Khumbu Oct/Nov 2011

Members seem to be keen on our more adventurous trips and so we want to offer everyone the chance to join a trip to the Himalaya. In collaboration with Ian Wall (CAT) a long time member of the club who is now based in Kathmandu we will provide the basics of getting you to base camp and then the rest is up to you. There are plenty of opportunities to climb a 6000m mountain, complete multi-day mixed routes, single days climbing, ascend a trekking peak or to complete an adventurous trek over a high Himalayan Pass, the famous Cho La.

The area we think would be ideal is in the Khumbu Himal, (the Everest region), running just north of Namche Bazaar, a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the 6186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. This is our suggested target for our trip. There will be a limit to places but please feel free to bring partners along to trek, or simply to just enjoy Nepal.

Kyajo Ri © Ian Wall

Here's why we like it: A wonderful mountain, with a sharp defined summit, and it is the highest peak in the local area. It does not present unreasonable hazards. Climbing is technical without being extreme. It is free of fixed ropes/anchors and thus retains its natural wild condition. It is almost 6200 meters but takes less time for acclimatization than higher peaks in the Himalayas. The route takes you to the magnificent pointed summit. It is situated in the middle of the Khumbu, it is surrounded by impressive summits and has fantastic views, including lots of 8000ers, including Everest. Unspoilt, at least not yet! The route faces south, towards the sun and warmth. The base camp is located in a wonderful and isolated valley. As the peak is classified for "Trekking" it enables a less expensive and complicated expedition. Acclimatization days will be required by everyone going into this region and these will be built into the walk in – looking at the picture on the left -the buttress to the north of the main face would also provide some acclimatization sport. The face in the shade above the central snowfield would be a good playground ..but cold as sun rarely gets into it ..but at least it doesn’t fall on your head. Also some good and easier day cragging (but a long day) on the shaded buttress in the foreground on the left of the image.

There are other possibilities in the area so if you are interested let us know asap so we can start to arrange the logistics.

Possible plans with various group options - All fly Lukla then walk up to Namche Bazaar, where we would need an acclimatation day, the central village of the region and home to many Sherpa people before continuing onto the Gokyo Valley

• Those who want to go into Machhermo (Kyajo Ri) would then head off up the Machhermo Valley for around a couple of hours to pitch Base Camp – a technical peak in the mountaineering sense, good all round ability required, new route options possible.

• Then some could go onto Phari Lapche another 4 hours up the main valley to Gokyo from which their BC would only be another couple/three hours – another technical area but although the summit could be reached this face provides a variety of technical mixed routes with options for first ascents – technical modern techniques required.

• Others could go over Cho La and up to Everest BC and trek out – no climbing, a trekking only route – visiting the famous valley and Tengbouche Monastery

• Finally people could cross the Cho La then complete an ascent of Lobuche Peak – a trekking peak with no really technical sections just competent basic winter skills required.

The teams would need to operate independently for obvious reasons but could bumble along the trail together. Climbing groups maybe max 5 (or units between 1-5 climbers) members, Lobuche Peak in units of 4 (or units between 1-4 people). This is how the Nepalese structure their Peak Fees. The community of Machhermo and Gokyo both have half a dozen lodges where you can get good food, steak, pizzas etc and also beer! (although not recommended at altitude!)

What will be covered and what needs to be considered?

• Domestic flight Ktm to Lukla return

• Park permit per head

• Climbing permit peak fee split across the group

• Community Action Trekking (CAT) porters to carry in and out and could provide kitchen services (if required) during the whole expedition and across all groups

• CAT tents and catering/mess tents

• You could provide your own food for your route, although this could all be done in Kathmandu .. certainly don’t recommend taking it all from the UK .. a lot of dried food can be purchased in Kathmandu together with base camp rations.

• We can offer prices for lodge accommodation on the walk in/out en route or you might want to camp both ways?

• The hotels in Kathmandu would be clean tidy and close to the centre of things so any shopping needs could easy be accomplished from whichever hotel you require.

• Would suggest we look at 3 weeks min – a couple of nights in Katmandu to get sorted and then a couple at the end just to allow for an missed domestic flight.:

• You would need your own expedition insurance.

• Bring all personal climbing gear .. but remember there is a luggage allowance on all domestic flights of 15kg per head .. if we send equipment up earlier we can go cargo ..but that would have to be before you arrive.. boots, crampons, ropes, etc

If interested please contact Fiona Sanders: