New Routes – Pembroke Range East Vol. 4 (Barry Clarke)

Pitch descriptions:
4a Cross the chimney and follow the white groove past a small bulge to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Cross the chimney and move right to the arête. Climb this and the steeper wall above.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the initially straightforward traverse of Uncovered Rock for 5 metres; before pulling up onto a brown crinkly slab. Step left and follow the black-marked ramp up leftwards to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb up left, then pull up right into a recess. Trend leftwards and finish up a shallow corner; all rather painful!

Pitch descriptions:
Step up right onto a shelf, and make a fierce pull over the bulge. Easier, short walls lead to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Bridge up, then step left along the shelf to finish up the straightforward ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the groove with interest, to a ledge just below the top. Ignoring the two leaning corners above; traverse out left to the rib, and a pleasant finale.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up the slab, past the start of Toast, and a recent rockfall scar, to a finish over the block atop the “concrete” chimney.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the central, rockfall-scarred groove in the front face of the buttress. Little more than a scramble, once the steep start, past the rocking jug is accomplished! A similar line 1 metre right gives Origami Route (9m D Clarke 28.3.12).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the black groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left side of the rib, then the shallow groove in the rib itself to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Drop down and traverse leftwards across the scallops for 4 metres to gain a sentry box. Bridge up past this feature to a ledge. Follow the thin crack on the left to gain the rib and finish up this.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the interesting groove on the left side of the block.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 18 metres to a corner below a left-slanting grey slab. Follow a shallow fault leftwards to a ledge on the left side of the slab; then the slab itself to the top. A fine outing; and maybe the best introduction to Deep Water Soloing around!

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up steeply right and make a tricky entry into a V-groove, up this to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up, then follow the grey ramp leftwards to a finish up a shallow corner.

Pitch descriptions:
Hand traverse right and finish up the rib of Caliban.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up and follow the groove right of the blunt fang for a couple of metres; before finishing up the groove on the right on a series of unhelpful holds.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slick rib on the left for 4 metres; before stepping down to the left to gain the shelf. Foot traverse this leftwards, and at its end, pull up into the slabby grooves and finish up these.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the tricky right wall of the chimney to the small, square recess on Highland Fling. Follow the flake up leftwards to the overlap, skirt this on its left and finish up the crack above and slightly right. The name says it all!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb up to the left-hand end of the ledge system, as for Painted Head. Move up, then follow the glorious holds leftwards across the wall, only rising slightly, to reach a white corner (on Cut-Throat). Follow this corner and its looser continuation to easier ground.

Additional info:
The name means “Bristol Channel”!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the grey wall via the thin crack to a ledge. Go rightwards to the ridge and finish up this. After a reasonable start the route eases to a scramble; but all in a fine position.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Stride across and gain the arete; continue rightwards to reach a ledge at half height on The Anvil Chorus. Move up slightly and traverse right onto the rib, in a fine position; step right and finish up the top section of Shanty.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse in and gain the corner crack bounding the right side of the prow. Follow this on improving holds to the top.

Additional info:
Take a BIG tide with you and make sure the central pinnacle reef is well covered! !

Pitch descriptions:
Follow a corner to a sloping bulge at 5 metres. Avoid the bulge to its left and step back right above it to a straightforward finish up a grey groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rib with pleasure, but without much protection.

Pitch descriptions:
Oscillate rightwards into the zawn, keeping about 4 metres above high tide level. After 15 metres things steepen; move first down, then back upwards to reach a wide groove, which is crossed with commitment. Follow the small ledges down slightly for 3 metres; until the bulges above peter out. Climb up, then rightwards to a large circular hollow in the cliff; which is exited on its right side to easier ground.

Additional info:
The Rocket House was the place in Bosherston where the bodies of sailors washed up on the beach were laid out, pending identification–usually unsuccessful in the 1920s and 30s; before burial in the churchyard marked by the Primroses! The House is now the shop next to Ma Weston’s—enjoy your ice-creams!!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the brown wall and shallow grey groove to a slightly leftwards finish up the top wall. Nice climbing, with little protection and managing to keep a degree of independence.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the black groove to a small bulge, traverse left and pull onto a ledge. Follow the flake on the left leftwards and finish up the arête.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Boulder out, or stretch through the smooth wall to reach the break. Hand traverse left and pull up into the crack in the slab. Follow this and the short tower above to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and oscillate rightwards along the break-line to gain the large ledge at the start of Explorer 1. Pleasant, but beware the side rocks at the start and finish!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the break-line rightwards for 6 metres to a small, black ledge. Climb the smooth slab above on slots and finish through an overlap using tiny, brittle plaques of rock.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a crispy slab, then follow the left-slanting ramp to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Follow the left-trending groove, past a slight bulge to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left across the base of the narrow chimney and follow the rib above for 15 metres. Move right across another rib to reach a larger groove. Follow this to a steepening below a small roof; step right and take the grey grooves to the summit. Belay at will!

