New Routes – Southern Sandstone

Pitch descriptions:
It starts off the large break and swings up to a good hold on the left. It then follows small sidepulls and monos up the faint groove to a bad sloper and layaway. From here it is a big move to a large flat hold and finish up the grassy bank.

Pitch descriptions:
Start the climb using a sloped sidepull and use this to reach a small undercut. To get to the undercut there are some technical and trusting foot placements. After you gain the undercut there is another technical move to a shallow jug and then smear up and reach to the top.

Additional info:
I top roped the climb with my friend belaying me. There have been no other repeats that I know of.

There are 3 new exciting routes in the old 4X4 area following the•collapse of this whole section.

1•Cotswold Guildford goes Outdoors•- Chalk 7 – Climbers, Matt Taylerson & Richard Handy

The first one is just right of the slab and goes through the overhanging start to follow the bolts to the right and then to an awkward pull teetering on the arete before finally gaining the upper reaches of the slab to a new Belay. Sadly Matt Taylerson who did the first ascent has named it “Cotswold Guildford goes Outdoors” so that he could get a freebie from this shop where he works. Richard Handy did the first ascent and helped create it with Matt. Matt knows it is poor show but he is only young and penniless and knows as with all Chalk Routes it is not permanent. It is graded Chalk 7 and is well worth doing.

2•Christmas Cracker•- Chalk 6 – Climbers, Andr• Hedger &Bez Bezancon

The second one is to the right where the old “Police 5” went. There is a new belay much higher than before. The Chalk is also steeper than before the rockfall so this follows the bolts and arrowed holds. Extremely reachy but well made holds and well bolted. It is Grade 6 and is called “Christmas Cracker‘ as it was done on the day of the Christmas Curry. All 3 of these routes were done on the same day Wednesday, December the 9th, 2009

3•Claus for Chalk•- Chalk 5+ – Climbers, Andr• Hedger &Bez Bezancon

The third one is further right to this but shares the same first bolt. It is a fine and stretchy climb which could get classic status! It is Grade 5+ and also goes to a new belay.

I did the first ascent of the second and third route with Bez Bezancon. It is called “Claus for Chalk”

There is also a new one I put up in the Pleasure Dome where there has been loads of Rockfall

4•Init•- Chalk 7 – Climber, Andr• Hedger

The climb is where the old “Cat on a Tin Roof” went. It goes to the same belay but now has a huge overhanging undercut base. The route strenuously pulls through this roof following the spaced arrows and is a Grade 7. It is called “Init” the slang version of Isn’t it!

Additional info:
I have been using up bolts and belay rings like crazy so if anyone can source more rings or bolts then that would be appreciated.

Pitch descriptions:
The centre line up the pocketed wall past the large holedish, then very fragile undercuts, finshing up the crack to a good hold on the top. Hard 6C. Please be careful when climbing the top as the holds are very thin and could snap off in wet weather.

Additional info:
Top Rope ascent

Pitch descriptions:
5c A straight line up between the pot-holes of Uganda Wall and Fireball.

Additional info:
In the current guidebook, this climb is recorded as having had no solo ascent. I soloed it without mats and ropes on 5th June 2011.

Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch. Climb the left hand side of the slab. Move slightly rightwards at third height to avoid the mild bulge and then continue along this line towards the top. Exit via the far left hand side of the slab at the short corner.

Additional info:
Onsight. Climbed purely with warthogs, all of which were removed by the second.

Pitch descriptions:
Use Right Hand Chipped Foot bold of Chipperydooha Climb up to small pocket and head straight up wall to the base of the small trees.

Additional info:
There is a small crimp about 4 1/2 m up for right foot there is a nice pair of hold to the left of the top of curling crack and just below the small yew and holly trees the top of the climb has two angled ledges for the hands. To get over the top it put a heal hook over towards fish and chips. This was Top Rope.

Beelzebub’s Crack

Date of ascent: 03/07/16
Length/grade/stars: HVS 5a **
Climbers: Will Baker, Elinor Betton

Start location:

Start at the obvious crack between “Bow Window (116)” and “Finger Strain (117). Using the climber’s club Souther Sandstone Guide 7th Edition.

