New Routes – Dartmoor

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Submitted by : Nick Taylor
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : South Hams, Sharp Tor
Date of ascent : 27/05/00
Route Name : We’re in Love
Length/grade/stars : VS 4c
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:Start up the slope from Four
Strong Winds, just right of the clean-cut overhang.Pitch description:
22m. Gain and climb the obvious v-groove then easier ground trending rightwards to a finishing corner/groove.

Additional info:
On-sight solo

Submitted by : Simon Young
Area : South Devon & Dartmoor
Crag : Dewerstone
Date of ascent : 23/07/2012
Route name : Agags Forgotten Brother
Length/grade/stars : Hard Diff (HD)
Climbers : Simon Young
Start location:
Go from the normal Dewerstone carpark and walk along path for less than 0.5 mile and turn off before reaching main face, head up to the rockface that includes routes such as Agags Slab, Noddy and Mambo Slab, go to the left hand side of face and the route starts in the corner 3 meters right of were Agags Slab starts.Pitch descriptions:
The route is a Hard Diff (HD), Route Description: Nice easy climb, good for beginners and people just starting to lead, Starts on right hand side of Agags Slab, follow the corner up till the large triangular rock with the tree on the right. Climb the right hand side of the triangular rock then top out by the heather on the rock, with the tree branch hanging above it.

Additional info:
style of ascent = Traditional, there is three known repeats, one additional lead, two seconds (one of them being my belayer when I did the route).

Submitted by : Jake Parrish
Crag : Shipley Tor
Date of ascent : 28/8/11
Route name : The Inbetweener
Length/grade/stars : 8m HVD
Climbers : T. HopkinsPitch descriptions:
Climb the wall in between Troy and Up Periscope direct to the top.
Submitted by : Will Hornby
Crag : Dewerstone
Date of ascent : 04/06/2014
Route name : Le Creme Noir
Length/grade/stars : 17m E4/5 6b two stars
Climbers : Will Hornby and James Mann
Start location:
Start as for La Bete Noir on the in extremis buttress.Pitch descriptions:
Climb La Bete Noir for ten feet until a small side pull is reached use this to make a large span to the middle of the face. From here climb the face direct to the top of the buttress.No side Runners or no holds in Creme broulee or La bete noir.

Additional info:
NO HOLDS OR GEAR ON ADJACENT ROUTES!!!

Submitted by : Nick Stephens
Crag : Dewerstone
Date of ascent : 10/05/15
Route name : Hidden Gem
Length/grade/stars : 25m HVS 5a
Climbers : Nick Stephens, Darcan Graham
Start location:
Immediately right of sloppy gulley and below and left of a prominent bollard on Bewildered.Pitch descriptions:
Starting below a relatively blank wall left of a meandering vertical crack, climb up the face using the vertical cracks the right to a bollard. Keep going until you reatch the tree. Finish as for Bewilderedness.
Comment Submitted by : Ken Daykin
Crag : The Dewerstone
Date : 21/07/2016
Route name : Leviathon

Comment

This route has a very good abseil station at the top of pitch one (July 2016) and it is clear that most climbers abseil from here instead of continuing to the top of Central Groove. Preferable if you are going to do Central Groove or Climbers Club Ordinary or both in the same day otherwise you do the same pitch three times.
Route name : Climbers Club Ordinary

Comment

This is really a comment about S West Climbs vol 2 page 133.

I suggest that in a future edition more prominence should be given to this route. It is an excellent, continuously interesting climb that feels quite adventurous at the grade. Also a few more guides might get sold to Classic Rock tickers!
Calling it Climbers Club Original or even just Climbers Club would help give a better impression too!

In SW climbs Vol 2 it says ‘finish at the top corner of Leviathon’ I think it should be ‘Finish up the top corner of Central Groove’.
Route name : Route B

Comment

First pitch is quite tough. Should the grade be Hard Severe?

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Myrtle Turtle Quarry (p 56)
Date of ascent: 13/03/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Mock Turtle

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres LEFT of The Shaky Flake at a small right-angled corner.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the corner and avoid the gorse cornice by escaping left and up.

Tauriel

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Start 1 metre LEFT of Angin’ Wiv Me Bitches.

Pitch descriptions:

Trend rightwards up the left side of the prow. The wall 1 metre left again is interesting, Quizzical Myrtle (6m S 4b Clarke 13.3.2017)

Stepping Out

Length/grade/stars: 12m D

Start location:

Start 6 metres LEFT of Myrtle Turtle at a line of stepped rock.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the steps up rightwards, taking care with the rock in places.

