New Routes – Pembroke Range West

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Additional Pembroke Range West routes submitted by Barry Clarke

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Submitted by : Dave WrightArea : Pembroke – Range West
Crag : Flimston
Date of ascent : 10/10/99
Route Name : Chicane
Length/grade/stars : 200ft, E1, *
Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden
Start location:
Between It’s a Fair Cop and Speed Trap

Pitch descriptions:
Finds the easiest route up this section of cliff in three contrasting pitches. Committing (on an incoming tide) and loose at the top.
1. 80ft 5a As It’s a Fair Cop, taking stance as soon as roof is passed.
2. 60ft 5a Traverse right across the slab, step right, gain the obvious layback crack above on the left, then more easily right, scrunching to gain a ledge with good Friend anchors.
3. 60ft 5a The groove above leads to hanging blocks, trending slightly rightwards to more loose blocks, but good anchors at the top.

Submitted by : Dave Linnett
Area : Pembroke – Range West
Crag : Mount Sion East: 40-Foot Wall
Date of ascent : 03.07.10
Route name : Pussy Galore
Length/grade/stars : 12m, Severe 4a, *
Climbers : Dave Linnett, Rob Horler
Start location:
The slabby right wall between the corner of Pussy Chap (S) and the arête of Route Galore (HS).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the slabby wall direct (micros useful) to a ledge. Finish up the continuation wallAdditional info:
On-sight lead

Submitted by : Ken Mc Bride << Comment
Area : Pembroke – Range West
Crag : Linney point
Date of ascent : 6/4/2013
Route name : Flake Shake
Length/grade/stars : Length as per guide book. E1 5a, 1
Climbers : Ken Mc Bride
Start location:
as per guide book

Pitch descriptions:
As per Guide book, E1 5a, Description as per guide book

Additional info:
Hello, was flicking through the new range west guide book and noticed that Flake Shake has double daggers. Alison, my wife, and me climbed it on 6th April after attending the briefing. I chose it from the old guide book and hence knew nothing of the rock fall of which there is no obvious scarring. I assume that part of the flake has gone. The climb was good to the flake and well worth the star it had. The flake is very hollow sounding at its base and I didn’t feel too happy to stick anything behind it or lay too hard on it whilst climbing the first couple of metres. There is a small cam placement, poss 0 or 0.5 wild country out left just before the flake. After that there was nothing till near the top of the flake where the flake became more ” solid ” sounding and may take a piece behind it. I didn’t feel too happy about testing a cam or such there. The next bit I placed was in the vertical crack at the top the flake, before mantling onto the top of the flake. Feel the adjectival is the same but the nature of the flake meant I ended up a good a good 3-4 metres above my last piece. A good climb but would only recommend it to somebody I know would have a good look at the flake and not just crank on it. Was an onsight for me so it may be slightly better than I felt at the time. It is an intimidating corner as you ab down it. Good day out though. Hope this was of help. If this was the wrong page to stick it on please advise for the future. All the best Ken

Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Area : Pembroke – Range West
Crag : Western Walls
Date of ascent : 20 August 2013
Route name : Black Hawk Left
Length/grade/stars : 30m, V Diff
Climbers : Philip Biglands
Start location:
Start as for Christmas Quiche / Marquee de Sade.

Pitch descriptions:
From the top of pitch 1 of Christmas Quiche / Marquee de Sade, follow a crackline leftwards to the top. A line perhaps made possible by the rockfall mentioned in the guide in this vicinity.Additional info:
soloed

Submitted by : David Wilkinson
Area : Pembroke – Range West
Crag : Arch Zawn, Iron Age Fort
Date of ascent : 25.05.2013
Route name : The Wilkinson Ultimatum
Length/grade/stars : 18metres, Hard Severe 4b, 0 stars
Climbers : FA M Gutteridge, T Jemmett
Start location:
Start 5m left of Arch Crack

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the curving crack to a roof, step right and climb through the bulge. Continue straight up, easing towards the top.

Submitted by : D Wilkinson
Area : Pembroke – Range West
Crag : Berry Slade, UXB buttress
Date of ascent : 12/09/2013
Route name : Littel Bang Theory
Length/grade/stars : 18 metres, SevereHS 4b, stars:0
Climbers : C Umarova, D Wilkinson, G Oliver.
Start location:
Scrambling approach as for existing routes hereabouts A piece of unexploded ordnance still lies at the left side of the cave left of Danger UXB. Start here, where a shallow chimney slants up leftwards.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a scoop towards the chimney proper, then trend easily rightwards to a short left-facing corner. Climb this with difficulty, then climb easily rightwards to finish on a slope of unstable blocks. Belay well back.

Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Crag : Bulliber
Date of ascent : 18/04/14
Route name : Birthday Suite
Length/grade/stars : HS 4a
Climbers : N Barry solo
Start location:
As Chimney Sweep

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the Corner

Additional info:
The bottom of Climbed Topless has fallen down, the resulting route is now Birthday Suite. Chimney Sweep is also a bit more open.

Submitted by : Steve Quinton
Crag : Arch Zawn
Date of ascent : 26/05/14
Route name : Strongbow
Length/grade/stars : 28m E2 5c **
Climbers : Steve Quinton, Robin Neath
Start location:
As for Crossbow, (not high tide)

Pitch descriptions:
Climb direct up the steep wall right of the arête of Crossbow.

Submitted by : Gareth James
Crag : Funlands Crater
Date of ascent : 01/06/14
Route name : Inadvertent Conclusion
Length/grade/stars : 30m, HVS 4c, 1 star
Climbers : G. James, R. Evans
Start location:
As for New Beginnings

Pitch descriptions:
Climb New Beginnings to the bulge. Attack this much further to the right than the parent route, with an obvious thread to show the way. Trend rightwards up the slab to join the crack of Beam Me Home Scotty.

Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Crag : Grey Slab, Funlands
Date of ascent : 11/08/15
Route name : All the Ships at Sea
Length/grade/stars : 22m HS
Climbers : Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands
Start location:
Start at the right side of the ledge just right of Takeover Bid.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb dircetly up the slab to the large groove on the right side of the prow.
Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Crag : Grey Slab, Funlands
Date of ascent : 14/08/15
Route name : Sealed with a Key
Length/grade/stars : 22m VD
Climbers : Peter Biglands, Philip Biglands
Start location:
Start about 3m left of No Pain without Gain, or start on the ledge as for No Pain… and traverse across.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb cracks past the right edge of a steepening and finish up the centre of the slab above.
Submitted by : Philip Biglands
Crag : Funlands, Grey Slab
Date of ascent : 26/09/2015
Route name : The Seventh Seal
Length/grade/stars : 19m VS 4b
Climbers : Philip Biglands, Elizabeth Hewitt
Start location:
Start about 2m right of Benny’s Right-Hand Finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a yellow pocketed wall to a junction with Benny’s… Go up, move right to a scoop, and pass the right side of a block to finish up a flake to the left of the ramp on Zantac.

Additional info:
Poorly protected start.

Submitted by: David Wilkinson
Crag: Wind Bay, North Face

Wind of Change

Date of ascent: 18/10/09
Length/grade/stars: 22m HVS 4c
Climbers: D Wilkinson, M Jones

Start location:

Right of Mistral, the north face of Wind Bay has two caves. The following route starts below the right hand one. Reached by abseil from nuts/blocks, as for Mistral, Sore Bum, etc.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a steep little corner, then the easier continuation. Make a long traverse left below the roof, and an exposed and unprotected move round an arête, then finish up a corner on dubious rock. Care needed to reduce rope drag.

Submitted by: David Wilkinson
Crag: Iron Age Fort
Date of ascent: 23/05/2015
Climbers: D Wilkinson, G Oliver

More Friends than a Quaker Meeting House

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS 4b

Start location:

Right of Coprolitious Rib is a prominent cave/gully

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the chimney forming the outside of the cave, and continue up grooves.

Additional info:

Often damp, but a good route when dry.

Ferguson

Length/grade/stars: 22m S

Start location:

Just left of Tractor Jam

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the corner.

Climbers: G Oliver, D Wilkinson

Massey

Length/grade/stars: 23m HS 4b

Start location:

2m left of Ferguson

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a crack, continue just left of a square-cut feature, and move back right to finish.

Date of ascent: 23/07/2016
Climbers: B Davison, D Wilkinson

Jubilee Clip

Length/grade/stars: 22m E1 5a

Start location:

The next buttress right of Wall to Wall Jubilee has a sloping platform at the base of its seaward face (left of Iron Age Thoughts). Best approached from Tractor Zawn, at low tide. Start from the right end of this platform.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the seaward face of the buttress, just left of its right arête.

