New Routes – Pembroke Range West (Barry Clarke)

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Area : Pembroke – Range West
Crag : Greenham Common The Nursery (p 327)
Date of ascent : 09/06/2013
Route name : Unescorted Seiko
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Detention.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through the small roof, and follow the shallow groove in the sidewall above.

Additional info:
The name—these words are burned onto the Range West pass…Perhaps Seiko should be Psycho?

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the pleasant wall direct.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the shallow groove to the highest point of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend rightwards up the blunt rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up leftwards to reach a short groove; and follow this rightwards to gain a ledge above the triangular roof. Finish up the rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb rightwards and launch up the overhanging crack just right of the triangular roof. Finish up the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a After a prickly start, climb the shallow groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Start up the left-slanting crack; and finish up the bulging wall on the right, Good climbing!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Traverse right along the break for 4 metres to below a step in the roof above. Pull over the step onto the balcony ledge and finish up the short walls.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse a further 2 metres right and climb the tiny corner onto the right end of the balcony ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Move right for 2 metres and climb the slab, keeping left of the large horizontal block.

Additional info:
The name… a natural anti-histamine found in red apples!

Pitch descriptions:
4a From the left end of the jutting shelf step up to a higher break and follow this leftwards to a large recess above the main overhang. Finish up the groove above and right.

Additional info:
A good climb; but I suspect it may take the line of Something Similar, despite the photo-topo showing otherwise!

Pitch descriptions:
4a From the left end of the jutting shelf climb the narrow buttress above.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the slabby wall, via a shallow scoop.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull through a small bulge using the eponymous memory stick and continue to a niche just left of the large overhang. Swing left and finish up the slab above.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the runnel and pull over a small bulge to gain a rightwards-sloping gangway. Ignoring the easy finish, step left onto the lip of the large overhang and finish up the short groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow a series of thin cracks and grooves to the top, keeping just left of the bulges.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the steep arete directly on good holds and finish up easier-angled rock.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 7 metres to reach a wide chimney. Continue for a further 3 metres to the end of the footledge. Pull over a bulge to gain and follow a line of weakness; finishing near the climber shown in the photo on p 329!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the sinuous cracks to the top. The chimney itself is Plume (14m D Clarke 29.6.13).

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 2 metres along the footledge and climb the wall to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left for 1 metre to a small niche, and follow the wall above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Traverse left for 1 metre and climb the delicate wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall on the left via the prickly ledge to the top.

Additional info:
The footledge is normally free of water at high tide; but not in a swell!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the wall direct.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove, steep, but straightforward!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the staircase of good holds to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up and follow the flake forming the right-hand groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through the bulge and continue pleasantly up the centre of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up into the corner below the square-cut roof and pull through this slightly leftwards on poor holds. Continue up the rib to the top. Good moves, but marred by its proximity to easier ground!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up left of the cave, then step right and follow the wall above the cave up and rightwards; before stepping back left to below the right-angled corner of Thro’ the Keyhole. Pull up and right making an exhilerating move onto the lip of the overhang and finish up the wall above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b From the foot of the smooth crack, step left along the footledge and climb the right side of the left edge of the yellow wall to gain a ledge. Pull over the right side of the roof above on flat holds.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the curving corner to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up a thin crack to a niche, step left and finish up the V-groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb direct through the small bulge and the stepped walls above.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb through the bulges via the shallow scoops.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step right for a metre and follow the short, right-slanting crack. Continue up the wall trending rightwards.

Pitch descriptions:
4c From below the short right-slanting crack, traverse right for 3 metres and follow the thin crackline.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right on small footholds above the footledge for 2 metres to gain another thin crackline. Follow this, stepping right near the top to the continuation crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the cracks and scoops up rightwards to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for 2 metres to reach a line of right-trending cracks. Follow these and finish direct.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for a further 2 metres to gain a small white flake. Up this and the crack above, before finishing up the crack above and right.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right for 3 metres and climb the left side of the rib, bounding the wall on its right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby wall direct, past a steepening to finish through the top roof with surprising ease.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the bold slab to gain a shallow square recess at 8 metres. Continue direct and finish through the right-hand of two notches in the upper overhang.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb delicately up the slab for 3 metres, then move rightwards to the rib. Continue up this, past the salt pan, to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Teeter up the smooth shallow groove in the right wall of the scoop; before finishing up easier rock above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a shallow flake and continue up the wall. The left-bounding corner itself gives Balsam (6m VD Clarke 21.7.13).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short crack, step right and follow a groove on the front of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb Icefall for 4 metres, then step left onto a ledge. Climb the broad rib above and pull over a small bulge to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull through a small bulge and follow the right side of the buttress, finishing up a short groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Bridge downwards and climb up into the back of the cave. Move up and chimney outwards to pass the constriction on the outside. Finish up the wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the gently impending right-hand side of the arête, and continue up the direct finish, which surprisingly still provides the crux.

