New Routes – Pembroke Range East Vol. 3

Pitch descriptions:
Takes the hanging inner arch line underneath the lip of Traverse Tea. Start as for Traverse Tea but cross the crinkly wall leftwards, around a square arête onto the hanging slab. Follow this leftwards until the jugs can be reached on the apex of the zawn and a junction with Coffee Anan. Finish up this.

Pitch descriptions:
From the left end of the block traverse 6feet left to the slanting flake crack. Climb the wallabove to reach a crack which widens briefly at 25 feet. Continue up the emandering crack to the top

Additional info:
‘The route is named in memeory of a friend’-Nick Eaton email comment from NE ‘It is difficult to tell from the topo in the guidebook exactly the relationship between the two routes. From the descriptions it sounds like Sobers starts up the line of Warren McSporran and then maybe goes left, whereas WMcS goes straight up. Without a more detailed photo, or being at the crag, it is hard to tell. When I put up WMcS it seemed an obvious line to take’.

Pitch descriptions:
Start as for ‘Black Russian’ but step left immediately and climb the centre of the smooth wall into a tiny corner. Step left and climb the rib until it is possible to step across the cleft to finish. Poor gear low down.

Pitch descriptions:
Start at low tide and climb the smooth chimney to easier ground. Continue up the twin cracks to the roof and pull out right onto a ledge, then finish straight up.

Pitch descriptions:
Start as for ‘Scapegoat’, then climb a short crack to a junction with ‘Peace Torque’ at a niche. Move up and left and follow vague cracks through the bulge, then go easily up the slab to a ledge. Climb the overhung corner and twin cracks above to finish.

Pitch descriptions:
Start at low tide on the ledges beneath the face, directly below a cave. Make a tricky move into the cave (harder for the short !) and continue up the cleft above until it closes, then traverse right for 1½m along a diagonal break. Climb the steep wall above on huge holds to a niche below the overhangs and pull through them on good but spaced holds. Climb the slab above to the overlap, step right and climb a slight groove through the bulge to a ledge. Finish up the stepped crack above to easy ground.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 27m 5b Start as for Keep On Trucking but at the first horizontal break bridge out right and make a tricky move onto the hanging slab.Traverse up and right to the widest part of the overlap and pull over with difficulty on viciously sharp holds, then traverse up and right again to the arête. Climb the arête, then straight up the pleasant wall to a ledge. pull over the bulge and belay on the terrace above.
2. 18m Climb easily to the top by whatever line takes your fancy.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to a groove and follow this to a small roof on the left, then climb the slanting crack on the right to the halfway ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
Start just right of Bushbaby where a crack runs up diagonally rightwards to the recess. Climb the crack into the recess, then go over the little roof in its upper lefthand corner and climb the groove above to the halfway ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 18m 5a Startat the righthand end of the higher part of the ledge beneath the lower tire, just left of Spotty Dog. Climb the spiky wall to the bottom of the recess, then go up and right to the crack in the top righthand corner. Make a couple of hard moves up this to easy ground and a belay on the halfway ledge. A good pitch in its own right.
2. 22m 4b Step off the leaning block and climb straight up to the start of a ramp running diagonally rightwards up the wall above. Climb this to the top, taking care with the rock higher up. (This may cross or actually be ‘War Baby’ or ‘Going Steady’ ?).

Pitch descriptions:
5a. From the ledge trend up and right to the overhangs, go up Black Panzer for a couple of metres, then traverse right around the arête and continue to the base of the chimney groove. Climb this to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
4a. Climb the centre of the slab to the lefthand of two brown grooves. Go up this to a ledge and continue to a junction with Tequila Sunrise. Finish as for that route.

Pitch descriptions:
30m 5a Climb up to the cleft below the large roof, then move left towards the arête as soon as possible. Continue moving leftwards around a rib, then tiptoe delicately across Crocksydam Groove to finish up the groove taken by Stoneflower.

