike. Continue up, taking care with the holds as the top is approached. Step right to avoid the final short, shattered wall and belay on a projecting block and small outcrop 9 metres back at the same level.

Additional info:
The direct start up the impending arête will be one of the last desperate problems in Pembroke; a bouncy castle and spotters required!…Go for it!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the steep crackline slightly leftwards to the base of a steepening groove. Move up into the groove and escape up its left wall.