Routes are listed under each crag area.
| Clwyd Limestone |
Clwyd Limestone > Twilight gully walls
New Bend In My Arm
E1 5b
25-Jul-1998, Nick Taylor
Start: The counter-line to No Grips.
Starting below the prow, moving diagonally leftwards across the upper slab then finish direct.
Additional info:
(F.A. Nick Taylor on-sight 25.7.98)
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Clwyd Limestone > Pot Hole Quarry
Crepuscalar
7m HS
15-Nov-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres up and left of Sunset.
4a. Follow the encrusted wall, finishing slightly to the left.
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Clwyd Limestone > Pot Hole Quarry
Corvara
8m HS
15-Nov-2009, BJ Clarke (solo) Re-discovered)
Start between Selva and Sesto.
4b. The wall and right-trending flake between Selva and Sesto gives a few interesting moves.
Additional info:
Done before; but worth recording!
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Clwyd Limestone > Pot Hole Quarry
Lapins
7m S
17-Nov-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Mestre.
4a. Climb the wall finishing over a small overlap below a group of saplings.
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Clwyd Limestone > Pot Hole Quarry
The Howlers
8m HS
17-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately left of Mango.
4b Climb the blunt rib direct.
Additional info:
Lower section cleaned and re-discovered.
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Clwyd Limestone > Pot Hole Quarry
Crack and Scoop
7m VS
17-Apr-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Lapins, below a thin crack at half height.
4b Climb the thin crack and the fingery scoop above; a bit dirty but unpolished! |
| Castle Inn Quarry |
Castle Inn Quarry
Mr. Lister
E2 5b
30-May-1993, Nick Taylor, Simon Berry
Start: Walking a short distance left from the main crag is a small right-facing wall of good rock (about 7 or 8 metres high)
A direct line up the right hand side of the wall.
Additional info:
On-sight
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Castle Inn Quarry
It’s Not All Walking, Alan
E2 5b
30-May-1993, Simon Berry, Nick Taylor
Start: Walking a short distance left from the main crag is a small right-facing wall of good rock (about 7 or 8 metres high)
The left hand side of the wall, following a crack-line.
Additional info:
On-sight
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Castle Inn Quarry
Rogation Crack
9m S
29-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Immediately left of the upper section of Indian Summer is a cracked wall of rough, pristine rock. Start below the central crackline.
Climb the pleasant crack, past a small niche, to the top.
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Castle Inn Quarry
Toowhit
8m HS
29-May-2011, BJ Clarke
Start 2 metres right of Rogation Crack.
4a Climb the left side of a short, scarred bulge; keep left to finish up a crack. The crisp crozzly wall just right gives Toowhoo (7m VD 29.05.11).
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| Pen Trywn |
Pen Trywn > Wonder Wall
Mr Vampire
E2 5c *
05-Sep-1998, Nick Taylor, Tim Parkinson
Start: A line left of “A Fine Time To Die”. Start left of the green crack at a hole
Climb leftwards then directly up a hanging slab. At the break step right then climb a shallow groove above directly. Easier ground leads to steep grassy finish at the abseil point.
Additional info:
On-sight
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| The Gallery |
 Graham Desroy seconding the 1st ascent © Nick Bullock The Gallery
The Road (amongst the ruin)
35m E5 6b
08-Aug-2010, Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy
Start: As described in the A55 sport climbs guide book
One 35 metre pitch starting up the climb Violets Leap on the far right hand side of the crag. Climb Violets Leap until reaching the fault-lineoverhang which is a rising line that runs the length of half the crag. Start the long road left, and left, and more left. Some easy ground is passed and some not so easy ground as the road hits 1 in 6. Keep on trucking along the thin break after the jamming crux until a rest down and left of a worrying nose of rock. Climb up for a few moves (the crux of The Evil That Men Do 7b) and then motor out of the corner following the break until beneath the final moves of Finnegans Wake. Climb Finnegans Wake to finish at a lower off.
Additional info:
The gear is quite a lot of cams of all sizes, (several number 1’s and purple dragons (1.5s) will come in handy) and the bolts when you can reach them from the other routes.
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| Penmaen Head |
Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Greybeard
No Fool Like an Old Fool
25m F6a+, * or **
26-Aug-2010, Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers
Start: Trench Wall is the long wall that faces the A55 and is prominently seen from it when travelling between Old Colwyn and Llandulas. It lies below and roughly at right angles to the previously-developed crags on Penmaen Head. It is considerably taller than is apparent from the road because of a shrub-filled trench that runs along the base of the crag. The routes offer good climbing (much better than the apppearance from the road would suggest) and are all equipped with stainless steel bolts and double ring lower offs. The grassy area between the wall and the A55 is approached from the usual Penmaen Head parking by descending past the other sectors, continuing down via some steps and then bearing R past an area of rock covered in wire mesh. From the grassy area, the routes described are accessed by two paths through the shrubbery in the trench. Each path defines a sector. Sector Greybeard is the broad area of mainly grey rock between 70 and 100 m L of the wire mesh. The approach path is close to a small but prominent boulder in the grass field. The left hand part forms a broad convex pillar seamed with shallow grooves. A prominent crackgroove (Trench Warfare) splitting the right hand side of the pillar provides an obvious reference point. The right hand part is a concave wall with a wide brown streak near its top R hand corner. The vegetation below the crag is mostly flattened along the foot of this sector. The route takes the system of grooves that bounds the broad convex pillar on its L starting about 6 m L of Trench Warfare. Good climbing although there are some fragile holds near the top of the lower groove.
