New Routes – Pembroke North (Barry Clarke)

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the spiky groove to the niche and follow the ramp up leftwards to finish up a short crack.

Pitch descriptions:
1 7m Traverse left to gain a recess below an overhanging grey groove, and excellent belays.
2 18m Follow a subsidiary groove on the left to an awkward exit. Gain a balcony below the blade-like roof, and walk leftwards along this to escape.

Additional info:
The name means “little adventure”!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the quartz, then follow the rising flake line rightwards to finish up the right arete of the wall. Straightforward climbing in a marvellous situation!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a tricky step left into the slanting groove that leads up into the chimney-crack blowhole. Continue to a constriction, move up right, then swing back left into the chimney-crack and slither up to daylight.

Additional info:
Pen Bilis is the correct name for the crag! The routes Redman and Slug Matador were repeated–grades confirmed!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the spiky ridge on huge holds, as befits the legendary local giant, Bica!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the groove to a large ledge; then finish up the loose cracks and blocks on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up just right of the arête, then the arête itself.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracked wall. Starting from a refuge ledge, the compact wall just left gives the interesting Grouted (6m S 20.01.12).

Additional info:
Jigsaw, Hammer and Drill were all repeated–grades confirmed! Chisel repeated–suggest raise grade from M to D! Screwdriver repeated–suggest lowering grade VD to M! This is a nice area suitable for a pleasant adventure. However, the abseil stake at the top of the grey (Aquaplane) slab is in a very BAD state; as are the finishes of the two routes here!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move right and climb a steep wall rightwards to gain the left arête of the buttress; and follow this to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain a jutting ledge, pull up a steep little wall and follow the crackline slightly leftwards to the top; very pleasant!

Pitch descriptions:
5a Make the tricky, low rightwards traverse as for The Gerbil; then climb up the wall above and right to gain the fine, left-slanting groove. Follow this to a finish up the arête. A good climb; but the crux is still the entry traverse!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the awkward cracked slab immediately right of the wide crack. Where the angle eases, follow the crack itself rightwards to finish.

Additional info:
Jim Bowen’s Love-Child repeated; suggest up grade S to HS 4a, and 20 metres long! Stanley Unwin repeated; grade confirmed, but 17 metres long!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the ramp system to gain an alcove just below the cliff-top. Finish carefully rightwards up the brittle rock.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the slots and pull over the roof. Step left, and follow the left-hand of three short grooves to gain the alcove of Bilious; finish carefully rightwards as for that route.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain the top of the rock arch (low-mid tide!); then trend rightwards up the dark slab to the top. Dry conditions desirable!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the quartz arête.

Pitch descriptions:
Avoid the greasy slabs (which are a very dangerous sea-race!); and climb the right side of the large groove to a roof. Stride leftwards across the groove, and follow the break and ledges leftwards to below the loose, blocky ridge at the left end of the wall. Climb the right side of the ridge, then its left side to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks either side of the narrow slab above; and finish steeply over the square-cut roof near the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the dyke, which forms a wide crack, to finish up the short groove just right of the tower.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up for 5 metres, then follow the breaks leftwards across the wall at half-height, to finish up the left arete. Very pleasant!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab directly to the crux at the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend rightwards up the slab, finishing just right of the step in the ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb leftwards up the slabby wall and hand traverse the lower break leftwards until the footholds run out 2 metres short of Caerfai Crack. Step up to the higher break, shuffle leftwards and finish up the stepped holds on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the slabby wall just left of the arête to a ledge. Step right and climb the left side of the edge to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the slab, eventually finishing up its left edge.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slabs and red groove to finish up the rib as for Gateaux Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake crack, reasonably solid and well-protected, and finish up the rib above.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the smooth wall, then pull through the slight bulge at the right edge of the grey slab. Continue up the edge to gain a small niche near the top. Finish warily up the slight scoop on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the dark rib and slender groove above to the top. Reasonably solid, but poorly-protected!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow corner and continue up the crack above.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner and follow the ledge system rightwards, before climbing the stepped corner just before the back of the zawn. When easier ground is reached, step left and climb the thin crack to the ridge. A grand little adventure!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step up, and traverse right for 1 metre onto the dark rock. Move up, then rightwards to gain the ledge system. Follow the thin cracks, just right of the small cutaway, to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Rock up onto the barnacled wall and pull through the right side of the jagged overlap; continue direct. The grade depends on the co-operation of the barnacles!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Amble up to the roof and pull over at the small groove. Step left and finish up the rib. Rather crunchy at present!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ledgy wall; and with hands on the edge on the left, walk up the diagonal crack. Finish up the short corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the crack and continue direct to finish up twin, thin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the short, steep wall, then another wall leads into the left-facing groove. Up this to the top, with careful belays in a thin crack to the right. The difficulty depends on where the initial wall is climbed!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the curving corner to a ledge and finish up the groove above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up, then follow the cracks in the left wall of the corner, and the groove above and left to reach a ledge. Finish up the V-groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pocketed crack to the summit ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the chimney and crack to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the groove and continue to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a short wall, then the left side of the edge above to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the slabby groove to within 1 metre of the slanting roof. Traverse right across the steep, red wall to gain the arête. Move up this for a few metres, then amble up the ramp on the left to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the wall on positive crimps, which diminish as height is gained.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the crack, then ignoring the ledge on the left, finish up the wall on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb rightwards up the slab to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Make a tricky starting move, and climb the wall on tiny crimps; until things improve when the breaks are reached.

