Myrtle Turtle Quarry, Dartmoor

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Myrtle Turtle Quarry (p 56)
Date of ascent: 13/03/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Mock Turtle

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres LEFT of The Shaky Flake at a small right-angled corner.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the corner and avoid the gorse cornice by escaping left and up.

Tauriel

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Start 1 metre LEFT of Angin’ Wiv Me Bitches.

Pitch descriptions:

Trend rightwards up the left side of the prow. The wall 1 metre left again is interesting, Quizzical Myrtle (6m S 4b Clarke 13.3.2017)

Stepping Out

Length/grade/stars: 12m D

Start location:

Start 6 metres LEFT of Myrtle Turtle at a line of stepped rock.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the steps up rightwards, taking care with the rock in places.

Additional info:

1. This quarry is well worth a visit, the S-facing wall is clean, usually dry and very sheltered! There is potential for more thin wall climbs (bring blade pegs?).
2. Angin’ Wiv Me Bitches is actually 12 metres right of Terry Terrapin, not 20!