New Routes – Pembroke North

Note: There is a definitive coverage of the climbing at Pen Bilis/Lochtyn in Pembroke North.

Additional Pembroke North routes submitted by Barry Clarke

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Submitted by : Alison Athroll
Crag : Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 08/04/2007
Route Name : Be Calm
Length/grade/stars : 70 ft, E1 5b
Climbers : Alison Athroll, Ian AthrollStart location:
Start as for A Head in the Clouds.Pitch descriptions:
Climb up and traverse left to the square pocket of The Great Valerio. Continue along this until a thin rising diagonal (finger) crack line appears above. Climb up to this and follow to the crack of Be Brave. Finish as for Be Brave. This is a good option if you want to savour some of the delights of The Great Valerio but climbers on Metamorphosis prevent the complete outing.Additional info:
On-sight. Repeated by other unknown party who were present at the crag at the time.
Submitted by : Sarah Clough
Crag : Porth-y-Fynnon, The DIY PinnaclesIntroduction:
The DIY Pinnacles can be seen off the tip of grey slab – there are two triangular sea stacks accessible at low tide, the second of which is spit into two slabs separated by a gully. These two stacks offer 5 routes, all short but pleasant and on solid rock, and worth checking out if you fancy a small adventure. See Front and side views below.

DIY Pinnacles - Front View

DIY Pinnacles – Front View

DIY Pinnacles - Side View

DIY Pinnacles – Side View

Approach:
To access the routes, either abseil down grey slab and walk across tidal ledges to the stacks, or scramble round from purple slab. The ledges at the base of the stacks are accessible for 3 hours either side of low tide, the scramble round from purple slab is accessible for about 1/2 hour either side of low tide. To escape, it is best to scramble back round to purple slab (so save the lowest point of the tide for this part) and climb out. It is also possible to climb out grey slab if you are competent at that grade giving yourself longer on the routes, or prusik up your ab rope if you get stuck.

Routes:
The front purple coloured slab on the second stack yields:

Chisel“, a pleasant Mod (10m *) – traverse left to the base of the straight diagonal crack and climb it directly, then scramble off the back. The back slab yields three routes:
Screwdriver
VD (10m) up the left arete finishing at the top of the left hand crack
Hammer
VD (5m) up the short left hand crack
Drill
Diff (8m) up the right hand crack.

For all three of these, descend down the ridge on top of the left arête. The sea stack closest to the grey slab can be climbed direct up the broken cracks of “Jigsaw
at Mod (8m), descend off either side although the right (facing land) is easiest.

DIY Pinnacles - Front View Topo

DIY Pinnacles – Front View Topo

DIY Pinnacles - Side View Topo

DIY Pinnacles – Side View Topo

Climbers:
“Chisel” M Sarah Clough (solo) (11th Aug 2007)
“Screwdriver” VD Daniel Money (solo) (11th Aug 2007)
“Hammer” VD Sarah Clough, Daniel Money (11th Aug 2007)
“Drill” D Daniel Money, Sarah Clough (11th Aug 2007)
“Jigsaw” M Sarah Clough (solo) (11th Aug 2007)

Note – we have graded them in accordance with what we are used to, rather than in accordance with the other routes in the area, which all seem a little soft touch. For example, Hammer VD and Drill D are harder than Gemini VD at Initiation Slabs.

Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator
Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr
Date of ascent : 9/8/98
Route Name : A Scanner Darklyh
Length/grade/stars : 30m Severe
Climbers : Nick Taylor
Start location:
Start at small ledges just above the sea.Pitch descriptions:
Initially hard moves on small holds, (thin crackline, small footholds) lead up and right, from the ledge to an easy groove-line.
Submitted by : James Davis
Crag : St. David’s Head (South Butress)
Date of ascent : 26/12/2007
Route Name : Oyon’s Boxing Gully
Length/grade/stars : 15m Mod
Climbers : J. Davis, J. BowyerStart location:
Start at the base of the gully to the right of Rakish Crack.Pitch descriptions:
Follow the unexceptional scramble up the gully.
Submitted by : Max Biden
Crag : Craig Carn Porth Llong
Date of ascent : Easter 2002
Route name : Make It Up
Length/grade/stars : 58m, HVS (5a), 1
Climbers : Ken Forsythe, Max Biden (Alt)
Start location:
About half-way down the slabs of the normal descent, as if heading for routes that start at sea level, there is a prominent square-cut gullychimney cutting back into the crag. There is short hanging ramp in the bottom right-hand wall of this, with an attractive slabby arete above. Start beneath the hanging groove.Pitch descriptions:
1. (5a) Gain the base of the ramp and climb it until it is possible to pull round the arete on the right and so gain the slab. Climb this direct until a short horizontal traverse right leads to a stance below a niche at the base of the next tier.
2. (4c) Enter the niche above the belay and move immediately right onto the arete. Continue traversing diagonally rightwards across hanging slabs towards the base of a narrow flying arete. Climb this to a good ledge.
3. (4a) Step across the gully fault on the right to gain a system of slabby grooves and weave your way up these to the top of the crag.Additional info:
Climbed as something to do (and which turned out worthwhile) when retreating from the start of the routes below, which had turned out to be still wet from recent rain. This was a few ago and the memory is unsure as to whether this is the name of the crag – it could just possibly have been Trwyn Llwyd! However, the square-cut gully and general line was very obvious to us as we trekked back up the descent slabs from the wet rock below.
Submitted by : Josh Dickerson
Crag : Initiation Slabs (opposite)
Date of ascent : 06/05/2012
Route name : The Situation
Length/grade/stars : 15-18m, HS 4a, 2 stars
Climbers : Josh Dickerson, Steve Ward
Start location:
Descend down the large slabs opposite initiation slabs until near the bottom, then traverse along a large positive crack to the left under the main slab. From here rock is overhanging above and slopes down into the sea below.Pitch descriptions:
One Pitch: From the approach the route follows a thin crack up to the right which then breaks out onto the main part of the slab with few features, followed by a few short moves the route ends back on the main slab which was first used for the descent.Additional info:
Clean Onsight Lead, do not know of repeats. Used small cams in the crack (may make is a Severe). Otherwise is a HS with just small pro.
Submitted by : Steve King & Martin Newman
Crag : St Non’s Bay – Initiation Slabs
Route Name : Transwarp Conduit
Length, grade, stars : 60 feet, Diff, 0 Stars
Climbers names : Steve King & Martin Newman
Date of ascent : 15/8/2004Approach/Descent:
The route above starts immediately right of The Borg.Pitch descriptions:
Belay in the entrance to the cave and traverse the left-hand wall of the cave until a step can be made onto a narrow ramp. Climb this and step round into the back of the cave. Ascend and exit awkwardly through the hole above into daylight. Damp and slimy with some holds covered in bird droppings.Additional info:
On sight
Submitted by : Steve Quinton
Crag : Craig Coetan
Date of ascent : 25/07/12
Route name : Magic Wall
Length/grade/stars : 26m E2 5c 1 star
Climbers : S Quinton, R Neath
Start location:
Start 4m left of Act of God, hanging belay.Pitch descriptions:
1. 26m 5c Climb groove then bulging wall to reach ramp on left (join Summer Holiday). Up this for a few metres then up left into hanging groove to finish 2m left of Act of God.
Submitted by : Steve Quinton
Crag : Penllechwen
Date of ascent : 09/08/12
Route name : Penllechwen Eliminate
Length/grade/stars : 16m, E4 6a 1 star
Climbers : S Quinton, Adam Bevan
Start location:
Start 2m left of Blackwaterside (low-mid tide)on good ledge. Climbs the wall between Blackwaterside and Edgehog.Pitch descriptions:
1. 6a Climb the wall just left of Blackwaterside for 4m, arrange microwires then move left to ledges and boldly up to small horizontal crack (friend 00). Go up strenuously to break and niche (large cams). Pull over bulge to gain easier ground.Additional info:
For next guidebook just in case I forget!
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Walking Buttress, Lochtyn, Ceredigion
Date of ascent : 10/12/2012
Route name : Traed Mewn CyffionLength/grade/stars : 25 metres
Climbers : Dave Williams, Doug Kerr
Start location:
Abseil directly down the main cliff face from a newly placed metal stake.Pitch descriptions:
25m HS 4b Start 2 metres left of Double D and climb up to the large overhang. Pass this steeply on its right hand side before climbing directly up the juggy wall. Finish carefully up the shallow groove just to the right of Double D. Stake belay.
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress, Lochtyn, Ceredigion
Date of ascent : 17/01/2013
Route name : Cam ar ol Cam
Length/grade/stars : 25m, VS 4b
Climbers : Dave Williams, Doug Kerr, Sy Finch
Start location:
By abseil to sea level from in-situ metal stake.Pitch descriptions:
Start just to the right of Double D and pursue a direct line to join Wild Walking. Trend right to finish steeply up the bulging wall on generally good holds.
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress, Lochtyn, Ceredigion
Date of ascent : 12/02/2013
Route name : The Wave Keeper
Length/grade/stars : 25m, HS 4a
Climbers : Dave Williams, Sy Finch
Start location:
By abseil to sea level from in-situ metal stake.Pitch descriptions:
Start 3m right of Head Space and climb directly over the overhang on huge holds to join Feral Pedestrian at the end of its traverse and finish up this route.
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress, Lochtyn, Ceredigion
Date of ascent : 20/2/2013
Route name : Head SpaceLength/grade/stars : 25m, E1 5a. (1 star)
Climbers : Dave Williams, Doug Kerr, Terry Taylor
Start location:
By abseil to sea level from in-situ metal stake.Pitch descriptions:
The steep, hanging groove at the very left edge of the buttress provides a substantial route. From the sloping ledge make steep, bold, moves through the undercut on good holds and step right to gain the groove. Climb this to its closure and step rightwards to finish airily, and more easily, up the arête.
Submitted by : Peter Trickey
Crag : Bi-curious Mermaid Buttress, Lochtyn, Ceredigion
Date of ascent : 20/02/13
Route name : Bi-curious Mermaid
Length/grade/stars : 15m, E1 5b, 1 star
Climbers : Peter Trickey, Elfyn Jones
Start location:
Bi-curious Mermaid Buttress is on the north facing side of Wild Walks Buttress. Abseil from the stake above Wild Walks Buttress down the wide, rightwards slanting crack at the right hand side of the buttress to a large non-tidal sloping ledge.Pitch descriptions:
15m, 5b. Follow the wide crack up a corner to a small ledge. Finish up the steep final wall.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 22/02/13
Route name : Curb Crawler
Length/grade/stars : 12 metres S 4a
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Sy Finch
Start location:
Abseil from stake on cliff top.Pitch descriptions:
Climb directly up the arête to the right of Mild Stalking.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 08/03/2013
Route name : Jaywalking
Length/grade/stars : 12m E2 5c (1 star)
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Sy Finch
Start location:
Via abseil from a stake at the cliff top.Pitch descriptions:
The centre of the wall, through the overlaps, to the right of Lizardesque starting up a short crack.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 08/03/2013
Route name : Gavin Cooper
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Sy Finch
Start location:
Via abseil from a stake at the cliff top.Pitch descriptions:
The crack just to the right of Twenty Pounds Lighter.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 08/03/2013
Route name : Walk This Way
Length/grade/stars : 8m VD
Climbers : Sy Finch, Doug Kerr
Start location:
Via abseil from a stake at the cliff top.Pitch descriptions:
The crack to the right of Gavin Cooper.
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Child Buttress, Lochtyn, Ceredigion
Date of ascent : 12/03/2013\
Route name : Virgin on the Abyss
Length/grade/stars : 40m, HVS 4b
Climbers : Dave Williams, Doug Kerr, Sy FinchPitch descriptions:
On the North Facing Wall to the north of Wild Walks Buttress there is a large arch. This climbs the arête to the left of the arch which is gained (at low tide) via a rising traverse from the corner on the left. Stake belay.
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Walks Buttress
Date of ascent : 18/03/2013
Route name : Vertigo Games
Length/grade/stars : 25m, E1 5a, 2 stars
Climbers : Dave Williams, Sy Finch
Start location:
By abseil from in-situ stake.Pitch descriptions:
This route takes a roughly parallel line to Tiger Feet. Start as for Feral Pedestrian and follow this up to where it traverses left. Climb directly up to the base of the steep wall. Move up and then trend steeply leftwards following an obvious shallow break through the bands of overhangs to the top. Spike belay.
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Card Wall, Pentrwyn Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 18/03/2013
Route name : Shale I Greet the Reaper?
Length/grade/stars : 45m, E3 5b
Climbers : Sy Finch, Dave WilliamsPitch descriptions:
1. 20m 4b At low tide, climb up and left from the corner start of Virgin on the Abyss. Climb the short wall above to the ledge. Large block belay on the left.
2. 25m 5b Climb the corner very carefully for 3m. Move rightwards across the steep black slab and continue traversing the break to join Virgin on the Abyss. Follow this to the top. Stake belayAdditional info:
Very loose!
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Wild Card Buttress Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 24/03/2013
Route name : High Hopes
Length/grade/stars : 20m HS 4b
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Tim Sparrow, Dave Williams, Pete TrickeyPitch descriptions:
The groove system at the left hand end of the wall. Belay at the jumble of blocks and walk off leftwards.
canuteSubmitted by : Ken McBride
Crag : Porth Uwch Main Cliff
Date of ascent : 14. 7. 2013
Route name : Canute Part 2
Length/grade/stars : 10 m, V Diff. (1)
Climbers : Alison McBride
Start location:
From the large ledge of west side of cliff where Canute tops out walk to the face. Belay below a ledge at 2m metres, below the crack flake 2m right of the right arête. Gain the ledge and climb the corner crack formed by the hollow sounding flake and the the main face. Belay on the grassy top with nut belay. Variation: Use the base of the arête to gain the ledge. S 4aPitch descriptions:
Single pitch. Not to sure how to attach a photo but have one if needed.Additional info:
Onsight lead of the main pitch. Variation arête start climbed by myself on second. Not lead.
Submitted by : Martin Whitaker << Comment
Crag : Narrow Zawn, Pencarnan Zawns
Route name : Lost Dolly
Comment:The First Ascent details have changed since the route description was first published in the Pembroke Supplement 1998. Is this an error, or a later claim? A similar fate appears to have affected “Slow and Steady”.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 28/07/2013
Route name : Chwarae ‘fo Tân
Length/grade/stars : 20m, HVS 4c, 2 stars
Climbers : Dave Williams, Doug Kerr
Start location:
The crack just to the right of Frillious. Finish direct from the ledge.Additional info:
Chwarae ‘fo Tân is Welsh for “Playing With Fire”
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 08/08/2013
Route name : Farokh Engineer
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS 4c, 1 star
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Dave Williams
Start location:
The rightward trending flake to the right of Chwarae ‘fo Tân. Finish direct from a small niche.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 08/08/2013
Route name : Dan Gleeballs
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS 4c
Climbers : Sy Finch, Pete Trickey
Start location:
Climbs the wall approximately 4m to the right of Farokh Engineer via a shallow groove. Finish direct.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 08/08/2013
Route name : Strangers from a Secret Land
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS 4c
Climbers : Dave Williams, Doug Kerr
Start location:
The shallow leftward trending groove approximately 4 metres right of Dan Gleeballs is climbed direct.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 27/07/2013
Route name : Kiss Kiss, Bang Bang
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS 4b
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Dave Williams
Start location:
The broad arête to the left of the deep recess; start on the left and finish up the corner on the right.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 08/08/2013
Route name : Ghost Machine
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E1 5a, 2 stars
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Dave Williams
Start location:
The wall to the right of the deep recess contains 3 cracks. This is the left hand crack which is steep and well protected.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 18/08/2013
Route name : Fields of Fire
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E1 5b, 2 stars
Climbers : Dave Williams, Doug Kerr
Start location:
The central crack (right of Ghost Machine) is also an excellent route, finish leftwards along the short ramp.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 18/08/2013
Route name : Dead Man Walking
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E2 6a, 1 star
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Dave Williams
Start location:
The righthand crack has an overhanging start. Once established on the yellow slab finish direct up the shallow groove.
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Narayan Ghale Buttress, Pen Bilis, Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 07/10/13
Route name : Sextravaganja
Length/grade/stars : 25 metres, E1 5a, 0 stars
Climbers : Dave Williams, Pete TrickeyPitch descriptions:
To the right of “Kiss, Kiss, Bang, Bang” is a deep recess; start at the back of the recess. Climb the left wall of the recess to enter the hanging groove which is followed to the top.
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Pen Bilis
Date of ascent : 02/12/2013
Route name : Bilis Manger
Length/grade/stars : 32m VS 1 star
Climbers : Doug Kerr , Dave Williams alt leads
Start location:
A rising two pitch traverse from right to left starting as for Strangers From A Secret Land to finish above Paan Ko PaatPitch descriptions:
4c 4b
Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Wild Card Buttress, Pen Trwyn Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 3/12/13
Route name : Iceman and the Blue Moon Virgin
Length/grade/stars : 30m / VS 4b
Climbers : Sy Finch, Dave Williams
Start location:
This route offers a slightly less serious adventure up the Virgin on the Abyss arête. At low water on a big spring tide, the sea bed will dry out and make it possible to access the very base of the arête.Pitch descriptions:
This route takes the obvious, vertical crack just around the right side of the arête. Finish as for Virgin on the Abyss on easier but more serious terrain. Stake belay well back.
Submitted by : I.Fish
Crag : Initiation Slabs
Date of ascent : 30/4/2014
Route name : Hidden Crack
Length/grade/stars : 10m/ HVS 5b/ 1star
Climbers : I.Fish & H.Baldwin
Start location:
Walking around to the left hand side of Cormorant Front (when looking in from the sea) a small ledge can be gained to the side of the block with Cormorant Front & Star Trek on it. Alternatively abseil down the left hand side of this buttress.Pitch descriptions:
From the starting ledge, make moves onto a shelf. From this position, climb the diagonal hand-crack under a small roof on the left had side of the buttress, continuing around the arete and finishing up Cormorant Front.Additional info:
Brilliant micro route with some good holds and views. Such an obvious looking line once you see it!
Submitted by : Doug Kerr
Crag : Pen Bilis
Date of ascent : 14/4/14
Route name : Pen Bilis to Llangrannog Traverse
Length/grade/stars : 1100 metres (0.7 miles) VS
Climbers : Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Don Sargeant, Gareth Williams all solo
Start location:
Start in the sandy cove of Traeth Bilis.Pitch descriptions:
A long sea level traverse, keeping as close to sea level as possible, beneath the huge shale cliffs. The rock at sea level is sound. The traverse goes all the way to Llangrannog. Climbed at mid tide on a receding tide. High tide should be avoided and a calm sea is essential. Fairly serious as escape/rescue would be problematic. Climbed in 3 hours (solo) on the first ascent.Additional info:
All members of the team got wet at some stage, including one early bath.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Craig Caerfai
Date of ascent : 25/04/2014
Route name : Chalwyn Valve
Length/grade/stars : 55m E2 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith
Start location:
Start at the bottom of Scorch Groove with the old ruined peg of Orogeny down to the right.Pitch descriptions:
Step right onto Orogeny, place some gear then make a tricky traverse slightly downwards to get onto Amorican. Now traverse right at the same level across Redwing, to the point where Age Gap meets Age Concern just below horizontal breaks. Next traverse the horizontal breaks right, past Uncertain Smile onto Life’s Just a Ballgame. Now follow Life’s Just a Ballgame climbing its shallow groove in the slab directly to the roofs in the higher overlap. Now traverse left under the higher overlap taking care with the rock, to get back onto Uncertain Smile, Age Concern and the finish of Amorican.Additional info:
Route was lead climbed on sight with all gear placed on lead. It was high tide and so I did the traverse across with the intention of climbing Age Concern. However reaching the horizontal breaks it seemed more fitting to continue the traverse right. The first piece of gear in Orogeny was put on the left hand rope but all other gear was put on the right hand rope. This meant the left hand rope could provide top rope protection for my second Greg Smith.
Submitted by : Louis Hudson
Crag : Treffgarne
Date of ascent : 05/04/14
Route name : Armchair Arête
Length/grade/stars : 13m HVS/E1
Climbers : Louis Hudson and Jon Hudson
Start location:
Just right of the route Cave flake climbing the obvious Arête.Pitch descriptions:
On good holds (but tricky to find) with good protection (pumpy to place) being aware of loose rock especially of a large flake laying flat on the big ledge (unfortunately with a great hold on the back). Then from the ledge place excellent protection in the break and climb the slightly overhanging wall on the right.Additional info:
The Large flake on the ledge is quite secure at the time of first recorded ascent but caution needed.
Needle Boulder

