New Routes – Tremadog

Craig y Gesail

28-Jul-2012, Mike Lewis, Al Leary

Dido’s Dilemma

45m  E2 5c  1*
Start as for Ace High.

Takes the slab and steep headwall left of Ace High.
Climb the left edge of the slab to the leaning headwall. Pull up this strenuously, stepping right to a good resting ledge. Continue up easier rock until forced left into a corner at the base of a large clean slab. Traverse left for 2 metres and climb the centre of the slab via a thin crack and shallow groove. Belay on a large vegetated ledge and finish up the top pitch of Caravansoreye.

Craig y Gesail > Apprentice Buttress

Tyro

20m VD
06-Mar-2014, C Heath, K Davies
Start at the left hand of apprentice buttress, just right of a white pillar

Climb the wall & crack in the arete moving left below some dubious looking blocks,step back right to finish through a small niche.

Craig y Gesail p 60

Monument Ridge

16m S
16-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres left of Cadw below a stepped ridge.

Swarm up the flake crack and continue up the ridge on the right to the top.

Craig y Gesail p 60

Keep

15m HS
16-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 16 metres down and right of Cadw at a grassy corner adjacent to an floor-level ironstone slab.

4b Hand traverse rightwards along the wide crack and gain the rib. Follow this past a flake and wide crack to reach a ledge. Traverse left for 2 metres and finish up the slabby-looking corner. An interesting route, with a contrived but superb finish.

Craig y Gesail > Midas Buttress p 77

Ansawdd

11m VS
16-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just above the finish of Overcome is a fine pillar of rock with a white mossy streak down its right-hand side. Start in the centre of the pillar.

4c Climb the pillar, trending slightly leftwards to gain flakes and a good foothold below the thin cracks in the headwall. A stiff pull up gains the top; excellent.

Additional info:
The name means “quality”.

Craig y Gesail > Midas Buttress p 77

Betio

10m VS
16-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Ansawdd and just left of a large ash tree.

4c Step off the flake and move up to the undercut. Step rightwards and follow the rib to a finish up the short groove on the left.

Additional info:
The name means “to gamble”.

Craig y Gesail > Midas Buttress p 77

Teilwng

10m HS
16-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 20 metres down and right of Betio is another fine, but smaller buttress; marked by stepped grooves on the right-hand side of its front face. Start at the foot of the front face 1 metre left of the stepped grooves.

4b Climb up, trending slightly leftwards to gain a tapering corner; follow this to the top.

Additional info:
The name means “worthy”.

Craig y Gesail > Midas Buttress p 77

Taclus

10m HS
16-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Teilwng.

4b Pull into the stepped grooves and follow these to a rounded boss on the right. Stand on the boss and step left to finish.

Additional info:
The name means “tidy”.

Craig y Castell > Main Cliff

Comment submitted by : Nigel Noyes

Mensor

Comment:
The description and topo slightly misleading.There appears to be two pinnacles- split by a crack. The right hand one seems to be the one that one steps off heading left then up through the break. Its obvious when you get up there but puzzling looking from below with the guide book – particularly as the topo shows the route heading round right of the overhang – that way looks very hard!Trying to figure things out by reading the adjoining route ‘Sorry Sally’ confuses further ! “Wide crack splitting a flake ” ? There was a corner crack about 1 metre right of Mensor but could not figure out where Sorry Sally went.As others have commented on UK climbing the ‘walk out’ from Mensor horrible. Best to abseil but the current tat looks dubious. Great route though!

Craig y Castell > Main Cliff

Tales of Suspense

35m E4 6a 1star
30-Nov-2013, Tim Neill, John Orr
Start from a good nut belay at the right end of the Tenser roof.

Step out onto the slab as for Tensor and move up to good cam slot near the right side of the big overlap. Take the obvious stepped groove past an old peg to reach a fine hanging slab. Climb its right edge to gain the pegs on Titanium Man. Back these up and pull out left wards and up by some great laybacking and undercutting on big flat sidepulls to a shallow scoop (poor RPs). One last scary pull out the top of this gains the juggy traverse of Tantulus. Finish up the fine slab and pillar just left of Titanium Man.

Additional info:
An old peg. Abseil inspected prior to lead. Possibly a very good pitch!

Craig y Castell > Main Cliff

Multi-Dimensional Array

E3 6a, 1 star.
30-Nov-2013, Tim Neill, John Orr
Start at a good nut belay at the right end of the Tenser roof.

Step out as for Tensor and traverse as for that route initially. Near the left end of the large overlap and approx. 1 metre right of the next groove of Tensor (good wires in the lip and small cams to the right) test your ape index and yawn over for the biggest jug at Trem. Match both knees on the lip and grovel onto the fine slab. Climb the left arête of the crystalled slab to gain the peg under the crux of roof of Tensor. Step right to under a vague groove in the next roof and reach some good flatties well over the lip. Span right for an obvious spiky jug and make a well heeled move over. Finish up the juggy pillar right of Tensor’s grassy groove. Both overlaps are very reach!!

Additional info:
Abseiled first and large loose flake removed above top roof before lead. Old peg on Tensor easy to back up.

Craig y Castell > Main Cliff

Spinor

54m, E4 5c,6b, 1star
04-Dec-2013, Tim Neill, Mark Walker, Steve Long
Start just right of Sisyphus and a nice ivy covered tree.

1. 27m 5c From a grey niche pull over the overlap on the left gaining an arête leading to the spike below Wasp’s chimney crack. Follow the old Wasp variation with its stimulating mantle.
2. 27m 6b From the right end of the ledge step out above Pellagra’s 1st pitch and follow the cracked slab to gain the left facing groove of Tensor. Follow this for a couple of metres to a jug then take a short steep flake on the left to a fine procrastination perch under the roof. Perfect gear in the roof protects a long move to big sharp crystals on the lip. These lead with a well timed slap to jugs. Finish directly up the fine rough wall to the top.

Additional info:
Cleaned on abseil prior to lead.

Craig y Gesail > Midas Buttress

Touchdown

25m HVS 5a
02-Nov-1969, Paul Stott, Alan Stockwell, Chas Ryder
Start location & description are pretty much as for route 40, ‘Touched in the Head’, though the line is more like that shown for route 41, ‘Touchstone’ on the page 77 photodiagram. I suspect there is little or no difference between routes 40 & 41 (both climbed & claimed in the 70s).

25m: Start in the middle of the wall right of Touch & Go at a tree very close to the rock. Climb steeply into a groove. Up this to the traverse of Right Touch. Continue up on small holds to a spike & finish slightly left to arrive at a large perched block at the top of the crag (abseil slings in situ at time of writing, though I’m not sure I’d like to use them).

