New Routes – Portland

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Submitted by : Simon Crook
Crag : The new cuttings, the playground
Date of ascent : 21/03/2010
Route name : Fire drill
Length/grade/stars : Boulder problem 5m, V2
Climbers : Simon Crook
Start location:
Follow published approach to new cuttings bouldering area; the playground. New problem is between 9. Right crack (V0-) and 10. See Saw (V1) in the guidebook pg 300

Pitch descriptions:
Crouching start on the top of the large flake, move up via a rock over into a pinch sloper to the right. Using a layback acces a drill scar crimp and a small gaston crimp above and pop for the horizontal break, top out to the left as for right crack

Additional info:
Boulder problem No known repeats

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 10/03/2014
Route name : Hangingstones
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Corner Climb at a shallow cave next to a large rock scar.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the newly-formed corner and pull through the bulge. Continue up to the conglomerate ledge.

Additional info:
This route probably replaces Hanging Slab! Corner Climb and Hypothesis repeated—grades confirmed!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 10/03/2014
Route name : Middleground
Length/grade/stars : 25m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Hangingstones.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left and climb up leftwards to gain a traverse line below the steep wall. Follow the traverse line leftwards all the way to the ridge. Step up and finish up the nicely-exposed left-trending white ramp.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 14/03/2014
Route name : The Return of the Non-Native
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Diamond Solitaire.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step left and teeter up the grey scoop. Unprotected, the bolts are out of reach!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 14/03/2014
Route name : Flip Side
Length/grade/stars : 20m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of Diamond Edge, below a dark wavy slab facing the main upper cliff.

Pitch descriptions:
Use the corner to start the slab, and follow it and the ridge above to the top

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Blacknor Undercliff Lunar Park (P 72)
Date of ascent : 13/04/2014
Route name : Lunar Tick
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Sun Spot.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby right-hand side of the rib.

Additional info:
The grey, crinkly slab 1 metre right is Helios (7m S Clarke 13.4.14).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Blacknor Undercliff Lunar Park (P 72)
Date of ascent : 13/04/2014
Route name : Clair de Lune
Length/grade/stars : 8m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Ten metres seaward of Lunar Tick, another boulder has an attractive grey slab facing leftwards (S). Start at the centre of this slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the pockets up the runnel to the top.

Additional info:
The ridge 2 metres right gives a pleasant amble, after a tricky start; Moonbase Alpha (8m S Clarke 13.4.14).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Stair Hole Bastion (p358)
Date of ascent : 30/04/2014
Route name : TMT
Length/grade/stars : 18m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 7 metres right of Bastion Traverse, below a right-trending ramp.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp (easier for shorter climbers!) and step right around an edge. Avoid the dodgy block above by the steep rib just to its right. Continue up two short walls to gain the summit ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Stair Hole Bastion
Date of ascent : 03/05/2014
Route name : Out of Sight
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS 4b S1 F4+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of the crack of Bastion Traverse.

Pitch descriptions:
Use a jug to gain the rib on the right and climb it on incuts to an easing of angle. Step right and climb a short wall to reach the summit ridge. Worthwhile but close to the corner crack on the left!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Stair Hole Bastion
Date of ascent : 03/05/2014
Route name : Water Resistant
Length/grade/stars : 12m HS 4b S1 F4
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for TMT.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the ramp of TMT for 5 metres, then make an interesting move over the bulge on the left. Move up leftwards and finish up the short wall of Out of Sight.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Stair Hole Bastion
Date of ascent : 03/05/2014
Route name : Avuncalar
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 18 metres right of TMT and 2 metres right of the gully of Lewis.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb a rib and continue up the thin cracks in the slabby wall above to a belay in a recess below the massive overhangs.
Descent:- Either abseil, or traverse left (looking in) for 6 metres and down-climb the slabs back to sea-level (VD).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Stair Hole Bastion
Date of ascent : 03/05/2014
Route name : Sensaround
Length/grade/stars : 15m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Avuncalar.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the rib and wall to an overlap at 7 metres. Step up the thin crack just left, before following the fine slabby wall on the left to the break below the overhangs. Swing down left to the recess belay of Avuncalar, and descend as for that climb.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Obelisk Wall (p 220)
Date of ascent : 11/05/2014
Route name : Obelisk Traverse
Length/grade/stars : 10m V0-
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Willow’s Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the thin break rightwards, with feet in the lower break. Swing around Silver Bullet to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Hidden Cove
Date of ascent : 11/05/2014
Route name : Fright Nite
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start in the corner immediately right of The Scary Roof Traverse.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up leftwards and gain a standing position above the roof. Escape up the cruddy corner on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 17/05/2014
Route name : Block Access
Length/grade/stars : 7m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite Sketchtastic is an undercut boulder. Start immediately right of the hole leading down to The Bolt Factory etc, at a small block in the undercut.