Pitch descriptions:
Pull left onto the arête, which defines the right end of the flat wall. Climb the arête; being mindful of the reef which menaces this section of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse right (looking in) for 4 metres and climb a hidden crack to a break. Finish up the black wall; good climbing!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the initial groove of Ordinary Route for 5 metres; then follow the short crack in the right wall of the grey groove above. Continue up the groove system just left to reach a large ledge. Step left and finish up the top ridge of Explorer 1.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rib direct to the ledge. Follow the left side of the rib, via the fine white wall above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the broken wall to a bulge. Pull over at its right edge and continue to the top.

Additional info:
The name:- hold 4 apples in one hand and that’s equivalent to a force of 1 Newton!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the lower wall leftwards to gain the shallow groove at the left side of the overlap. Go up the groove for a couple of metres, before swinging rightwards onto the wall using s good handhold. Finish up the short flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the lower wall rightwrds to the overlap. Step right, then up left above the overlap to a finish up the edge.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the left edge of the smooth wall and make a tricky move to gain the break. Follow the short walls above to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the corner; which proves technical at the start and loose at the finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the thin crack and pull directly through the triangular niche above to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the grey wall via the hand ledge to gain the break. Follow the short corner to easier ground.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the right-hand groove, past the chockstones,to a ledge. Follow the steep wall above slightly right of centre.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the short groove and continue up the grey ramp almost to its top. Step right and finish up the crinkly wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the V-groove to a ledge. Step left and pull up onto the ridge above; follow this to the top.

Additional info:
The names?–all climbed on St Patrick’s Day of course! !

Pitch descriptions:
5a Launch up the rib immediately left of the corner, and continue up to a small ledge below the rightward-slanting crack of Limbo. Continue directly up the thin crackline in the shallow pillar above to the top. Rather squeezed, but offers good, fingery and sustained climbing!

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the chimney to a ledge. Follow the right side of the red corner above and finish up the crackline.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the thin flakes to the ledge. Start up the centre of the wall above, then move right and follow the arête until a crack on the left leads to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the smart wall and finish up the much easier groove above.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the scoop and finish up the slabby-looking groove above. Care required with several blocks on this route!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb direct up shelving rock and continue up the wide recess above to finish at the top of Cresta Connemara.

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the shallow grooves and cracks in the rib to gain a good ledge (optional belay). Step left and move up to the bulbous bulge. Avoid this by steep moves on its left and continue to the top.

Additional info:
The photo-topo on p75 shows the line of Final Groove finishing as for Spray Fever; when in fact it finishes up much easier ground to the right!

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the ledge and follow the left rib to the top. Two metres right, the twin, thin cracks are Spidery Cracks (6m S Clarke 23.10.13).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cleanest line up the slabs. Starting from the lowest point, the ridge gives Blofree (10m S 23.10.13).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the steep wall on good holds to the break and escape lefwards.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner and follow the break leftwards to exit as for Windcheater.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the left-bounding corner, and at its top, traverse right and belay on the edge of the slab, followed by a scramble down.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the slab, with a more delicate upper section, and belay on the right edge. The right side of the slab is Haven (10m Mod Clarke 23.10.13).

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the overhanging crack; step left onto a slab and finish up the short, loose wall. Scramble up for 10 metres to belays in an outcrop.

Additional info:
OK- not a major venue, but a few pleasant routes in a sheltered idyllic setting may tempt a few climbers, tired of being battered by the westerly gales!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a ramp up rightwards, then pull over a small bulge on the left and continue up blocky ground. Scramble left and up to reach belays in the outcrops above. A pre-placed rope is advisable.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb Dim Gwynt for 6 metres; bridge out, and pull around left onto the slabby wall. Up this to loose ground and hopefully a pre-placed rope.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the groove to below a bulging rib. Gain the rib by committing moves from the left, and follow it to the top, keeping right of the top bulge.

Additional info:
The name means ‘In Memory of’ in Welsh (Rememberence Sunday). This outcrop-style area has proved a ‘hit’ with several people so it probably deserves a name (Terrace Wall?).

Pitch descriptions:
5a Climb the right-slanting crack to the break. Using the edge on the left, gain a standing position on the upper break. Step right and climb the cracked wall, taking care with the finishing block.

Pitch descriptions:
Make a tricky step down to get your hands on the small ledge, and follow the break rightwards, with feet trying to utilize the faint seam, to the far ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
With hands in the yellow scoop, traverse left into a short corner. Pull leftwards around a dark bulge and finish on spiky rock.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend for 2 metres, then hand traverse left along the wide break to the finishing ledges.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks in the rib above.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flaky slab.

Pitch descriptions:
From the blocks, climb the shallow corner over a small bulge. The bottomless crack just right gives Knipe (7m S 4a Clarke 8.12.13).

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the problematic rusty wall on the right.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Make a steep pull up the rib and finish leftwards up a flake.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the deceptively steep groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the fine chimney-crack.

Additional info:
All the names and type of rock and climbing are strongly reminiscent of Yorkshire Limestone!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks into the niche. Move up and right and follow the rib to the top. A fine little climb!

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the rib on small holds.

Additional info:
All the routes on this really useful outcrop were probably climbed by P Lowman and friends in the 1980’s!

Pitch descriptions:
Step right and traverse rightwards across the dark, slab by wall to gain and finish up a shallow groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Launch up the prow using juggy, crozzly holds!

Additional info:
Be wary of the whirling eddy currents which afflict this area; hence the route names!