Needle Boulder

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Marloes Beach
Date of ascent : 11/05/2014
Route name : Needle Boulder
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS 4b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Access Marloes Beach centre from National Trust car park and turn right ( as for Big Boulder ) but after about 250 metres there is a pointy stack boulder.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slabby side of the boulder which faces the sea using the left arete. Scramble down the back side to escape.

Additional info:
On site soloed.

The Wider Wall

The Wider Wall

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Marloes Beach
Date of ascent : 11/05/2014
Route name : The Wider Wall
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for The Big Boulders Wider Brother.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the south east face of the boulder on positive holds taking care with the slopey dirty top. Scramble off the back.

Additional info:
On site soloed.

Droopy Arête

Droopy Arête

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Marloes Beach
Date of ascent : 11/05/2014
Route name : Droopy Arête
Length/grade/stars : 6m HVS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Big Boulders Wider Brother. Walk another 50 metres east to a boulder with a bulbous left arête.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the left arête on undercuts and crumbly side pulls staying on its right side until you have rocked onto its drooping blob. Take care with the rock.Additional info:
On site soloed.

Pocket Wall

Pocket Wall

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Marloes Beach
Date of ascent : 11/05/2014
Route name : Pocket Wall
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Big Boulders Wider Brother. Walk another 50 metres east to a boulder with an obvious bulbous left arête.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the middle of the wall on big pockets until halfway up then carefully bridge right to a faint groove. Carefully climb down the loose right hand slab (which is also the case for Droopy Arête).

Additional info:
On site soloed.

Mynydd Dinas, Garn Fawr

Mynydd Dinas, Garn Fawr

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Mynydd Dinas, Garn Fawr
Date of ascent : 14/05/2014
Route name : Ambassadors for Mistras
Length/grade/stars : 14m HVS 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Kelvin Childs
Start location:
Start at the foot of the crack system which runs right up the centre of the main crag, Garn Fawr. (Right of Garn Fawr Offwidth)

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack system with the crux being near the start. Very well protected but a little dirty and green. Will clean up good with traffic.

Additional info:
Route was cleaned (a lot) on abseil then lead climbed with all gear placed on the lead.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Mynydd Dinas, Garn Fawr
Date of ascent : 15/05/2014
Route name : Stephen’s Story
Length/grade/stars : 14m VS 4c 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Kelvin Childs
Start location:
Start at the obvious flake crack to the right of the central crack on the main crag (Ambassadors for Mistras).Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake crack past some blocks to a recess under the big green roof ( big cam or hex handy ). Now make a tricky move left to good holds and a pleasant crack. Pass this and finish up a juggy easy slab.Additional info:
Route was climbed on sight. Route was lead climbed with all gear placed on the lead. Still a little dirty and overgrown but the moves are lovely and traffic will clean it up great. Named in honour of Stephen Sutton who raised millions for teenage cancer patients and has sadly passed away recently. What a hero.
Hoy Yourself UP

Hoy Yourself UP

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Mynydd Dinas, Garn Fawr
Date of ascent : 19/05/2014
Route name : Hoy Yourself Up
Length/grade/stars : 14m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith, Kelvin Childs
Start location:
Start at the right arete of the main crag under a block which is wedged between the arete itself and the boulder on the right. (To the right of Stephens Story.)

Pitch descriptions:
Use the wedged block to mantle up under the arete. Stand on the wedged block to get holds on the arete and haul up on these onto the narrow slab. (5a but unprotected). It is now wise to place gear in the crack of Stephens Story to the left. Climb the narrow slab using its left and right arete until a jam (and gear) can be gained in the break under the roof. Use the jam to grasp the thin flake crack above the roof. This leads to a big flat hold and a powerful exit. A good route but escapable.

Additional info:
Route was cleaned on abseil. Route was then lead climbed with all gear placed on the lead.

Let's Destroy Ukip

Let’s Destroy Ukip

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Mynydd Dinas, Garn Fawr Lower Tier
Date of ascent : 19/05/2014
Route name : Let’s Destroy Ukip
Length/grade/stars : 4m HVS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start at the boulder which is above Sloper Traverse and under Western Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up onto the boulder using the block above the bush. Now gain the crack and undercut flake above and follow this rightwards to the top. The route climbs above the gulley drop and a fall could be quite nasty.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Poll Carn, Treffgarne.
Date of ascent : 03/06/2014
Route name : Arm A
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start round to the left of the North West Face, about 50 metres to the left of Where’s Wolf at a clean vertical wall.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the wall to past the break then near the top, follow a line of holds to the top left hand corner of the wall and a tricky finish. Scramble carefully off left.Additional info:
Climbed on sight. Soloed.