Pitch descriptions:
4b From the tip of the block pull into the shallow scoop. Follow the scoop rightwards to the top.

Additional info:
Descent:- down the right (looking in) edge of the slab, recce advised!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 17/05/2014
Route name : Opening Soon
Length/grade/stars : 13m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of The Erogenous Stone at the wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the wide (and widening!) crack. Near the top, finish leftwards along the cracks.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 21/06/2014
Route name : Solostice
Length/grade/stars : 9m S S2 (F3+)
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately left of Twisting by the Pool on a boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across and climb the groove on the right to finish up the rib on the right.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 21/06/2014
Route name : Travelling
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS 4c S1 (F5)
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of The Last Suitcase before the Holocaust.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin steep wall up rightwards for 3 metres to gain the slab (care required, starting boulder beneath!). Step right and climb direct to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 21/06/2014
Route name : Light
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS 4c S1 (F5)
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Travelling.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Travelling onto the slab; step right and right again before climbing up the slab, keeping to the left side of the dark plaques of rock.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 14/07/14
Route name : Jour de Bastille
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of the descent from the grotto; and 1 metre left of the thin flake of Too Driven.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the fine, steepening grey wall, keeping left of the rock scar; before stepping left onto the edge of the grotto. Finish here, or climb the cracks above.

Additional info:
The top half of Too Driven has collapsed; this rock fall has also removed the top 3 metres of Pussy Galore!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 26/07/2014
Route name : A Very Good Start
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Good Start, but at a lower level, in a newly-created recess.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Swing up leftwards onto a slabby prow. Step left, pull through the bulge and finish leftwards up the straightforward slab above.

Additional info:
Pitted Slab repeated, the starting block has gone, suggest upgrade to VD! Conclusion repeated, suggest upgrade to HS (4a), due to poor protection!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 26/07/2014
Route name : Yingli Solar
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre LEFT of A Very Good Start at a notch in the strip roof (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull through the notch on reasonable holds. Continue over the next bulge and finish up the left side of the slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Cave Hole (p 233)
Date of ascent : 21/08/2014
Route name : Napper’s Mite
Length/grade/stars : 14m HVS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Four metres right (looking out) of the down-climb to Desperado etc; another down-climb (Mod) in the vicinity of a jagged arete leads to a sloping mid-tide ledge. Start 10 metres left of the foot of this descent in the back of a shallow cave.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Traverse leftwards along the shelves at high-tide level to gain a white-coloured groove. Follow the groove to its capping roof and make somewhat urgent moves rightwards to escape.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Cave Hole (p 233)
Date of ascent : 21/08/2014
Route name : Danny Ocean
Length/grade/stars : 7m S1 VS 4c (F4+)
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of the down-climb for Napper’s Mite.

