New Route – Pembroke Range East Vol. 3 (Barry Clarke)

Pitch descriptions:
4a Move up Route 2; then trend up rightwards onto the grey pillar and follow this to its apex. Step right and pull up the short headwall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the ramp to the terrace.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow a line of holds leftwards into a corner and climb this to the ramp of Seaway. Finish up the square-cut corner on the left.

Pitch descriptions:
Move up and follow the holds leftwards to a ledge above the channel and below a small roof. Pull up leftwards to skirt the roof; and trace a line up the thin crack in the brown slabby wall to the terrace. Very pleasant!

Pitch descriptions:
1 15m 4c Climb the thin crack to a niche below the roof. Step left and pull up to gain a continuation crack which leads to a grass terrace below the upper buttress. 2 8m 4c Move up a grey rib and past a suspect protruding block, to finish up the steep face cracks.

Additional info:
Helen’s Horror repeated–grade confirmed! But what a horrendous, snappy route…at least the descent gully is near at hand!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up rightwards into a slanting crack; follow this and pull up slightly leftwards to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the rib and pull into the groove above, which rapidly eases.

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the shallow groove, past a small bulge to the main ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
1 8m Move down the shelf for a couple of metres, then pull up onto a higher, smaller shelf, and follow this down leftwards to blunt spike belays at high tide level just right of the arête. 2 15m Move up leftwards onto the arête and follow this on juggy, but strangely polished rock to a ledge. Finish up the short pink groove.

Additional info:
On pages 110-111 of the new guide, routes 36 and 37 seem to follow much the same ground as routes 39 and 40! Also routes 38, 39 and 40 are more simply described as taking lines up the recessed wall immediately right of Trio Wall!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rightwards-slanting grooves to the overhangs. Trend up right below these to gain a circular hollow. Pull through a small bulge, move up, then trend leftwards to a hole below a prominent pink patch. Move right and up to easier ground; quite impressive for the grade!

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse 2 metres left, with feet at high tide level, and pull through the bulge at the obvious holds. Move up left, and finish up a groove with amazing ease!

Pitch descriptions:
At the base of the finishing groove of Ripe for Plucking; tiptoe left to a smart finish up the blunt rib.

Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left for 5 metres and pull through the bulges above. Move up, then left across a slab to gain a groove with a thin crack in in its back. Up this to finish. Another fine addition; although this time the holds are less obvious!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the barnacle wall and continue up the short, steep brown groove to gain the ramp of Seaway (optional belay). Cross the ramp and finish up the crack system in the wall above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Continue along a shelf, then cross an awkward gap. Move up rightwards to gain the V-groove, climb this and step along rightwards to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Make a bold pull rightwards onto the ridge. Once established, climb the straightforward groove system to the summit.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb diagonally leftwards for 7 metres to within 2 metres of the bounding rib. Move up and follow good holds leftwards to a fine finish up the right-hand side of the rib.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Make an awkward move from the left to gain the groove in the rib on the right. Follow this to where it fades beneath a bulge. Make a pleasant move right to gain the continuation groove and finish up this.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the grey groove above and right to gain the finishing crack.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Gain the ledge and step left into the small keyhole cave. Climb the smooth wall above on hidden slots.

Pitch descriptions:
Step left onto the rib, and follow it daintily to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the groove above until just below the roof. Make a fingery pull leftwards to gain a slab, then follow the left side of the dark groove to regain the col.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Scramble up the gully; then follow the pleasant shallow groove, which bounds the smooth wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the corner for 3 metres, then step right and follow the holds up the recessed slab itself. First leftwards, then to the right. The left corner gives Crittur Corner (13m D Clarke 14.11.12).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the runneled wall on the left and finish up the black spiky rock above.

Additional info:
Donald Runnicles is the conductor of the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra!

Pitch descriptions:
Pull through the steep start on spiky holds and continue slightly leftwards up the sinuous cracks in the blanker slab. Finish carefully up the steeper little wall just right of The Arête.

Pitch descriptions:
Clamber onto the flake and follow the groove on the left almost to the roofs. Take a low line across the slab on the right to gain the edge of Bomb Slab. Ignoring the right-trending natural line of holds; go up and leftwards up the slab, in a splendid position, to gain the ridge.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the contrived rib just left of the easy-angled groove, and continue up the left-trending crack above.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a delicate scoop, then continue up the wall on improving holds to gain the descent ramp.

Additional info:
There’s a few pleasant short routes in this area (mid tide and below!); and is a nice sheltered place to climb whilst awaiting your turn on Bow-Shaped Slab!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb up onto the large boulder behind you; and stride across to gain a short, shallow tube. Up this, and the blunt rib above, trying to keep to the left of Bart, to a finish up the dark, curving corner.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb a rib for 2 metres, until a small flake allows the shelves on the right to be gained, followed by a step up onto a crystalline ledge. Step right and follow the groove immediately right of the largest prow to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the brown corner and crack above.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right side of the juggy wall.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Amble up the greasy ramp on the right; before making an awkward move up into the square chimney on the left. Climb this for a couple of metres, then make another interesting move onto the gangway on the right. Move up, step left, and follow the right side of the rib to the top. Very contrived, but interesting!

Pitch descriptions:
4c Descend down the smooth shelf and tricky wall to mid tide level. Step left across an inlet and climb the ridge on the left to gain a sloping ledge below a groove slanting up the left wall of the buttress (all very awkward on wave-polished rock; belay recommended!). Climb the groove to its top roof and avoid this to its left.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain and climb the candle-snuffer chimney; mercifully by its right wall!

Pitch descriptions:
4b Pull through the right side of the roof and continue up the rounded shallow groove and yellow rock above, past a hole, to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Descend to a ledge system (mid tide) and traverse leftwards (looking in) at this level to the tip of the headland.

Pitch descriptions:
4a The slabby groove itself proves smooth and interesting.

Pitch descriptions:
4a Descend slightly and traverse rightwards to gain the arête, go up this to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
Gain the arete on the right as for T’gallant, and continue the traverse for a further 2 metres to reach a right-slanting groove. Follow this to the top, excellent!

Pitch descriptions:
4a Follow My Friend to the large ledge. Move up, then swing right and pull up onto a ledge. Finish by trending leftwards up the steep, thin cracks above.

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the right side of the buttress above via the shallow grooves to a ledge. Step left and pull through the bulge just right of Pal Joey. Step right and finish up the flake crack.

Additional info:
‘Shirl’ repeated; grade confirmed!