Additional info:

  1. This quarry is well worth a visit, the S-facing wall is clean, usually dry and very sheltered! There is potential for more thin wall climbs (bring blade pegs?).
  2. Angin’ Wiv Me Bitches is actually 12 metres right of Terry Terrapin, not 20!
Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Holywell Tor (p62)
Date of ascent: 13/03/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Bow Wow

Length/grade/stars: 8m VD

Start location:

Above Slow Show on the summit area is a cluster of slabby walls, identified by a huge flat block in front and an attractive curved rib on its left. Start below the curved rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the pleasant rib.

Sootblowers

Length/grade/stars: 9m VD

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Bow Wow.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Pull onto the nose, continue up and finish up the blunt rib.

Submitted by: : Barry Clarke
Crag: Holwell Tor (p 62)
Date of ascent: 15/03/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Drunken Buttress

Length/grade/stars: 9m HS

Start location:

The summit rocks of the Tor contain a swaggering buttress formed of four piled sections, facing north towards Hound Tor.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Start awkwardly up the right edge of the buttress, and trend leftwards, then rightwards to the top.

Super Moon Play

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Thirty metres below and left (facing out) of Drunken Buttress an attractive slab indicates the location of an interesting buttress with a curving chimney crack in its centre; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the flakes in the rib just left of the chimney crack to the main break. Traverse left, mantel and finish up the left side of the upper slab via the shallow scoop. May become a mini-classic, but the direct version is an open project, which will be superb and serious!

Ides Chimney and Flake

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start as for Super Moon Play.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the right side of the chimney crack, before launching leftwards along the flake to gain the top.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Bell Tor (p 92)
Date of ascent: 26/03/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Gramp

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Twenty metres right of Problem 3, a grey ramp slants leftwards above and left of a low rectangular roof, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb a short subsidiary rib, step right and make an awkward move to start the ramp and follow it more easily to the top.

Bel Canto

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Just above Problem 3 is a moss-flecked slab with an attractive rounded rib on its left-hand side. Start below the rounded rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the unprotected rib daintily. Immediately right, the left-to-right seam in the moss-flecked slab gives a pleasant tip-toe experience; Quick Steps (8m VD Clarke 26.3.17)

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Foggintor Quarry (p 262)

Pea Souper

Date of ascent: 27/03/2017
Length/grade/stars: 13m HD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Saturday Night Finger.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the right edge of the black wall to a ledge. Finish up the rib above, starting up the wall to its left, to a choice of 15 stake belays!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Honeybag Tor (p 96)

Moneybag Edge

Date of ascent: 02/04/2017
Length/grade/stars: 8m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 3 metres left of Crack Pot below the left edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the spiky lower part of the edge to a finish up the more rounded upper section. Try to avoid the temptation of stepping left onto the large block at half-height.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Heltor Rock (p 208)

Skelter

Date of ascent: 11/04/2017
Length/grade/stars: 15m D
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Maximagur.

Pitch descriptions:

From the floor-level boulder stretch across to flake handholds and continue up the slab to the bulge. Move right below this and finish up the pleasant right-trending flakes.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Tunhill Rocks (p 75)
Date of ascent: 13/04/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Beyoncé Castle

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start on the right-hand side of The Knobbly Roof (p78).

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the lip of the high roof by a stride from the right and follow the knobs leftwards. Make a bold move around the rib and follow the breaks leftwards to a step-off. A bouncy castle needed, rather than a mat!

Streak

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres below and left of The Eden Project (problem 27), and just above the stone wall is a taller slab with a shallow overlap on its right and a reasonably clean white streak on its left. Start below the streak, behind a gorse bush.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain and climb the white streak; delicate and unprotected!

Additional info:

For problem 1; the action photo of the lady climber is actually on the opposite side of the boulder to problems 1,2 and 3 (see photo-topo below, p 75)! The final problem no. 34 is a mystery. I suspect it’s the big crack on the left mentioned in problem 32, and does contain a chockstone (wobbly)!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Myrtle Turtle Quarry (p 56)
Date of ascent: 21/04/2017
Climbers: BJ Carke (solo)

Philagree

Length/grade/stars: 6m HS

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of The Legend of Pip at a short wall below a terrace.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Step off the pointed boulder, pull past a nose of rock and gain the terrace. Dig in the fingers and haul up the short wall to the top.

Stoatical

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Twelve metres right of Timmy Tortoise is a slabby flying rib, notched at half height.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left side of the flying rib.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Bench Tor (p244)
Date of ascent: 24/05/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Pancake Hugger

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start as for Dart Wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a The arête immediately left of Dart Wall is climbed direct to a huggable finish using opposing flakes. Just right, the slight corner, inset wall and flying rib give Drat (6m S Clarke 24.5.17).