Pitch descriptions:
Swing down rightwards using the prominent jug and climb up to gain the jagged arete; before taking the wall on the right to finish. The look-alike rib 3 metres LEFT of the down-climb gives a couple of bold moves, Porcupine (6m VS 4c Clarke 21.8.14).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 23/08/2014
Route name : JCB Please!
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Fifteen metres right of the start of the rising coast path on the east side of Lulworth Cove is a fine sheet of slab. Unfortunately the top of the slab is capped by a bank of shale and grass, but the right edge gives a top out. Start below the right edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the edge to block belays in the grass at the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 23/08/2014
Route name : Lulled Into
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres left of the right edge of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb straight up the slab to reach a diagonal crack (The Lulworth Skipper). Follow this rightwards to the edge and the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 23/08/2014
Route name : The Lulworth Skipper
Length/grade/stars : 12m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Takes the most prominent diagonal crack in the slab at mid-height. Start below the left end of the crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow the crack rightwards and finish as for JCB Please!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 23/08/2014
Route name : Mirrormere
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of The Lulworth Skipper.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up to the thin break 1 metre above the crack of The Lulworth Skipper and follow this rightwards to finish up JCB Please!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 23/08/2014
Route name : Pepler’s Slab
Length/grade/stars : 10m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
From the top of the approach slabs on the ridge (Pepler’s Point) bounding the east side of the mouth of Lulworth Cove; scramble down to high-tide level. The first feature reached when moving rightwards is a narrow, 5 metres high, clean-cut chimney, about 15 metres right of the ridge. Start 3 metres left of this chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the fine grey slab, then trend leftwards up the slab, between overhangs, to gain the approach slabs.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 23/08/2014
Route name : Frwmp
Length/grade/stars : 12m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 8 metres right of Pepler’s Slab and just right of a shallow groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib and wall to gain the break (Traverse of the Fossils). Step right and pull through a slight bulge to reach a large hollow. Either, scramble left to the approach slabs; or, scramble right to the abseil point for Evening Slab etc. A rope is recommended for both!

Additional info:
Plwmp repeated; grade confirmed, but remove the star!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 27/09/2014
Route name : Surmize
Length/grade/stars : 14m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Conclusion.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Conclusion to below its groove, then step a further 1 metre right to finish rightwards up a pleasant slabby groove.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 27/09/2014
Route name : Deriabar
Length/grade/stars : 40m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for The Rouble on the rock bridge.

Pitch descriptions:

  1. 25m. Traverse right at high-tide level to reach a cave. Belay 8 metres further right at a ragged crack just left of a rib.
  2. 15m. Climb the ragged crack for 4 metres to where the rubbly rock commences. Step right and climb the left side of the rib to the break and move right for a metre or so. Then as for Martinetros, pull through the bulge and trend leftwards to a stance on a small terrace. Belay on spikes and small cams and nuts in a hidden crack just right of the small bulge above. A good little adventure at the grade!

Descent:- Keep roped up and traverse left before descending a ramp to regain the rock bridge.

Additional info:
Martinetros repeated, Suggest upgrade to VD! Martinetros could be accessed via Deriabar, but requires low-tide and calm seas!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 20/10/2014
Route name : How to Make Friends
Length/grade/stars : 17m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Opening Soon at the wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left onto the slab and follow a rising leftwards traverse to finish at the lower-off of My little Buddha. Very pleasant; a few bolts may be clipped along the way, but it is hardly a sport climb!

Additional info:
The lower-offs for A Nugget of Purest Green and The Vertical Thrill are in a 3 metre by 1 metre block which has fractured away from the main mass. This fracturing has also exposed and loosened the lower-off for the next route on the right! Until repairs have been made, avoid these three routes. If you really must do them, lower off from the last bolt runner and clip everything, especially for the second!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 20/10/2014
Route name : Precarious
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Block Access.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull up onto the wall and tiptoe rightwards above the roof to gain better holds at a slight rib. Move up and finish up the slab. Unprotected!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Cave Hole (p 233)
Date of ascent : 25/10/2014
Route name : The Glaive Traverse
Length/grade/stars : 20m S1 F4+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Napper’s Mite.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left along the shelves to below the white-coloured groove. Continue along the break with a short swinging-free section and move up to below a shelly band of rock. Traverse left around a small rib and finish up the ledgy wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Cave Hole (p 233)
Date of ascent : 25/10/2014
Route name : Marmarisk
Length/grade/stars : 14m S2 F4+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the top of The Glaive Traverse.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend The Glaive Traverse to below the shelly band. Move up left slightly, then traverse right to gain a small pedestal on a short arete. Stretch or crimp for the top. High tide required; even then there is little depth of water beneath, there’s a jutting ledge as well!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Cave Hole (p 233)
Date of ascent : 25/10/2014
Route name : Krull
Length/grade/stars : 7m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of Napper’s Mite.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb up rightwards and pull around the right edge of the roof to gain the finishing ledges.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Cave Hole (p 233)
Date of ascent : 27/10/2014
Route name : Pins
Length/grade/stars : 7m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
To the left of the finish of The Glaive Traverse is a short golden wall, rising above a large ledge (awash at high-tide or rough seas!). The wall can be climbed anywhere; but near its right-hand end a thin crack gives a more definite line. Start below this thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the thin crack. Three metres left, the wall via a small bulge gives a good introduction to crimping; Needles (5m Clarke 27.10.14).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Bay of Rainbows Area (p 257)
Date of ascent : 27/10/2014
Route name : Java
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Krakatoa.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Traverse left for 3 metres then move up and leftwards to gain a white ledge. Climb delicately up the right side of the rounded rib above; move slightly left and finish up the short wall on the right. Virtually unprotected!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 28/10/2014
Route name : Scrunch
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Hangingstones.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up and traverse right under the bulge to gain a groove. Up this and the slab above to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 28/10/2014
Route name : Crampanology
Length/grade/stars : 10m S0 F4+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of Corner Climb.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right until a final, cramped move gains the rock bridge.