Pitch descriptions:
24m, HVS 5a. Strenuous but technically straightforward climbing up to and over the overhang gives access to the groove. Climb this to just above the point where TenderfootDrifter’s Escape arrives from the right. Trend up left round the rib into a groove. Follow this to finish on the descent ramp. It’s possible, and maybe slightly easier, to move left rather sooner above the guardian overhang and thus gain the final groove from below.

Additional info:
Hard to believe that this hasn’t been done before – it’s such an obvious line – but can find no record of a previous ascent.

Pitch descriptions:
20m, 4b. Starting from small ledges 4m above high water, climb the corner to a steeper section, where some tricky moves lead to the upper corner which is followed pleasantly to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
18m, 4b. Move up left onto a large ledge, climb the little slab to a roof, move left and enter the prominent crack. Follow this to a sloping ledge on the left and finish easily up the broken groove above.

Pitch descriptions:
15m, 4b. Climb the crack to the roof, pull over and continue steeply past a break to a ledge, then climb a short wall to the top – very spiky !

Pitch descriptions:
15m, 4b. Climb the wide crackrunnel then a spiky slab to the roof. Pull through on sharp holds, step slightly left and go up to a ledge, then easily to the terrace.

Pitch descriptions:
18m, 4c. Gain the arete from the right via a short crack and a traverse left. Trend leftwards up the arete in a great position, then climb the black slab to a break. Take the grey wall above past a diagonal black pocket to the terrace.

Additional info:
Good climbing but spaced protection, especially low down.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 15m, 5ab. From the belay of “Tear”, climb the left-hand corner of the recess, moving right with difficulty then back left round the halfway bulge, to the large break. Traverse right past red rock, under some wedged blocks and onto a small ledge.
2. 23m, 4b. Climb the slab above the belay to a large ledge (junction with “Gaping Gullet”), then traverse horizontally left on the orange slab to finish up the last few metres of “Tear”.

Pitch descriptions:
21m, 5a. Climb past a slanting crack and pocket to a ledge, then up the juggy arete on the right to join “Snap, Popple & Crack”. Follow that route for a couple of metres, then traverse left onto the arête and climb it to the top in a great position. Contrived at the top but good climbing.

Pitch descriptions:
27m, 4c. Climb the wide corner crack and then the groove above to the break. Move left to the ledge and some wedged blocks, from the top of these climb past a crozzly ledge into a small brown groove, then move left up a rib to orange rock and finish on the abseil ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 25m 4b. From the ledge trend up and right to a grassy bay, then traverse right above the lip of the overhangs via grooves and slabs to belay in the large groove directly above the centre of the sea cave.
2. 20m 4b. Continue traversing at the same level to an arete, go round this and step down to a slab. Cross this and continue onto the ledge above the lower tier of Battleship Buttress West.

Additional info:
Alternate leads.

Pitch descriptions:
Start up Tequila Sunrise but after a few moves, step left into the obvious crackline and follow this until forced left onto the slab. Finish direct past a large rock scar. (The line is very obvious on the photo on page 254.)

Pitch descriptions:
6a Climb up and right to the overhanging wall between ‘Touch and Go’ and ‘Medulla’. Arrange gear and make hard moves up and right to gain a juggy break just left of ‘Medulla’ Go straight up a few moves then back left before the final slab and climb direct on positive holds to reach the final moves of ‘Medulla’

Farewell my Brother

Submitted by : Steve Newman
Crag : Saddle Head below the descent ridge
Date of ascent : 18/04/15
Route name : Fairwell my Brother
Length/grade/stars : 27m HS 4b
Climbers : Steve Newman, Diccon Proctor
Start location:
Start midway between THE FINAL GROOVE and GORGEOUS GREY GROOVE below a prominent brown stained V

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove, pull through the overlap and continue up the left slanting crack/groove line to finish on the ridge.