Scooples

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Immediately right of Rite On are two stacked blocks, a further 3 metres right a scoop defines the left edge of a mossy wall. Start below and right of the scoop.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Make steep moves up the ledgy wall to gain the scoop. Follow it and finish up the slab on the left.

Submitted by: M Scott
Crag: Greator Rocks, Eastern Tor

The Long Approach

Date of ascent: 03/06/17
Length/grade/stars: 14m HVD
Climbers: H Scott (lead), M Scott

Start location:

3m left of Cheese Greator at left edge of wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Start on big holds and move up to ledge. Move upwards and right to join Cheese Greator below the nest to the grassy finish.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Leedon Tor (p 286)
Date of ascent: 26/05/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Tilted Pancakes

Length/grade/stars: 8m HS

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of Amid Devonian Alps at a short, chest-level crack at the left side of an attractive wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb straight up the wall and move through the bulge at the wide crack. Pull through the pancakes to finish.

Room to Breathe

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Dartmoor Roamer.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the right-hand side of the rib, moving slightly leftwards over the small capping roof.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: King’s Tor (p 270)
Date of ascent: 01/06/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Sospan Bach

Length/grade/stars: 8m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Stonechat Wall at a small projecting ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make a tricky step up onto the ledge and follow the rounded breaks above directly.

King’s Row

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Forty metres right of Stonechat Rib is a small slabby wall facing the radio mast. It sports a rounded rib on the left and two cracks on its right. Start below the rounded rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the rib, mainly on its left side. To the right, the left-hand crack is Applejack (6m VD Clarke 1.6.17). Whilst the right-hand crack is slightly trickier, Applejill (7m VD Clarke 1.6.17).

Prowd Pancakes

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Thirty metres away from King’s Row in the direction of the radio mast is a rounded buttress, capped by two flattish, elongated blocks. Start below the prow at the left side of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4a By-pass the prow on the left and stride rightwards onto it. Traverse right for 2 metres, then move up and leftwards to finish via the obvious horn.

Additional info:

When approaching this Tor from the Four Winds car park, keep to the right, heading for the corner of a stone wall. This provides the only crossing place for the small but deep stream; and also avoids the grimp and mire 100 metres to the left!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Swell Tor Quarry (p 268)

Swollen by Ledges

Date of ascent: 01/06/2017
Length/grade/stars: 10m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Thirty metres left of Sure Swell the final buttress comprises a stepped, slabby ridge. Start on the right side of the ridge.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Teeter up the ridge and mantel quickly onto a small ledge. Move up to the grassy ledge, from where a steep pull gains the upper scrambly ridge.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Bel Tor (p 243)

Belafonte

Date of ascent: 03/06/2017
Length/grade/stars: 6m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Just north of the main mass is by far the Tor’s best feature; a short attractive wall facing the car park. Start below the vanishing, central crack of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Start up the central crack, and finish up the crack above and right. The rib at the right end of the wall via layaways is Belair (5m S 4a Clarke 3.6.17). Whilst a left-to-right, mid-height traverse is Severe.

Additional info:

Of bouldering height, and probably both been done before. However, the appalling nature of the landings would make traditional grades more apt!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Mis Tor (p 274)
Date of ascent: 09/06/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Mistletoe

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Misanthrope.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the fine inset pillar.

Dingo’s Donger

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start as for Misanthrope.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Step right and follow the right edge of the wall, stepping left onto the eponymous knob to finish.

Mizzen

Length/grade/stars: 6m D

Start location:

Start 3 metres left of Misanthrope.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb slightly leftwards through the short, roof-capped corner and finish up the slabby rib.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Staple Tor (p 284)
Date of ascent: 14/06/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Staple Diet

Length/grade/stars: 6m VD

Start location:

Start immediately right of Stapled Down.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the nice little rib on good holds. This now becomes the easiest way down sans rope!

Magma Ice

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Fifty metres right (in the direction of the radio mast) of the short right-hand tower containing Stapled Down is a particularly attractive buttress. It is bounded on its left by a deep gully and has a blunt rib in its centre. Start at the deep gully.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the steep left wall of the gully on amazing holds, moving slightly left near the top.

Maskelyne

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Magma Ice on a flat block.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step onto the buttress and shuffle leftwards, passing a magnificent chicken-head, to gain and follow the left edge of the buttress.

Equatermass

Length/grade/stars: 10m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Maskelyne below a shelf at the right end of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Gain the shelf from the right and traverse daintily leftwards, moving up slightly, to gain the blunt rib. Finish elegantly up this.