Pitch descriptions:
Trend leftwards up the slab and finish up the edge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb over the left side of the overlap.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb through a small recess, then follow the more substantial of the flaky cracks above with care to the top ramp. Move left to belay.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slab, with a delicate move to gain the short groove. Belay on the ramp (cams); then walk off downwards to the right.

Additional info:
Be wary of Eastern Approaches; the finish is loose and poorly- protected, and bears only a passing resemblance to the given grade (Diff)!!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the descent ramp up rightwards for 5 metres and climb the twin cracks above. Continue up the left-slanting crack above the gangway of Rising Damp; before finishing up the rib on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-slanting flake crack and the corner above; before stepping left to finish up the fine slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up the slab trending slightly left to a finish up the rib on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the brown wall rightwards to reach a tiny corner. Step up the slab just left and gain the ramp of Corridor. Follow this rightwards for 7 metres; then hand traverse leftwards along a large brown block, before finishing up the slabs on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the wall above via a small triangular niche; and continue up a white, wrinkled wall and slab to a finish up the left-hand of two steep, short cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the unprotected dark slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up the ramp steeply rightwards and finish awkwardly leftwards below the prow.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb Rakish Crack for 4 metres, then step down right into a corner. Continue right along the break beneath the bulges to gain Step-Up. Move up continue rightwards and finish up the top section of The Rake.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the black groove defining the overhanging wall to its right, and continue up to the corner forming the direct finish to The Staircase. Follow the thin diagonal cracks leftwards across the wall to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Make a couple of thin moves to gain the brown groove and follow it on improving holds. Where Capricorn joins from the right; step left and finish up the cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
Move back for a metre and up to follow twin diagonal cracks into Gemini. Move rightwards around a small bulge to reach and follow more diagonal cracks to within 2 metres of the rib of Aries. Gain Aries by a thin horizontal break and finish up its top section.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Down-climb the slab to gain the lower, thinner break-line. Hand traverse this rightwards, relishing the appearance of a foothold seam, until the break-line fades. Step up to the main break (End Game), and finish carefully up the final wall of Nuts on the Line.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the blunt rib forming the left edge of the slab to its apex. Pull straight through the roof and finish up the wall.