A Friend Indeed

Submitted by : Diccon Proctor
Crag : Saddle Head below the descent ridge
Date of ascent : 18/04/15
Route name : A Friend Indeed
Length/grade/stars : 25m HS 4b
Climbers : Diccon Proctor, Steve Newman
Start location:
Start midway between THE FINAL GROOVE and GORGEOUS GREY GROOVE, 3m to the right of an obvious grey hanging corner. (5m to right of Fairwell my Brother).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to a shallow ramp, trend slightly rightwards, and over a small bulge. Continue up to a triangular block and exit via a short chimney notch.

Pitch descriptions:
From the left end of the oblong block traverse 2 meters left to the slanting flake ramp. Climb the wall above to reach a crack and follow this to just below the top. Finish direct.

Additional info:
The route is named in memory of a friend. I have finally got around to repeating this route and am confident how it relates to the other routes. I can confirm that Warren McSporran starts as for Sobers but continues up the same crack to almost the top and finishes where Amnesia does – it is the natural line on this part of the crag. I also feel that a grade of VS 4c is more appropriate when compared to other routes in the area. The route Warren McSporran has already been reported once but there was some confusion as to its line, hence the revised description and Additional Info.

Crack My Pitch Up

Date of ascent: 25/5/16
Length/grade/stars: 25m E1 5a
Climbers: Tom Rogers, Henry Castle

Start location:

On the Half height ledge of Viva.

Pitch descriptions:

From the ledge climb up Viva crack for 7m to high stratified breaks that run rightward to the blocky l/h end of the overhang. Access the leaning steepening groove above on solid rock with good holds and good gear where you need it. Exit on fantastic rock up easing slabs.

Flatulent Flake

Date of ascent: 25/08/16
Length/grade/stars: 20m E2 5c 1star
Climbers: Tom Rogers, Henry Castle

Start location:

Groove at 1/2 height on Speakeasy

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slab up and left of the corner to the L/H arête formed by a huge hanging flake. Continue steeply up the flake crack on the arête, being wary of a large loose block at its top. Nut and sling belay.

The West Wing

Date of ascent: 29/07/17
Length/grade/stars: 33m E4 6a *
Climbers: Steve Quinton, Justin Lowman

Start location:

Start as for The Gazebo.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crux bulge of The Gazebo then continue up the wall and traverse delicately right to the base of the large corner (as for ‘Why Should I’). Ascend the corner for 3 metres then move right and climb the wall of the prow, following cracks and pockets past a large thread to gain the top. (Plenty of large cams useful.)

Additional info:

This is really a variation finish to ‘The Gazebo’. The wall itself (excluding the start up ‘The Gazebo’/’Why should I’))is about E2 5b and could be gained by abseil and hanging belay at the foot of the large corner.

Battleship Buttress > Battleship Buttress East

Arch Stanton

18m S 4a
28-Aug-2020, Phil Biglands, Peter Biglands
Start up Mrs Weston’s Puce Pink Push Bike but continue up the slabby corner just left of Waggle Dance. The left hand of 3 corners with Waggle Dance being the middle one and Mrs Weston’s Mean Green Kawasaki the right hand one.

The Cauldron > Flimston Ridge: West Face

Route Comment: Flimboyant

01-Jan-1970,
We did this route recently thinking it was new. We thought it was a lovely route on excellent rock best enjoyed at low tide with a calm sea. The route finishes by a boulder filled depression on the other side of which is Route 1.

Triple Overhang Buttress

Not Soft Chimney

24m HVS 4c
16-Sep-2023, Anthony Schwirtz & Joe Price
Follow the “scramble” approach as for Soft Chimney. Step across the gap at the base of the chimney. Climb the slab and cracks to a ledge (optional belay). Get established on the upper blocky slabs right hand arête. Move diagonally leftwards to the centre of the slab and climb direct to the top, exit left over the top of Soft Chimney.