Additional info:
A descent of Corner Climb actually leads onto the front of the prow-like buttress. To gain the rock bridge it is more convenient to descend a shallow crack (D), in the dark rock on the landward face of the prow-like buttress!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 28/10/2014
Route name : Bats in the Belfry
Length/grade/stars : 28m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Deriabar on the rock bridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow Deriabar to the right edge of the cave, belay here! Move up the edge for a couple of metres, then climb up leftwards on slots to gain a hunched position on the huge block which forms the roof of the cave. Traverse spookily left to gain the descent ramp.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 28/10/2014
Route name : Colcis
Length/grade/stars : 40m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Deriabar on the rock bridge.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow Deriabar to the right edge of the cave, move right for 2 metres to below a white, right-trending ramp (belay advised!). Climb the ramp to the break and follow this rightwards into a steep corner. Make an awkward move rightwards around the rib and pull through the bulge, as for Deriabar. Continuing up; and descending as for that climb.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Butts Quarry Bay (p 232)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2014
Route name : High Swell Running
Length/grade/stars : 10m S3 F3
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the top of Makin’ Bacon.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend the top metre of Makin’ Bacon and traverse a flake leftwards. Hand traverse the main break leftwards for 4 metres or so to a bolt at knee-level. Step up and gain the top; thus avoiding the rapidly-detiorating top out!

Additional info:
The left-hand section of this impressive craglet is rapidly heading seawards! !

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Butts Quarry Bay (p 232)
Date of ascent : 01/11/2014
Route name : Bragging
Length/grade/stars : 7m S1 F5
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Eight Inches on a small ledge below a short corner (clearly seen on p 232!).

Pitch descriptions:
Step up left and climb just right of the edge; following the steeper, white, inset wall to finish.

The Wilsontor, Jobby's leaving Gift and Joe Stole My Route - Topo

The Wilsontor, Jobby’s leaving Gift and Joe Stole My Route – Topo

Submitted by : Joe Doherty
Crag : Cheyne Weares
Date of ascent : 05/12/14
Route name : The Wilsontor
Length/grade/stars : 13m 6b
Climbers : Joe Doherty
Start location: 2 metres to the right of Spiders Crack (Severe). At the end of Neddyfield main cliff.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left hand side of the ledge and then stand on it. Climb up and left into a crack from the ledge. Follow the crack to the roof and make a long reach to the chert band. Hand traverse this to a wider crack and then the top.
Submitted by : Joe Doherty
Crag : Cheyne Weares
Date of ascent : 05/12/14
Route name : Jobby’s Leaving Gift
Length/grade/stars : 8m 5+
Climbers : Michael Dobinson
Start location: 2 metres to the right of Spiders Crack (Severe). At the end of Neddyfield main cliff.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to below the knobbly rock band. Make some hard moves to get established above this to finish more easily at the top.
Submitted by : Joe Doherty
Crag : Cheyne Weares
Date of ascent : 05/12/14
Route name : Joe Stole My Route
Length/grade/stars : 8m 5+
Climbers : Jon Doherty
Start location: 2 metres to the right of Spiders Crack (Severe). At the end of Neddyfield main cliff.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb to the same bolt as “Jobby’s Leaving Gift” then traverese immeditaley right. Attack the Knobbly rock with conviction to easier ground above.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 04/11/2014
Route name : Jugged Hedgehog
Length/grade/stars : 9m S1 F3+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Hangingstones and 3 metres left of Corner Climb at a brown corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right wall of the brown corner and continue up the bulging rib above.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Cave Hole (p 233)
Date of ascent : 05/11/2014
Route name : Guadaloopy
Length/grade/stars : 11m S1 F6a
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Danny Ocean.