Additional info:

On Roos Tor, Kanga D, felt more like S 4a, despite a recent spring-clean!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Shipley Tor (p. 328)

Glen Slab

Date of ascent: 17/06/2017
Length/grade/stars: 7m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Up Periscope

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slabby right wall of the chimney. Barely independent, but pleasant!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Tunhill Rocks (p 73)

Slash

Date of ascent: 19/06/2017
Length/grade/stars: 8m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start just right of Streak (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull steeply over onto the easy-angled slab and pull through the overlap in the vicinity of an incipient crack.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Honeybag Tor (p 96)
Date of ascent: 20/06/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Blacker Road

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of Crack Pot where throw diminishes at a flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the flake crack and trend leftwards to finish up the right side of the rounded rib with the crux at the top.

Pugh

Length/grade/stars: 15m VD

Start location:

Eight metres left of Problem No. 4 is the longest sweep of slab at the Tor. Start at the right toe of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow a line of weakness up leftwards, pulling through the top bulge on its right. Dry conditions desirable.

Barley Mew

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres left of Pugh, below a boss of rock.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb past the boss and follow the steeper slab above. Left of the finish of Barley Mew is an attractive slab whose front face gives the peasant; Hugh(10m D Clarke 20/06/17).

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Nestor Rock (P 220)

Chortle

Date of ascent: 23/06/2017
Length/grade/stars: 8m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start midway between Wart-ho and Warts’n’ All

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the wall via the shallow crack and continue up the short rib to finish as for Warts,’n’ All.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Holwell Quarry (p58)

Junket Slabs

Date of ascent: 26/06/2017
Length/grade/stars: 18m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Twenty metres right of Sausage Lossage is a short slab containing an ear-like flake.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb rightwards around the flake. Cross the next slab and climb the third slab by its left edge to below the final slab. From the tree on the left step right and pad up the slab to the summit. A short leap gains the mainland.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Holwell Tor (p 62)

Woofer

Date of ascent: 26/06/2017
Length/grade/stars: 7m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Bow Wow (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Move up and step right onto the sidewall of the gully. Follow the impending narrow crack, keeping right at the top to gain a useful finishing flake.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Emsworthy Rocks (p 70)

Empathy

Date of ascent: 01/07/2017
Length/grade/stars: 7m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Sixty metres north of The Lonely Traverse is a more substantial buttress; identified by prominent, well-rounded breaks, with a horizontal rock tooth just to their left. Start 3 metres below and left of the tooth at a flake.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Start the flake and gain the shelf on the right awkwardly. Continue right and haul up onto the tooth to a straightforward finish.

Additional info:

Lots of potential here (suggested name for area, Emsworthy North?), for hard highballs and routes. The showpiece, a horizontal 2 metre wide roof. Go for it, it’s one of the last great problems on Dartmoor!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Saddle Tor (p 64)
Date of ascent: 02/07/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Drifter

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Four metres right of Firing Squad a short impending corner has a blunt rib just to its left, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the rib and trend rightwards through the upper bulge.
The wall 2 metres left via the suspect spikes at the bulge is Tramp (6m S Clarke 2.7.17).

Korma Korner

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Twelve metres left of Chicken Tikka, around a corner past a pinnacle, a subsidiary wall lies below and right of a stepped ridge

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left side of the subsidiary wall, rock onto the stepped ridge from the right and continue to the top.

Saddle Up

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre left of Korma Korner below a wide crack formed by suspect blocks.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain and climb the wide crack followed by the wall on the left.

Date of ascent: 06/07/2017

Sidle Salad

Length/grade/stars: 10m VS

Start location:

Ten metres left of the finish of Saddle Up (CC Website) a gully, whose left side is formed by a buttress containing two vertical runnels divided by a bulge. The lower runnel is wide, whilst the upper narrow and decorated by seasonal flowers. Start in the gully below the lower runnel.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Step across and follow the runnel to the bulge. Move awkwardly right a metre or so to discover a small flake on the bulge. Once a standing position is gained on the flake an easier slab leads to the top. Poorly protected, with a serious start!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Holywell Tor (p 62)
Date of ascent: 10/07/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Ragtag

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Just below Ides Chimney and Flake (CC Website) are two rib-like buttresses divided by a silver birch. Start below the left-hand rib, beware of hidden, foot trapping crevasses in this vicinity.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the right side of the rib via the flakes, taking care with the final hollow one.

Bobtail

Length/grade/stars: 8m HS

Start location:

Start at the whale-back ridge below the right-hand rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Gain the ridge awkwardly and follow it to a nose on the upper rib. Make a tricky step up onto the left side of the nose and continue to the top.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Mis Tor (p 274)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 12/07/2017

Mister Men

Length/grade/stars: 8m VD

Start location:

Thirty metres right of Mister Stickweed is a large, tiered tor. The lower two tiers on its south side (facing the radio mast) provide a few interesting routes. Start 1 metre right of the left edge of the fine lower wall at an intermittant crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack to a ledge and finish up the knobbly crack above and right. Whilst at the top, admire the beautiful unclimbed wall on the left. So far it has only been breached on its right side of its right edge, starting from the pinnacle block; Miscreant (5m VD Clarke 12.7.17).

