New Routes – Swanage

Pitch descriptions:
8m 5a Climb the slab to a ledge then ascend the gently overhanging, south-west facing crack to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the the centre of the wall to a ledge then pull over the centre of the steeper perched block to finish.

Additional info:
Clean on site trad accent.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverses Eastwards mostly below the main break on very good rock with good protection.
1. 40m HS 4a. Start as for The Ramp by climbing up left of a black nose, but cross the wall rightwards below The Ramp to a large flake system and climb right and up to meet the main break. Traverse the main break until you can drop down to stand on a jammed boulder in the corner of Jericho Grove.
2. 7m S 4a. Remove anything from the back of your harness and drop down behind the boulder (the rabbit’s hole) leaving protection for the second. The less slim will need to down-climb the outer West side of the boulder. Swing right and down to belay in a small corner below the widest part of the massive roof.
3. 40m HS 4a. Traverse right just above the main black flint bands. Belay after a slightly harder move at the base of a short layback and slab. 4. 21m VS 4b. Up the layback and the wall above (as for Black Sunshine).

Pitch descriptions:
1. 23m VS 4c Start just left of the big boulder. Climb the thin corner crack and head left around the small roof (as for Black Sunshine). Head 8m back right to climb the short layback and slab. Belay on the right on the main break just around arête at the top of the big corner.
2. 15m VS 4b Descend the corner for 2m to reach the finger crack heading downwards across the wall. Follow this on underclings to belay in a small corner.
3. 20m VS 4c Continue right around the arête, across the large corner (difficult) to cross the compact rock and climb up to the main break.
4. 15m HS 4a. (Bottomless Buttress) Launch up the jugs to the roof where it meets the arête and follow the corner to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 20m HS 4b. Start as for Bottomless Buttress. Climb the corner for 5m then traverse rightwards along the easy line until the arête is reached. Climb up to belay on the main break.
2. 8m HS 4b Traverse the main break right on jugs (spectacular, but easy) to belay in the next corner (The corner of The Fin).
3. 50m To belay HVS 4b. Continue along the traverse for 8m to join and finish up the last pitch of Rhino: i.e. climb up the wall to meet rightwards rising underlings. Follow these for about 10m to reach a clean looking corner, which is climbed to the top. All slightly worrying. Belay on bushes.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 20m HVS 4b Start as for Finale Groove. Climb the groove for 10m to a chock stone. Traverse right for 5m to meet the roof. Traverse under this stepping down 3m before the arête to belay on the arête.
2. 17m HVS 4c Climb the corner on the right for 2m and drop down right under the roof. Traverse right in a spectacular position for 10m and swing around the arête. Climb the easy corner to the main fault line.
3. 30m HVS 4b Traverse easily right along the fault for 10m to reach the next arête. Climb the finger crack above and finish up the solid left-facing corner above (as for The Heidelberg Creature). Exit on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 10m VS 4c Start as for The Heidelberg Creature, or better from The Cheshire Cat. Climb Heidelberg for 10m and belay to avoid rope drag.
2. 8m E1 5 Traverse right under the roof to reach a spike (on the Tool) at the far end.
3. 12m E2 5b Step down (leaving a sling on the spike to protect the second) and follow the rising underclings to reach an alcove and an easy traverse on to Tatra. Belay on the right at the large crack on the good foot ledge. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined if carrying 2 sets of 0.3 to 2.5 inch cams.
4. 6m VS 4b. As for Tatra. Up the crack; wrap a sling around the jug; hand traverse right on good footholds to step up at the arête.
5. 22m VS 5a. As for Tatra. Climb the large corner above. Large cams needed.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 20m. Optional and harder than the rest of the route. E3 5c. Start as for Marmolata Buttress pitch 1. Climb up just right of the arête then climb a thin crack to a ledge on the seaward face. Swing right around the arête and climb a groove to the main fault-line, step left to belay on the last stance of Tatra.
2. 15m HS 4a. Traverse right along the main fault-line to cross the big corner. Climb up and right across the slab to meet Director’s Groove. Belay.
3. 30m HVS 4c. Good rope work and plenty of 60cm and 120cm draws required. Descend the groove below the belay for 8m (leaving plenty of runners to protect the second) to meet the obvious hand-traverse line. Follow this to meet the groove of Lightning Wall. Step down 3m to a comfortable belay.
4. 20m E2 5b. Step right around the arete and cross the corner to climb back up to re-join the hand traverse line which is followed to a belay at a step-down and ledge (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
5. 17m E2 5b. Continue along the hand traverse to a spike belay on Acapulco (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
6. 10m E2 5b. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the fault-line and step right to belay (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
7. 22m E2 5b. White Dwarf: climb the flakes on the right, step right, and climb the wall above.