Additional info:
We called it ‘Touchdown’, due to one of the party touching the ground on the rope stretch when falling off the lower moves while seconding. Grade seems to be about HVS 5a by today’s standards, though I’m sure we originally gave it a lower grade.

Craig Pant Ifan > Eifionydd Buttress

Fine and Mellow

27m, E1 5b, 1*
18-Feb-2013, Mike Lewis , Al Leary
Start between Tam Lin and Electric Edge on a narrow vegetated traversing line. Belay on a couple of good wires. Up a shallow groove stepping right onto the large pinnacle/block.

Climb up through the steepening to gain the fine upper slab at the foot of a vegetated crack. Step right to join Electric Edge which is followed for a few metres to the overhanging prow. Pull into the leftward slanting corner to finish. (Electric Edge goes up the corner right of the prow) Note. The photo diagram on page 113 of the CC guide showing the lines of Tam Lin and Electric Edge is inaccurate. Route number 39 is actually the line of the new route Fine and Mellow. Electric Edge is just right of this and the prow can clearly be seen in the photo. Tam Lin is the obvious unmarked arete on the left. Number 40 which is described as Electric Edge is in fact Eifionydd Wall

Craig Pant Ifan > Upper Tier

Poriomania

20m A boldish HVS 5ab?
06-May-2013, I A Jones, J Goodwin
Start an eliminate line starting up either Fallen Block Crack or Mistook, with some side runners.

Move up to the obvious rounded bulge just to the right of Fallen Block Crack. Put some gear in the crack on the right (Mistook) then step back left. Take the bulge from left to right to reach a thin shallow groove line, leading straight up to an ivy break, easing all the time as the holds get bigger.

Additional info:
Could have been climbed before, looked v ‘fresh’ rock though.

Craig Pant Ifan > Craig y Tarw p 105

Ivy Jive

13m HS
15-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 100 metres below and right of the main cliff, just past a low wall, is a small buttress. The left flank is ivy clad, but the right flank, comprising ribs and slabs above a large boulder is rather better (don’t get too excited!). Start at a steep arête just above and left of the large boulder.

4b Make a steep pull up through the undercut first part of the arête (trying to avoid the pointed block on the right). Continue up the ribs above to finish up a short steep wall.

Craig Pant Ifan > Craig y Tarw p 105

Warts and All

13m VD
15-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at a corner immediately right of Ivy Jive.

Climb the pocketed right wall of the corner and continue up the slabs and walls to the top.

Craig Pant Ifan

Two Face Traverse

40m HVS 5a ☆
17-Mar-2021, Alex Riley, Adam Haynes alt leads on sight
P1. 5a 20m Start at the Cardiac Arête ledge. Step down slightly and traverse on hood holds until the “step across” move on Plastic Nerve. Belay on the big spike below the roof immediately left of PN.

P2. 4c 20m Step immediately left onto the large ledge and from here step left again onto a small foothold. Good handholds are gained here and a few boldish moves lead you into Olympic Slab which is followed to the top.

Craig Pant Ifan

Upper Tier
Route Comment: Madog currently should be BOVETI
01-Jan-1970,

This route was originally climbed in June 1967 by myself Bob Jayes partnered by Vernon Dark and Tim Woodcock. We named the route BOVETI being the the first two letters of each of our names. We know that we did the first ascent as it required a lot of gardening to clear the twin cracks which were completely obscured by ivy. The route description for Madog is otherwise correct.

Craig Bwlch y Moch

Comments Submitted by : Iwan Arfon Jones

Frog Noise

F.A. IA Jones, L Scheltinga (AL) very probably climbed before

Park Life

variation 2a is 4b

Emotional Crisis

getting to the tree is the crux and serious if not pre-clipped!

Craig Bwlch-y-Moch > Vector Buttress

The Philtrum

22m, E6, 1
24-Mar-2011, Mike Goldthorp, Duncan Campbell
Start either belay from Grim Wall tree-belay and climb the Snake slab or belay as for The Snake stance before stepping left into the pod. From the ledge go direct up the steep corner past the large tooth and up & rightwards through the roof to a small triangular footledge, then climb the delicate overhanging groove above (old peg) to a sloping shelf and a final mantle for glory!

Single 22 meter pitch, tech 6b.

Additional info:
Old peg halfway up groove. Climbed in headpoint style placing gear on lead.

Christmas Curry Area
1. Heart of Napalm (E2 5b) 2. Hobo Chauffeur (E1 5b) 3. Micah Start
4. Christmas Curry (Pitch 2)

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Plum Buttress

Hobo Chauffeur

E1 30m
10-Mar-2014, Iwan Jones, Kate Wilkinson, Charlie Allington
Comment by Iwan Arfon Jones: I have recently found that the Micah Start starts 4/5 metres to the right. So Hobo Chauffeur and Heart of Napalm have fairly independent starts.
Start 4/5 m left of Micah Start.

Climb the slab to reach easy enough ground leading up to a perched block/flake. Climb this on its left-hand side to reach a slab below the upper wall. The arete provides the key, and the crux, climb it on its left with progressively fewer holds. Precarious slaps and crimps lead to the ledge.

Additional info:
A good means of dodging the bottleneck that is Christmas Curry pitch 2. Beware of hanging oak branch.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Plum Buttress

Heart of Napalm

E2 5b 30m
10-Mar-2014, Iwan Jones, Kate Wilkinson, Charlie Allington
Comment by Iwan Arfon Jones: I have recently found that the Micah Start starts 4/5 metres to the right. So Hobo Chauffeur and Heart of Napalm have fairly independent starts.

Comment by Mike Lewis: The small inset picture on page 169 of the Tremadog guide showing the Micah start is wrong. The text description is accurate and it actually takes the initial slab taken by the new routes Hobo Chaffeur and Heart of Napalm.

Comment by Iwan Arfon Jones: There is more than one start to the Micah start – errrr – yep …….. a variation on a variation. So, the diagram is correct I’m afraid. The diagram is the one I drew for the last guide, it is the description is slightly wrong – the Micah Start variation should have two starts. Unfortunately, I didn’t have access to the whole text for the last Tremadog guide (only the bits that the powers that be wanted me to look at) so could not comment on this. I did try to belatedly put easier variant corrections in e.g. making sure Boo Boo and other old routes and obscure routes/variants were sorted and long lost climbs e.g. Eastern Slabs, Park Life, New Management & others were in.

I vaguely remember starting on one version of the Micah start as a young lad over 40 yrs ago – immediately overlooking the chimney and a week or so later, doing another start further left that was a fair bit harder. I have also asked a couple of old timers ….. well even older than me ……. and they say the same. In fact, they only remember the left-hand start appearing over the years as people abseiled off the tree above.

Start 4/5m left of Micah Start.