Misterioso

Length/grade/stars: 8m HS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Mister Men at a thin right-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the fine crack and make an awkward move onto the ledge; finish leftwards up a scoop. Two metres further right a broken crack leads via a loose block to the ledge and a smooth finish up the slabby wall; Mysteek (8m S 4b Clarke 12.7.17).

Squeeze the Breeze

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Ten metres right of Misterioso around a corner is an alcove; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left-hand corner of the alcove, pull into the tight chimney, which thankfully, can be exited quickly.

Date of ascent: 17/07/2017

Tooth Plaque

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Eighteen metres across the way from Misanthrope is a square block with a prow on its right (clearly seen in the photo p 274). Right of the prow is vertical, west-facing wall liberally adorned with metolius plaques and chicken-heads (Suggested name for this section, Plaque Wall?). Start 2 metres right of the prow at a short left-leaning corner.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the corner and the broken cracks above, which prove surprisingly tricky.

Plaque ‘Ard

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Tooth Plaque.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the wall via the conspicuous flake. Step right and make the best use of the cracks above to gain the top. Just right, the wall and flake crack give another worthwhile route; Implaqueable (6m S 4a Clarke 17.7.17).

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Little Mis Tor (p 273)
Date of ascent: 17/07/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Giddy UP

Length/grade/stars: 6m VD

Start location:

Immediately right of the buttress containing Piebald etc, is a gully with a block.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left side of the impending rib just right of the block.

No Picnic at Hanging Rock

Length/grade/stars: 8m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Hacking at a Short rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the rib to the picnic ledge. Follow the centre of the wall above, finishing just right of the shallow vertical crease.

Hi Ho Silver Lining

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres left of No Picnic at Hanging Rock and just right of the tourist route up the Tor.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb direct to the flake in the underside of the roof and make a nicely technical move over.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Staple Tor (p 284)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 20/07/2017

Corinth Ingol

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of In Charge of Small Children at a short rib on the adjacent tower.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Move up the short rib and the flake above and left to a large ledge. Make awkward moves up rightwards to gain a sloping ledge below a curious rounded scoop. Traverse precariously right and step up and left to follow a rib to the summit. To descend without a rope; reverse the final 3 metres of the route and step off rightwards.

Cat and Canary

Length/grade/stars: 9m HVS

Start location:

Start as for Equatermass.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Gain the shelf form the right, then follow the fine, multi-coloured rib above, first on the left, then on the right.

Date of ascent: 24/07/2017

Anti-Gravity

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Start as for Magma Ice.

Pitch descriptions:

Bridge and chimney up the gully for 4 metres, then swing rightwards, using a good hidden flake, to the edge. Finish up this as for Maskelyne.

Lovell

Length/grade/stars: 9m VS

Start location:

Start as for Maskelyne.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the centre of the wall, keeping just right of the chicken-head (runner!), to finish slightly leftwards through the top bulge.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Links Tor (p 236)
Date of ascent: 25/07/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Col Ridge

Length/grade/stars: 8m D

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of …Special To Me

Pitch descriptions:

From the col scramble up the stepped ridge, via an interesting move at half-height.

Blueberry Hill

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Eighty metres south-west of the trig point (towards Widgery Cross), a small outcrop sports a pleasant rippled wall on its west side, with a small cutaway towards its right side; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step right out of the cutaway and move up to a sloping ledge. Finish on good holds just left of the edge. From the left side of the cutaway, the wall and slab leads pleasantly leftwards; Raspberry Ripple (8m S 4a Clarke 25.7.17).

Additional info:

40 mins approach time is a bit optimistic; with a light soloing sac and no rests it took me one and a quarter hours! The Tor is very mossy with only The Great Flake, Lynx and (unfortunately) the easier cracks climbable without a good brushing!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Irish Man’s Wall Crags (p 224)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 27/07/2017

Double or Quits

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Caffrey’s at a short wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the wall to the large ledge and finish up the prow on the right.

Booze Cruise

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start as for Murphy’s.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Starting with hands on the jug, move right and pull through the low roof to gain more stuck-ons, which lead to an awkward finish.

Shillelagh

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

One hundred and twenty metres South-west of the main crags is a small broken tor (visible on photo, p 225!). Its South-east face however is interesting and is a sheltered haven in strong westerlies! Roughly in the centre of the face is a V-recess with an attractive rib to its left; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step up left onto the rib and follow it with pleasure. The right-slanting grassy groove in the right wall of the recess proves surprisingly stylish; Groovy (6m D Clarke 27.7.17).