Additional info:
Wall Climb feels stiff for the grade (VD)–suggest S 4a!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Traverse the grey wall on the right via its mid-height break. Smooth moves and poorly protected!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp and continue up the flake and crack system to the left end of the central overlap. Continue up the grooves and cracks, past a small overlap and finish up the short corner on the left. Wonderful, straightforward climbing; which wouldn’t be out of place at Bosigran!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the clean slab to a ledge, then move up and rightwards, before following a groove formed by a flakepinnacle. Move right and climb a steeper groove, past a spike, and finish up the right side of the brown headwall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the gangway and make a tricky move left onto the slab. Continue to easier ground and finish up the prominent corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull leftwards onto the fine rib and follow it to the top, with a tricky move around the left side of the roof.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the steep wall and slab to the roof. Pull over using the thin breaks and continue to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb through the niche and continue up the flaky cracks above.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the smooth-looking slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the chocolaty brown groove, with an awkward move at the overlap.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Descend for 2 metres (mid tide and below!); and traverse right below a roof. Pull through its right-hand end on large holds, before following cracks rightwards and up to gain the small overhang on Don’t Wave Now. Overcome the overhang on its right at a quartz vein; and continue straight up the vein to reach Fly Past, and finish up this.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up leftwards along a ramp and continue leftwards up across the black wall to a ledge. Finish with trepidation up the rib on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab past the porthole-sized pocket. No belays; necessitating a down-climn (VD)just to the right (looking in)!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow Zimm to just above the barnacles. Step left, and continue diagonally leftwards to finish up the crack in the left side of the rounded bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb Bathosphere to just below the ledge on the left. Traverse the break rightwards to gain Nigel Likes to Sunbathe. Step up, then foot-traverse the wide break and step onto the block. Finish up the thin, left-slanting crack above the right edge of the block. A route of contrasts; straightforward traversing, followed by a stiffer finish!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the slab direct, with a thin finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step up left and follow the flake crack (hollow) up the slab to a tricky finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Descend and cross the gap to the large shelf on the left. From below the right edge of the overhangs, pull onto the black slab and climb up rightwards to gain and finish as for Dark Times.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the right-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the V-groove formed by the rock scar and continue to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Tip-toe left along the lip of the overhangs for 2 metres; then follow the sinuous cracks up the slab to easier ground. The prominent crack running up the slab immediately right is Purizen (10m D Clarke 25.6.13).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left side of the wall; pull over the bulge and follow the rib on the left to a ledge. Climb a short wall (optional belay) and finish up the left side of the corner taken by pitch 2 of Arthur; with a nice move through the leftmost capping roof.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the blunt rib, pull over a steepening and finish up the brown wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up and surmount the small bulge to gain Orange Juice Blues. Step left onto the lip of the sloping overhang and finish delicately up the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow White Ramp for 8 metres, step up left, then back right to reach a scoop in the dark slab. Gain the scoop and follow it up leftwards for 3 metres; before finishing direct, serious!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the break just right of the bulge and move up to gain the left-slanting ramp in the right wall of the upper section of Nonentity. Follow the ramp and pull over the small bulge; before stepping right immediately to finish up the fine wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Trend rightwards up the wall and pull over the largest overhang via the leaning pinnacle on the left. Finish up the rib at the right end of the upper bulges, with an unexpectedly delicate move.

Pitch descriptions:
Walk horizontally rightwards across the slabs and step right onto the golden wall. Descend rightwards to the lower break (lowmid tide!), and follow this to gain a ledge at the entrance to the cove proper. Climb up leftwards to finish; excellent!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Follow Slab Recess to the kink below the final corner; swing down rightwards and traverse right into The Crack. Step up and make a foot traverse rightwards along the thin break, with a final difficult move to gain the diagonal of Rising Damp. Move up the slab and finish up the rib on the right as for Ashoken.

Additional info:
The name is the heraldic term for purple!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step down left onto a mid tide ledge below the diagonal crack. Move up this to gain a standing position on the protruding block, and finish up the strange, widening crack.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the curving groove, with a reach-dependent finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner and swing leftwards and up onto a flake. Continue up the left side of the arête to the top. Contrived, but a good physical workout!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp rightwards into the zawn, then climb up to finish up the shaky groove just right of the rib.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Gain the rib with difficulty, and follow its left side; until precarious moves rightwards and up gain the top.

Additional info:
The name comes from Greek Philosophy, where two facts confirm a fundamental truth. eg All men are mortal; All gods are immortal. Thus no man can become a god!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Gain the dark rock as for Charming, then keeping low, traverse right for 3 metres to better holds. Move up rightwards to reach a positive crackline and follow this to the ledge system. Finish up the slab above. Excellent climbing!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby rib, shallow groove and ridge to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Make an ascending traverse rightwards for 6 metres to reach a short corner in a steep rib just left of a large groove. Climb the short corner, pull out left and finish up the spiky ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the V-groove, then step out right onto the rib and follow this to the top. The V-groove itself gives Open Book (15m D Clarke 19.10.13).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right-slanting groove, immediately right of the mottled rib to a ledge. Finish up the corner on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Step right and follow the wide, right-slanting crack to a ledge. Pull onto the gangway above, and follow this rightwards to gain the right-hand of two grooves, and climb this to the top. Fine climbing, but poorly-protected!).

