Rjukan Icefest - February 2010

Steep ice at Ktokan © Chris Vernon

Steep ice at Ktokan © Chris Vernon

Right from the start, as the Meet leader, I sensed this year's icefest meet was going to be good. And it was.

Initial reports about Ryanair's increasingly tighter and more expensive travel conditions were gloomy, but one of the intended team members came up with an option/variation for travel to Oslo - Norwegian Air to Oslo Gardermoen, the city's main airport and not too far out of our way to Rjukan. The main advantage over Ryanair was the cost, and very favourable weight allowances.

Ryanair and Norwegian Air (pretty well) matched each other for cheap flight ticket costs, but when it came to weight allowance, and to the cost each way of a sports bag, it was a totally different story. Much cheaper with the latter and 40kgs allowed rather than 20kgs with the former. With the need to take fairly heavy bags of winter gear and ropes, this proved a godsend to many of us.

Gardermoen receives flights from several UK airports, thirteen of the eventual team flying from Edinburgh or Heathrow, the rest sticking to Ryanair from various UK airports, mainly Stansted and Liverpool.

It was a huge difference when we arrived in Gardermoen though. A major airport, plenty of facilities open even at a late hour, easy beatable car hire desks, and civilised organisation. Soon, a happy 'Baker's Dozen' had loaded hire cars, switched Sat Navs on and were driving towards the city centre. 'Doris' re-calculated nicely when arriving at road works on the lengthy tunnel in the city, and virtually spot on the timing, three hours and seventeen minutes later, we pulled up at the Rjukan Gjestegård Hostel. Messages and envelopes left at reception gave room numbers, keys and directions and soon we were cosily ensconced in warm beds.

The Meet continued in the same manner as all previous meets, breakfast at or before 8.00 o'clock, followed by day-food selection and then packing gear and off in teams by around 9am. There was never any need to rush, the climbing is always strenuous so three or four (up to 25/30 metre rotes a day would prove ample fun, some of the longer routes in the gorge were usually enough as a 'one-route' day).

A marked difference to last year was the lack of crowds in the climbing areas. Usually one's location was enjoyed alongside maybe three or four other visiting climbers, the only difference being at Krokan and Ozzimosis, where here, due to the un-serious nature of the access (not necessarily the climb mind you) there were usually a larger number of visitors. However, these never impeded our fun.

Conditions this year were excellent, not too cold and with reasonably, but usually slightly dull weather, although there were some splendid sunshine days. Little falling snow and good tracks in the gorge along both sides of the river, to locate climbs, although some members did decide to get their feet wet occasionally.

A couple of the more adventurous teams ended up doing the hardest climbs on the meet, but generally, there was a 'fun' atmosphere in the warm and spacious lounge each night after the day's climbing, the wet gear, now ice had melted, drying out in the superb drying room in the basement, while some relaxed and others self-catered in the (slightly cramped but still usable) kitchen area.

There were so many routes climbed this year that it would be a lengthy list if needed. Suffice to say, together we more or less climbed most of the routes under Grade 6, including many of the superlative Grade 5s, in the 'Heavy Water' guidebook. A new and more modern guidebook is now overdue. Tony Scott, our webmaster, has use the photos I sent him, to adjoin this Meet report as a slide show?

My thanks (as Meet leader) go to the following:

The superb Rjukan Gjestegård -Torbjørn, Anne, Ina and Freddie, plus a couple more staff (their names unfortunately escape me). And a special thanks to Freddie for the organisation of the great Pizza meal and party with drinks we had in splendid surroundings, shortly before returning to the UK.

Climbers' Club (and guests) - Al Randall, Matt McVeigh, Geoff Lowe, Trevor Langhorne, Steve Jenkins, Bryn Roberts, Dave Hayward, Peter Nugent, Chris Vernon, Myles and Nicola Jordan, Rob Ayrton, Lee Leatherbarrow and Becky Moore, Paul Headland, Martin Ford, Jim Slater, Phil Tomaszewski, Terry Kenny, Marge Mortimer, and the two latecomers who we never really got to mix with, Cath Walton and Rick Wojtaszewski, they arrived just as we were due to come home. To all of the personnel involved, I thank you all for providing another great icefest Meet for the Climbers' Club, and I look forward to next February when we can again swing our axes and return to such comfort each day.

I realise after three Meets at Rjukan now, past attendees may want to visit other areas over west, Hemsedal, Laerdal, Eidfiord etc, but with, as yet scant knowledge of similar and as superb accommodation in these (arguably as good for ice climbs) locations, I will be happy to continue to promote the Rjukan Meet, hopefully gaining new members each year.

Smiler Cuthbertson
February 25th 2010

© 2010