Circlip

Length/grade/stars: 22m HVS 5a

Start location:

As for Jubilee Clip

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse right to gain an obvious crack, and climb this, passing perched blocks with care.

Climbers: B Davison, N Loydon

The Wilkinson Identity

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS 4c

Start location:

Start 2m left of The Wilkinson Ultimatum.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the wall below a slanting groove to an overhang. Surmount this and climb to the top.

Submitted by: David Wilkinson
Crag: Bulliber Bay

I Can’t Get No Stratafaction

Date of ascent: 24/05/2015
Length/grade/stars: 33m VS
Climbers: G Oliver, D Wilkinson (AL)

Start location:

Below the huge roof of Strata Sphere is a big ledge level with the traverse of Nimbus. Two prominent grooves rise from here, the right-hand one being taken by Strata Sphere. Start below the left-hand groove.

Pitch descriptions:

  1. 12m 4a Climb the left-hand groove then trend left to belay on top of a jutting block.
  2. 21m 4b Traverse left, climb up steeply, then move left to finish as for Stratus Fear.
Submitted by: David Wilkinson
Crag: Mount Sion East
Date of ascent: 25/05/2015
Climbers: D Wilkinson, G Oliver

Everything Stays

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Below the corner at the left end of the Abseil Hole Area. Cam belays just left of the corner.

Pitch descriptions:

From the foot of the corner, climb rightwards to the arête and finish up this.

Additional info:

See Nothing Lasts.

Climbers: G Oliver, D Wilkinson

Nothing Lasts

Length/grade/stars: 15m HVS 5a

Start location:

As for Everything Stays

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the smooth yellow corner.

Additional info:

At the extreme west end of the Abseil Hole area, the VD route Anything Goes is given a very vague description, and appears to have suffered a rockfall, leaving the corner with smooth yellow rock. The routes Everything Stays and Nothing Lasts start here, and probably have some ground in common with Anything Goes.

Submitted by: Philip Biglands
Crag: Arch Zawn

Ledges Awash

Date of ascent: 08/08/2016
Length/grade/stars: 17m HS 4a
Climbers: Philip Biglands

Start location:

Start as for Olympic Escape Route.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a bulging crack just to the right of Olympic Escape Route.

Submitted by: David Wilkinson
Crag: Iron Age Fort, Tractor Zawn
Date of ascent: 28/05/17
Climbers: G Oliver, D Wilkinson

Off the Beaten Track

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS 4c

Start location:

Down and left of Iron Age Thoughts.(p 178)

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the prominent gully.

Additional info:

Done in damp conditions (probably quite common), so may be a bit easier if dry. Visible in the photo on p 178.

Climbers: D Wilkinson, G Oliver

On the Right Track

Length/grade/stars: 25m S 4a

Start location:

Start a few metres left of Jubilee Clip, at the left end of this platform.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse easily left to a prominent gully, which has two chimney lines separated by a rib. Climb the right hand chimney pleasantly, finishing rightwards.

Submitted by: Philip Biglands
Crag: Mount Sion East – 40 Foot Wall

Mr Preview

Date of ascent: 07/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 12m HS 4a
Climbers: Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands

Start location:

Start at the left side of the recess at the base of Amadeus.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up the crack, then trend left to a vague right facing groove. This is a line just left of the routes in the 2013 guide but visible on the topo on p295.

Additional info:

Prelude appears to be the line finishing 1-2m right up a crackline just left of Amadeus, and Wolfgang the line finishing 1-2m right of Amadeus up a vague left facing groove, with the starts on the terrace just below where the start of Amadeus is marked on the topo.

Submitted by: Philip Biglands
Crag: Bulliber

Ambush

Date of ascent: 31/07/2017
Length/grade/stars: 35m E1 5a
Climbers: Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands

Start location:

Start about 6-7m right of The Hornting on the large (non tidal?) terrace at a quartz nose.

Pitch descriptions:

Go up to a large overhang and traverse left below it crossing a corner (possible belay and about VS 4c to here). Climb up right to within 3-4 m of the capping overhangs and traverse 10m right along a slab to outflank the overhangs. Move back up left to belay. The rock on the top half is brittle and protection is spaced.

Submitted by: David Williams
Crag: Tractor Zawn

Climbing for Two

Date of ascent: 28/05/17
Length/grade/stars: 22m HS 4a
Climbers: David Williams, Kay Armitage.pregnant!

