Morwenna Slabs, North Devon & Cornwall

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Morwenna Slabs (p 143)
Climbers: BJ Clarke(solo)

Date of ascent: 04/12/2017

Le Fanu

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

To the left (facing out) of Morwenna Slabs a row of 6 rock teeth branch out seawards from the vicinity of the waterfall. The first routes are on the fifth tooth (second leftwards from the most seawards tooth!). This tooth has a prominent yellow block forming an upper prow on its north side. Below and left of the block is a short V-groove cutting through a small bulge. Start 2 metres left of the V-groove below a small niche (mid-tide and below!).

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the niche and trend leftwards up the initial wall to a sloping ramp. Finish up the shallow groove in the yellow wall above, taking care with the rock.

Xanthus

Length/grade/stars: 16m D

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Le Fanu below the V-groove

Pitch descriptions:

Make pleasant moves up the V-groove then trend leftwards to a ledge. Move up and rightwards to finish up the curving crack defining the left side of the yellow block.

Additional info:

On Morwenna Slabs, the seaward slab has collapsed, leaving the top of the landward slab in a bric-a-brac state!

Date of ascent: 16/12/2017

Celadon

Length/grade/stars: 13m VD

Start location:

Twenty metres left of le Fanu (5th Tooth!), and roughly in the centre of the north face of the 4th Tooth is a wide break; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the break and the steeper ground above to finish up an indefinite groove.

Millarca

Length/grade/stars: 13m S

Start location:

Start immediately right of Celadon

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the left-trending slab to a ledge. Continue up a shallow corner to a roof, pull over and gain the top.

Carmilla

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Millarca and just left of the right edge of the 4th Tooth.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make a tricky step up from the right end of a sloping slab to gain the wall. From the ledge above, finish up the right edge of the tooth.