Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.
Additional Pembroke Range West routes submitted by Barry Clarke
Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Dave WrightArea : Pembroke – Range West Crag : Flimston Date of ascent : 10/10/99 Route Name : Chicane Length/grade/stars : 200ft, E1, * Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden Start location: Between It’s a Fair Cop and Speed Trap Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : Dave Linnett Area : Pembroke – Range West Crag : Mount Sion East: 40-Foot Wall Date of ascent : 03.07.10 Route name : Pussy Galore Length/grade/stars : 12m, Severe 4a, * Climbers : Dave Linnett, Rob Horler Start location: The slabby right wall between the corner of Pussy Chap (S) and the arête of Route Galore (HS). Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : Ken Mc Bride << Comment Area : Pembroke – Range West Crag : Linney point Date of ascent : 6/4/2013 Route name : Flake Shake Length/grade/stars : Length as per guide book. E1 5a, 1 Climbers : Ken Mc Bride Start location: as per guide book Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
Submitted by : Philip Biglands Area : Pembroke – Range West Crag : Western Walls Date of ascent : 20 August 2013 Route name : Black Hawk Left Length/grade/stars : 30m, V Diff Climbers : Philip Biglands Start location: Start as for Christmas Quiche / Marquee de Sade. Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : David Wilkinson Area : Pembroke – Range West Crag : Arch Zawn, Iron Age Fort Date of ascent : 25.05.2013 Route name : The Wilkinson Ultimatum Length/grade/stars : 18metres, Hard Severe 4b, 0 stars Climbers : FA M Gutteridge, T Jemmett Start location: Start 5m left of Arch Crack Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : D Wilkinson Area : Pembroke – Range West Crag : Berry Slade, UXB buttress Date of ascent : 12/09/2013 Route name : Littel Bang Theory Length/grade/stars : 18 metres, SevereHS 4b, stars:0 Climbers : C Umarova, D Wilkinson, G Oliver. Start location: Scrambling approach as for existing routes hereabouts A piece of unexploded ordnance still lies at the left side of the cave left of Danger UXB. Start here, where a shallow chimney slants up leftwards. Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : Nigel Barry Crag : Bulliber Date of ascent : 18/04/14 Route name : Birthday Suite Length/grade/stars : HS 4a Climbers : N Barry solo Start location: As Chimney Sweep Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
Submitted by : Steve Quinton Crag : Arch Zawn Date of ascent : 26/05/14 Route name : Strongbow Length/grade/stars : 28m E2 5c ** Climbers : Steve Quinton, Robin Neath Start location: As for Crossbow, (not high tide) Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : Gareth James Crag : Funlands Crater Date of ascent : 01/06/14 Route name : Inadvertent Conclusion Length/grade/stars : 30m, HVS 4c, 1 star Climbers : G. James, R. Evans Start location: As for New Beginnings Pitch descriptions: |
Submitted by : Philip Biglands Crag : Grey Slab, Funlands Date of ascent : 11/08/15 Route name : All the Ships at Sea Length/grade/stars : 22m HS Climbers : Philip Biglands, Peter Biglands Start location: Start at the right side of the ledge just right of Takeover Bid. Pitch descriptions: Climb dircetly up the slab to the large groove on the right side of the prow. |
Submitted by : Philip Biglands Crag : Grey Slab, Funlands Date of ascent : 14/08/15 Route name : Sealed with a Key Length/grade/stars : 22m VD Climbers : Peter Biglands, Philip Biglands Start location: Start about 3m left of No Pain without Gain, or start on the ledge as for No Pain… and traverse across. Pitch descriptions: Climb cracks past the right edge of a steepening and finish up the centre of the slab above. |
Submitted by : Philip Biglands Crag : Funlands, Grey Slab Date of ascent : 26/09/2015 Route name : The Seventh Seal Length/grade/stars : 19m VS 4b Climbers : Philip Biglands, Elizabeth Hewitt Start location: Start about 2m right of Benny’s Right-Hand Finish. Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
Submitted by: David Wilkinson Crag: Wind Bay, North Face Wind of ChangeDate of ascent: 18/10/09 Start location:Right of Mistral, the north face of Wind Bay has two caves. The following route starts below the right hand one. Reached by abseil from nuts/blocks, as for Mistral, Sore Bum, etc. Pitch descriptions:Climb a steep little corner, then the easier continuation. Make a long traverse left below the roof, and an exposed and unprotected move round an arête, then finish up a corner on dubious rock. Care needed to reduce rope drag. |
