Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.
Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Gammon Head Date of ascent : Various see below Start location: To the left of “Mental Block” is a short steep wall split in the centre by a rightward leaning double crackline.Routes: The Esoteric Apprentice; VS 4c 60ft. Follows the crackline steeply to a ledge. Move leftwards across the impending wall above then back right, easily up a short corner to ledges and belay. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 29.3.97 on-sight) Gentle Arete; E1 5a * Razor-back; E1 5a Sow Séance; VD |
Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Prawle Point Date of ascent : 28/03/97 Route Name: Kestrel’s Arete Length/grade/stars : Diff Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Climbs the left arete of the first and largest buttress on the right, above the diagonal path leading up to the coastguard look-outPitch description: A steep start leads to interesting lichen and climbing. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker – see My First Ascent Bum Start below. Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Beach Date of ascent : 24/04/2010 Route name : My First Ascent Length/grade/stars : 5-8meters, V2 and 1 star, scary. Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L. Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees and follow the signposts Churston CovePitch descriptions: V2 Standing start which starts with a layback where you layback for around a meter then dyno across to a pocket and then hang on the sloper around shoulder width to the right of the pocket then there is a powerful move up to the next hold while hanging about 50cm up then you put you feet on a slopey hold right up near your chest then push with the legs to a big clear hold to then top out. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Beach Date of ascent : 24/04/2010 Route name : Heave’ High Length/grade/stars : 8meters, V5 and 1 star, V.scary. Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the Left. Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees follow the signposts churston cove.Pitch descriptions: V2 Standing start straight into the crux of the overhang where you head over using a heal hook to the left then reach over the overhang to reach a difficult distant medium sized hold then use you heal hook to lift up and then go further to the right to then top out. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 20/02/10 Route name : Die Hard 10 Length/grade/stars : 8meters, V2, 1 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: The slab is the second from last slab facing fishcombe cove, which is in sight from the beach the line starts in the middle of the slab. The topo gives you a very clear discription of what the climb entails.Pitch descriptions: High ball boulder problem, V2 Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 20/02/10 Route name : First Fifteen Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V2, 1 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: The slab is the second from furthest slab facing fishcombe cove from, which is in sight from the beach the line starts to the right of the slab the topo gives a clear insight to what the route will entail.Pitch descriptions: Not very positive footholds on some of the route. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 24/02/10 Route name : Observation Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V3, 1 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: Use the information on getting to churston cove, then use this information to get to the bottem of the climb. The slab is the second from furthest slab facing fishcombe cove from, which is in sight from the beach the line starts to the as far to the right of the of the slab. The problem traverses to the left of the route. Again the topo gives a clear insight to what the route will entail.Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 20/02/10 Route name : Ready to Rumble Length/grade/stars : 7m, v2, 2 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: The slab is the last slab insight from the beach, situated just before a Limestone 6ft wall, the line is about 2ft from the small Limestone wall, but once again the topo shows a very clear view of what the climb entailsPitch descriptions: Use the Topo, the route is quite straight forward and scary. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 24/02/10 Route name : That’s the spirit Length/grade/stars : 5meters, V4, 2 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: The problem is situated right at the end of the rock walk facing the rest of the rocks and beach.Pitch descriptions: It has a terrible landing with bad placing for a boulderind pad, it makes the climb rather dangerous. The climbs basically follows the top of the boulder with the hands, walking hand over hand, with feet flat against the rock. can be wet, the routes is very powerful and pumpy. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 20/02/10 Route name : Tidels high Length/grade/stars : 9meters, V1, 0 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: The climb is siuated opposite That’s the spirit, cannot be climbed when high tide.Pitch descriptions: Good flat landing. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 20/02/10 Route name : With Summer Berries and Cream Length/grade/stars : 7meters, V4, 2 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: The routes are on the same slab as Die hard 10, First fifteen and Observation, but is more central than others.Pitch descriptions: It is very fingery and has lots of smeary foot holds on most of the route. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 26/02/2011 Route name : Fizzy Strawberries Length/grade/stars : 10m long, V0+, 0 Climbers : Sam Robinson Start location: At the top of the hill on the left of the Cove there are two sort of miniture quarries (and I mean miniture). Hike to the one nearest to the sea there is two faces on the one that is more featureless (unlike the other which is long steps)on the left of the face start and then traverse left.Pitch descriptions: Easy warm up problem. Very straight forward. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 26/02/2011 Route name : Panic Attack Length/grade/stars : 4 meters, V4, 2 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: The featureless face at the end of Fizzy strawberries.Pitch descriptions: Sit down start, use the tiny crimps to pull on to struggle to the top of the problem. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker – see original My First Ascent above. Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : Route name : My First Ascent Bum Start Length/grade/stars : V4 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: Starts at My First Ascent and sitting start instand of standing.Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon and Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove Date of ascent : 11/03/2011 Route name : Bring on the Pain Length/grade/stars : V5 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: Scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. Start at the lowest part of the rock down the sheet of rock, start sitting and traverse right finish up the corner to top out which is scary. When climbing the problem stay as low as possible as this is the correct line if you get higher then it turns into about a V3 problem.Pitch descriptions: About 10 meters long and quite sharp rock. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Ellis Butler Barker Area : South Devon and Dartmoor Crag : Churston Cove, Tidel Wave Date of ascent : 11/03/2011 Route name : Bring on the Pain Extension Length/grade/stars : V6 Climbers : Ellis Butler Barker Start location: Scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. Start at the lowest part of the rock down the sheet of rock, start sitting and traverse right, continue around the corner.Pitch descriptions: About 18 meters long. Pumpy with sharp rock some of the problem has big jugs then some has tiny crimps etc. Additional info: |
Submitted by : David Radley Area : South Devon & Dartmoor Crag : London Bridge Date of ascent : 7/9/12 Route name : Faith Length/grade/stars : 10m F7b S01 Climbers : David Radley Start location: Approach as for Freddie the Frog.Pitch descriptions: Good moves on an independent line. 1. Climbs the wall between ‘Freddie the frog’ and ‘Pumping dancefloor energy’. Continune traversing under Freddie… until under the centre of the wall. Move up to a prominent gaston and good crimp to its L. Thin moves on layaways and crimps lead up, before a puzzling and pumpy finish on flatties and slopers. Additional info: |
Comment Submitted by : Ken Daykin Crag : Chudleigh Rocks Date : 21/07/2016 Route name : Never on Sunday CommentThis is really a comment on SW Climbs vol 2 page 110. Description should really say ‘two caves one 3 metres above the other. Pitch 1 a better description would be: Climb to the higher cave. Leave it by bridging up until a step left can be made onto a small ledge. Climb slabby rocks above to a large ledge and then a short wall to a higher ledge below the corner of Scar. Belay. Pitch 2: Climb a crack above the belay and then traverse rightwards round the arete and onto a small ledge on the front of the face. Climb the left arete and then move right to a tree. From here climb up rightwards to a large tree belay (actually at the top of Wogs). Escape over the wall (as for Wogs) to the nice comfy look-out cave, a good lunch spot! This is a optional pitch of 1.5m with a good (and well used!) runner slot in the centre of the top of the wall! The tree stump at the top of pitch one mentioned in the current guide was nowhere to be seen. This would affect the description of Scar as well. |