Gain a groove via a short wall and climb it to an awkward exit on somewhat fragile holds. Gain a ledge on the R. From the ledge, make a difficult move into the upper groove then climb it more easily. |
Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Greybeard
Grey Pride
20 m, F6b, **
27-Jul-2010, Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers
Start: See No Fool Like an Old Fool. Start at a square-cut L facing groove below the hanging flake about 4 m L of Trench Warfare.
A good route up a series of shallow grooves just L of the nose of the broad convex pillar. The rock is very solid apart from a Damoclean hanging flake about 6 m up. This seemed solidly wedged when thumped but treat it carefully. 1) 20 m, F6b. Climb the groove using holds round the R arete if necessary. Skirt the flake via the scoop on its L and move up L into the upper groove. Continue up this with interest on smooth rock.
Additional info:
7 bolts It is probably possible to avoid the hanging flake completely but most will bridge gently against it when exiting the scoop.
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Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Greybeard
White Magic
25m, F6c+, ***
12-Aug-2010, Harold Walmsley
Start: See No Fool Like an Old Fool. Start below a shallow groove just L of a borehole in the steep wall immediately R of Grey Pride and about 3 m L of Trench Warfare.
A series of even shallower grooves in the nose of the pillar R of Grey Pride. 1) 25 m, F6c+. Gain the faint groove L of the borehole and climb it to big flat holds. Avoid the groove directly above (which contains loose-looking blocks) by traversing into the solid scoop on the R. Exit the scoop just L of the obvious brown niche and continue up a tiny pillar. Where this fades, move first diagonally L to a good handhold then horizontally L to a big foothold. Gain the shallow groove above and exit L with difficulty on small holds to a good hold below a continuation groove. Climb the R wall of this with further difficulty on smooth rock and exit L to the Grey Pride lower off.
Additional info:
8 bolts. A superb and complex set of moves. Given but the smooth rock may not be to everybody’s taste, if this puts you off. Although the route navigates around a small area of loose rock in its lower half, all the climbed rock is very solid. Key holds are small and hard to spot and some moves are devious. The suggested (on sight) grade allows for this. It feels much easier once the moves are known and might also feel easier if well-chalked.
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Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Greybeard
Thin on Top
20m, F6a+, *
21-Aug-2010, Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers
Start: See No Fool Like an Old Fool. Start as for Trench Warfare, the obvious crackgroove in the R side of the broad convex pillar and break out L to climb the R facing groove in the upper wall just R of White Magic.
Climb the groove of Trench Warfare to a large flat hold at 6 m. Move L round the arete into the scoop of White Magic (1 bolt on White Magic used). Exit the scoop via the obvious brown niche (where a large block used to reside) and follow the upper groove to a smooth finish.
Additional info:
7 bolts
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Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Greybeard
Trench Warfare
22m, F6a+, (maybe *?)
09-Sep-2010, Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers
Start: See No Fool Like an Old Fool. Takes the prominent crackgroove that runs up the right hand part of the convex pillar. Start at the foot of the groove.
Start as for Thin on Top to the flat hold at 6 m (or use the pillar just to the R) but continue with interest up the groove above instead of moving L.
Additional info:
7 bolts (1st two shared with Thin on Top). Relatively easy for the grade but some unobvious moves. Many large poised blocks were battled with and removed. After they had gone the rock that remained at the bulge at first seemed dubious both in the back of the groove and on the R. Therefore the bolts were placed out on the L arete to keep the rope and leader out of the line of fire if they should let go. As a consequence, some clips are awkward. On climbing the route, the rock actually felt reasonably sound so maybe this was over-cautious.
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Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Greybeard
The Shield
22m , F6b, **
31-Aug-2010, Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers
Start: See No Fool Like an Old Fool. Immediately R of Trench Warfare there is a fine rectangular shield of grey rock in the upper part of the wall with two overlaps beneath. This good route climbs the shield after gaining its bottom R hand corner. Start at a shallow groove about 2 m R of Trench Warfare.
Climb the R wall of the groove to a slabby area. Move up past the R edge of the first overlaps to a ledge. Climb the R side of the next small overlap to good handholds at the bottom R corner of the shield. Move up L onto the shield using crimps to gain a series of horizontal holds that stretch L across the shield from its R edge. From the highest horizontal move L and up to the finishing jugs (crux).