Climb the easy angled slab to reach good little ledges leading up to the left-hand side of the upper walls. Where it gets steeper, a precarious high step up leads to a blank looking area. Lay-away and pull up to reach slopers on the left edge of the wall and to head right towards the tree for the finishing holds. May become easier as it cleans up.

Additional info:
Good moves on good rough rock on both routes.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Borneo Buttress

Quercus

45m, Hard Severe 4b
25-Mar-2012, Mike Lewis, Judy Yates
Start: as for Cynhyrchwyr.

A pleasant low grade slabby route on excellent rock. At the start of the thin cracks of Cynhyrchwyr climb diagonally up leftwards to a slab which is taken direct to reach a short corner. Up the corner and move up to an overlap which is taken on the left on big holds. Continue up a delicate slab ( slightly run out ) and at the steepening step right and some welcome protection. Move up to a steep wall ( Tree radical comes up from the right at this point) and traverse rightward to finish up the easy wide crack of Rio. Note. The lower section up to the corner was originally part of Omo . The rest of the route has disappeared under dense vegetation.

Craig Bwlch Y Moch > Grasper Buttress (Left)

Valeries Rib Super Direct

70m VS 1 star
29-Jul-2013, Nick Winder, Sophie Cave
Start same as Valeries Rib.

1. 4b 6m Same as Valeries Rib.
2. 4c Step right and climb the slight bulge directly above the belay towards the small triangular overhang. Leave the overhang to ypur right and go straight to the belay of Valeries Rib. A bold lead at the grade.
3. Climb to the top on easier rock with the descent gully to your left.

Additional info:
I am sure that this has been climbed before many times but it is good line and worth including in a guidebook.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Oakover Buttress

Chimney Sweep

15m D *
17-May-2014, Mike Raine, Molly Tong (age 12)
Start up the Belshazzar Gully, above the ladder where it opens out a bit. Between Axminster and Fohn there is a chimney, start below this.

Climb the chimney, then the corner crack above to trees.

Additional info:
This may have been done before (in fact I’ve done it before!) but it appears not to be recorded and gives a pleasant and useful pitch at the grade.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Plum Buttress

Heart of Napalm (Pitch 2)

30m E2 5b
01-May-2015, I A Jones, K Wilkinson
Start next to the tree reached after the 1st pitch(i.e. the tree at the end of Christmas Curry pitch-2)

From the belay tree head up left to take a vertical crack leading to a tree, move right up the slab to pass the tree on its right; move back left immediately below blocky ground to cracks leading up on the left to reach another tree. Pass this tree on its left and step left to climb the slabby wall that leads up to the traverse left on the final pitch of Christmas Curry. Arrange gear on the large flake on the left then move right to climb the centre of the slabby wall (left of the arête of Finish of Moments) straight up past the friable pocket.

Additional info:
This second pitch may seem eliminate in style, it only reaches Christmas Curry at one point; it does provide some good moves and situations though. I’ve no doubt that someone will say it has been done before; however, it does not have any markings. Although there are a couple of trees, you don’t have to heave on them, there are some good moves past these trees. Top section is a bit friable and a bit bold.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Merlin Buttress

Little Pink Pill

45m E1 5a 1 star
07-Sep-2015, Neil Colquhoun, Mike Raine, Jon Gupta
Start 1st Pitch Y Broga

1. 15m Climb first pitch Y Broga
2. 15m Climb initial crack of Y Broga then step left across the bold slab to gain the rib and 2nd belay of Y Broga.
3. 15m Step left across the slab to gain the bold arête above to the top.

Botton Feeder

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Plum Buttress

Bottom Feeder

25m Hvs 4b
03-Oct-2015, IA Jones, K Rowe
Start 1 on topo. Start just right of Christmas Curry at an arête.

2 on the topo. A bit mossy at present, but not as bad as photo might suggest. Useful as an alternative way to get to the Plum, avoiding the queues on Christmas curry. Step up and move right onto the front face of the square-cut buttress go up and then left to an overhang. Pull out up left past the overhang to gain the easy blocky rib above. Keep on up the rib to the trees below base of the Plum finger crack start. Apart from at the very start, protection is fairly imaginary at the moment; hopefully some gear might appear in future.

Additional info:
Starting at 2a brings the grade up to around 5a/b and no gear at the start.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Oakover Buttress

Willow Wind

21m HS
10-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Fohn.

4b The highlight is the fine traverse near the top. Climb the sharp edge of the large flake, then follow the corner crack on the right for 4 metres until a thin horizontal crack leads out rightwards. Finger traverse the horizontal crack and gain the top of the buttress; scramble up to finish.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Shadrach Buttress

Momentum

40m E2 6a ☆☆
14-Jul-2019, Edgar Laver & Bede West
A line where momentum may be of assistance in the lower half, and a suitable new addition to the face after the loss of the multiple large blocks forming the good and popular Shadrach. Start beneath the obvious large rock scarred corner groove, taking a belay just to the left of the base of the groove is recommended. Possible in one pitch with careful ropework. 1. 25m 6a. Gain the corner groove and climb this via bridging until it steepens. Step right onto a small ledge before committing to the overhang via an undercut where momentum can be used to gain the large jug above. From here step left and continue leftward via a hand traverse for 2m, then continue up to belay on the muddy ledge above the oak bush. 2. 15m 5b. Climb onto the block above the belay, cam placement out left. From the top of the block step right to gain the crack and commit to a tricky mantel. Continue up the crack through the short corner to finished straight up via flakes. Ed Laver leading P1 & Bede West leading P2 14/07/2019 The route is currently still quite dirty post rock fall as there is dusty soil on many of the larger ledges, once this is cleared we believe route will be worth two stars.

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Craig Bwlch y Moch > Plum Buttress

Route Comment: Possible new route / combo?

20m E2 5c
20-Jul-2020,
Reporting / Checking out claim for new route. Can provide (email) marked crag photo to explain exact line / variants etc. Tentative name ‘Cracker’ E2 5c. 1) 5b 20m Climbs left arête of face left of 28a (the Micah Start of Christmas Curry. Move across ledge to the Grotto flake belay. 2) 5c 27m Start up Vindaloo, then where this heads up and left continue direct up the front of the facet. Move up left to belay off the spikes on Christmas Curry / Grotto Direct. 3)5b 15m Go up and place a bomber high runner in Christmas Curry. Descend back all the way to the base of the arête on the right ‘Finish of Moments’ and climb this direct to the top. E3 without the high runner. Caradoc ‘Crag’ Jones and Morgan Jones, 20-07-2020 We realize this shares some previously climbed ground but its combination provides a really good route especially with the new first pitch (if that has not been climbed before?) Note that first pitch uses a broken branch for a runner that won’t be there for ever!