Submitted by: Barry Clarke Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188) Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo) Date of ascent: 12/09/2017 Very FondantLength/grade/stars: 12m D Start location:From the large ledge at the Quarry (northern) end at the start to Quality Street, walk up leftwards (facing out) for a few metres, then scramble down leftwards (facing out) to reach a small ledge just above high water mark. Start here below a slabby groove which transforms itself into a flake. Pitch descriptions:Climb the groove and flake and finish rightwards. Little Sunny SlabLength/grade/stars: 15m S Start location:Start as for Very Fondant. Pitch descriptions:4a Descend for 1 metre, step right around the rib and follow a shelf diagonally rightwards to below the centre of an attractive slab. Search for the crucial runner and follow the fine slab to the top. Skid RowLength/grade/stars: 16m S Start location:Just right of the finish of Little Sunny Slab is a cliff top cut-out. Scramble down the ridge just left (facing out) of the cut-out to high water mark; start here. Pitch descriptions:4a Traverse left, with feet at barnacle level, to a small ledge, just right of the edge of the wall. From the left end of the ledge climb the wall and narrow flake crack to the cut-out. Date of ascent: 14/09/2017 TemeraireLength/grade/stars: 50m VS Start location:Start as for Quality Street (Quarry, northern side!). Pitch descriptions:
Descent:- depending on where the gear has been left, traverse left or right along the terrace. Exposed, rope recommended! BlancaLength/grade/stars: 10m HS Start location:Start as for Very Fondant. Pitch descriptions:4a Climb the rib on the right, step right and follow the left side of the slab via the thin, horizontal seams. Jammy DodgerLength/grade/stars: 11m S Start location:Start 2 metres right of Jim Jam on a small flake ledge just above high water mark below the left side of the right edge of the wall. Gained by abseil or down-climbing just left (facing out) of the edge. Pitch descriptions:4a Climb the left side of the edge to a ledge, finish up the white groove. |
Submitted by: Barry Clarke Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188) Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)Date of ascent: 19/09/2017 Teemin’Length/grade/stars: 9m S1 F3 Start location:Immediately right (facing in) of Calcite Diamond on Cloudburst Buttress is a shallow bay whose far side has an attractive sidewall. This wall forms the left end of a small square buttress, riven by a cleft on its landward side (named as T-Mac in the CC, SW Climbs Vol 2 book!). The first route takes the right edge of the sidewall facing Calcite Diamond, gained by scrambling down to high water mark just to its right. Pitch descriptions:Traverse left to the edge and follow it to the top. AnteakLength/grade/stars: 7m S1 F3+ Start location:Descend the left edge (facing out) of T-mac buttress via a slabby groove (Mod) to high water mark. Pitch descriptions:Step left into a shallow groove on a blunt rib, and follow this with increasing delicacy. DaylightLength/grade/stars: 15m VS Start location:The small just east of the rocky shoulder cuts inland diagonally and is very narrow; and is named as Living Zawn in the CC, SW Climbs Vol 2 book! Scramble down the left edge (facing out) of the zawn to high water mark, start here. Pitch descriptions:4c Climb a gangway up leftwards for 3 metres, then make tricky moves to gain the white, left-trending flakes and follow these to the top. Good climbing, with an unusual crux! Additional info:Confusion reigns in this area:-
The Friendly TrawlermanLength/grade/stars: 23m S Start location:Ten metres beyond (E) of the narrow zawn containing Daylight (CC Website), is a wider zawn with the routes Placebo etc (named as Hidden Zawn in the CC, SW Climbs Vol 2 book!). Scramble down the left edge (facing out) of the zawn and continue rightwards down a wide crack to gain a large ledge at the entrance to the zawn opposite Placebo; start here. Pitch descriptions:4a Climb a steep little corner for 3 metres, then step out left onto a slab. Follow the diagonal crack up rightwards to ledges, from where a short crack in a red wall reaches easier ground. Additional info:Named after a concerned fisherman who was concerned about my health and general well-being!!! Date of ascent: 22/09/2017 Lurv JeepsterLength/grade/stars: 17m S1 F4+ Start location:Start as for Very Fondant (CC Website). Pitch descriptions:Descend and step around the rib on the right and make an awkward traverse rightwards for 4 metres to reach high water mark below a blank groove. Bridge, and make a strenuous pull onto the rib right of the groove. Follow this on better holds to the top. SkedaddleLength/grade/stars: 14m S Start location:Start as for Skid Row (CC Website) Pitch descriptions:4a Follow Skid Row leftwards to the small ledge. Take the groove above and slightly right, finishing rightwards. Pleasant climbing! PatchworkLength/grade/stars: 6m S Start location:Between Jammy Dodger (CC Website) and Cloudburst Buttress is a short wall with a central crackline above a sloping ledge just above high water mark. Gain the sloping ledge by abseil or from the down-climb to Jammy Dodger (VD). Pitch descriptions:4a Climb the crackline via a small niche. Short, but sweet! |