Submitted by: David Wilkinson Crag: Iron Age Fort Date of ascent: 23/05/2015 Climbers: D Wilkinson, G Oliver More Friends than a Quaker Meeting HouseLength/grade/stars: 25m VS 4b Start location:Right of Coprolitious Rib is a prominent cave/gully Pitch descriptions:Climb the chimney forming the outside of the cave, and continue up grooves. Additional info:Often damp, but a good route when dry. FergusonLength/grade/stars: 22m S Start location:Just left of Tractor Jam Pitch descriptions:Climb the corner. Climbers: G Oliver, D Wilkinson MasseyLength/grade/stars: 23m HS 4b Start location:2m left of Ferguson Pitch descriptions:Climb a crack, continue just left of a square-cut feature, and move back right to finish. Date of ascent: 23/07/2016 Jubilee ClipLength/grade/stars: 22m E1 5a Start location:The next buttress right of Wall to Wall Jubilee has a sloping platform at the base of its seaward face (left of Iron Age Thoughts). Best approached from Tractor Zawn, at low tide. Start from the right end of this platform. Pitch descriptions:Climb the seaward face of the buttress, just left of its right arête. CirclipLength/grade/stars: 22m HVS 5a Start location:As for Jubilee Clip Pitch descriptions:Traverse right to gain an obvious crack, and climb this, passing perched blocks with care. Climbers: B Davison, N Loydon The Wilkinson IdentityLength/grade/stars: 15m VS 4c Start location:Start 2m left of The Wilkinson Ultimatum. Pitch descriptions:Climb the wall below a slanting groove to an overhang. Surmount this and climb to the top. |
Submitted by: David Wilkinson Crag: Bulliber Bay I Can’t Get No StratafactionDate of ascent: 24/05/2015 Start location:Below the huge roof of Strata Sphere is a big ledge level with the traverse of Nimbus. Two prominent grooves rise from here, the right-hand one being taken by Strata Sphere. Start below the left-hand groove. Pitch descriptions:
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Submitted by: David Wilkinson Crag: Mount Sion East Date of ascent: 25/05/2015 Climbers: D Wilkinson, G Oliver Everything StaysLength/grade/stars: 15m S Start location:Below the corner at the left end of the Abseil Hole Area. Cam belays just left of the corner. Pitch descriptions:From the foot of the corner, climb rightwards to the arête and finish up this. Additional info:See Nothing Lasts. Climbers: G Oliver, D Wilkinson Nothing LastsLength/grade/stars: 15m HVS 5a Start location:As for Everything Stays Pitch descriptions:Climb the smooth yellow corner. Additional info:At the extreme west end of the Abseil Hole area, the VD route Anything Goes is given a very vague description, and appears to have suffered a rockfall, leaving the corner with smooth yellow rock. The routes Everything Stays and Nothing Lasts start here, and probably have some ground in common with Anything Goes. |
Submitted by: Philip Biglands Crag: Arch Zawn Ledges AwashDate of ascent: 08/08/2016 Start location:Start as for Olympic Escape Route. Pitch descriptions:Climb a bulging crack just to the right of Olympic Escape Route. |
Submitted by: David Wilkinson Crag: Iron Age Fort, Tractor Zawn Date of ascent: 28/05/17 Climbers: G Oliver, D Wilkinson Off the Beaten TrackLength/grade/stars: 25m VS 4c Start location:Down and left of Iron Age Thoughts.(p 178) Pitch descriptions:Climb the prominent gully. Additional info:Done in damp conditions (probably quite common), so may be a bit easier if dry. Visible in the photo on p 178. Climbers: D Wilkinson, G Oliver On the Right TrackLength/grade/stars: 25m S 4a Start location:Start a few metres left of Jubilee Clip, at the left end of this platform. Pitch descriptions:Traverse easily left to a prominent gully, which has two chimney lines separated by a rib. Climb the right hand chimney pleasantly, finishing rightwards. |
Submitted by: Philip Biglands Crag: Mount Sion East – 40 Foot Wall Mr PreviewDate of ascent: 07/08/2017 Start location:Start at the left side of the recess at the base of Amadeus. Pitch descriptions:Climb up the crack, then trend left to a vague right facing groove. This is a line just left of the routes in the 2013 guide but visible on the topo on p295. Additional info:Prelude appears to be the line finishing 1-2m right up a crackline just left of Amadeus, and Wolfgang the line finishing 1-2m right of Amadeus up a vague left facing groove, with the starts on the terrace just below where the start of Amadeus is marked on the topo. |
Submitted by: Philip Biglands Crag: Bulliber AmbushDate of ascent: 31/07/2017 Start location:Start about 6-7m right of The Hornting on the large (non tidal?) terrace at a quartz nose. Pitch descriptions:Go up to a large overhang and traverse left below it crossing a corner (possible belay and about VS 4c to here). Climb up right to within 3-4 m of the capping overhangs and traverse 10m right along a slab to outflank the overhangs. Move back up left to belay. The rock on the top half is brittle and protection is spaced. |
Submitted by: David Williams Crag: Tractor Zawn Climbing for TwoDate of ascent: 28/05/17 Start location:Start 1.5 mtrs left of the great tractor rally. Pitch descriptions:Climb straight up passing overlap at 5 mtrs and trend right at top to miss poor ground and finish just left of great tractor rally. |
Bulliber > Long Stack Area > Long Stack EastAfternoon Tea in Simon’s Field18m D |
Bulliber > Bulliber CentreWet-Suit6m S |
Berry SladeRipper20m S |
Berry Slade > Small Buttress BayCawl Power20m VS 4c |
Iron Age Fort > Arch ZawnSea Lion24m E2 5b |
Iron Age Fort > Arch ZawnLongbow25m E2 5b ☆☆ |
Iron Age Fort > Full Tilt WallMedallion Men21m E4 6a ☆ |
Western Walls > Gem WallSplashdown30m VS 4c |
Pen y Holt Bay > Pen y Holt StackSurvival of the Wettest25m HS 4a |
Western Walls > Christmas Chasm WallSeal Wall30m VS 4b |
Strata Walls > South ZawnDodging Bullets30m E2 5b ☆ |