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Shadrach Buttress

Abednego’s Alternative

45m E1 5b ☆☆
21-May-2023, Alex Riley, Tom Snowdon
Start up the “Momentum” groove (formerly the Shadrach chimney), place runners in the crack, then step down slightly into large crozzly foothold pockets to gain the arête. Place small gear and make tricky moves around and up the arête to reach a jug. From here climb the slab, then re-join Momentum to the top of the Shadrach wall.

Craig Bwlch y Moch > Merlin Buttress

Merlin Direct Direct

20m E2 6a ☆☆
24-Nov-2023, Tim Neill, Steve Long
Climbs the new groove revealed by the autumn ‘23 rockfall that affected the main pitch of the original Merlin Direct. Well protected and technical climbing up the back of the groove and over the small triangular roof to join the original line to finish. Cleaned on abseil.

Moel y Gest

Comments Submitted by : Iwan Arfon Jones

Sailor Bob’s Furry Spru Stool

F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Look back in Anchor

F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Cantre’r Gwaelod

F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Antur Madog

F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

O Captain, My Captain

F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Shiver me Timbers

F.A. IA Jones, C Jordan Originally climbed on-sight at E2 5c

Avast Behind

F.A. C Jordan

Fflat Huw Puw

F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Cat o’Nine Tails

F.A. IA Jones, R Wightman

Moel y Gest > Ivy Wall

Spring Fever

15m S
02-Mar-2013, J Martin, C Dale
Start to the left to the wall between the masts is a small slabby buttress whos right half is covered in ivy, hence ivy wall. Start 2 mtrs left of the vegetation above an imbedded block.

Step onto the wall rightwards and climb to and up a blocky little rib stepping left at the top and up to a ledge, climb the upper slabby wall on its right between two thin cracks.

Additional info:
On sight

Moel y Gest > Ivy Wall

I Need a Number 1 At Least it’s Not a Number 2

15m E1 5a
02-Mar-2013, C Dale, J Martin
Start 1 mtr left of spring fever.

Climb to a ledge at the base of the slab witch is climbed using the diagonal crack but avoiding the left corner to another ledge. Climb easily up the next slab to a third ledge.climb the centre of the final wall to the top.

Additional info:
On sight

Moel y Gest > Bulkhead Buttress

Black Ball Line

35m, VS 4c, 1*
08-Apr-2013, Mike Lewis, D.C. Williams, Judy Yates.
Start Below the large boulder lower down and right of Oh Captain, My Captain. (see Photo diagram page 238 CC Tremadog guide).

Climb onto the boulder and take the right edge of the buttress stepping right into a wide crack which is climbed to a large ledge on the left.Up the centre of the slab moving right onto sloping footholds below the vertical crack. Pull up through the steepening via the crack onto a sloping slab. The continuation arete is easier than it looks (4b) but lacks protection. Finish up the obvious crack. Good nut belay at back of the small bay.

Moel y Gest > Bulkhead Buttress

Fore-And-Aft

30m, VS 4c, 1*
19-May-2013, Mike Lewis, Clive Heath, Kev Davies.
Start : As for Das Boot up to the steepening.

Step left and ascend the crack line exiting right onto the arete at the apparently well embedded flake. Move up to a small ledge and take the left edge of the slab to reach a small jutting overhang. Step right and climb the short wall to easy ground. In-situ thread belay at a large block. (normally used as an abseil point). Note. In common with most of the other routes in this section the rock quality is exceptional.

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Windjammer

10m VS 4b
08-Jun-2014, Kev Davies, Clive Heath
Start just right of Bristol Fasion, on a block.

Pitch descriptions:
Step off the block & climb the rib to the overhang, take this & easy slab above to a good belay.

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Cut Above

6m S
13-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of The Bosun’s Knife.

4b Climb the stepped groove and finger crack above.Additional info:
Incidentally, short climbers enjoying The Bosun’s Knife (Diff); may be horrified by a 5a move at the top!

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Twndis

11m VS
13-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 30 metres down and right of Summit Wall, and 5 metres above a fence corner; is a buttress with a chimney in its centre and a flake crack above. Start at the foot of the chimney.

4c Climb the right rib of the chimney for 2 metres, until the chimney can be entered boldy. Climb the chimney and flake crack above.

Additional info:
The name means “funnel”!

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Gwendid

10m VS
13-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of the chimney of Twndis.

4b Climb a steep crack awkwardly to reach the base of a large perched flake. Finish up the loose grooves on the left.

Additional info:
The name means “weakness”!

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Gwyll

11m VS
13-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Twndis.

4c Move up, then rightwards to gain better holds in a groove. Finish up the right side of the headwall.

Additional info:
The name means “darkness”!

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Powder

8m S
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres above Twndis is a buttress with a central rib containing three slanting bulges; start here.

Climb the central rib directly through the bulges. The wall just right is well marked and gives Keg (S).

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Rover’s Return

7m S
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 18 metres right of Powder is a wall containing a flanged crack; start below this feature.

Climb the excellent flanged crack. The fine left arête of the wall is well scratched and gives Good Hope (HS 4b).

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Bwci

6m HS
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just right of Rover’s Return.

4c Climb the steep wall via a series of mantleshelves.

Additional info:
The name means “ghost”!

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Spinnaker

10m VS
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Bwci are twin cracks with an attractive, smooth slabby wall on their left. Start below and left of the smooth slabby wall.

4b Gain a bollard, step right and follow the left side of the smooth slabby wall.

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Spinach

8m VD
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Spinnaker, below the twin cracks.

Climb the twin cracks. The squeezed, thin wall just right is Olive Oyl (HS 4b).

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Bluto

7m S
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Spinach.

Climb the thin crack. The wall just right via a niche gives Gwasgfa (HS 4b).

Additional info:
The name means “squeeze”!

Moel y Gest > Bulkhead Buttress

Batten Down

14m S
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Bulkhead Route.

Climb the fine wall directly and finish up its left edge.

Moel y Gest > Bulkhead Buttress

Y Diwedd

11m S
15-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Bulkhead Route behind the man-sized detached flakes.

Climb the dark-stained wall to a niche. Pull over a slight bulge and scramble up rightwards for a few metres to reach the descent trough; good climbing!

Additional info:
The name means “the end”!

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Nigel’s Plan

21m S
13-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)– but with a trailing rope for the abseil!
Start as for Sailor Bob’s Furry Spru Stool.

5a Scratch up the right edge of the slab (optional), then follow the crack above, which usually holds the protection for Sailor Bob’s…., to finish up the arête and so gain the abseil point.

Additional info:
This is the line spotted by Nigel Barry during the CC Aspirants’ Meet (June 2011)!

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Burnt Island

22m HS
13-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres below and right of Sailor Bob’s…. below a narrow inset slab.

4b Climb the slab, keeping left of the vegetated alcove, to a heathery pull-out. Continue up to the abseil point.