Pitch descriptions:
Step up right onto the projecting jug. Move up slightly, then launch rightwards along a line of flat, rough handholds to gain a small ledge. Make a tricky move down right onto a white sloping ledge, before hauling up the edge on the right to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Dungy Head, The House Boulder Area (p 356)
Date of ascent : 05/02/2015
Route name : Barbary Coast
Length/grade/stars : 19m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
One hundred metres west of The House Boulder and below the easternmost pinnacle, another large boulder sits at the water’s edge. The boulder is divided by a large cleft. On its left side it is graced by a slab facing eastwards towards The House Boulder (this slab is clearly seen at the bottom of the topo on p 355!). Start at the right edge of the slab, where a high bucket hold allows access to the slab (mid tide and below!).

Pitch descriptions:
4c Haul up to stand in the bucket hold, move left, then descend leftwards to gain a small haven ledge just above high tide level. Move left again to a sloping ledge, then up leftwards to the edge of the slab. Step right and climb delicately up the slab to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Dungy Head, The House Boulder Area (p 356)
Date of ascent : 05/02/2015
Route name : Out of Land
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Barbary Coast.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow Barbary Coast to the haven ledge. Climb the thin crack slanting crack above and finish up the dark rock on the slab.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Dungy Head, The House Boulder Area (p 356)
Date of ascent : 08/02/2015
Route name : White Water
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Barbary Coast.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull up to stand in the bucket hold and continue up and left to gain and follow the attractive white ramp to the top. A little gem, which after a bold start, offers good holds and protection throughout!

Additional info:
Utilizing the same start, the parallel groove 1 metre left of the white ramp gives Kayak (14m HS 4a Clarke 08/02/15).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth; The House Boulder Area (p 356)
Date of ascent : 20/02/2015
Route name : Bristly Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The west side of the large boulder containing Barbary Coast etc, consists of an impending wall rising above low boulders forming a tiny cove. The cove is reached by scrambling through a gap between the main boulder and an adjacent flat-topped boulder (mid tide and below and calm seas!).

Pitch descriptions:
Stride across the gap and climb the right side of the extreme left edge of the wall on massive holds. Low on technicality and length, but high on atmosphere!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Dungy Head, The House Boulder Area (p 356)
Date of ascent : 07/03/2015
Route name : Aethelflaed
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Bristly Ridge on top of the flat-topped boulder, thread belay.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Step across the gap and move up to large spikes. Follow the lower of two ramp-lines rightwards to gain the edge of the cleft. Follow this to the top. A mini gem!

Additional info:
The name is Anglo-Saxon for Noble Beauty. Also the daughter of King Alfred the Great; perhaps the first English Stateswoman!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth, Intermediate Slabs (p 368)
Date of ascent : 14/04/2015
Route name : Fog Cream
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres right of Jugged Hedgehog at a small ledge on a rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up slightly rightwards via a scoop to reach the break of Corner Climb. Pull up the steep wall on the right on large holds to gain the top.

Submitted by : Michael Porter
Crag : Cave Hole
Date of ascent : 19/07/15
Route name : The Lottie Dog Traverse
Length/grade/stars : 6a+ 2stars S1/2
Climbers : Michael Porter
Start location:
Waterfall Cave (Cave Hole)

Pitch descriptions:
Reverse the last moves of Zombie Nation (7c) and traverse the obvious break leftwards into the cave on jugs, slots and hand jambs, gain the finish on Zen Zero (7c+). Great positions. S1/2.