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble up the channel and climb the curving chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a slab up leftwards and pull around the left side of the bulges. Step left, then move up to gain the crest of the bulging buttress, which leads quickly to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
Cross the inlet and follow the grooveramp left of the overhangs to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a gain the V-groove, then make an awkward pull leftwards into a shallow groove. Follow this and the rib on the left to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner to the ledge system (optional belay); and finish up the left-trending ramp above. Belays over to the left.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack immediately right and continue directly up the crack system to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the groove to a ledge on the right, and climb directly up the cracks above to gain the finishing terrace.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Boulder out the twin cracks and climb the cracks above to the terrace.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the crack and continue up the crack and groove above.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the curving groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the slab on the right, then the upper rib, just right of the final section of Greenbeard Groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to blocks at the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall trending slightly leftwards near the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crackline leftwards and finish up a thinner crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rib, mainly on its left side.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the deep corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the arete, mainly on its left-hand side.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the stepped ledges on the right-hand side of the recess; and finish with difficulty up the thin, converging cracks. The rib above the stepped ledges gives Blue Yonder (6m S Clarke 14.11.13).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the crack through a small overlap near the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Start up Blasters Crack, then continue directly up the slab, passing the small overlap via the triple, thin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to gain a small overhang on the left edge of the wall. Step right and climb the centre of the wall; to a final flourish through the steepening at the top, just right of the final crack of Red Wall. Contrived and silly, but excellent!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb leftwards up the slab above the rock pool to gain a small projecting ledge. Continue direct to a larger projecting ledge. Follow the left-trending line of holds up the final slab to the top. Excellent, but serious!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to a triangular niche, step left and reach the summit.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the awkward crackline to the summit ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the delicate slab, then follow the cracks rightwards to finish up the edge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right-hand of two grooves cutting into the edge to a small bulge near the top. Step right and finish briskly.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the finger crack. Nice climbing and lightly-marked!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up to the left end of the bulge and step right onto the lip. Continue up the fine, grey slabby wall to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Traverse right (looking in) with difficulty for 2 metres to reach a wide crack. Climb the crack, chimney and corner to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b From a small shelf, step left into the niche at the base of the right-trending crack. Follow the crack on better than expected holds.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the awkward crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the facet wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-hand of the diverging cracks. The right-hand diverging crack is stiffer, Saddles (6m VS 4c Clarke 4.12.13).

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the wall and corner to the ledge, then the headwall just left of the thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b From the block, gain the sloping ledge and follow the left side of the edge to the top.

Additional info:
This little wall looks easy; till you realise that the usual good incuts don’t materialize. Most of the holds are sloping or rounded!

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and climb a rib on good holds, then finish leftwards up a slab. Very pleasant!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Gain a short shallow corner above with a thin crack in its back; before stepping left to finish up the slabs.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain and follow a flake crack up rightwards to a ledge. Finish rightwards up the slabs in a good position.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Step onto the wall and skirt rightwards around the small bulge; before stepping back left to below the overhang. Pull directly over the overhang and make a difficult move onto a small slab. Continue up to reach easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the short corner to a ledge. Follow the wide break above rightwards for 3 metres, until delicate moves across the brown wall on the left gain a slanting groove which leads to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the brown wall on slopers to an overhung shelf. Pull straight over the overhang and continue to easier ground.

Start location:
Follow the coast path westwards from the harbour, up the steps, and continue to the off-white beacon. Scramble down the broken rocks in front of the beacon to reach the top of a small, hidden zawn. Access to the zawn is by a scramble down its left-hand (looking out) bounding ridge (mid tide!). Start by a rock pool below a quartz-flecked slab leading up to the descent ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant slab.

Start location:
Start as for Beacon Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left above the rock pool for a metre or so to gain a shallow slanting groove, and follow this to the top.

Start location:
Start as for Dull Beacon.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left into the main channelgroove and follow it for 8 metres; before stepping up left to finish up the steeper, right-slanting rake.

Start location:
From the col before the final rise to the headland; descend leftwards (S) along a ramp system. After 50 metres a short, grey, overhanging wall is reached rising from a large flat ledge 6 metres above the sea. Start at the centre of this wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb rightwards up the wall, past the small triangular niche. Move up, and finish leftwards.

Start location:
Start 3 metres right of High Ball below a tapering chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the chimney from the right and follow it to gain a grassy recess above and right. Zig-zag upwards via the scrappy grooves to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the spike and follow the slabs above to finish up a short corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Commence a long horizontal leftwards traverse across the ledges; until a crucial step down gains a rock furrow. Follow this up leftwards to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the stepped groove to the bulge; then traverse awkwardly leftwards for 3 metres, before pulling up directly to finish.

Additional info:
Canute Part 2 repeated (both starts); grades confirmed!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the thin crack and pull through the steepening on its right.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull onto the shelf, and follow the quartz hold rightwards, via a short corner, until moves up gain the finishing slanting groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the V-groove to the overhang, then traverse left across the steep grey wall to finish up a ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Traverse right for 4 metres and climb the right edge of the impending wall. Follow the cracks leftwards for 2 metres and finish up the thin flake in the golden wall.

Additional info:
Named after the amazingly comfy rock armchair above the cliff; can you find it?