Submitted by: Barry Clarke Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo) Date of ascent: 25/09/2017 Peasy CrackLength/grade/stars: 12m S Start location:Just left (facing out) of Anteak (CC Website) a small inlet defines the left side of an easy-angled buttress (named as Easy Buttress in the SW Climbs, Vol 2 book!). Abseil down the left side (facing in) of the easy-angled buttress to a small ledge just below high water mark. Pitch descriptions:4a Traverse left, descending slightly along a flake handrail for 4 metres, to reach a thin crack just before the inlet narrows markedly. Make a steep pull to start the crack, which then leads pleasantly to the top. BreakoutLength/grade/stars: 12m HS Start location:In the narrow zawn containing Daylight (CC Website), abseil down the back of the zawn to gain a sloping ledge. Mid/low tide and calm seas required! Pitch descriptions:4a Step right and climb a short groove to gain a ledge system on the left (facing out) wall of the zawn. Move right and make an awkward move to reach a rock boss above the right-hand end of the ledges. Follow positive holds directly to the top. Climbers: BJ Clarke, P Ellis Dark LightLength/grade/stars: 13m HS Start location:Approach as for Breakout (CC Website) by abseiling down the back of the narrow zawn to gain the sloping ledge. Mid/low tide and calm seas required! Pitch descriptions:4a Move up a ramp to gain a sheltered stance below the chimney proper, which forms the back of the zawn. Climb the chimney up a motley concoction of rock. |
Submitted by: Barry Clarke Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188) Little John SilverDate of ascent: 09/10/2017 Start location:Start as for Patchwork. Pitch descriptions:4b From the sloping ledge descend slightly and traverse rightwards around the rib, stepping up to gain a clean-cut groove which leads to the top. |
Submitted by: Barry Clarke Crag: Anstey’s Cove Area Date of ascent: 25/10/2017 Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo) Liv TilerLength/grade/stars: 25m HS Start location:Twelve metres left of Cocytus and 3 metres left of a line of bolts, is a large recess at 5 metres; start below this feature. Pitch descriptions:4a Pull up into a niche just right of a clump of ivy, and continue up on rounded holds to gain the the recess. Trend up leftwards, then rightwards, before following a vague rib, mainly on its left side, to a double-bolt lower-off. Talcum SlabLength/grade/stars: 12m VS Start location:Start 2 metres left of Liv Tiler at a short steep wall guarding access to a slab. Pitch descriptions:4c Move up to a flake hold and heave over onto a small ramp. Step left and make a bold pull to gain the slab. Climb the left side of the slab to tiny tree belays up and left. Virtually unprotected, so care is required with the yellowish powder that gathers on the slab and acts like talcum powder on rock shoe rubber! |
Submitted by: Barry Clarke Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p188) Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)Date of ascent: 14/11/2017 Roots ManuvaLength/grade/stars: 11m HS Start location:Start as for Teemin’ (CC Website) Pitch descriptions:4b Follow Teemin’ for 4 metres, then step left to reach a series of slanting cracks. Move down leftwards onto a good foothold at the base of a small niche; from where a left-trending flake crack gives a brisk finish. Fine climbing! Additional info:The route name: apparently a famous and popular rapper (whatever that is?); but it fits! Date of ascent: 16/11/2017 Squirm HoleLength/grade/stars: 10m S Start location:On the landward side of the buttress containing Teemin’ etc, is a cleft. Scramble into the cleft and belay on a black boulder at mid water level. Pitch descriptions:Climb a short greasy corner to a ledge, then chimney out to the light. TinctorisLength/grade/stars: 9m S Start location:Immediately right (facing out) of the finish of Roots Manuva (CC Website)is a recessed wall with a groove in its centre. Abseil, or down-climb the groove (VD) to footholds just above a large sea-weedy ledge (mid-tide and below and calm seas!). Pitch descriptions:4a Climb back up the groove for 3 metres until above the barnacles. Step right and follow positive holds up the left side of the rib to the top. StonadosLength/grade/stars: 12m S Start location:Start as for Tinctoris (CC Web site) Pitch descriptions:Traverse right for 5 metres to just short of the main corner. Move up and right to gain and follow this corner to the top. |