Arm A, Hybrid, Arm B and Vapour - Photos Gavin Cytlau

Arm A, Hybrid, Arm B and Vapour – Photos Gavin Cytlau

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Poll Carn, Treffgarne.
Date of ascent : 03/06/2014
Route name : Hybrid
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start as for Arm A at the vertical wall.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the centre of the wall as for arm A but at the break move slightly right and climb to the very top of the wall keeping just left of the right arête. Good finishing holds await.Additional info:
Climbed on sight. Soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Poll Carn, Treffgarne.
Date of ascent : 03/06/2014
Route name : Arm B
Length/grade/stars : 6m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start as for Arm A but at the right arête.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the right arete past the tiny sapling.Additional info:
Climbed on sight. Soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Poll Carn, Treffgarne.
Date of ascent : 03/06/2014
Route name : Vapour
Length/grade/stars : 6m HVS 5b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
To the right of Arm B there is a small cave with an overhanging prow/arête above it and a boulder below. Start here.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the overhanging prow / arête with powerful moves and finish just to the left of the hanging crack.Additional info:
Climbed on sight. Soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Maiden Castle, Treffgarne
Date of ascent : 24/06/2014
Route name : Greg Smith Callback
Length/grade/stars : 11m E2 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start at the stack like buttress a few metres to the left of the North West Face of Maiden Castle. ( To the left of The Big Roof ).Pitch descriptions:
Climb steeply up under the right side of the roof and fix good gear. Over the roof on the right of the arête a juggy pocket can be gained. A couple of tough pulls on the arête (crux) gain a comfortable jug and more good gear. Now move slightly right past a dubious looking thread and climb the steep micro groove to the top.Additional info:
Route was cleaned and worked on an abseil rope then soloed.

Greg Smith Callback - Photo Gavin Cytlau

Greg Smith Callback – Photo Gavin Cytlau

Phil Lewis Callback - Photo Gavin Cytlau

Phil Lewis Callback – Photo Gavin Cytlau

Both climbs in relation to the north west face of Maiden Castle on the right

Both climbs in relation to the north west face of Maiden Castle on the right

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Maiden Castle, Treffgarne
Date of ascent : 24/06/2014
Route name : Phil Lewis Callback
Length/grade/stars : 13m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start about 20 metres to the left of the buttress of Greg Smith Callback at the next obvious buttress. Start at the right hand side of the buttress under a little roof.Pitch descriptions:
Climb up over the roof onto slabby rock then slightly right to a big blocky vegetated ledge ( first good gear ). Move up left onto a higher ledge and then climb the diagonal crack on jugs to the top.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Maiden Castle, Treffgarne
Date of ascent : 31/06/2014
Route name : Picot’s Patience
Length/grade/stars : 16m E2 5c 1 point 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Fred Picot
Start location:
Start just to the left of The Big Roof on The North West Face of Maiden Castle.Pitch descriptions:
To the left of the overhanging start of The Big Roof is a steep green groove. Climb the groove with difficulty past a peg. Now climb easy rock up to the break under the roof. Arrange gear and clip a peg above. Now make a couple of very steep testing moves on painful holds to grasp a jug rail. The jugs are followed to the left for a speedy exit. Step right and finish easily as for The Big Roof.Additional info:
Route was cleaned and equipped with pegs on abseil. On the first ascent I used a point of aid at the second peg on the overhang.
South Face, the Starting Groove System

South Face, the Starting Groove System

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Porth Lleuog (St David’s Head Area)
Date of ascent : 27/07/2014
Route name : The Howe Family Stack
Length/grade/stars : 15m XS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
From Whitesands Bay car park follow the path towards St David’s Head for a couple of minutes. After the headland drop down left onto the beach of Porth Lleuog. Approach the obvious stack, the climb takes the side facing you and Whitesands beach. The south face. Start at the groove system in its centre.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove system on appalling rock until on a ledge bellow a huge loose leaning pillar with a big block stuck in it’s top. Traverse left on more awful rock into a loose vegetated groove. Go up slightly then go left again into another groove and an easier position. Now move up with extreme care onto the top which consists of blocks pebbles dirt and grass. There is no belay.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed and I carried a rope to abseil back down. On finding absolutely no anchors at the top I got the passing Howe family to secure my rope to blocks at the foot of the south face. This allowed me to abseil down the north face. Big thanks to David Howe, Tom Howe, Dan Howe and Josh Howe. Without them I might still be up there.

White Lighting

White Lighting

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Porth Lleuog (St David’s Head Area)
Date of ascent : 28/07/2014
Route name : White Lighting
Length/grade/stars : 6m E1 5b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
From Whitesands Bay car park follow the path towards St David’s Head and drop down left onto Porth Lleuog. Before you get to the obvious stack ( Howe Family Stack ) there are two caves on the right. A big cave and a smaller cave on it’s right. Start on the white streaked wall left of the small cave.

Pitch descriptions:
Pull up onto the white streaked wall with difficulty and make crux moves to reach over the strip roof. Continue on steep rock to the ledge then scramble back down to the right. Bad landing.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Commencing!

Commencing!

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 30/07/2014
Route name : Commencing!
Length/grade/stars : 20m E1 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
From Whitesands Bay car park follow path to St David’s Head. After the gate follow the path a couple of hundred metres down to the small secluded beach on the left. Access the beach and walk to the left past some small easy slabs to the foot of an obvious flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake crack direct until just below the top where a step right is made. This gains a large spike. (About VS so far). Now step right and down to gain a line of holds which leads to ledges at the top of a groove. Now move up and finish with maximum care on sharp, vegetated, loose rock. Scramble with care up the grass bank and escape.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Spike Ridge

Spike Ridge

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Marloes Beach
Date of ascent : 03/08/2014
Route name : Spike Ridge
Length/grade/stars : 11m HS 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
From Big Boulders Wider Brother walk approximately 400 metres to the east along the beach until a buttess is reached. Start at the groove at its base.

Pitch descriptions:
Layback up the groove to big holds ( crux ). Continue up the spike ridge to a blocky ledge. Scramble down on the right.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Spike Wall Left

Spike Wall Left

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Marloes Beach
Date of ascent : 03/08/2014
Route name : Spike Wall Left
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS 4b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start on the Spike Ridge buttress but round to the right on a platform under a vertical wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a flake crack left of the centre of the wall. Move right along a horizontal break. Move up then right again to finish past 2 pockets.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Spike Wall Right

Spike Wall Right

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Marloes Beach
Date of ascent : 03/08/2014
Route name : Spike Wall Right
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS 4b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start a couple of metres to the right of Spike Wall Left.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb a flake crack almost in the centre of the wall to an overhang. Step left to good holds and move up to the pockets on Spike Wall Left. Finish as for that route.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Submitted by : Dave Williams
Crag : Ynys Lochtyn
Date of ascent : 16/08/14
Route name : Crack in Time
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS 4b
Climbers : Dave Williams, Sy Finch
Start location:
Undercover Wall. The deep, overhung cleft right of ‘Out of Time’.Pitch descriptions:
To the right of ‘Out of Time’ is a steep overhung cleft which possesses a slight air of impermanence. For much of the time it is a wet gutter, but when dry it provides a surprisingly worthwhile and entertaining route. Start at the very back of the cleft. Climb the left wall to the obvious protruding fin which is enthusiastically used to gain the short hanging groove to its right.
Dopey David's Brainwashed BetaMonkeys

Dopey David’s Brainwashed BetaMonkeys

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, South Buttress
Date of ascent : 03/09/2014
Route name : Dopey David’s Brainwashed BetaMonkeys
Length/grade/stars : 8m E1 5b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Emile Lake
Start location:
About halfway up The Staircase there is a ledge on the right under an overhanging prow. Start here.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up left under the prow steeply on jugs until at a point where there is a hanging slab on the left at the lip of the roof. Pull steeply up and using a wobbly chokestone, make an exit onto the slab.

Additional info:
Route was lead climbed on sight with all gear placed on the lead.