Pitch descriptions:
Powerful climbing on a natural line and a good alternative for those that have already climbed Buccaneer.
1. 22m HVS 5a. Start as for Flying finish and climb to the large roof. Traverse right past Billy Pig to turn the corner and belay.
2. 10 m VS 4b. Climb up the corner then traverse right just below the main fault in an airy situation until the diagonal crack of Sinbad is reached. Climb the crack to belay on the main fault line.
3. 10m HVS 5a. Follow the fault line right to drop across the corner (of Buccaneer). Ascend the corner to good belays on large cams below the capping roof.
4. 15m E1 5b. Ascend to the roof and its in-situ slings. Swing up and slightly left to follow the continuation crack to the top.

The starting ledge is not “non tidal except for spring tides”, it is waved washed most high tides (which given Swanage tides is 90% of the time). There are higher starting blocks under Jude the Obscure which makes this the recommended abseil line.

Pitch descriptions:
Described as low in the grade. The start is probably around 4a although well protected, it is low in the grade above the “large ledge”.

Additional info:
Based on the CC 2014 guide (proof copy)

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the initial cracks and traverse left to the fifth bolt. Move horizontally left and finish up the final crack of Bop Ceroc.

Pitch descriptions:
2 pitches. Belay in the corner niche, at the top of pitch 1 of ‘Tatra’. Various threads available. Treat the rock directly overhead with care. A superb pitch with great positions, good rock and good gear. Avoid the dodgy blocks above the belay by traversing out to the arete and climbing that, (gear before reaching the arête) until you can step back right into the superb corner. Follow this to the top. All solid and with good gear.

Additional info:
There is actually nothing left of the original Tatra Direct put up in 1966 by Tony Willmott and Alan Heppenstall. The top corner was reclimbed by Nigel Coe and Tim Dunsby in 1991 after rock fall at that time!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rib and bulge above. Move up and finish up the tower on the right on sloping holds. Pleasant climbing on unmarked rock!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb straight up the wall and the fine grey slabs above to finish up a short corner.

Additional info:
The whereabouts of Fallen Block Climb continues to confuse; a description is given here! Start 8 metres LEFT of the right edge of The Pulpit at a flake crack in easier-angled rock. CLimb the flake crack to its end and continue up the grey slabs on improving holds to a finish up the white, left-trending ramps. This description approximates to the Rockfax topo!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow A Simple Sermon for 6 metres to an obvious horizontal line of holds. Finger and hand traverse rightwards, go around the edge of the wall and belay at the crack of Pulpit Route. Continue up, or down Pulpit Route.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack and continue up a left-trending ramp; before pulling through a slight bulge to blocky ground. Up this to the top and stake belays. Nice climbing, up a strong line on good rock!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse right across shelving rock to gain Glove. Descend slightly and continue rightwards on sloping holds with poor protection, to below the square-cut chimney of P.U.M. Move right for 3 metres and pull up leftwards into a recess which leads to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the left-bounding rib of the chimney of Blow Hole Route. At the top bulge, step left and finish up a shallow groove just right of Mutation.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the short arête, stepping left at the top. An interesting, but somewhat hunched traverse starts 3 metres right of the short arête and follows the lower break leftwards. Once around the arête step off onto the flat boulder; Hunch (10m 4b Clarke solo 1.2.15).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the short corner and steep wall above to gain the amphitheatre. Move up leftwards to an optional stance below a crack in the sidewall of the amphitheatre. Climb the crack for 3 metres then follow the delightful ramp rightwards to its end. Place a good runner, then belay on the abseil bolts 2 metres right. A real surprise, the ramp looks like E1 from above!

Additional info:
Considerable rockfall on The Promenade – Read more …

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the flake crack to a break below a steeper band of grey, smooth rock. Step left and climb a shallow groove in the band, utilizing a small but vital flake/spike. Continue up easier ground and finish leftwards up the top wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb a short wall, then continue up the steeper edge above, until a pull out rightwards gains a crystal pocket in a smooth slab. Continue up for 3 metres to a break, then step down left into Preacher Groove. Place gear, then launch up into the shallow brown groove just left of the edge; continue up this to easier ground and the top. An eliminate, giving exciting climbing with spaced protection, based around the right edge of The Pulpit!