Date of ascent: 01/08/2017

Fingertipster

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start as for Shillelagh.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the fine eliminate wall immediately right of Shillelagh. Right again the right-bounding rib of the V-recess, climbed directly proves interesting; Begorrah (6m S 4b Clarke 1.8.17).

Blarney

Length/grade/stars: 7m D

Start location:

Eight metres right of Shillelagh, the highest rocks of the face comprise a rounded prow which still awaits a direct ascent. A further 3 metres right is an easy-angled rib; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the pleasant rib.

Tiree

Length/grade/stars: 6m D

Start location:

Twelve metres LEFT of Shillelagh the face ends at an attractive slab just left of a tree.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the nice slab, finishing up its right edge.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Smallacombe Rocks (p 28)

Godliness

Date of ascent: 31/07/2017
Length/grade/stars: 8m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Sixty metres down and right of Death Jug Mantel (problem 11!) is a bulging buttress split by a wide crack; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the wide crack and the continuation runnel above. Just right the rib, gained from the left, and the slab above, give; Cleanliness (7m S 4a Clarke 31.7.17).

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Holywell Tor (p 62)

Mountain Greenery

Date of ascent: 06/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 8m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Sootblowers at a green, overhung recess.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull rightwards around the recess to gain a standing position on a shelf. Finish up the slab and scoop.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Greator Rocks (p 122)

Lobo

Date of ascent: 06/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 12m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start just left of Tools You Can Trust, on the opposite side of the gully.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the rib on large rounded holds. Continue up the slab and jagged pinnacle to the top.

Submitted by: Matt George
Crag: Bovey Woods

Children of the Underworld

Date of ascent: 26/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 10m HVS 5a
Climbers: Matt George, Tom Last

Start location:

In the lower Shaptor area/Pixies Copse. The route climbs the obvious wide crack immediately left of Dying Light.

Pitch descriptions:

Obligatory off-widthing up the obvious wide crack.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Links Tor (p 236)
Date of ascent: 10/08/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Falconry

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Looking east from the Fox and Hounds car park a pinnacle buttress is clearly seen on the skyline (named as Arms Tor on the OS Landranger map!). Approach as for Great Links Tor, taking approximately 20 minutes. On the main block of the pinnacle buttress facing the car park are two, short, disjointed cracks; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the cracks and teeter onto the sloping shelf. Gain the prow from the right and follow it to the top.

Hollow Earth

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Start 8 metres right of Falconry.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the wall and pull through the upper bulge via the hollow flakes.

Armadillo

Length/grade/stars: 9m HS

Start location:

Nine metres right of Hollow Earth is a higher wall crowned by a neb on its right. Start below the centre of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Move up then rightwards across the wall, before finishing up the neb.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Myrtle Turtle Quarry (p 56)

Perplexed Porpoise

Date of ascent: 12/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 9m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke, M Gardener, P Ellis

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Timmy Tortoise on a glacis, below a cleaned narrow ledge at 2 metres.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Gain the narrow ledge and pull up the two short corners above, before swinging left and up to finish.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Greator Rocks

Joyful Rib

Date of ascent: 13/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 16m D
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Twenty metres left of the right edge of the Western Tor, on the shady north side facing Hound Tor; an attractive, slender, slabby rib takes the full height of the Tor. Start at its foot.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the rib with much pleasure.

Additional info:

Worth recording as a nice straightforward climb up a fine feature. Must have been done many times, bizarrely, the first four holds had been recently brushed?

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Sheeps Tor (p 296)

Lambency

Date of ascent: 15/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 11m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 8 metres left of Play Crack at a red wall. There is a roof 7 metres above from which spring two flake cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the short rib just right of the red wall and continue to the roof. Make a strenuous pull up the right-hand flake crack and step right onto the prow, which is followed delicately to the top.

Additional info:

The left-hand flake crack above the roof, accessed from the red wall gives; Fleeced (10m S 4a Clarke 15.8.17). Two interesting, but rather broken little routes!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Holwell Quarry (p 58)

47 Ronin

Date of ascent: 19/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 10m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Spasm Chasm.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow the ramp up rightwards for 4 metres, then pull out leftwards onto the stepped wall. Trend leftwards up the wall, to finish with a poorly-protected mantel just right of the apex.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Holywell Tor (p 62)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 19/08/2017

Druffen Duck

Length/grade/stars: 6m VD

Start location:

Start 3 metres left of Drunken Buttress

Pitch descriptions:

Step off the embedded block and climb the wall to a ledge. Finish up the nice rib above.