Location of Unknown Crag

Location of Unknown Crag

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau

General view of the crag

General view of the crag

Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014

Gold Wall

Gold Wall

Route name : Gold Wall
Length/grade/stars : 7m V Diff
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach St David’s Head from Whitesands Bay car park. After 5 to 10 minutes you reach a gate. Go through it but go straight on instead of right. Paths lead to an obvious outcrop. Drop down to the left until you locate a gold pavement which leads to a large platform at sea level.

Pitch descriptions:
The gold wall is climbed with difficulty at first but easy ground is soon reached. Escape off right onto the approach scramble.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Excellent rock.

Groovy

Groovy

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Groovy
Length/grade/stars : 7m Severe 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Gold Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
To the left of Gold Wall is a groove. Climb it. Escape off right via the approach scramble.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. There is gear for lead climbers.

Thin Wall

Thin Wall

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Thin Wall
Length/grade/stars : 7m HVS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Groovy.

Pitch descriptions:
To the left of Groovy is a dark wall with small edges. Climb it taking care on the top out. Escape off right via the approach scramble.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Good rock.

Fang Roof

Fang Roof

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Fang Roof
Length/grade/stars : 8m HVS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Thin Wall.

Pitch descriptions:
To the left of Thin Wall is an overhang with a pointy fang jug on it. Make a boulder problem to grasp the jug then mantle onto it. Continue up easy ground. Escape off right via the approach scramble.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Good rock, gear after the hard moves.

Black Bulge

Black Bulge

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Black Bulge
Length/grade/stars : 9m HVS 5b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Fang Roof.

Pitch descriptions:
To the left of Fang Roof is a black bulge. Slap over with fingery difficulty and move up to a horizontal break ( good gear ). Continue straight up the steep dark wall and take care on the tricky top out.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Lovely rock. The obvious boulder problem start from the low break is a great V3.

Snorting Seal

Snorting Seal

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Snorting Seal
Length/grade/stars : 10m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Black Bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
A couple of metres to the left of Black Bulge is the overhanging arete of the steep wall. Move up on steep juggy rock and make a tough move in an exposed position to get over the overhang. Now follow the thin gold slab to the top. Escape off right via the approach scramble.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Brilliant rock.

Fun Grove

Fun Grove

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Fun Groove
Length/grade/stars : 15m V Diff 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Snorting Seal.

Pitch descriptions:
To the left of Snorting Seal is a big groove. Climb it to an interesting finish then follow the golden ridge above to the very top.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Great rock.

The Arête

The Arête

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : The Arête
Length/grade/stars : 15m HVS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Fun Groove.

Pitch descriptions:
To the left of Fun Groove is a square black arête. Climb it with difficulty at first then follow it to it’s top. Finish up the golden ridge as for the previous route.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Good rock.

Easy Arête

Easy Arête

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Easy Arête
Length/grade/stars : 15m V Diff
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start to the left of The Arête.

Pitch descriptions:
To the left of The Arête is an easier arête. Climb it to the very top via the golden ridge as for the previous route.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Block Groove

Block Groove

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Unknown Crag, St David’s Head West
Date of ascent : 07/09/2014
Route name : Block Groove
Length/grade/stars : 11m V Diff
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Gold Wall but follow the platform down towards the sea. Facing the sea, go round to the left and traverse across to the obvious blocky groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove which has perfect protection opportunities. Finish on the right or left taking care with the final section of rock. The decent approach scramble is now on your left.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 10/09/2014
Route name : Undercut
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start at the groove in between Fang Roof and Black Bulge.Pitch descriptions:
Pull up into the groove using an undercut jug. Finish easily up Fang Roof.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Seal Hunter

Seal Hunter

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 10/09/2014
Route name : Seal Hunter
Length/grade/stars : 14m E2 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start as for Snorting Seal.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb Snorting Seal to under the roof then make a long reach right to a thin horizontal break in the steep black wall. Hold the swing, pull over the bulge on small flat holds then make a quick move left for a flake on the crux of Snorting Seal. Access the golden slab and finish as for Snorting Seal.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Sir Richard Attenborough

Sir Richard Attenborough

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Another Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 10/09/2014
Route name : Sir Richard Attenborough
Length/grade/stars : 15m HS 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach the Unknown Crag ( Gold Wall etc ) but when at the headland go right towards St David’s Head instead of down left. Easy ledges lead down to the sea. Traverse easily for about 40 metres along ledges until a large platform is reached with a striking crack groove at the back.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack groove with great protection taking care with rock at the end. Spike and medium size gear belay available if you look hard.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Little Jonny's Nookee

Little Jonny’s Nookee

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Another Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 21/09/2014
Route name : Little Jonny’s Nookee
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start a couple of metres to the left of Sir Richard Attenborough at the foot of a groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove with great gear. Take care with the rock on the last metre or so. A few spike belays to equalise at the top.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Another Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 22/09/2014
Route name : Lords of Llangattock
Length/grade/stars : 15m E1 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Vitaly Voitekans
Start location:
Start to the right of Sir Richard Attenborough at the foot of an obvious steep groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to a rest at its end, peg. Climb up and right into the thin undercut flake crack and then follow the steep groove to the top. Take care with some of the rock.

Additional info:
Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the peg.

Gavin is Gripped

Gavin is Gripped

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 18/01/2015
Route name : Gavin is Gripped
Length/grade/stars : 12m HVS 5a 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach St David’s Head from Whitesands Bay car park. After 5 to 10 minutes you reach a gate. Go through it but go straight on instead of right. Paths lead to an obvious outcrop. Drop down to the left until you locate a gold pavement which leads to a large platform at sea level. Approach as for Block Groove but traverse further right (facing the rock) to a block platform under a wall with a cave in it.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall up to the cave. Enter the cave and locate a vertical crack (perfect gear). Move left through the roof in an exposed position (crux) and haul up on jugs. Escape left to the top of Block Groove. Finish as for Block Groove.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed, climbed at low tide.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 24/01/2015
Route name : Gavin is Gripped Direct
Length/grade/stars : 12m HVS 5a 2 stars
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith.
Start location:
Start as for Gavin is Gripped.Pitch descriptions:
Climb Gavin is Gripped to the cave with the crack and arrange perfect gear. Pull directly through the cave roof,and climb over the lip slightly rightwards on jugs to big ledges and an easy finish. Nice positions.Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 18/01/2015
Route name : Exit Cave Right
Length/grade/stars : 12m HS 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start as for Gavin is Gripped.Pitch descriptions:
Climb Gavin is Gripped to the cave and the good crack. Slither right and slightly down out of the cave onto easy ground. Climb up right and finish up the cracked groove.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed, climbed at low tide.
Hannah Brading

Hannah Brading

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 18/01/2015
Route name : Hannah Brading
Length/grade/stars : 12m V Diff 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach Unknown Crag from Whitesands Bay car park but take a left as soon as you get to the rock outcrop. The grass slope leads to a small undercut buttress. Keep going right (facing the sea) past a thin slit/zawn and drop down a short gulley to big ledges. Follow the ledges down to the right (facing the sea ) until under a perfectly symmetrical open book groove.Its also possible to reach this point by traversing right 30 metres (facing the rock) from the start of Gavin is Gripped at low tide.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove and easy ground above to big ledges and multiple exits.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed, climbed at low tide.

Small Wall

Small Wall

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 18/01/2015
Route name : Small Wall
Length/grade/stars : 7m HS 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach Hannah Brading but at the point where the ledges lead down to the right go left instead ( facing the sea ). Start just left of the centre of the small wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall on jugs and hold the top. Now hand traverse right to the apex and mantle. Escape off left.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed , climbed at low tide.

Slab Left Hand

Slab Left Hand

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 18/01/2015
Route name : Slab Left Hand
Length/grade/stars : 12metres V Diff
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Hannah Brading but at the big ledges go left (facing the sea) over the thin slit/zawn to another big ledge.

Pitch descriptions:
From the ledge climb the left hand side of the slab up to a small roof. Step right around this and continue with care to the top.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Slab Right Hand

Slab Right Hand

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : St David’s Head West, Unknown Crag
Date of ascent : 18/01/2015
Route name : Slab Right Hand
Length/grade/stars : 12m V Diff
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start to the right of Slab Left Hand.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab using a razor sharp diagonal flake about halfway up. Continue to the top.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Cazamunga

Cazamunga

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Treffgarne, Poll Carn
Date of ascent : 24/02/2015
Route name : Cazamunga
Length/grade/stars : 12m HVS 5a 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start to the left of the start of Farmyard Traverse, a couple of metres to the right of the start of Tweed.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble up to the right of a finger of rock to the buttress proper. Climb up the easy short right hand groove to a horizontal jug slot. Pull up left (crucial small cams) to undercut and sidepull steeply onto the small, very exposed hanging slab on the arete. A crux move up then right gains a well earned rest. Move back left to the upper arete which is followed with easier, but very exposed moves to the top.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil and rehearsed. Route was then soloed.