Additional info:
Preached Groove repeated: suggested upgrade to Severe; award 1 star!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Mantel the shelf on the right, move up and climb the crozzly rib to below the block roofs. Avoid these by moving up leftwards into the finishing corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Take a direct line up the wall, following an intermittant thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the corner as elegantly as possible to the break and finish up the wall on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the sinuous cracks to a large slippery slot. Traverse right, then surge up the steep wall above, keeping just right of the thin diagonal crack, to the top. Deduct a grade if you bridge into the corner!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the arête via a steep start, a delicate little slab and a final roof utilizing a rounded edge out right.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right arete of the wall and continue boldly and directly up the wall above to finish up the two-stage rib. Belay on blocks and a small stake just below the top!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Traverse the obvious break rightwards (calm seas required!) and make a stiff pull up into the cliff-top notch.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Boulder up the flake to the break and traverse right, with increasing trepidation,; before pulling around the prow, and so to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the shallow groove, a black crozzly wall and the twin cracks to a finish up the corner of Contention.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull up the steep wall by standing in the naughty footholds to a large ledge. Move right and stride across a gap to reach a horizontal crack perfect for the fingers. Follow the crack rightwards sbove the sea-splashed boulders for 2 metres and finish up a small groove. Disjointed, but a good finish!

Pitch descriptions:
Pull over a small roof and trend up and leftwards along a flaky ramp; before making steep pulls, in a sensational position, to gain the finishing groove.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow Under Caroline for 4 metres until below a prominent niche at the faultline. Climb the grey wall to the niche, swing rightwards over the niche and continue to a ledge. Step right for 1 metre and pull onto a block. Finish up the short wall above via the small groove on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the Corner and Traverse to a large ledge on the main faultline. Walk left for 6 metres to below the crackline of Nani. Make a bold swing out leftwards to gain a prow, and tiptoe left along the lip for 4 metres to reach a rib overlooking Cephalapod. Climb the rib for 2 metres, and step left to a ledge (optional belay!). Continue the traverse leftwards for 10 metres along the ledge to the far corner and follow this to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a tricky starting move up the rib (easier on the right, if the sea allows!); and continue to the large ledge. Finish up the left side of the arête above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rib dividing the corners using a shallow groove in the lower section and pockets in its upper section to a ledge just below the top. Finish by utilizing the short arete and block on the right as for Dingle Dell.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Windy Corner to the chimney. Squeeze up for 2 metres, then follow a line of pockets and jugs out leftwards, on marvellous rock, to the arete. Pull around and move up to the vast ledge and various options. Jumping off is not the best option!

Pitch descriptions:
5a Start the rib by a tricky move, trying not to barndoor off into the zawn below, but easier for the tall! Continue on large holds until a few harder moves gain the top. The undercut crack immediately right is Scoot (10m S 4c Clarke 21.6.15); once again easing rapidly after the start!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove and chimney line past a few awkward sections.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the square-cut groove and pull onto the large ledge on the right. Follow the dark wall on the left and finish up the slabby wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitches 1 to 3 follow Mr Ruckle. [R] indicates seasonal bird ban