Date of ascent: 01/09/2-17

Conga del Fuega

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Eight metres left of Young, Gifted and Black are two chimneys. Start below the left-hand chimney, the cleaner and narrower of the two, on a terrace with a tree stump.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Somehow enter the chimney and cavort upwards; Once a flake is reached things ease!

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Staple Tor

Accelerating the Particles

Date of ascent: 24/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 20m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Equatermass (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow Equatermass leftwards to the rib, continue left past the chicken-head and stride across the gully onto the stuck-on holds of Magma Ice. Trend leftwards to finish over the flat prow.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Honeybag Tor
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 02/09/2017

Rowse Rib

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Hugh (CC Website) at a pointed boulder below a V-groove capped by a bulge.

Pitch descriptions:

From the top of the boulder step left onto the rib, move over a slight overlap and continue up the slab to the top; elegant!

Date of ascent: 07/09/2017

Trickling White Honey

Length/grade/stars: 21m S

Start location:

Start as for Blacker Road (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the flake crack of Blacker Road, then traverse immediately leftwards across the hanging slab to reach the crack of Crack Pot. Make a move down and step across the crack to a large ledge. Step left and move up and left to reach Moneybag Edge and finish up this.

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Hound Tor

Summit Fever

Date of ascent: 06/09/2017
Length/grade/stars: 10m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke, M Parsons, L Presneill

Start location:

The north-west side of the Western (summit) Block sports an arête facing towards the route Paddy etc on the Eastern Block. The arête is defined by a steep wall on its right and a wide, right-slanting cleft on its left. Start in a grassy bay below the arête.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Scramble up left then rightwards to gain the wide, right-slanting cleft. Contort up the cleft to an uncomfortable position on a ledge. Make a precarious reach for the flakes on the arête itself, and finish up these in an excellent position.

The Haytor Area > The Haytor Approach Crags > Saddle Tor

Codeine Forever

7m S 4a
06-Jul-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Drifter (2.7.2017, CC Website) below an overhanging flake. Pull rightwards over a small bulge to a scoop. Finish delicately leftwards up the slab.

The Haytor Area > The Haytor Approach Crags > Emsworthy Rocks

Cod Peace

7m S
06-Jul-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres left of Empathy (1.7.2017, CC Website) at a corner below a roof at 3 metres. Climb the left wall of the corner and pull onto a ledge just left of the roof. Move up, and finish up the slab immediately right of the upper crack.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > Great Staple Tor

Run With It

8m S 4b
20-Aug-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Midway between Stapled Down (guidebook) and the buttress containing Maskelyne etc (14/6/2017, CC Website) is a fine, short clean wall. Towards its left side is a corner below a bulge, start here. Pull through the bulge above the corner and finish up the left-trending runnel. Walk up the slab to gain block belays.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > Great Staple Tor

Black Hole

9m VD
20-Aug-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Two metres left of Magma Ice (14/6/2017, CC Website), a wide crack cuts through a roof, start just left of this at a corner. Climb the corner and chimney to a pleasant finish up the flake on the left.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > The Mis Tors

Sod’s Lore

8m VS 4b
26-Aug-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Mister Stickweed below a clean wall. Climb the wall and move right below the roof. Make a delicate step up left onto the lip and continue to the top.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > The Mis Tors

Stoked Ashes

7m HS 4b
26-Aug-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Thirty-five metres right of Remiss is a wall with a prow at its right end. Immediately left of the prow is a square-cut chimney. Start below the prow. Climb the right-hand side of the prow and step left above the roof. Follow the upper section of the prow more easily. Superb! The square-cut chimney itself is D.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > Great Staple Tor

Red Run

7m S 4a
01-Sep-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Run With It (20/8/19, CC Website). Trend up leftwards to gain the fine twin finishing cracks. The right-hand finish via the shallow groove and frowning metolius has the same grade.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > Great Staple Tor

Mars

7m S 4b
01-Sep-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Red Run below the clean wall. Gain the cutaway and continue up the wall to the top. Fine climbing, easier for the tall. Three metres right, the attractive rib, starting on its left and finishing on its right-hand side is Tors Fore Play (7n VD BJ Clarke,solo, 1.9.19).

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > King’s Tor

Shady Deal

7m HS 4a
18-Sep-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of King’s Crack (book) below a steep crack. Move up and left and use the jammed block to gain a ledge below a short, north-facing groove. Climb the groove with a precarious exit.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > King’s Tor

Mellow Drama

7m VD
18-Sep-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of King’s Row (1/6/17, CC Website) below a wide crack at the left side of a fine wall, and 2 metres right of a corner chimney with ivy-clad walls. Climb the wall immediately right of the wide crack using its edge, then the crack itself to finish.