Diagonal

Diagonal

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Treffgarne, Poll Carn
Date of ascent : 26/02/2015
Route name : Diagonal Crack
Length/grade/stars : 14m Severe 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start on the West Side at the top of the large boulders round to the left of Diamond Flakes.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble up left to a red bush. Walk left onto a thick grass ledge. Climb the right to left diagonal crack and easy rock above to the top.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Circus Giraffe 69

Circus Giraffe 69

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Treffgarne, Poll Carn
Date of ascent : 26/02/2015
Route name : Circus Giraffe 69
Length/grade/stars : 20m HS 4b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start as for Diagonal Crack.

Pitch descriptions:
Scramble up left to the red bush but then go up and slightly right to to cracked bulging groove. Bridge up the groove a little then escape left. Move up and back right, now follow the cracked slab to the top in a nice position.

Additional info:
Route was rehearsed on abseil then soloed.

Like, Comment, Share

Like, Comment, Share

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Treffgarne, Poll Carn
Date of ascent : 26/02/2015
Route name : Like, Comment, Share
Length/grade/stars : 11m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start to the right of Tweed at the finger of rock.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up onto the finger. Now climb the blunt arête feature above ( crux ) to an easing at halfway. Climb the thin flange of rock above to a ledge. Finish up the easy gulley.

Additional info:
Route was rehearsed on abseil then soloed.

Arête

Arête

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Treffgarne, Poll Carn
Date of ascent : 26/02/2015
Route name : Arête
Length/grade/stars : 8m Mod
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start to the right of the Eruption boulder up the hill a little.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pleasant arête on its right side to the top.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Wander

Wander

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Penclegyr East, Porthgain Area
Date of ascent : 11/04/2015
Route name : Wander
Length/grade/stars : 30m D
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start as for Borderline.

Pitch descriptions:
Walk left from the ledge to the slippery groove. Go up the rib formed by the right side of it. Now up to the sheet of rock which No Sympathy passes around. Go left to a smaller sheet and climb the crack in its left hand side. Finish up the bulging crack above.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Fish

Fish

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Approach Wall of Ogof Dwfn, Porthgain Area
Date of ascent : 11/04/2015
Route name : Fish
Length/grade/stars : 25m S
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Abseil off boulders down the wall as for Ogof Dwfn and then move a few metres to the right.

Pitch descriptions:
The pitch climbs the wall aiming for the distinctive small groove near the top. On reaching the groove move right, up and then finish back left taking care with the rock.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Woodcroft On Sea

Woodcroft On Sea

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 14/04/2015
Route name : Woodcroft On Sea
Length/grade/stars : 24m E1 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau. Henry Castle
Start location:
Start as for Watch with Mother.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the start of Watch with Mother but then follow the grassy crack system to a vegetated ledge. Shuffle left to the arête then finish carefully. Not that well protected and a little snappy.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead.

Alex and Agne

Alex and Agne

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 14/04/2015
Route name : Alex and Agne
Length/grade/stars : 13m Diff 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau. Henry Castle
Start location:
Hop over the little stream after the top of White Wall then go out to the headland. Now carefully scramble down a slope and easy rock then go left (facing the sea) to the little crag.

Pitch descriptions:
On the right of the wall is a little groove. Climb this on great rock then trend right over slabby rock to the top.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed by me then Henry Castle.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/04/2015
Route name : Body Jam
Length/grade/stars : 8m HVS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Alex and Agne but after the scramble down facing the sea go right instead of left. After about 30 metres you find a widening vertical slot.Pitch descriptions:
Wedge and body jam your way up the feature, don’t wear your best jacket.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/04/2015
Route name : Baby Valerio
Length/grade/stars : 9m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Body Jam but carry on for approximately another 30 to 40 meters, until you reach a steep crag on a platform.Pitch descriptions:
Starting at the bottom right hand side of the crag. Pull up steeply on jugs and make a rising traverse left, so gaining the prominent diagonal break which is followed to the top left corner of the wall. A great line. It is possible to rock up a little earlier and do the rising traverse holding the top with your feet in the break.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/04/2015
Route name : Kelvin Childs
Length/grade/stars : 8m HVS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Baby Valerio.Pitch descriptions:
At the right side of the crag where Baby Valerio starts is a steep groove. Power up the start to a big ledge. Finish up the top groove.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/04/2015
Route name : Julia Yoga
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS 4b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Baby Valerio.Pitch descriptions:
At the left hand side of the steep crag is an attractive curving groove. Climb the groove with the crux at the top.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/04/2015
Route name : Slab
Length/grade/stars : 8m Mod
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Julia Yoga.Pitch descriptions:
A few metres round to the left of Julia Yoga is a slab. Climb it.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Political Suicide

Political Suicide

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 18/04/2015
Route name : Political Suicide
Length/grade/stars : 13m HVS 5a 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith
Start location:
Approach as for Alex and Agne.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove to the left of Alex and Agne to the overhanging niche. Pull into and undercut out of the niche rightwards. Finish up stunning featured rock.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead.

Greg Evans

Greg Evans

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 18/04/2015
Route name : Greg Evans
Length/grade/stars : 8m Diff
Climbers : Greg Smith, Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Baby Valerio but continue along for about 100 metres past another buttress (not at high tide) until you see a distinctive dog leg crack which goes up then right.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crack and undercut right around the overhang to finish on the ledge.

Additional info:
Route was lead climbed on sight by Greg Smith and followed by myself. Named in memory of the Cardiff artist who passed away recently.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 18/04/2015
Route name : Crack
Length/grade/stars : 8m Mod
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith
Start location:
Approach as for Greg Evans.Pitch descriptions:
To the right of Greg Evans is a flake crack. Makes for a good way back down also.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed by myself and Greg Smith.
General Erection

General Erection

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 18/04/2015
Route name : General Erection
Length/grade/stars : 14m E2 5b 3 stars
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith
Start location:
Approach as for Greg Evans.

Pitch descriptions:
Over to the left and down of Greg Evans is a steep groove which is red at the start. Climb the groove with great gear, moving left a little then back right with a powerful move to haul up the overlap onto the white slab. Follow the crack in the slab to the leaning wall above. Place microwires then move up to the little bulge and over this to exit onto the ledge. Brilliant rock and moves but the leaning finishing wall is escapable.

Additional info:
Route was lead climbed on sight with all protection placed on the lead.

Gary Lewis Callback

Gary Lewis Callback

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 18/04/2015
Route name : Gary Lewis Callback
Length/grade/stars : 30m HVS 4b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith
Start location:
Approach as for Greg Evans.

Pitch descriptions:
About 10 metres to the right of Greg Evans is a blocky chimney and groove. Climb this past a wedged block to exit rightwards onto a ledge.

Additional info:
Route was lead climbed on sight by Greg Smith and followed by myself. There is no belay so Greg had the rope over a large flake at the top which sits above the route.

Party Political Broadcast

Party Political Broadcast

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 09/05/2015
Route name : Party Political Broadcast
Length/grade/stars : 15m E2 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward, Seren Stacey-Jones
Start location:
Start to the left of Political Suicide under the bulge.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to the bulge, gear in flake on the left. Now power over on small holds to a standing position with a peg to the right. Traverse down and right past the peg and along into Political Suicide. Finish as for that route.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the peg.

Dog Bite Groove

Dog Bite Groove

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Crag opposite Harbour Wall
Date of ascent : 25/05/2015
Route name : Dog Bite Groove
Length/grade/stars : 10m HVS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
From the Solva car park walk towards Sterling Hock and drop down grassy banks so you are opposite Harbour Wall. The crag is to the left of a small zawn (facing the sea) and can be approached from both sides. Start at the obvious big groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove with powerful crux moves left onto a ledge near the top, finish with care. You can start the route a couple of metres to the left by pulling steeply onto a slab. This leads to moves down and right onto the ledge and makes the route HVS 4c instead.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Men of Harlech

Men of Harlech

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Crag opposite Harbour Wall
Date of ascent : 25/05/2015
Route name : Men of Harlech
Length/grade/stars : 8m E3 5b 2 stars
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Dog Bite Groove. Just to the right of the groove is a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:
Start just left of the centre of the wall. Power up to a pinch, move left to the arête. Make committed moves up the arête, now rock up and left onto the hanging slab. Great rock.