Additional info:
Depth of water not checked, S grade a guess.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Butts Quarry Bay (p 232)
Date of ascent : 28/08/2015
Route name : Game On
Length/grade/stars : 5m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Makin’ Bacon.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the wall immediately right of the short arête. Take care with the top layer of rock.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Butts Quarry Bay (p 232)
Date of ascent : 28/08/2015
Route name : Slinky Corner
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres right of Makin’ Bacon on a jutting ledge just left of the cave of Trashy’s Traverse, and below and left of a scalloped crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Pull up and leftwards through a small overhang to gain and climb a slim groove. The scalloped crack itself is Curvaceous (6m S 4a Clarke 28.8.15).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Big Easy Area
Date of ascent : 28/08/2015
Route name : Knot’s Landing
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Approach as for Temporary Lifestyle. Descend the ladder and traverse the ledge rightwards (looking in) for 8 metres until it narrows, start here.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up and tiptoe rightwards above the roof and finish just left of the nose. Serious, with poor protection!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Big Easy Area
Date of ascent : 28/08/2015
Route name : Figure of 8
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Approach as for Knot’s Landing to the narrowing of the ledge. Climb down a steep wall to a low tide ledge graced by a small, but perfectly-formed, rock pool shaped like a figure of 8. Start 1 metre right of this feature.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a steep wall and move rightwards into a V-groove capped by a large roof. Tussle up to the roof and follow the shelf leftwards to a finish up the nose.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 28/08/2015
Route name : Fosse Way
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Waterfall Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a rib and make a delicate move left onto a good ledge. Continue up the slabby wall, first right, then left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 30/08/2015
Route name : Reichenbach
Length/grade/stars : 9m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Fosse Way.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Move up and hand traverse right to gain a right-slanting groove. Up this and reach the break above (last gear!). Step left and follow the shallow groove on doubtful holds to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 30/08/2015
Route name : Beetle Drive
Length/grade/stars : 25m S2 F3+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The right flank of the Octopus Weed Cave is ledgy in appearance; but still offers a few interesting excursions commencing from the boulder field to its right. Start from the left extremity of this boulder field.

Pitch descriptions:
Walk left along the obvious ledge until it narrows. Move left around an awkward, bulging section and continue left for 12 metres to gain a small, unusually smooth, flat ledge below a bulge. Pass the bulge on its left side and climb the short wall and groove to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 30/08/2015
Route name : Spaghetti
Length/grade/stars : 18m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Beetle Drive.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow Beetle Drive to within 2 metres of the flat, smooth ledge. Climb up the short black groove and finish up the fine impending wall on the right. Unfortunately this wall is rather too high above a reef for the DWS designation!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Cuttings, East Weares (p 294)
Date of ascent : 01/09/2015
Route name : Op and Pull
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Opposite the main cliff and at sea level are a series of blocks and buttresses in two sections. The left-hand section is a huge block with a slanting overhang at one-third height and contains 5 bolted routes (known as Sunlovers Slab in the Rockfax book!). The right-hand section comprises three buttresses rising from the sea, except at low tide. Start at the left-hand side of the first buttress (counting from the left (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:
4a Boulder hop seawards and pull over the right side of the nose of the buttress. Climb the straightforward groove to the roof and escape leftwards.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Cuttings, East Weares (p 294)
Date of ascent : 01/09/2015
Route name : Armchair Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the left-hand side of the third buttress (counting from the left), on a boulder at a tiny inlet (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Bridge across and move awkwardly rightwards before pulling up onto a scooped ledge. Finish up the ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Cuttings, East Weares (p 294)
Date of ascent : 01/09/2015
Route name : Skimming
Length/grade/stars : 16m S0 F4
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the right-hand side of the third buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull across left and traverse leftwards across the ledgy wall to its end. Drop down and continue the traverse to below a greasy V-groove. Step around left and bridge acrooss onto the large sloping boulder to finish.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 04/09/2015
Route name : Potential Energy
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Waterfall Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Move up into a recess and make a tricky move onto a ledge on the right. Gain the ledge above and finish up the wall.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 04/09/2015
Route name : Jibe
Length/grade/stars : 6m S0 F4
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start by scrambling down from just north of the crane to a black groove (Spaghetti) on the left (looking out). Descend the black groove to within 1 metre of the sea (high tide!). Start 1 metre right where the roof begins.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through the left end of the roof and move right to easier ground.