Moel y Gest > Mainmast Buttress

Y Llong

23m VS
13-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Burnt Island, below a beautiful red slab.

4c Climb the scrappy corner on the right of the slab for 4 metres; before traversing leftwards to gain a standing position on a cup hold. Continue up the delightful slab, keeping left of the rib; until a reach gains a hold in the middle of nowhere. Scratch upwards to easier ground and the abseil point above and left.

Additional info:
Desperately needs a direct start (5c?)! The name means “The Ship”, the Camra pub of the year 2011 in Porthmadog!

Moel y Gest > Bulkhead Buttress

Dredged Up

16m S
13-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start sixty metres right of Bulkhead Buttress, a battered stone wall runs up the hillside to end at a slabby wall whose right side is cloaked in ivy. Start 2 metres left of the ivy.

Follow a series of cracks and shallow grooves up the right-hand side of the clean wall for 8 metres; before stepping left to gain a ledge. Climb the steeper wall just right of the thin crack, and finish up the final wall via a crack and smooth groove on its right side, Pleasant climbing despite the ledges!

Moel Ddu > Craig y Llys

Roof Felt

23m HS 4a one star
24-Jun-2015, Colin Knowles (solo)
Start the prominent roof has three facets. The dominant right hand facet has a heather groove running to its lefthand end. Start at a grassy platform under the left hand facet, 2m left of a tree.

Climb slabs directly to the overlap, cross it and continue on a line to reach top end of the heather groove. When under the roof traverse left across the central facet to exit onto slabs. Belay a few metres up on the left.

Moel Ddu > Craig Glaslyn (p 256)

Dwyrain

45m VD
19-Feb-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Gorwedd Nol a Meddwl.

A pleasant right to left traverse across the slabs. Climb rightwards along a shelf for 4 metres, and pull up onto the slab. Using the edge of the wide crack above, follow the slab up and leftwards to its apex above Simddau Fawr. Step left and follow the slab up and slightly leftwards to finish.

Moel Ddu > Clogwyn y Celyn

South Park

20m VD
20-Feb-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of the foot of Corner Ridge at a squat pinnacle.

Step off the pinnacle and continue up the loose, but straightforward slab to a ledge. Climb the slightly better flaky rib above to gain a large block belay on Corner Ridge. The Ridge gives the descent!

Additional info:
Despite the guide writers’ exhortations to explore (p 257); this is a poor area, when compared with the lower buttresses! The rock also takes a turn for the worse; becoming slatey with exfoliating flakes. As a bonus, every nook and cranny is choked with beligerent heather- good luck!

Moel Ddu > Craig y Llys (p 256)

Cynnar

15m VD
06-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of the rowan tree on Perthi Gwyn and just above the base of the grassy section of the descent gully.

Step right and follow the left-slanting cracks in the left wall of the rib. Where they fade, move right and climb the rib, to finish at the top of Perthi Gwyn.

Additional info:
The name means “early”!

Moel Ddu > Craig y Llys (p 256)

Llwyn Onn

26m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Perthi Gwyn.

Follow Perthi Gwyn to the rowan tree, then climb the shallow groove and its continuation above and slightly right, to finish up a slab.

Additional info:
The name means “ash grove”!

Moel Ddu > Craig y Llys (p 256)

To Dwyfor

25m VS
06-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the rowan tree on Perthi Gwyn.

4b Step right awkwardly onto the rib and follow this to heather. A few scrappy metres leads to the next rib on the right and a position below and left of the slabby headwall. Continue up to reach the horizontal crack; and follow this rightwards across the headwall, in a fine position, to the top.

Additional info:
Gelli’r Haul is a great little route, but serious– so maybe an upgrade to VS 4b? It’s a kind of Crackstone Rib of the Glaslyn area!

Clogwyn Coch

White Bird

15m VS 1 star
09-Jul-2017, Simon Needham, Denise Forster
Start right of ‘Pickled Perch’, at the lowest point of the central of the three Clogwyn Coch buttresses.

4c – Follow a crack to a small vegetated ledge. Ascend the steep wall (more protection than is apparent) trending very slightly right, to a good flake. Continue directly to a glacis and the top.

Additional info:
On sight. The small vegetated ledge could do with some gardening as it’s a bit prickly!

Clogwyn Coch p 278

Right Wing

14m HS
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Right Groove at a steep alcove.

4b Pull through the alcove to gain a groove. Move up and step left on to a broad slabby rib and follow this to the top.

Clogwyn Coch p 274

Granf

16m VS
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres up and right of Toasted Trout is a V-groove with a slabby right wall. Start 2 metres left of this V-groove at a right-trending flake crack.

5a Climb the flake crack with much assistance from the wall immediately right, to gain an easier-angled groove. Move up and right to climb the left side of the rib above to easier ground and the top.

Additional info:
Toasted Trout is 23 metres up the gully from Burned Carp not 50m! What an amazing little crag this is, a kind of micro East Buttress of Scafell! The descent is problematic- to the right is a bog and to the left steep heathery down-climbing. For the confident, reversing Gramps (the next route) is favourite!

Clogwyn Coch p 274

Gramps

22m VD
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the V-groove 2 metres right of Granf.

Start up the V-groove, then foot traverse the shelf on the left into Granf. Move up and stroll across the broad slab to the left. Finish up a short slab on the left.

Clogwyn Coch p 274

Ticklefish

15m VS
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Gramps.

4b Follow the V-groove to the overhang, then move up left to a ledge. Pull over the bulge above to reach easier ground.

Clogwyn Coch p 274

Plaice Face

14m S
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Ticklefish.

Start up the V-groove, then follow the slabby wall on the right and step around to a slab. Climb the steep wall above on the right and follow a vague rib to the top.

Clogwyn Coch p 274

Asgell

17m D
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start the opposite wall of the gully comprises a broken slab. However, the slab is cleaner and better at both its right-hand and left-hand ends. Start at the foot of the cleaner strip of rock at its right-hand end.

Follow the cleaner strip up the slab, keeping to the left near the top.

Clogwyn Coch p 274

Truchswm

15m S
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres left of Asgell below an attractive, grey rib; almost opposite the V-groove of Gramps.

Follow the rib up the slab, with a tricky move at the horizontal break.

Additional info:
The name is a play on “tricksome”! Incidentally Asgell means “aisle”!

Clogwyn Coch p 274

Brychni

13m VD
20-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Truchswm.

Follow the scooped slab, finishing up a little wall. The left-trending line just left gives the brittle Snapper BJ Clarke (solo)(20.10.10)

Additional info:
Brychni means “freckles”!

Clogwyn Coch > Castell Clogwyn Coch p 279

Off Yer

8m HS
10-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Office Rocker.