1. 20m E1 5a. Slightly serious for both leader and second, so take all the protection possibilities going. Climb the arête (Varina) East of the abseil line for 6m, then traverse right, then slightly down to a belay at a cracked prow.
2. 30m HVS 5a. Climb down and across to a thread, past a sling placement on a knob, continue via a slight scoop to belay right of a cracked pillar.
3. 27m VS 4c. Follow the obvious horizontal weakness past several old threads to belay in the corner.
4. 30m HVS 4c. Climb the corner for about 5m then head right under a small blocky roof to the slab above the Lean Machine wall. Cross the slab (easy but with poor protection and snappy rock) to belay at the large corner (Apex Corner).
5. 20m HVS 5a. Descend the corner (leaving protection for the second) until a few metres below the main fault. Head right across the slab and turn the arete (good cam in a pocket just before the arete and a wire at your feet on the arete.) Continue on another slab to belay on the left side of a pillar. Large hex and other anchors.
6. 15m HVS 5a. Make a tough move around the pillar and continue across the slabs to the large corner (of High Noon).
7. 20m HVS 5a. Descend the corner (peg on right wall to back rope the second) and cross the wall on the right on small but good hand holds to a final steep move to clip an in-situ thread that lies above a steep corner. Descend the corner (I’ve got the Spirit) leaving protection, to step onto the boulders (or just lower of if you trust the thread). This point is well above the high tide level and protected from small seas.
8. 10m S 4a. Step right 5m to belay above the drop off. Climb the wall above the drop off then the slab on the right to belay in the corner. (This belay is needed to avoid rope drag).
9. 15m HVS 5a (possibly E1 5a for the second if a back rope is not used). A good pitch. Reverse the corner (yet again leaving protection) to below an in-situ thread. Head right on underclings to reach the next slab. Cross this to a multi-peg, wire and cam belay.
10. 25m VS 5a. Layback easily up the obvious crack on the right to just below the main fault. Step down slightly then across to clip a thin insitu thread. Climb up to another thread above the main fault. Lower off the two threads (one on each rope – check the quality of the threads and back them up if needed) and swing around the arete. Lower down the overhanging wall about 12m placing gear to keep you in contact with the rock in the large crack of Barracuda. Stop when you see a line of good holds heading off right. Traverse along these using tension from the rope 3m to reach a belay on the next crack (Ocean Boulevard). (If you can’t find the holds or lose contact with the rock, just lower to the boulders.)
11. 20m VS 4c. Take the rising line of holds rightwards all the way to The Ramp to belay at the large block that sits on the even larger ledge.Variation: Derek’s Way. 40m E3 5b **. The lower out described above can be avoided by simply following the main fault line after clipping the two threads. The fault is much more solid here than elsewhere and protection can be found as you cross the many routes on the wall. Just keep going along the fault hoping your arms don’t give out. Steep down 3m when you reach a large crack (The Last Hurrah of the Golden Horde). This is just before the fault starts to get dusty. Follow an easy rightwards flake traverse for 3m to the large ledge with the large block on it.
12. 35m HS 4a. From the block, cross the wall rightwards below the line of The Ramp to a large flake system and climb right and up to meet the main break. Traverse the main break until you can drop down to stand on a jammed boulder in the corner of Jericho Grove.
13. 7m S 4a. Remove anything from the back of your harness and drop down behind the boulder (the rabbit’s hole) leaving protection for the second. The less slim will need to down-climb the outer West side of the boulder. Swing right and down to belay in a small corner below the widest part of the massive roof.
14. 40m HS 4a. Traverse right just above the main black flint bands. Belay after a slightly harder move at the base of a short layback and slab.
15. 10 m HS 4b. Up the layback to a belay on the main break just around the arête and at the top of the big corner.
16. 15m VS 4b. Descend the corner for 2m to reach the finger crack heading downwards across the wall. Follow this on underclings to belay in a small corner.
17. 15m VS 4c. Continue right around the arête, across the large corner (difficult) to cross the compact rock and continue right to the arête to belay on the cracks just before the next arete (the cracks of Bottomless Buttress).
18. [R] 18m HS 4b. Traverse rightwards along the easy line until the arête is reached. Climb up to belay below the main break at a sentry box.
19. [R] 15m HS 4b. Climb up to then traverse the main break on jugs (spectacular, but easy) to belay in the next corner (of The Fin) cross this to belay at the next corner (Luke).
20. [R] 25m VS 4c. Descend the large corner until level with the large roof on the left. Head right along the line of jugs, cross the corner, pull around and nose and belay in the next corner (of The Earth’s at Flash Point).
21. [R] 25m VS 4c. Step down the arete on the right and pull onto the wall. Cross this on good holds and traverse under the small roof to belay in the next corner (of Perversion).
22. [R] 12m VS 4b. Cross the wall on the right on yet more big holds for about 4m. Then head diagonally up to the obvious crack (of Midge), climb this to the fault line.
23. [R] 20m HVS 4b. Follow the fault line across the corner of Midge. Continue around the arete to belay in the large corner (of Snowdrop).
24. [R] 10m HVS 4b. Continue along the faultline to belay in the corner (of Thunderball).
25. [R] 30m HVS 4b. Follow the faultline, past various small corners, occasionally stepping briefly down and back up to reach the small groove and belay of Future Primitive.