Additional info:
This is the best approach at high tide as the Beetle Drive traverse quickly becomes sea-washed!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 04/09/2015
Route name : Footplate
Length/grade/stars : 6m S0 F4+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Approach as for Jibe but move right for 3 metres to a standing position on a projecting black ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull directly through the roof via the eponymous foothold to easier ground.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 04/09/2015
Route name : Ornery Enough
Length/grade/stars : 6m S0 F4
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Approach as for Footplate to the projecting black ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right for 1 metre and pull through the weakness in the roof.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Octopus Weed Area (p 241)
Date of ascent : 04/09/2015
Route name : Torah Bright
Length/grade/stars : 7m S0 F4
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Approach as for the Beetle Drive traverse to just beyond the awkward, bulging section and below a cave.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up to the cave, search for undercuts, and gain the handrail above. Swing right to the nose and haul over.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Dungy Head, The House Boulder Area (p 356)
Date of ascent : 17/09/2015
Route name : Gopuram
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start on the west side of the boulder containing White Water etc in the tiny cove and below the large cleft (low tide required!).

Pitch descriptions:
Swing into the cleft from the left, move inwards for 1 metre and shuffle upwards; before moving left onto the sharp ridge. Finish up this as for Aethelflaed.

Additional info:
The name: a gateway to a Hindu temple!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth, Arthur’s Mount (p 370)
Date of ascent : 17/09/2015
Route name : Terror Nova
Length/grade/stars : 18m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Haven Ordinary.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the newly-formed white corner, step left and move up, passing the left end of the bulge. Climb rightwards and up to gain The Haven, covering much the same ground as Haven Ordinary.

Additional info:
Warmer repeated: upgrade to S due to a small rockfall!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lunar Park (p 72)
Date of ascent : 19/09/2015
Route name : Moonshell
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Lunar Tick on a black boulder in a gap.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the edge above, without assistance from the shelf on the left.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lunar Park (p 72)
Date of ascent : 19/09/2015
Route name : Dark Landing
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Seven metres left (looking out) of Clair de Lune a ramp system slants across a black wall above an appalling landing.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb rightwards up the ramp system to the top. Serious and unprotected!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lunar Park (p 72)
Date of ascent : 19/09/2015
Route name : Pocket-Fest
Length/grade/stars : 7m S1 F4
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twelve metres right (lookin out) of Sea of Tranquillity, a tiny wall juts out at right angles above a narrow sea channel.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the wall awkwardly and traverse the pockets out leftwards until the top becomes irresistible.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p75)
Date of ascent : 19/09/2015
Route name : Sparkler
Length/grade/stars : 9m F3+ 4B
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Diamond Solitaire.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up, step left for a metre and follow the slightly balder, lighter-coloured slab left of the bolts.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p75)
Date of ascent : 19/09/2015
Route name : Black Froth
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Solostice.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Stride across left and climb the dark wall to better holds at 4 metres; continue to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p75)
Date of ascent : 19/09/2015
Route name : Ta for the Pocket
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 10 metres around and right of Portland Snowshine at the gully defining the extent of the boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Clamber onto the large block and using the only available pocket gain a standing position in the shallow white scoop to the left. Step right and continue rightwards up the slab to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 09/10/2015
Route name : Diffraction
Length/grade/stars : >9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Retraction.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull over the bulge as for Retraction and move up leftwards. Climb through the overlap via the thin flake and continue to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 09/10/2015
Route name : Swing Something Simple
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Sunday Swing.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Graunch through the bulge and continue direct via a faint nose. Deviations are possible to clip the bolts!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 09/10/2015
Route name : Crunch Time
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Block Access.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Pull through the bulge as for Block Access and climb the snappy wall up leftwards.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 09/10/2015
Route name : Dragnet
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
To the right (looking out) of the large boulder containing Block Access etc, and just right of the down-climb for that boulder, a gully leads down seawards. To the right (looking out) of the gully is a slabby wall containing a shallow, left-slanting groove. Start just right of this groove on an adjacent boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left into the groove and follow it.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 09/10/2015
Route name : Slip Through
Length/grade/stars : 6m S0 F3+
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres left of Dragnet at the most seaward boulder, gained by a tight squeeze.