Pitch descriptions:
Make a dainty move over the overlap.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab via the short left-facing corner and overlap.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Start the rib direct, then follow its right side to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the grey slab direct.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the facet wall and the centre of the slab above.

Additional info:
Care required: the top of the tower is crumbling away and there are no belays!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the black bulging wall and finish up the ramp on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the brown, crystal-flecked slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crackline and the steeper brown wall above.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the crackline and pull over the right side of the bulge above.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the steep wall and finish up the thin, left-slanting crack to the right of the bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crackline and finish up the wide crack above and right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb past the corner and continue up the headwall to finish awkwardly up a short flake.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb over the small bulges and finish up the right-trending flake.

Additional info:
The name means sand!

Pitch descriptions:
Step up into the recess then pull leftwards through the bulge. Trend up rightwards and finish just left of the edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the back of the groove for 3 metres; then chimney out leftwards to finish up the slab, keeping left of the blocky structure.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the slab and finish direct; very pleasant!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow sculpted rock up rightwards and the right-slanting white rib above and right to a ledge. Pull up the short wall to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up to a recess on the right, then follow the rib on the left, continuing up a runnel in the slab to a bulge. Pull leftwards through the bulge; step right and pull over a smaller bulge, before finishing up the flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a fine flake up leftwards, then take the slab rightwards to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner-groove, past two large threads, and trend rightwards up the slabby wall towards the right end of the huge overhang. Pass the overhang to its right by steeper moves and finish up the continuation groove. A big feel for the grade, tremendous!

Pitch descriptions:
Step left and pull through a small bulge onto the rib. Continue up and slightly leftwards to finish up a slight groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the blunt rib on the left, with a couple of more delicate moves to gain the upper break. Finish up the upper rib in a fine position.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the impending wall, and finish up the thin crack above and left.

Pitch descriptions:
Step across to a sloping ledge on the main face; and from its left end pull up a short rib. Step left to gain a wide crack and follow it leftwards to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Gain the sloping ledge on the main face and move up and rightwards across the steep wall to a less steep area on the right. Continue up slightly rightwards to reach the corner crack and follow this leftwards to gain a ledge below the final groove, which gives a thrilling finale.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the rib above from the left and follow it to a small bulge. Step right and finish up a shallow flake. Brittle rock throughout!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up leftwards over the bulges to reach a tiny left-facing corner just right of the edge of the pillar. Move up the corner and the smoother wall above; until moves left gain a ledge overlooking Christmas Chasm. Continue up, then traverse leftwards above the lip of the big roof for a metre or so; before climbing the headwall to the top. Sensational, but spaced gear in its lower reaches!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the yellow wall and pull through the band of overhangs; before moving up and left to the ledge on Quasar Intellectual (optional belay). Step up left and follow the right side of the left edge of the buttress, in a fine position, to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up left for 4 metres and climb a short, awkward groove through the bulge to gain a large ledge. Finish up the flake and wall above.

Additional info:
As indicated above; the upper corner of Anything Goes has gone! !

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the lower section of Anything Goes then move up a short crack on the right just left of the arête for a metre or so. Trend right to the arete and follow this, via a strange, scooped-out niche, in a splendid position, to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
5b Step across the crevice, and climb up a blunt rib to a blanker strata of rock. Overcome this towards its left side and finish up the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
5b Climb the crack and the dark wall to gain the diagonal traverse of One for the Archives. Continue direct up the wall to reach the ramp. Climb the steep wall on the right and finish up the fine, thin cracks just left of the edge of the headwall.

Additional info:
Only the lower half is new; the top section was climbed by P and P Biglands on 18.08.2013!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Use the corner crack to start a series of steep moves up the left side of the rib above. Reach a break at 8 metres, then follow the gentler right side of the rib to the terraces.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a delicate little wall, then trend leftwards and follow the rib to the terraces.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to a bulge at 7 metres, then step right and follow a continuation groove to the terraces.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move right around the rib and gain a right-facing groove with interest. Up this to the terraces.

Additional info:
The name:- a tribute to Gary Gibson, reaching his milestone of 4000 new routes!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rib on less than helpful holds, and continue up the blocky ridge to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the runneled wall to the ledge, and finish up the smoother wall 1 metre right of John Smith’s.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step left and climb the left side of the rib, steeply at first.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow a ramp up rightwards, then keep left and climb the juggy arete to join and finish up A l’Eau, a l’Eau. Steep and spectacular for the grade!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the shallow crackline to easier ground; and scramble up the white corner to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the lower buttress; then the facet wavy wall immediately right of the upper crack of The Chough Strikes Back.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the shallow groove and rib above in the right wall of the recess.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Swim up the channel, step right and climb the short corner to gain a ledge on the right. Step left and pull over a smooth bulge; before climbing the crack above and right to an interesting finish.

Additional info:
Incidentally, The Phantom Chough is located 7 metres right of the recess!