26. [R] 15m HVS 5a. Follow the faultline right into the large corner. Cross the wall above the faultline. Follow undercuts and step down to a ledge to belay on the fault line.
27. [R] 20m HVS 5a. Difficult rope work. Step down and follow the ledge right into the next corner. Reverse the corner then cross the wall (the lower you descended the easier) to follow a line at about 45 degrees to belay around an arete and just below the main fault line.
28. [R] 40m E1 5a. Descend the corner and cracks (of Enos) for about 8m to the roof line then head right along the narrow fault crossing various cracks and small corners. Cross a larger chockstone-filled corner (of Hard Day’s Night) to make a few final pumpy moves to pull into the next corner (of Ulysses), taking great care with the large protruding block.
29. 18m E1 5a. Traverse right still following the thin break and about 10m above the boulders for around 10m to the next (shallow) corner (Grim Reaper). Take the easiest route to the main fault to a difficult to construct belay on the left.
30. 15m HVS 4c Follow the fault (protection in the roof of the fault) to the arete. Step around the arete using the large foot holds below the fault, then continue right to place a medium hex in the solid vertical crack above the fault and about midway between the arete and the corner. Either lower off the hex (backup pieces recommended) for 5m and swing into the massive corner (of Scythe) at the height of a foot ledge, or continue right making difficult moves on the sandy break and descend the corner to the same small ledge. In-situ peg and size 4 and 5 (BD C4 sizes) cam belay backed up by small wires. The second will need to leave the medium hex in place to protect the descent and stop a possible factor 2 fall onto the belay.
31. 15m E1 5a. Traverse the orange wall to make a hard move around the arete (size 1 C4 on the far right) to much easier climbing on monster but friable hand and footholds. Belay on the left hand side of the detached pillar.
32. 15m HS 4a. Walk careful rightwards to the far side of the pillar and descend the corner (leaving protection for the second. Step right to belay a few meters above the boulders.
33. 15m HVS 4c (E1 4c for the second). This pitch feels rather artificial with much of it very close to the boulders: meaning a slip could lead to an ankle damaging ground fall, so consider using the variation. Step up and around the arete on the right and pull into the corner (large thread), pull across the corner and thread a small rock in the crack (to protect the second). Pull right on poor holds to descend diagonally right to large jugs just above the boulders. Follow the jug line horizontally (various threads) until you can climb up easily and continue very easily to the crack below the left hand end of the large roof (belay here, or if rope drag is not a problem continue onto the next pitch). Variation (S, 4a) At the end of the last pitch (i.e. the descent from the pillar) simply step down onto the boulders to belay then walk right about 10m to pull back unto the rockface and follow the next pitch without stopping.
34. 22m HVS 5a. Climb up to the large roof. Traverse right under the roof (past Billy Pig) to turn the corner and belay.
35. 10 m VS 4b. Climb up the corner then traverse right just below the main fault in an airy situation until the diagonal crack of Sinbad is reached. Climb the crack to belay on the main fault line here, or if finishing up Buccaneer, 6m to the right in the big corner.
36. 20m HVS 5a. Follow the fault line right to drop across the corner (of Buccaneer). Descend the corner for about 6m to join the obvious hand traverse line. Follow this rightwards for 10m to belay just before the blocks jutting out from the wall.
37. 20m E1 5a. Well protected. Climb rightwards across the block and swing down under the roof. Cross the corner and traverse easily under the roof and continue to the right hand end of the square cut prow. Transverse around the arete into the corner and continue rightwards to belay on a small arete.
38. 15m HVS 4c. Continue rightwards on the same line to swing around the large arete and belay on hex’s in the large, dusty, twin cracks.
39. 25m E1 5a. Climb up to the main fault line and head right across the corner then along the fault line (dusty) to belay at Finale Groove.
40. 17m HVS 5a. Head down the corner (i.e. reverse Finale Grove) from the main fault line for 7m to a chockstone. Traverse right for 5m to meet the roof. Traverse under this stepping down 3m before the arête to belay on the arête.
41. 24m HVS 4c. Climb the corner on the right for 2m and drop down right under the roof. Traverse right in a spectacular position for 10m and swing around the arête. Climb the easy corner to the main fault line. Traverse easily right along the fault for about 8m to reach the next arête.
42. 5m HS 4b. Descend the corner for about 5m until level with the large roof and belay to avoid rope drag.
43. 8m E1 5a (or HVS A1). Well protected. Traverse right under the roof to reach a spike (on The Tool) at the far end.
44. 12m E1 5b (or HVS A1). Well protected. Step down (possibly leaving a sling on the spike to protect the second) and follow the rising underclings to reach an alcove and an easy traverse onto the ledge of Tatra. Belay on the right at the large crack on the good foot ledge. The last two pitches can be combined if free climbing, or on aid if carrying 2 sets of 0.3 to 2.5 inch cams.
45. 6m VS 4b (hard). As for Tatra. Up the crack; wrap a sling around the jug; hand traverse right on good small footholds to step up at the arête and belay.
46. 15m HS 4a. Traverse right along the main fault-line on good jugs to cross the big corner. Climb up and right across the slab to meet Director’s Groove. Belay.
47. 30m HVS 4c. Good rope work and plenty of 60cm and 120cm draws required. Descend the groove below the belay for about 8m (leaving plenty of runners to protect the second) to meet the obvious hand-traverse line. Follow this with the occasional step down to get around a hard bit to meet the groove of Lightning Wall. Step down 3m to a comfortable belay.