4a Climb the short crack and continue up the slabby wall to finish up the ridge. The chimney-crack just left, followed by the ridge above gives a short tussle Squiz (S) BJ Clarke (solo) (10112010).

Additional info:
Office Rocker repeated; grade thought to be HS 4a, due to the bold start!

Clogwyn Coch > Castell Clogwyn Coch p 279

Organ Stops

17m VS
10-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres left of Office Rocker is a slabby buttress of rather crunchy rock, guarded by a large bulge. Start on the left side of the buttress at a higher level on a quartz slab.

4b Make a tricky step on to the wall and traverse right to the arete. Follow the easier slabs to the top.

Clogwyn Coch > Castell Clogwyn Coch p 279

Obtrusion

15m S
10-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of Organ Stops, where the bulge dwindles.

From a block, step across on to the lip of the bulge and follow the brown slab up and leftwards; before finishing up the paler slab on the right.

Yr Arddu > Y Graig Wen

Comment Submitted by : Nigel Noyes

Chairmans Folly

Comment:
There are several possible starts – I did one left of the slightly left of the topo line that allows one to start putting the 1st gear in under the slanting right leading diagonal. Just before the mid height bulge the gear runs out and the rock/placements dubious.To go directly up as the topo shows looked 4c/5a, intimidating without solid protection and other climbers chalk/marks had stopped a few metres back ! I continued right round the bulge ( instead of going directly up) on mossy/suspect rock and no gear to then step back on to the top of the bulge. Still no gear in sight and an unnerving move with a massive run out before easier ground. I guess if the rock had been sound it would have been less scary. My second didn’t fancy the direct approach even on a top rope. My estimate is this route should be more like HVS 4c/poss 5a – with a warning for loose rock and scarce protection on crux.

Yr Arddu > Y Graig Wen

Better Late

20m E3 5c
18-Jul-2015, T Jepson, P Littlejohn, H Clarke
Start below the right-leaning ramp 6m right of Teaching Organon.

Climb easily up the ramp to a large flake hold then swing right and follow the flared cracks / groove till the angle eases – sustained.

Additional info:
Climbed ground up.

Yr Arddu > Lliwedd Bychan p 294

Only

16m S
16-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of God Knows.

4a Climb a subsidiary buttress to gain the heathery break. Step right and follow the left side of the main slab on smaller holds than usual on this crag.

Yr Arddu > Lliwedd Bychan p 294

Riches to Rags

65m S
16-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Only.
Pitch descriptions:
It had to be done; a left-to-right girdle! Many variations are possible but the line described avoids most of the ledge systems. Belay at will! Follow Only to the heathery break. Step right and follow the ramps rightwards to gain the heather-filled gully. Continue right to gain Orthin just above the slight bulge. An ascent up and right enables a descent down into the groove system of Eastern Route to be made. Follow the diagonal crack system rightwards to a heather bay; move right and finish up the upper break of Croesor.

Yr Arddu > Lliwedd Bychan p 294

Slab and Rib

30m S
16-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Heather Gully and 1 metre left of Central Route.

4b Climb the smooth slab; then step left to follow the left rib of Right Gully Rim to the top.

Yr Arddu > Lliwedd Bychan p 294

Look, a Gap!

35m S
16-Nov-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Eastern Route.

4a Follow the wall slightly rightwards to reach a ledge. Gain a niche up and right; avoid the perched block above by moving right and following a groove to reach a ledge. Climb a thin crack in the white slab on the left and finish up another crack in the apex of the slabby wall.

Yr Arddu > Mur Bach p 291

Sebastian

14m VD
18-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres down and left of Punky’s Dilemma.

Follow the fine, curved, crevassed ledge leftwards and climb the flakes above to gain a steep crack. Swing left and climb the wall just left of the crack; to a finish up the short walls and cracks.

Yr Arddu > Mur Bach p 291

Johann

22m HS
18-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Potted Precipice.

Follow the shelves leftwards, keeping to their right-hand side, and pull up a short crack to gain the upper slab. Step left and follow the thin flake crack up the slab to a ledge. Step right and pull up a short wall to reach blocks and the top.

Yr Arddu > Mur Bach p 291

Magdalena

20m VS
18-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Potted Precipice.

4b Climb up to the right to gain the overhanging block, and climb this on its right side. Finish up the arête above and right.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Gaeaf

12m S
18-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start opposite Punky’s Dilemma, the left sidewall of the gully (looking down) comprises a series of attractive slabs guarde by blobby walls. Start at the extreme left end of this section below a glacis in a short corner.

Gain the glacis; step left and follow the slab above.

Additional info:
The name means “winter”!

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Grom

14m D
18-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres down and right of Gaeaf at a right-curving slabby ramp.

Climb right-curving slabby ramp.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Trysor

17m HS
18-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Grom.

4a Follow Grom for 5 metres; then climb the left-slanting groove on the left. Continue up the slab above, via the niche, to the top. Superb, bold climbing!

Additional info:
Trysor means “treasure”! also Grom means “curved”!

Yr Arddu > Mur Bach p 291

Emmanuel

15m VS
24-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres up and right of Punky’s Dilemma on a high rock ledge.

4b Step left off the ledge and follow the thin crack; before swinging left and gaining the ledge above. Move up left and follow the rather brittle left-trending crack to the top.

Yr Arddu > Mur Bach p 291

Friedrich

17m HS
24-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Emmanuel below a wide, left-slanting crack.

4b Swarm up the crack elegantly to a niche. Traverse 3 metres left and follow the crack line up the headwall; taking care with the loose flake near the top.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Gwanwyn

14m HS
24-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Gaeaf.

4a Follow the holds and vague crack leftwards up the steep wall and gain the slab. Finish up the cracks in the slab; good climbing!

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Hwnt

12m HS
24-Jan-2011, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres down and right of Grom, and just right of the moss.

4b Step off a boulder and climb the wall to a bulge guarding a short groove. Pull over the bulge and climb the groove to a finish up the broad rib.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Hirbell

13m VS
24-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Hwnt.

4c Make a move up, then stretch up rightwards to a good hold and gain a small sloping ledge. Step right and pull through the bulge and finish up the slabby groove on the left

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Llosgfnydd

16m S
24-Jan-2011, BJ clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres down and right of Hwnt at a blobby wall.

Climb the blobby wall and pull slightly rightwards through the small overlaps. Move up a short corner and finish up the slab.

Additional info:
Gwanwyn means “Spring”! Hwnt means “yonder”! Hirbell means “distant”! Llosgfnydd means “volcano”!

Yr Arddu > Mur Bach p 291

Cothen Corner

15m HS
31-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Sebastian.

4b Walk left along the curved ledge, then climb the curving corner above. Continue up a short wall and finish up the corner.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Bustachu

14m VS
31-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Hwnt.