Additional info:
Route was rehearsed on abseil then soloed. Very serious because on going onto the arête you are climbing above a short gulley going down to the sea. A fall would be very bad.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Crag opposite Harbour Wall
Date of ascent : 25/05/2015
Route name : Right Hand
Length/grade/stars : 6m HVS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Men of Harlech. This route climbs the short right hand side of the steep wall.Pitch descriptions:
A boulder problem start gets a jug on the left, this leads rightwards to more jugs and a green exit.Additional info:
Route was rehearsed on abseil then soloed.
I Can't Do It!

I Can’t Do It!

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Crag opposite Harbour Wall
Date of ascent : 26/05/2015
Route name : I Can’t Do It!
Length/grade/stars : 8m E1 5b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Men of Harlech.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb Men of Harlech to the pinch. Now swing right to a jug under a vertical crack in the centre of the steep wall. Move right again onto Right Hand and finish as for that route.

Additional info:
Route was rehearsed on abseil then soloed.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, West Side
Date of ascent : 02/06/2015
Route name : James and Ed Knight
Length/grade/stars : 10m HVS 4c 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
At the point where the headland starts to face west,descend grassy slopes until at a square zawn. There is an easy angled slab at the bottom and there are plenty of natural spikes to abseil off. The climb is on the left wall with a cave at the bottom (facing the sea).Pitch descriptions:
From the slab, climb onto the left wall and make a delicate traverse rightwards on big footholds until a good hold is reached. Now move steeply right and up above the cave proper into a small featured groove. Finish rightwards on good holds. Route has nice rock and moves but sparse,marginal gear.Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Crag opposite Harbour Wall
Date of ascent : 04/06/2015
Route name : Sing Damn You!
Length/grade/stars : 8m E2 5c 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau. Henry Castle.
Start location:
Start as for I Can’t Do It!Pitch descriptions:
Climb I Can’t Do It to the jug under the vertical crack in the centre of the steep wall. Power up the crack to finish on huge jugs.Additional info:
Route was lead climbed with pre placed wires after a failed attempt.
The Welcome Traveller

The Welcome Traveller

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 06/06/2015
Route name : The Welcome Traveller
Length/grade/stars : 20m V Diff 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
From the headland of Stirling Hock follow the path then locate a grassy rake which leads down to the Gewni boulder beach. Go along the west face of Gewni (low tide only) until an at an 8 metre groove (HS 4a). Climb the groove which gives access to the top. Walk along to some rock spikes, then scramble down slabs and right past a small tower, then down to a prominent groove under the tower.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove up onto the ledge and finish up the steep crack in the centre of the short tower.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 06/06/2015
Route name : Swing
Length/grade/stars : 20m Severe 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for The Welcome Traveller but continue along the top of the south face to the east tip. Follow easy rock slabs down then back right until at a large groove line.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove with ease but before the final crack, swing right on good holds along a steep wall. Now finish straight up.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Crazy Diamond

Crazy Diamond

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Crazy Diamond
Length/grade/stars : 20m HS 4b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for The Welcome Traveller at the South Face. At the bottom of the approach scramble on your right is a diamond shaped, hanging rippled slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Undercut steeply onto the slab and continue in the same line up the rib, to a delicate exit onto the final slab. Lots of gear to be had.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then soloed. An alternative slightly harder start can be made a couple of metres to the left. A couple of metres to the right are some bulging overlaps, these climb at Severe 4a.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Black Wall
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Climb the approach HS but then staying on the west face, scramble down slabs and back right to a vertical black wall. There is a flake crack line encountered first.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the flake crack on lovely featured rock.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Almost a deep water solo if it wasn’t for the ledge under the wall.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Black Wall Left
Length/grade/stars : 8m VS 4c
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Black Wall on the West face. Start a couple of metres to the left of Black Wall.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall to the square flake. Rock up onto it to jugs and an interesting finish.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed. Did another VS to the left again but it was escapable and not as good.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 14/06/2015
Route name : Flake Crack
Length/grade/stars : 8m HVS 5a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Swing. Walk up the easy groove/ramp line of Swing until at a shallow cave. Just to the left is a vertical flake crack.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the crack to a big spike jug. Get on top of this and finish more easily.Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then soloed. A more direct and logical finish to Swing up the final crack was also added at Severe 4a.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 14/06/2015
Route name : Shuffle
Length/grade/stars : 8m HS 4b
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Swing but stop at the short, steep wall down and right of the shallow cave.Pitch descriptions:
Haul up the short steep wall and deposit yourself on the ledge. Stand up and move to the left end of the ledge, now go straight up and finish right.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Solva, Stirling Hock, Gewni
Date of ascent : 20/06/2015
Route name : The Goonies
Length/grade/stars : 9m E2 5c 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau, Kelvin Childs
Start location:
Approach as for Flake Crack but start to the right at the shallow cave.Pitch descriptions:
Climb powerfully up the cave and the bulge above. Make a tricky move left at a ramp line to the big spike jug on Flake Crack. Finish as for this route or slightly rightwards. Gear is strenuous to place other than a big cam slot to start.Additional info:
Route was rehearsed on abseil and top rope before being lead climbed with pre placed gear.
Method Statement

Method Statement

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Treffgarne, Poll Carn, North West Face
Date of ascent : 02/07/2015
Route name : Method Statement
Length/grade/stars : Method Statement
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start a couple of metres to the right of Wolverine Groove.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up slabby rock to a hollow sounding block and a right slanting flake crack. Climb this to a ledge and a flake crack under an overhang. (You can get to here by walking up easy ground to the right.) Move up and left and finish up the steep groove on great big holds.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then soloed.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Treffgarne, Poll Carn, West Side
Date of ascent : 02/07/2015
Route name : Risk Assessment
Length/grade/stars : 20m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start location: Start as for Circus Giraffe 69.Pitch descriptions:
Climb Circus Giraffe 69 to the red bush but then move left under the overhang. Stand up to gain the right pointing flake above (gear). Pull up right then back left to rock over the lip. Finish easily.Additional info:
Route was rehearsed on abseil a lot then soloed.

Wet

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 26/12/15
Route name : Wet
Length/grade/stars : 8m V Diff
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Roughly 60 metres from the General Erection area cliff top, in the direction of Barrel Zawn. Walk down the second spur of rock to a spike abseil.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the groove immediately left of the slab which forms the side of the zawn.

Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed in soaking wet condition.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 26/12/15
Route name : Gust
Length/grade/stars : 11m V Diff
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of the General Erection crack.Pitch descriptions:
Climb over the small overlap onto the slab. Step left into General Erection and go up this for 1 metre. Traverse up left along a line of holds to the arete and finish with care up scrappy ground.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Motorhead

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 31/12/15
Route name : Motorhead
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS 4a 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approaching from the General Erection area going towards Barrel Zawn it is the first spur you encounter. Scramble down the thin grass ridge with care, useful bush for a rope on the grass slope. Once the ridge becomes solid an ok spike can be abseiled off( backed up with the bush) to reach the platform at the base of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:
Follow the golden flakes, a tricky move over the first big flake leads to easier climbing over the others. Finally make moves up and left over crinkly rock to gain the abseil spike. Good gear can be had.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then soloed.

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/01/16
Route name : David Bowie
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS 4a 1 star
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Approach as for Motorhead but don’t go down the thin grass ridge. Instead abseil off the small bushes straight down the corner to a big ledge about 4 metres above sea level.Pitch descriptions:
Traverse up left along the flake ramp line until tricky moves can be made down and left onto the finish of Motorhead. Finish as for Moorhead.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.
Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/01/16
Route name : Red
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
A few metres to the left of General Erection.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the red groove with a vertical crack in it.Now move right and join up with Gust at its finish.Additional info:
Route was on sight soloed.

Kurt Cobain

Submitted by : Gavin Cytlau
Crag : Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent : 16/01/16
Route name : Kurt Cobain
Length/grade/stars : 10m VS 4a
Climbers : Gavin Cytlau
Start location:
Left of Red is a ridge. Over this down a slab and then a hop over the water at a big cave (low tide) gains the big platform.

