Mother Carey’s Kitchen, Pembroke Stackpole & Lydstep

Comment Submitted by : Stephen Reid
Crag : Mother Carey’s Kitchen
Date : 14/10/2017
Route name : Threadneedle Street

Comment

This route is incorrectly shown in the CC selected guide. It is obvious from the description it should be shown starting from the lower right-hand cave. If you start from the upper left-hand cave you have to make an awkward drop down and traverse right not mentioned in the description. In addition, the lines of the upper parts of The Cracks and of Threadneedle Street appear to be wrong. Plus the pitch grades are also out. I would redescribe the route:

1. 20m 4c. From the back of the cave climb an awkward open chimney until it is possible to gain a ledge on the left under the roof of the cave. Drop down the other side of the wall a couple of metres to an exposed stance on a narrow ledge.*
2. 8m 4a. Traverse horizontally left to a block on the arete. Keep traversing left to a chimney and make a couple of moves up this to a fine stance.**
3. 12m 4b. Step out rightwards and climb the diagonal crack to the top.***

*Doing pitch 1 this way gives you a much better stance where you can see your second on pitch 1 and the second can see the leader on pitch 2 – and the belay is more secure.

**There is no need for the standing on the block stuff on pitch 2 – in fact this pitch barely warrants 4a, spectacular though it is.

***There are several cracks up this wall and you could probably finish up any of them at a similar grade but this seems the correct way from the description.