4c Step off a boulder onto the short, impending wall and gain the sloping ledge above with difficulty. Climb the next bulge rightwards, move up, and finish rightwards up the slab.

Additional info:
The name means “to flounder”!

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Bwrlwm

16m S
31-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Llosgfnydd.

Move up the wall and climb rightwards through the small bulges; finishing up a tiny capped groove to reach easier ground, excellent!

Additional info:
The name means “bubble”!

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Hynafol

18m VS
31-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Bwrlwm.

4c Climb rightwards across the brown crinkly wall to reach the edge; before climbing the wall on the left to gain the heather terrace. Scramble rightwards (optional belays) to reach the shallow groove at the left-hand end of the headwall. Follow this shallow groove, mainly by its left wall, to a balding finish; delectable!

Additional info:
The name means “ancient”!

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr P 292

Mur Dur

30m HS
31-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Steelworker.

1 13m Climb directly up the blobby wall to the heathery bay. 2 17m Gain the slab above, via the short corner; and follow it up and leftwards to a finish up a short, steep wall.

Additional info:
The name means “steel wall”!

Yr Arddu > Mur Bach p 291

Brandenburg

16m VS
31-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres up and right of Sebastian and 3 metres left of Punky’s Dilemma; at a short groove.

4c Start the groove awkwardly to reach a ledge, continue up the crack on the left to beneath the headwall. Step up right to a ledge; then finger traverse leftwards to finish up a thin crack.

Yr Arddu > Carreg Bengam

Ben Gunn

16m S
12-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one hundred and twenty metres directly above the narrow opening in the stone wall on the approach to Carreg Bengam; is a line of walls divided by vegetated corners. At their right end, an attractive wall is framed between ivy on the left and a large holly tree on the right; start here.

Pull up to a ledge on the left at 2 metres. Step right, and use a good spike to gain and follow a series of right-trending grooves to a finish on the rib on the right.

Yr Arddu > Carreg Bengam

Hispaniola

11m HS
12-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start forty-five metres above and right of the finish of Ben Gunn is a fine, bulging, slightly-kinked rib. Start below a groove in the left flank of the rib.

4a Climb the groove to a small bulge. Step right and finish up the white streak in the edge of the rib.

Yr Arddu > Carreg Bengam

Yo Ho Ho

15m HS
12-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start from the start of Ben Gunn, a walk of 50 metres rightwards, first up, then downwards reaches a dome-shaped buttress. The main feature is an impressive central wall beetling with overhangs; and bordered to its right by a heather-filled groove. This wall wouldn’t look out of place on the nearby Carreg Bengam Bach! Start 2 metres right of the heather-filled groove.

4a Move up, then right to gain the obvious flat ledge on the rib. Continue awkwardly to below a bulge containing two dirty cracks. Pull leftwards around the bulge to finish up the wall.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr (p 292)

Arian

12m HVS
14-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Shani’s Climb.

4c Ascend the wall up and leftwards to reach the rib. Swing left and climb the steep left wall of the rib to gain Shani’s Climb.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr (p 292)

Lamb Chop

55m S
14-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres right of Obscurer at a block in a gap.

1. 30m Follow slabs and a short wall up rightwards to heather. Belay on a higher ledge at the foot of the main central wall and just below a small, blocky roof.
2. 25m Climb up just right of the roof, and continue up the wall slightly rightwards to gain the upper slabs. Amble up these to the top.

Yr Arddu > Bwtres Mawr (p 292)

Rwm Ba

40m VS
14-Jan-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Steelworker.

1. 24m Climb the right side of the blobby wall, then continue up the attractive red gangway on the right to gain the heather bay at the top of p3 of Joy Division.
2. 16m 4c Move left and climb up to the curving roof. Make a tricky traverse right below the roof and gain a ledge. Climb a rib on the left and slabs to the top.

Additional info:
The left-hand stile in the stone wall, below Mur Bach is now defunct!

Carreg Hylldrem > Craig Nant y Fedw

Here are details of some new routes on a newly developed crag which might be of interest. I’m only giving basic details as there is a topo guide available on the Tremadog wiki

Hylldrem Area > Craig Nant y Fedw

The Great Gapsy

15m E3 6a
10-Apr-2017, George Smith, Jurgen Dissmann
The obvious right to left diagonal crack system; start just left of ‘Reality’ and thrutch towards a shared finale with ‘Chute up’.

Carreg Hylldrem Area > Craig Nant y Fedw

Super Pod

10m E3 6a
10-Apr-2017, George Smith, Jurgen Dissmann
The route take the offwidth cracks on the main crag avoided by the earlier harder routes! From the start of ‘Chute up’ head up left into the unusual and problematic pod.

Carreg Hylldrem Area > Carreg Hylldrem

Big Hanged-Boss and Over!

20m E4 6a
12-May-2018, George Smith, Jurgen Dissmann
This route is on a small overhanging buttress approx 100m right of the main crag. Almost perma-dry From a rounded pedestal below the centre of the overhanging face swing up right and continue on big holds to a difficult escape leftwards to the obvious slabby break. Thread belay.

Nant Gwynant > Craig y Llyn

Bullvine

60ft, e2 5b
Jun-2010, Martin Crook, Richard Cuttler
Start 5 min walk behind the butress containing Powersnob

60ft, 5b, climb the central groove line left of Honary Limestone which overrhangs in its upper section to give excellent climbing on flat jugs.

Nant Gwynant > Craig y Llyn > Hidden Buttress

Special Ops

18m e3 5c
19/21-Apr-2011, Martin Crook, Glenn Robbins
Start from the Gwynant cafe layby a goat track leads up and left to access this buttress which is located in the woods behind and above the wooden chalets on the main road.

Special Ops climbs the obvious groove stepping R at the overlap before climbing the slimmer groove above past a tied off pr fa m crook g robbins 19 4 2011.swollen goods vs 4c 18m takes the same starting groove of Specisl Ops but goes left at the overlap and climbs the rib to its top – fa Glenn Robbins, M Crook 21 4 2011

Additional info:
Abbed and brushed prior to ascents,peg runner placed on abb.

Nant Gwynant > Craig y Llyn > Dragon Buttress

Innocent Barstander

15m E1 5b/c
May-2011, Martin Crook, Glenn Robbins
Start through the metal gate below Craig y Llyn then walk up rightwards above Power Snob for 5 mins until a kind of gully wall can be seen down and to the right.

50ft 5b/c. Climb the obvious cracks in the gully wall to quite a bold finish passed one peg runner.

Additional info:
Route cleaned on abseil and peg runner placed prior to the ascent.

Nant Gwynant > Craig y Llyn > Dragon Buttress

Task Force Black

24m HVS
May-2011, Martin Crook, Glen Robbins
Start as for innocent bar stander

1. 12m
2. 18m 4c 4c

This two pitch route climbs a prominent arête that is broken at a big ledge so that the main second pitch could be climbed in its own right though the first pitch is somewhat entertaining. The route is situated just right of Innocent Barstander.