48. 25m E1 5b. Step right around the arete and cross the corner to climb back up to re-join the thin hand traverse line which is followed to a belay at a step-down and ledge (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
49. 17m E1 5b. Continue along the hand traverse to a spike belay on Acapulco (as for The Adventures of Portland Bill).
50. 30m VS 4c. Care needed to avoid rope drag. Traverse right around the corner and under the massive roof to meet Ximenes. Continue at the same level on big holds and pull around the arete into the big corner (of Gimcrack). Move delicately right (for about 4m) to the vertical crack (of Quasimodo). Step down to a belay.
51. [R] 15m HVS 5a. From a good belay on Quasimodo 5m below the fault line. Traverse right for 2m then head diagonally up to stand on a block just below the fault line. Head right and back down then across the wall to belay in a corner.
52. [R] 15m HVS 5b. Continue right at the level of, or above, the 6 inch flint band to a hanging belay.
53. [R] 10m HVS 5b. Swing round the arete and climb onto the slab. Belay in the middle of the slab.
54. [R] 25m HVS 5a (one move of aid) or E1 5b. Climb up to the fault and traverse this (threads and large cams in the fault with various small cams in the roof). Swing around the arete and pull across the short overhanging section on good jugs placing a wire at the most strenuous point to protect the second from swinging into the corner or to aid off (the second can remove this once in the corner). Place good gear in the corner as the rock is poor, although the climbing is easy, for the remaining 6m to the belay (pegs of unknown quality in the floor of the fault, good large wire at the back of the fault, good hex or large wire 1m to the right).
55. [R] 15m VDiff 3a. Using some tat, connect the pegs to the hex on the right and lower down the corner, then head easily across and down the wall (placing protection as you head across) belaying a few metres above the lip of a roof about 5m from the sea.
56. [R] 10m 5c, or 5a with tension from the rope. Relatively calm seas needed. Head diagonally downward to find underclings on the blunt arete. Follow these with difficulty around the overhanging arete to much easier climbing diagonally up to belay on a thread around a small pillar. Care is need to keep the second safe on this pitch.
57. [R] 20m HVS 5a. Traverse right to a large ledge and place good runners before the rock becomes compact. After a hard move right, continue traversing to follow good holds around the next arete. Step down to good foot holds and step across the small alcove. Climb the good hand crack for a couple of metres and belay. A high piece above the belay can be used to help protect the second as they follow final moves. (The hand crack is the left hand side of a pillar of rock. A very large sling or cordelette can be placed over the top of this to form an alternative belay.)
58. [R] 20m S 4a. Climb up the crack to stand on the pinnacle. Head right on the fault to a commodious stance just left of the long roof at 8m.
59. [R] 15m E1 5b. Climb the overhanging corner to the roof (as for the second pitch of October Lady), traverse right on jams with very good projection and pull over the end of the roof by reaching for a flake jug. Belay in the groove above.
60. [R] 30m VS 5a. Traverse right for about 20m to meet the crack of Old Faithful. Descend this, leaving lots of pro for the second and belay on the fault. (Variation VS 4b. The last two pitches can be avoided by simply continuing along the fault to Old Faithful. This will save time, but avoids the harder, and much better, climbing under the long roof.)
61. [R] 15m HVS 5a. Traverse rightwards along the main fault line for 10m until the void stops progress (possible belay on the arete). Climb down and into the cave until good jams and protection in the ceiling allow one to bridge across to the Duck’s neck. After sitting on the Duck’s head to rest, pull rightwards into the corner to belay (on Behemoth).
62. [R] 25m E1 5b. Wild. Climb the big corner (2nd Pitch of Behemoth) for 5m, arrange protection and traverse right to clip a lone peg in the middle of the wall. Pull up the thin crack on the right and traverse right above the roof into the corner. Cross the arete. Romp up the perfect rising diagonal crack and place a sacrificial carabiner for the second on the thread at its end. Step down the crack below the thread for 2m and cross the ledges on the right to the crack of Dublin Packet. Ascend the crack to belay under the roof.
63. [R] 17m HS 4a. Traverse the easy slab on the right and continue rising slightly to just below the cliff top. Head diagonally down from the high point (the highest point on Wonderland) over rough rock to pull surprisingly easily around into the corner (of Let the Punka Burn). Belay.
64. [R] 15m HS 4a. Cross ledges and step down and around a small roof to belay in the corner.
65. [R] 20m VS 4b. Head right then down to traverse at a height half way between the main fault and the roof above on glorious jugs for 10m then climb easily down to the main fault at the top of the first pitch of Airy Legs. Good belay.
66. 18m HVS 5a. Pull up into the corner and head off right on good holds. Just before the arete climb up (poor protection) and swing around into the corner (of War) to large wires or hexes. Climb down the corner leaving lots of protection for the second and belay on one of the most comfortable ledges on Wonderland.
67. 30m HS 4a. An excellent and fun pitch to finish on. Follow the, now solid, fault for 10m to the large crack. Climb this to the small roof and traverse right along monster jugs for about 10m to reach good runners in a flake crack. Climb the crack (Second Sight) to finally exit the Ruckle and a beer at the Square and Compass. Well done.