The Bovey & Teign Valleys > Lustleigh Cleave > Sharpitor & The Nutcrackers

COVID Crack

12m E1 5b ☆☆
10-Jul-2020, Tom Dixon
Climb the hand crack 2 meters left of Bamboozled on perfect jams to the horizontal break at 7 meters. Arrange gear, before climbing the left arête of the buttress on thin smears and crystals (runout), before latching a final top out jug and pulling onto the top of the buttress. The oak tree growing behind the top section lends significant psychological support for the run out, and if this ever goes, the route may feel more like E2-E3. Furthermore, a side-runner in the top of the Bamboozled crack could lessen the run out to make it more like HVS. Historical note: The name was chosen due to the recent global pandemic, the fact that the first ascent was put up shortly after the easing of UK-wide lockdown, and the first-ascensionists being newly-qualified doctors who had their medical training cut short to work on the frontline in NHS hospitals during the crisis.

The Bovey & Teign Valleys > Lustleigh Cleave > Sharpitor & The Nutcrackers


Lah-Hole Banter

6M VD
10-Jul-2020, Tom Dixon
Climb the offwidth crack 3 meters left of Bamboozled on arm-bars, stacked hands/fists and blocky foot-holds, before exiting left at ground level before the top of the pinnacle.

The Bovey & Teign Valleys > Lustleigh Cleave > Sharpitor & The Nutcrackers

Bamboozled (alternate finish)

16m HVS 5b ☆☆
10-Jul-2020, Tom Dixon
This alternate finish of the original route bypasses the technical crux of Bamboozled, allowing the route to be climbed at a more amenable grade. Climb the narrowing offwidth crack of Bamboozled until its end, then traverse left with feet in the final break to the left arête of the buttress to finish on thin smears and crystals (as for COVID crack).

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > The Mis Tors

Mischief

6m VD
29-May-2020, B J Clarke (solo)
Climb the corner crack 2 metres right of Stoked Ashes (CC Website 26/8/19); using the creaky flakes with care! Three metres right, the pleasant, clean cracks are Stimrol (6m S 4a Clarke 29.5.20).

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > King’s Tor

Squeezebox

9m S 4b
01-Jun-2020, B J Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of King’s Crack as for Shady Deal (CC Website 18/9/19), below a steep chimney. Climb the chimney to a ledge on the left below the roof. Struggle past the constriction and finish more easily.

Moors Tors South > Princetown Area > King’s Tor

Hold Thief

10m S 4a
01-Jun-2020, B J Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Squeezebox at a rib. Step off a boulder onto the rib, step right and move up to the break. Reach the next break by borrowing holds in the corner (King’s Crack). Tiptoe left and move up to gain the finishing crack. Note: The direct version looks reachy and unprotectable!

The Haytor Area > The Haytor Approach Crags > Holwell Tor

Moon Play Direct

10m VS 4c
02-Jun-2020, B J Clarke (solo-headpoint!)
Start 1 metre left of Super Moon Play. Climb the left side of the rib and step rightwards onto it. Move immediately left into a flake crack containing a small spike and follow it to the main break. Finish up the blunt nose above. Fine, bold climbing!

The Haytor Area > The Haytor Approach Crags > Holwell Quarry

Pig’s Ear

7m HS 4b
25-May-2023, Adrian Gude
Layback the obvious flake 3 metres to the right of Sausage Lossage. Once established on top of the flake, finish easily.

The Haytor Area > The Haytor Approach Crags > Haytor Rocks

Route Comment: West Chimney

01-Jan-1970,
Hello, I climbed a route in the Dartmoor guidebook (Haytor North Face) called West Chimney rated at Diff. Upon further inspection and a very tense climb I then came to the realisation that it was infact a route called North Face Chimney (VS 4b) which in the Dartmoor Guide has been Labelled as West Chimney (D). Would you look into correcting this/making climbers aware as I had to change my underwear after this experience and hope that no other novice climbers fall foul of my experience. Cheers Charlie

The Haytor Area > The Haytor Approach Crags > Holwell Quarry

Prosopagnosia

22m E4 5c ☆
06-Sep-2023, Tom Dixon, Dan Murray
Climbs the diagonal rib across the face between Jazoo and Brief Encounter. Start up the thin corner crack of Jazoo, to reach a rounded ledge at half height. Arrange gear in the crack (being careful to avoid the tempting but loose blocks at arms reach from the ledge) before questing out left across the obvious but ever-diminishing rib. Place (or don’t…) two lobes of a cam in a shallow slot before committing to the crux moves on marginal footholds which lead precariously to a proper ledge on the left side of the face. Finish up the top section of Brief Encounter. A fall from the crux would result in large swing and a likely ground-fall, unless the two-lobe cam placement manages to hold.