Submitted by: Barry Clarke Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188) Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)Date of ascent: 29/11/2017 Rose-TintedLength/grade/stars: 6m S Start location:Start on a large platform (exposed at mid-tide) on the left side (facing out) of Cloudburst Buttress. gained by abseil or a down-climb (VD). Pitch descriptions:4a Step across from the right end of the platform and follow the fine twin cracks up the bulging red wall. Additional info:This platform lurks just below the surface at high tide and threatens the routes on the right-hand side of Cloudburst Buttress for anyone contemplating a DWS ascent! Right WingLength/grade/stars: 20m VD Start location:Approach as for The Friendly Trawlerman (CC Website), but continue to scramble down the front of the buttress to mid water mark. Pitch descriptions:Traverse rightwards across the barnacles and go around the corner of the buttress before striding across a tiny inlet. Climb the wall above on large brittle holds to a sloping ledge. A steep crack 3 metres left gives a contrasting finish. Date of ascent: 01/12/2017 MataeusLength/grade/stars: 8m VS Start location:Start as for Rose-Tinted Pitch descriptions:4b Step across to below the twin cracks. Traverse right for a metre and climb a flake crack, before stepping right onto the rib. Make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge and mantel for the top. Short, but exciting! |
South Hams CoastRoute Comment: Rib Climb, Prawle Point, page 8801-Jan-1970, |
South Hams Coast > St Anchorite’s Rock > Hermit ArêteTori Bright14m VD Add Info:- This approach may be a more discreet way of accessing Hermit Arête due to a plethora of new fencing and ‘Private’ signs in this area to protect the breeding of pheasants! |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveBlack Sheep15m D |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveWoolsack16m D |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveFall Out Zone14m HS 4b |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveBizzy Bee10m VD |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveShippen Traverse and Needle70 M From the col climb the landward edge of the Needle to the summit. Descent:- down-climb this edge. The seaward edge is easier but requires a long step below the north face. |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveA Taste Of11 M Climb the crack to the edge and continue to the summit for the better belays. |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveHoney Trap14 D Climb the steepening groove and crack to the edge. |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveHoney Moon15 S Make a long stride right across the recess, climb the rib above, keeping right on the honey-coloured rock. Fine climbing! |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveNectary16 S Trend leftwards up the groove, where it steepens, step right and continue to the top. The spiky wall just right gives, Spoon Lick (14m VD Clarke 7.9.18). |
South Hams Coast > Hope CoveHoney Monster14 HS 4a |
South Hams Coast > Bury Stone CliffTail Wagging23m VD Climb the slab and the right side of the white blade of rock above to spike runners. Finish up the left-hand of the two grooves. |
South Hams Coast > Bury Stone CliffTail-Gating24m S Climb a slabby groove and the steeper groove above to a ledge. Move rightwards up a ramp and follow the edge to the top. |
South Hams Coast > Bury Stone CliffOld Wives24m VD Climb the dark wall and continue direct up easier ground. |
South Hams Coast > Bury Stone CliffSwallow25m VD Climb the corner to the overhang, and make a long traverse left to the finish of Old Wives. |
South Hams Coast > Bury Stone CliffCanterbury12m HS 4b Bridge up and step right onto the undercut grey wall. Move up and follow the handrail rightwards to the edge; from where a steep pull gains easier ground and nut/cam belays on the slabs. |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointWaterwald8m 6b(French) |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointSentinel Block9m S 4b |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointAlliatronic10m HS 4b |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointEphelis9m VS 4b |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointCrepuscalar Crawl10M S 4b |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointBubbly Blonde23m S 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointSouth Sea Bubble25m S 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointMinx9m S 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointBarndance7m S 4b |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointChocco Mousse20m D |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointMoose21m VS 4c |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointMother of Pearl9m S 4b |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointRail-Line12m S 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointParsec14m S 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointJolly Not Sensible Arête11m HS 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointTrova6m S 4b |