Start location:

Start 1.5 mtrs left of the great tractor rally.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb straight up passing overlap at 5 mtrs and trend right at top to miss poor ground and finish just left of great tractor rally.

Bulliber > Long Stack Area > Long Stack East

Afternoon Tea in Simon’s Field

18m D
28-May-2018, D Wilkinson, G Oliver
Climb cracks in the slab between Lunch at the St Govan’s and Dinner at the Old Point (Angle) Route length: The guide book records all nearby routes as being 14m long. We climbed using a single 50m rope doubled, giving 25m. At the top, there was little rope left, certainly nowhere near 11 metres. 18 metres was our estimate for all routes in this locality.

Bulliber > Bulliber Centre

Wet-Suit

6m S
28-May-2018, Phil Biglands
Start as for Brownshoes and go up the left side of the arête of Brahn Boots.

Berry Slade

Ripper

20m S
10-Aug-2018, Phil Biglands, Peter Biglands, Claire Biglands
The chimney just left of Dummkopf. Climb up the right wall of a cleft, pass the huge jammed flake on its right and continue up the chimney.

Berry Slade > Small Buttress Bay

Cawl Power

20m VS 4c
10-Aug-2018, Phil Biglands, Peter Biglands, Claire Biglands
Start just right of No Drama Today. Climb up a slab to the large overhang. Follow twin cracks over this on large holds and finish up the left arete of the hanging slab. Ripper is just to the right.

Iron Age Fort > Arch Zawn

Sea Lion

24m E2 5b
22-Aug-2018, Phil Biglands
The crackline which crosses Crack of Dusk, starting just to its left and finishing just to its right.

Iron Age Fort > Arch Zawn

Longbow

25m E2 5b ☆☆
25-Aug-2018, Graham Desroy, Kat Dunbar
Takes the steep wall between Crossbow and Crack of Dusk. Start up the crack to the left of Crack of Dusk (as for Sea Lion), moving left at 5m and climb direct up the steep wall to the big ledge. Finish up the short corner as for for Crossbow and Crack of Dusk.

Iron Age Fort > Full Tilt Wall

Medallion Men

21m E4 6a ☆
07-Oct-2018, Stephen Quinton, Justin Lowman
Start 2 metres left of Bronze Medallion and climb up leftwards (3-4 threads, not in situ). Arrange wires above the bubbly rock then make hard moves up a short compact wall to gain a good break. Continue up to finish up a short flake/groove stepping right at the top.

Western Walls > Gem Wall

Splashdown

30m VS 4c
19-Apr-2019, Phil Biglands, Bex Gibson, Peter Biglands
A rockfall appears to have destroyed most of Loitering Within Tent, Quasar Intellectual and Barry Clarke’s route Aeon Flux (not in the guide) leaving a smooth slab. Start up the thin corner of Loitering… past the base of the rockfall scar to a ledge at 10m. Climb up the centre of the scar and trend right up thin cracks to a right facing corner and easier ground.

Pen y Holt Bay > Pen y Holt Stack

Survival of the Wettest

25m HS 4a
05-Aug-2019, Phil Biglands, Bex Gibson
Scramble up the seaward side of the stack to a ledge below an overhang just right of Where’s the Ferryman. From the right side of this ledge follow a series of ledges trending right to finish up the last 7m or so of Pen y Holt Crack. Perhaps the easiest way up the stack.

Western Walls > Christmas Chasm Wall

Seal Wall

30m VS 4b
12-Aug-2019, Phil Biglands, Peter Biglands
Climb the corner just to the left of A Dog’s Life to a capping roof. Move awkwardly right onto a ledge and continue up the headwall to join Christmas Quiche/Marquis de Sade near the top. Just left the starts of Christmas Quiche/Marquis de Sade and A Conflict in Terns have collapsed leaving an overhang at 8-10m.

Strata Walls > South Zawn

Dodging Bullets

30m E2 5b ☆
24-Jun-2023, Nick Matthews & Darrell Morgan
Start as for Deviant. An exciting climb that ascends the steep face right of the sea cave. Climb up an obvious corner and onto the easy angled ramp. Ascend the ramp to pull up onto the steep wall. Climb the steep wall on positive holds until an obvious prow is reached. Pull out left to an exposed position on the arête of the prow. Make an awkward move to gain a ledge and finish up the final corner above.

Additional Pembroke Range West routes submitted by Barry Clarke