Pitch descriptions:

Start at the obvious crack and follow diagonal crack line up to under the overhang, go right under overhang following the finish of 116.

Additional info:

Strange this route has never been documented. Its done with some great layback, rock over moves. Its also well protected with obvious bolt placements at the top. Good climb.

Bowles Rocks > Bowles Rocks East

Elevator

4m VD 5a ☆
06-Jul-1986, Dave Watkins and Mike Farnham
Just left of Escalator at Bowles. We climbed this in 1986 and recorded it in the first ascents book kept, at that time, in The Huntsman Eridge Green. We toproped it and cannot remember who did it first that day and recorded it very soon afterwards. For the last 33 years we have been very disappointed our ONLY claim to fame has not been properly credited let alone numbered separately from Escalator!

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

First Groove

4m f2
02-May-2022, Robin Mazinke
On the short wall behind the North Boulder. Climb the shallow groove towards the left side of the buttress. Probably done before.

Harrison’s Rocks

Passage Wall Right

4m f2+
28-Apr-2022, Robin Mazinke
On the short wall behind the North Boulder. Gain the ledge right of Passage Direct and finish direct. Probably done before.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Mantel and Flake

6m HVD 4a
11-Sep-2022, Robin Mazinke
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. There is a corner 4 metres left of the cave. There is a short right-facing flake 4 metres left of the corner and at a height of 3 metres, mantelshelf onto the ledge below this and climb past it, finishing left of the stump. Grade UK tech 3b but no top-rope option and dropdown only allows 4a and above. no top-rope option Probably done before.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Tingle Creek

6m HVD 4a
11-Sep-2022, Robin Mazinke
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. There is a corner 4 metres left of the cave. Mantelshelf onto the ledge 2 1/2 metres left of the corner, easier climbing leads to the right of the stump. Grade UK tech 3a but no top-rope option and dropdown doesn’t allow lower than 4a. Probably done before.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

One-Armed Bandit

5m HVD 4a
09-Jul-2023, Robin Mazinke
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. Starting below the cave, climb the right slanting diagonal slot, harder than it looks. UK tech 4a, no top-rope option.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Sausage Roll

5m S 4c
15-Jul-2023, Robin Mazinke
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. 6 metres right of the cave is a vertical crack, just left of a holly. The wall 1 metre left of the crack of Your First Jams. UK tech 4c, no top-rope option.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Your First Jams

5m HVD 4a
13-Jul-2023, Robin Mazinke
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. 6 metres right of the cave is a vertical crack, just left of a holly. Climb the crack to the left of the holly, unfortunately the jams run out before the top. UK tech 4a, no top-rope option.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Portobello

5m HVD 4a
17-Aug-2023, Robin Mazinke, Sarah Goodman
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. 6 metres right of the cave is a vertical crack, just left of a holly. The wall directly below, and finishing on, the holly bush. Uk tech 4a, no top-rope option.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Psilocybin

7m D 4a ☆
17-Aug-2023, Robin Mazinke, Sarah Goodman
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. 6 metres right of the cave is a vertical crack, just left of a holly. A bit of a trip, but the easiest and most obvious line on the wall to the right of the crack, starting below the holly bush follow the right slanting stepped diagonal. UK tech 2b, no top-rope option and drop-down doesn’t allow lower than 4a.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Easy Gully

5m M 4a
27-Aug-2022, Robin Mazinke
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. 6 metres right of the cave is a vertical crack, just left of a holly, further right is another chimney/gully. The short chimney/gully at the right end of the Mushrooms Right sector. UK tech 2a, but no top-rope option and dropdown doesn’t allow lower than 4a.

Harrison’s Rocks > Harrison’s Rocks North

Chanterelle

5m D 4a
17-Aug-2023, Robin Mazinke, Sarah Goodman
The Sandown Crags run south from the North Boulder for approximately 100m, the main identifying features are the easy-angled slab at the left end, an earthy gully, often used for descent, at the mid-point and 16 metres right of this is a small cave at half-height formed by a boulder. 6 metres right of the cave is a vertical crack, just left of a holly, right again is a stepped diagonal taken by Psilocybin. Climb the slab directly to the small oak tree, at the finish of Psilocybin. UK tech 3a but no top-rope option and dropdown doesn’t allow lower than 4a.