Pitch descriptions:
Step across onto a sloping ledge below a left-trending groove and climb it.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 11/10/2015
Route name : M Route
Length/grade/stars : 15m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location: Start 1 metre right of Dragnet. Interesting climbing, taking in three boulders!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the scooped wall, then the next boulder at its right end. Descend and stride across to the final boulder and follow the flowstone ramp diagonally rightwards to the top. Positive holds, but serious!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 11/10/2015
Route name : Gin Jar Slab
Length/grade/stars : 7m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Forty metres right (looking in) of The Vertical Thrill, and roughly halfway towards The Fallen Block, recent boulder toppling by the sea has exposed a brown s-facing slab. Start on a rounded boulder below the centre of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab to the apex.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 11/10/2015
Route name : Rummy
Length/grade/stars : 7m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 3 metres right of Gin Jar Slab and just right of the slab edge.

Pitch descriptions:
Swing leftwards onto the slab and trend leftwards up it.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 11/10/2015
Route name : S Arête
Length/grade/stars : 6m D
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Eight metres left (looking out) of Rummy is a steep arête, start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Start steeply and follow the gentler left side to the top.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 11/10/2015
Route name : Iron Oxide
Length/grade/stars : 10m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Three metres left (looking in) of S Arête a white slab slants leftwards,start at its right end.

Pitch descriptions:
Meander leftwards across the white slab above the roof.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : The Triple Boulders Area (p 75)
Date of ascent : 11/10/2015
Route name : Phinnessee
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Twelve metres right (looking in) of Iron Oxide is a square-cut wall. Start towards the left side of the wall on a boulder below a shallow groove.

Pitch descriptions:
5b Make hard moves up into the shallow groove and follow it. The grooved rib at the right end of the wall is gained via the boulder Aquanautical (6m VD Clarke 11.10.15).

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 12/10/2015
Route name : Cream Topping
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 14 metres left of Pepler’s Slab, just around the ridge at a cosy niche.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left-slanting groove and the darker, steeper groove above; finishing directly over the white capping bulge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 12/10/2015
Route name : Cavell
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Cream Topping.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the grooves directly above, keeping just left of the ridge.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 12/10/2015
Route name : All the Tea in China
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Pepler’s Slab.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the seam in the slab and pull through the left side of the roof via the flakes. Shaky rock in its upper reaches!

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 12/10/2015
Route name : Clwmp
Length/grade/stars : 11m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres below and right of Pepler’s Slab below the right-bounding rib of the clean-cut chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the grooves in the right side of the rib to a ledge. Make a tricky move up the rib on the right and continue into the hollow at the top of Frwmp and descend as for that climb.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Lulworth East (p 372)
Date of ascent : 12/10/2015
Route name : Chwmney
Length/grade/stars : 12m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Frwmp at a slanting chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the chimney with increasing difficulty to the break-line (Traverse of the Fossils). Pull over the bulge into the large hollow as for Frwmp.

Additional info:
To clarify the access to this delightful area. The approach slabs rises from the beach at the eastern side of Lulworth Cove and can only be accessed at mod tide and below! At high tide, the crumbling upper cliff prohibits direct access! Approach may be made from the abseil stake of Evening Slab etc; but involves a 50 metre loose traverse leftwards (looking in) across exposed ramps, to gain the top of the approach slabs. Rope strongly advised!

The Blacknor Cliffs > Blacknor North

Route Comment: To Hard For Matt Ilott

01-Jan-1970, Stuart Thompson
Blacknor North. It’s a bit tardy, but I’ve finally got around to this! Just past/right of ‘Absolute Beginners’ is a bolted groove line. In the latest Rockfax it’s called ‘No Name Corner’ 3+, first ascent unknown. It was climbed by myself, Stuart Thompson and seconded by Matthew Ilott on the 8th July 2005. (I’m not sure where ‘Black Spot’ is situated in respect of the above route? In the current CC Portland guide the route Black Spot is situated to the right of Absolute Beginners but is described as a ‘trad’ route, VS 4b, which suggests it’s a different route, (based on a crack)? The guide book team suggest that you should “Walk on by…”, not a bad name for a poor route! However given the effort required to equip the route, (it was my first attempt at the time), and Matt’s final insistence, after all these years that I write it up, please accept this submission.

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