Additional info:
A mini guide to the route can be downloaded …

Climbers: Peter Albon, Felix Ottey

The Other Woman

Length/grade/stars: 10m HS 4a 1*

Start location:

A few mtrs right (looking in) of “Exit Route” is a large square cut recess. The route starts in the Back right corner of this.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the right corner of the recess to a huge ledge. Place gear and step back left to a hanging corner and crack. Climb this to scrappy ground and the top.

Additional info:

A good fun route well worth doing.

Climbers: Felix Ottey, Peter Albon

Grace Land

Length/grade/stars: 10m Severe 1*

Start location:

A few metres right of “Exit Route” is a Large square cut recess. Start in the centre of the seaward side of the buttress that forms the huge half height ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up easily in the centre of the black buttress. Then make use of the amazing flowstone thread and climb the centre of the stunning black wall on huge jugs. A short corner is then climbed to the top taking care with the massive perched blocks in the right.

Additional info:

A cool little climb with stunning rock in its central section.

Why Felix? Why?!

Length/grade/stars: 10m Diff

Start location:

Between “Intervention” and “Alternative Education” is a small slab leading up to an unappealing green cave, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slab and then mount the massive wedged block. You are now inside the cliff! A tight squeeze now leads up and out of the blow hole.

Additional info:

Way better than it looks! Loads of fun even though it’s short. A chance to sample the ambiance of routes like “Benny” and “Avernus” at a much more amenable grade.

Rich I Did A Run Out!

Date of ascent: 26/11/2016
Length/grade/stars: 10m S 4a or HS 4a
Climbers: Felix Ottey, Rich Ham

Start location:

Start at the right hand end of the ledge 3 meters right of Beginner’s Luck.

Pitch descriptions:

10m. Start at the very end of the ledge right of Beginers Luck. Move right around the end of the ledge to meet the large obvious crack line. Then bridge up it to a steepening near the top. Place good small wires here and make airy bridging moves to the finishing ledge.

Comment

I made the first ascent of this route. Not my friend Jamie Hannant. He belayed me on this and then I belayed him on his route “the Skin Room”. When we sent them in it was recorded as him. Please can we change this in future additions or re-prints. Thank you.

Comment

I made the first ascent of this route in 2007. Please can you make the editorial change in future additions or re-prints. Thanks