Torquay AreaSidi Bel Abbes II60m HVS 4c |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointLammas8m S 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointTwo Shakes7m VD |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointPlatelets8m HS 4c |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointCool Isolation9m HS 4c |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointFolding8m S 4a |
Torquay Area > Long Quarry PointReet Petit16m S 4a |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaAccess Code14m S 4b |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaCodex17m S 4b |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaOssen Feather20m S 4b |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaOaliburn24m S 4b |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaKatzenvellenovan22m S 4b |
Torbay Coast > Brixham Area > Shoalstone BeachCormorant Traverse4m f5+ |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaFlux Ache9m MS 4a Start as for Cool Isolation. (CC Website 1.8.18). Trend up rightwards to gain a rust-coloured groove, follow this mainly by its left rib. DWS grade S2 F3+, high tide required! Note for Editor: The calendar date seems stuck at year 2020. The actual date for this ascent was 5.12.2021! Merry Christmas |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaPumpernickle15m S 4a Start at the large rounded hidden ledge (littered with lethal rusting ironmongery!), situated at high tide level below the seaward face of the Pinnacle. This is gained by descending the deep slot as for Plimsoll Line (p 368) and traversing leftwards (facing out) from near the bottom. From the right-hand side of the ledge traverse right (facing in) at high tide level descending slightly to gain a sloping niche just left of the cave/overhang. Climb the shallow groove above and make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Move rightwards along the ledge for 2 metres and follow the shelving slabs leftwards to gain the quarry floor. DWS grade S2 F3+ |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaTwelfth Night14m S 4a Start as for Pumpernickle (CC Website 22.12.21). Follow Pumpernickle to the sloping niche. Step right and climb the rib to gain the sloping ledge, before finishing directly. DWS grade S2 E3+. |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaCraquelure 10m S 4b Start as for Lammas (CC Website 1.8.18). Pull over the bulge as for Lammas, then stride left onto a small finely-positioned ledge on a rib. Continue up the rib to the top. DWS grade S1 F4. Essentially a variation on Lammas, but it’s a little gem. High tide recommended! FA date 28.1.22 The name: the cracking of varnish on old paintings |
South Hams Coast > Westcombe rocks beach SX634456Polly’s peril 15m S 4a ☆ At the western end of the beach at low tide walk towards Hoist beach through a narrow sandy causeway. Here you will find a clean slab and an obvious corner with positive holds. Start at the base of the corner and climb directly to the top of the fin of rock. Break out and move right to belay on small wires well back. Abseil off a rocky spike returning to the base of the climb. First climbed on 17/05/1992! Taken a while to send it in !!! |
Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaFleckles 8m S Start as for Folding (CC Website 1/8/18) at the right-facing groove. Move up right and follow the miniature white-flecked flakes until a step right gains the easier finishing groove. |
South Hams Coast > Combe Point SX 88304867Reginald Reade’s Route16m D Park at the National Trust car park just west of Little Dartmouth (OS: SX 874491). Walk south on the surfaced section of the coast path and on arriving at the cliff top turn east until the path swings north at a gate towards Willow Cove. From this gate walk downhill on small tracks through gorse on the west side of a barbed wire fence. At the bottom the barbed wire has a plastic sleeve to give access to the obvious ridge that runs out to the tip of Combe Point. Move down this ridge until it flattens slightly. Nearer sea level it has slabs on its west side. Pinnacles will be seen above the east face and these mark the top of the crag. Rock belays are available up the ridge and this will give a 30m abseil to ledges and belays just above the high tide barnacle line. The crag consists of a prominent triangular slab/wall above a zawn. Moving right is an arete and then easier angled slab (bottom of abseil and start of Reginald Reade’s Route) further right still is an overhanging wall above another zawn. From the bottom of the abseil climb the easy angle slab on big holds until the wall above steepens. Pass the steep wall on its left via a steeper slab and left arete. Move up the left side of the arete to good belays (or use the abseil rope) The route name comes from the memorial cross to Reginald Colebrook Reade who fell over the cliff at Willow Bay in 1891. |
Torbay Coast > Torquay Coast > Meadfoot Quarry > The Pinnacle AreaSlotto7m VD |