Additional info:
Abseil cleaned. Top arête quite bold.

Nant Gwynant > Craig y Llyn

Correction Submitted by : Martin Crook

The Killing Fields

60m E5 6a
1985, Martin Crook

Current description is misleading as there are no pegs on this route nor were there ever any. However on the f.a.myself and John Sylvester swung leads taking a belay on rps just before the final arête of wailing wall which we then finished up. At that time we didn’t think our 45m ropes would get to the top in one run out.

Additional info:
Abseiled and cleaned prior to the f. a.original description can be located in Pete’s Eates new routes book archived at the café

Nant Gwynant > Craig y Llyn

Route Comment: The Killing Fields

01-Jan-1970,
A correction to Martin Crook’s correction: there definitely was at least one peg on The Killing Fields, because I removed it in 2022 (and still have it). It was completely hidden within a tuft of grass, and the flake that it was in had worked loose and came off with little persuasion. I thought I remembered identifying where a second peg had been a bit higher from a rust mark, but I’m not certain of this now. The route seemed extremely bold for the grade without pegs, and a bit unattractive for a *** offering. A bit of historical intrigue if the peg(s?) weren’t placed by the first ascentionists?

Nant Gwynant > Dinas Emyrs

Green River Rising

Length/grade/stars : 18 m E2 5c
Apr-2012 Martin Crook , Andy Newton
Start access from Nant Gwynant to Beddgelert road walk up to hidden dell in five mins directly below Dinas Emrys summit mound.

18 m E2 5c The groove above the hidden dell is climbed past one peg runner which is awkward to clip. A good route in wet conditions.

Nant Gwynant > Craig Penmaen Brith

Owl Leary

8m HS 4b
13-Apr-2017, J Richmond, Y Mahmood, P Brewer
Start above and left of the ‘Gwynant Needle’ area of the crag is an area of short slabby walls with some bouldering a few short natural trad lines. This route is on the highest slabby wall near the top of the minor top of Penmaen Brith – 150m from the top of the Needle. Clearly seen as the highest & cleanest wall whilst approaching from Llyn Gwynant.

Climb the obvious clean flake crack on the left side of the wall to a juggy finish and excellent nut belays. Enjoyable climbing which is over far too soon.

Additional info:
Quite possible this has been climbed as a micro-route or highball before as it’s a great natural feature but no obvious signs.

Nant Gwynant > Craig Penmaen Brith p 338

Thumbelina

6m S
19-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres above and left of the finish of Excalibur is a reasonably clean, fine, short brown-hued wall (clearly seen on p 337 of the new guidebook); which gives three nice micros. Start at the foot of the brown rib.

4c Climb the shallow groove on the left flank of the rib and continue up to the top. The right side of the rib is Tiny BJ Clarke (solo) (19.10.10)

Nant Gwynant > Craig Penmaen Brith p 338

Tumbelina

5m S
19-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just left of Thumbelina.

5a Lurch up to the ledge (dyno for the short)! Finish up the shallow groove above.

Nant Gwynant > Craig y LLyn (p 328)

Coppernob

8m VS
16-Jun-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of Power Snob on a higher ledge.

4b Move up, then follow the shelves rightwards to a thought-provoking finish up a short groove just left of the arête.

Nant Gwynant > Craig Ddu (p 330)

Stone Clad Slab

45m VD
08-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the bottom of the left-hand ridge of Craig Ddu the rocks compact to produce a distinctive red slab; about 80 metres behind the top of the Gladstone Slab. This is clearly seen on p330 of the new guide. Start below the red slab.

Climb rightwards, then leftwards up a slanting rib, before pulling up a steep little wall to gain the red slab itself. Follow the slab to a terrace and block belays above and right.

Nant Gwynant > Craig Ddu (p 330)

J Ridge

25m Mod
08-Mar-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres left of Stone Clad Slab below a right-curving ridge.

Climb rightwards up the left-hand side of the ridge, then the edge itself to the top.

Additional info:
Gladstone Slab is a superb straightforward climb in a great, sunny position. With two bolt belays halfway (it wasn’t me, honest!) and a stake belay at the top– a good day out for the tyros! It is only briefly (one sentence) mentioned in the new guide. Whilst nearby, the mossy choss heaps of Aberglaslyn Pass, Penmaen Brith and Craig Cwm Dyli are allotted 18 precious pages!

Nant Gwynant > Braich Llwyd (p 317)

By George

13m VD
23-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
On the West flank of Carnedd y Cribau facing Snowdon are a series of outcrops, called Braich Llwyd on the 1:25000 map (O S Ref 664 541). Park at the Snowdon viewpoint lay by, one and a half kilometres down the Nant Gwynant road (A 498) from the Pen-y-Gwryd. Cross the stile opposite and march uphill Eastwards to reach the rocks in 20 minutes. The majority of the routes are on the lowest rocks on the left; characterized by a cracked rib on the left and a wavy brown slab on the right. Start at the foot of the cracked rib.

Climb the rib and finish rightwards up the slabs above.

Nant Gwynant > Braich Llwyd (p 317)

Dragon Crack

11m S
23-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres right of By George at a higher level, below a crack in a slab guarded by a small roof.

4a Pull through the roof and climb the crack to a ledge, from where the scoop on the right leads to the top.

Nant Gwynant > Braich Llwyd (p 317)

Dragon’s Breath

14m VD
23-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metre right of Dragon Crack at the wavy brown slab.

Climb the rib, just left of the steep wall; before stepping right and following the wavy alab to the top.

Nant Gwynant > Braich Llwyd (p 317)

Scaly Back

12m VD
23-Apr-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just right of Dragon’s Breath a wide, shallow grassy gully runs upwards for 60 metres. At its top on its right side is a bald slab, start here.

Pad up the slab and finish rightwards.

Additional info:
St George’s Day of course!

Nant Gwynant > Craig yr Ehediad (p 352)

Just Skylarkin’

14m S
01-Jun-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start from the stile at Bwlch Rhediad follow the fence left (North) for 100 metres until it steepens. Cross the fence and contour rightwards below a broken crag for 270 metres to reach a series of granitoid walls. Start at the right-hand side of the walls at a boulder field below a less steep area of rock. (OS Ref 669 526).

Climb a grass ramp up right for 5 metres, then muscle up onto the wall. Continue direct past a steeper section near the top.

Nant Gwynant > Craig yr Ehediad (p 352)

The Lark Ascending

11m VS
01-Jun-2012, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres up and left of Just Skylarkin’ at a fine wall.

4c From the blocks, pull through the slight bulge and continue up to finish boldly via the small niche.