Pitch descriptions:
From the platform in between the two large caves, climb the red slab to the crystal break. Now up the featured groove and left onto a slab under a steepening. Above lies 10 metres of steep loose rock. I down climbed back from here deeming it too serious to solo.

Additional info:
Route was inspected on abseil then the first 10 metres (nice rock) were soloed, then reversed. Will need to return with a belay for the top 10 metres.

Golden Pony

Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau
Crag: Solva, Stirling Hock, West Side
Date of ascent: 27/02/16
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau.

Golden Pony

Length/grade/stars: 18m HS 4b

Start location:

Approach as for James and Ed Knight abseil spikes but go towards Gewni and scramble down to the little zawn.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse into the zawn and drop right down to continue the traverse left for about 5 metres under the overhanging wall. Make tricky moves into the black groove and climb this to a large ledge. Continue with care up the grassy blocky wall. Possible to just walk off right at the big ledge.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed at high tide with a calm sea. Went back at low tide to find the traverse lower down easier but still awkward to enter the groove from below.

Mechanism in Places

Mechanism in Places

Length/grade/stars: 13m HS 4b

Start location:

Start opposite Golden Pony on the other side of the zawn, easy scramble down.

Pitch descriptions:

About 8 metres in is a cracked groove capped by a large roof (right of a smaller groove). Climb the groove to an awkward move left out of back and foot, under the roof at the top.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.

Lucky

Length/grade/stars: 11m HS 4a

Start location:

Scramble towards Gewni into the next zawn (which contains an island) along from Mechanism.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the steep wall immediately on your right as you enter the zawn to a ledge. Finish up and right

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.

Fried Egg

Fried Egg

Length/grade/stars: 8m HVS 4c

Start location:

Opposite Lucky on the other side of the zawn and island. Was approached by abseil off big spikes.

Pitch descriptions:

Start on arête that forms entrance to zawn. Move up right, left then back right to finish on the wall. Gymnastic.

Additional info:

Route was inspected on abseil then soloed. Care must be taken as a fall could see your back hitting the side wall of the island before the water.

Book

Book

Length/grade/stars: 13m Mod

Start location:

Access Gewni as for The Goonies etc then scramble round at sea level to the side you can see from Stirling Hock West mainland (facing Mechanism etc.).

Pitch descriptions:

About 8 metres round is an open book corner with flake crack at the top, climb it.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.

Ghost of Grassholm

Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau
Crag: Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud

Ghost of Grassholm

Date of ascent: 12/03/16
Length/grade/stars: 7m V Diff
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Henry Watson

Henry Watson on Ghost of Grassholm

Start location:

In between the General Erection and Baby Valerio areas is a loose steep buttress. Further out to sea is a leaning tower. (Very easy to scramble down to here from the top).

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse around to the seaward side of the tower and climb the steep featured slab to the top. (There is another line immediately to the right again which goes at the same grade).

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed by me then Henry Watson.

Submitted by: Ian Faulkner
Crag: Trwyn Llwyd

Rhubarb and Custard

Date of ascent: 01/06/16
Length/grade/stars: 25m E2 5c
Climbers: Ian Faulkner, Michael Pearson

Start location:

Belay as for Baradand and Twinkler etc.

Pitch descriptions:

This line tackles the overhanging wall with cracks ~5 m right of Arabian Slug. Follow Twinkler for 5 m until a line of weakness can be followed upwards. This crosses the line of Barad to arrive at an overhanging wall. This wall is climbed using cracks, moving slightly left as height is gained. Easy climbing the leads to the descent ramp.

Submitted by: Matt Griffin
Crag: Craig Coetan

M.L.K

Date of ascent: 29/05/17
Length/grade/stars: 18m HS 4b *
Climbers: M Griffin, A Dye

Start location:

Start 5m left of L.B.J below a slim crack/groove and below a small overhang at 11m (the overhang has distinctive, white swirls on the rock).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up into the crack/groove and follow the line through the overhang on unexpectedly good holds. Don’t head up onto the ledge on the left, pull through the overhang instead. Many more jugs and much more gear than it appears from below. The line leads to the middle ledge after 18m.

Additional info:

Route called M.L.K after Martin Luther King as it’s next to L.B.J, Lyndon B Johnson, the president who enacted into law many of M.L.K’s ideas.

Submitted by: Matt Griffin
Crag: St David’s Head South

Sit Start Rampage

Date of ascent: 29/05/17
Length/grade/stars: 15m HS 4b
Climbers: M Griffin, A Dye

Start location:

To the left of the Diff, ‘The Rake’ and to the right of the route ‘Crack Up’ is a rib with a slim groove in it, which ends in a small overhang.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove line, following it up left where it cuts into the left wall of, ‘The Rake’ at half height. The top overhang goes easily on jugs – the crux is getting established in the groove as it cuts left at half height.

Stephen on Pitch 2

Submitted by: Stephen Reid
Crag: Craig Coetan

Whiting for Cod Oh!

Date of ascent: 21/09/17
Length/grade/stars: 90m MS *
Climbers: Stephen JH Reid, Sally A Reid

Start location:

Start under a bulging triangular slab approximately 3m right of Act of God and 2m left of the pinnacle of Wall Climb – a thin vertical seam provides a belay.

Pitch descriptions:

  1. 25m 4a Step left (or start direct)and climb the slab to its apex and a junction with Wall Climb. Pull up steeply and stride out left onto a flat ledge in the base of a prominent square-cut notch. Go straight up to a grass oval and belay at the start of Zig-Zag.
  2. 15m 4a From the right end of the grass oval, climb a blocky, brown, left-slanting groove to a grey niche. Either climb directly out of this, or, better, traverse left and up on superb rock. Belay on the ramp of Corridor, just above a large block.
  3. 40 4a Descend the ramp a little below the block until under a lichenous pale groove. Hand traverse leftwards under this and pull up and back right into it. Exit the groove and follow easier rock/heather to a terrace under the final easy slabs.

Additional info:

Not quite sure how this climb relates to MLK recorded elsewhere on this website but I suspect our route’s first pitch is further right. First pitch may be similar to Barry Clarke’s Tiramasu.

Marloes Peninsula/Milford Haven Area > Great Castle Head

Run The Road

13m S 4b
07-Aug-2018, Nick Taylor (on-sight solo)
North Pembroke, Great Castle Head. The deep groove right of “Puppet on a Chain” is followed to an awkward exit. From the ledge step right and climb the unprotected slab. A route of contrasts, finishes at higher level than the other routes to its left.

Marloes Peninsula/Milford Haven Area > Great Castle Head

Lord of The Mics

13m S 4a
07-Aug-2018, Nick Taylor (on-sight solo)
North Pembroke, Great Castle Head. The slab just right of “Run The Road” (about 5m left of Eastern Approaches and 3m left of a new Barry Clarke route) is climbed easily, across over an overlap to a ledge. Then climb the unprotected slab above.

Pen y Cyfrwy > Pen y Cyfrwy – Sun Slab

Yitton

8m S 4a
08-Aug-2018, Nick Taylor o/s solo
A few metres right of “Less UV” climb the short wall and crack to the diagonal break. Follow this up and leftwards with a commiting move, then more easily upwards with care.

St David’s Head East > Porth Uwch/Black Slab > Black Slab

Hollow

35m M
29-Jun-2019, Steve Hill
Start at the bottom of the leftward rising fault (as for Black Rib), and climb diagonally along the fault, passing over the scar of a fresh (at time of first ascent) rock fall on hollow sounding, but seemingly solid rock. 3-4 metres from the top of the fault, break our to the right and climb vertically to a comfortable belay seat.

Porthstinian Area > Pencarnan Zawns > Narrow Zawn

Route Comment: Lost Dolly

Submitted by: Martin Whitaker
01-Jan-1970,
First Ascent details may be incorrect. The description in the guidebook is almost the description, and definitely the name, that I submitted in my first ascent claim (letter to Dave Viggars, 14-06-1998). Probable correct first ascent details – M. Whitaker & P. Cocks, 04-06-1998. Unless, of course, it is a case of….”Oh, we climbed that years ago, but forgot to record it!” The Lost Dolly was a finger bandage that “fell off” during the ascent!

St Non’s Bay > Organ Pipes/Velvet Wall > Organ Pipes West

Flushed

16m VD
21-Sep-2021, Martin Whitaker & Pat Cocks
Takes a line between “Back to the Water” and “Mussels”, finishing steeply but on good holds above a small square-cut overhang.

Additional Pembroke North routes submitted by Barry Clarke