Variation: From the good hold at the base of the shield move R and climb a shallow R facing groove for a couple of moves before moving L onto the shield at one of the horizontal holds (you will miss a bolt if you go up too far before moving onto the shield). This is slightly easier than the equivalent section of the main route but it is not as good and you still have to do the final crux move up the shield.
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Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Aretes
Ugly Duckling
20m, F6b+, *
27-Jul-2010, Colin Struthers
Start location:
Sector Aretes lies just R of Sector Greybeard and is approached by another path from the same grass area. See No Fool like an Old Fool for the approach to the grassy area. Immediately R of Sector Greybeard is a set of broken grassy grooves and corners. R of these and lying between 50 m and 70 m L of the wire mesh is a series of aretes. Two are paticularly distinctive. The left hand of these starts about half way up the crag and has a borehole right up its nose (so to speak). The right hand one has a R-leaning crack in its right hand side that is probaby the most striking feature on the entire crag. A blunt, slightly retiring buttress lies between the two aretes. Ugly Duckling starts on the R arete of the groove below and R of the arete with the borehole and climbs the open groove R of the arete with the borehole.
Pitch descriptions:
1) 20 m, F6b+. Move up towards the next corner on the R then veer back L round the arete to gain the main groove via a flake crack. Climb the groove until forced R via difficult moves past a prominent flat hold. Move back L to finish.
Additional info:
6 bolts. Turned out better than expected. There are good moves in the upper half. |
Penmaen Head > Trench Wall > Sector Aretes
Riot
20m, F6c+, **
12-Aug-2010, Colin Struthers
Start: See Ugly Duckling for the Sector approach. Takes the very prominent crack in the right hand side of the R arête of the Sector. Start below the crack.
Climb the crack to an excellent, difficult and bold finish.
Additional info:
7 bolts. Rocks were thrown prior to the 1st ascent.
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| Penmaen-Bach Area |
Penmaen-Bach Area > Alltwen
Hoplite
8m D
06-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Ten metres South West of the summit of Alltwen (255m), lies a broken outcrop of Quartzite (O S Ref 746 773). Start at the left end of the outcrop at a small compact slab.
Climb the slab and the rocks above. The ill-defined rib 4 metres right gives a pleasant scramble Hopalong (8m Mod 06.03.11).
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Penmaen-Bach Area > Alltwen
To It Hop
18m D
08-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 25 metres below and right of Hoplite at a copper-coloured wall forming a green rib on its left.
Climb the green rib and amble up the slabby grooves above.
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Penmaen-Bach Area > Alltwen
Hopscotch
8m D
08-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twenty metres right of To It Hop at the final fling of the outcrop is a small, steeper wall with a crack in its centre.
Climb the crack.
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Penmaen-Bach Area > Alltwen
Oast Slab
7m VD
08-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Hopscotch.
Pull through a loose niche and climb the green slab to reach broken rocks.
Additional info:
The rest of the outcrop may be left to the enthusiastic scrambler. What is certain though is that the mini-Alpine ambiance, high above the Sychnant Pass is terrific!
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Penmaen-bach
Gleaming Slab
10m D
11-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The summit cairn of Penmaen-bach at the Eastern end of the hill (pt. 245); is supported on its South flank by a low-angled pleasant slab, with two, right-slanting breaks cutting into it (O S Ref 748 780). Access is from the car parks just below the top of the Sychnant Pass on the West (Penmaenmawr) side (O S Ref 750 770). Follow the maze of tracks Northwards (tricky in the mist!); for one and a half kilometres to reach the summit of Penmaen-bach. Start below the left-hand slanting break.
Follow the break. The right-hand break gives White Spot (8m Mod 11.03.11)
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Penmaen-bach
Glint
9m D
11-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Gleaming Slab.
Climb the slab direct. Starting half a metre left, the left side of the slab is Daz (9m D 11.03.11).
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Penmaen-bach
Kimberley
7m D
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 35 metres below and right of Gleaming Slab is a steeper, diamond-shaped little buttress; protected by a few bulges and gorse! Start 1 metre right of the central groove.
Climb the right-slanting groove, using the small fin to gain the upper section.
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Penmaen-bach
Beaming
7m VD
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Kimberley below the central groove.
Climb the central groove, through the small bulges to the top. The loose bulge and vague rib immediately left give Flawed (8m S 23.03.11).
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Penmaen-bach
Sparklet
8m S
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Beaming.
Pull through a small overlap to gain a shallow scoop and follow this to the top.
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Penmaen-bach
Pancosen
7m VD
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 50 metres left (NW) of Gleaming Slab is a slabby wall, with a small prow at its right side. Start at the foot of the groove leading up the left side of the prow.
Step right and follow the rib to a finish up a small corner.
Additional info:
The name means "pancake"!
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Penmaen-bach
Henwr
7m D
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Pancosen.
Climb the groove and step right onto the prow to finish.
Additional info:
The name means "old man"!
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Penmaen-bach
Pigog
10m Mod
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Henwr.
Scramble pleasantly up the right-slanting central depression.
Additional info:
The name means "prickly"!
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Penmaen-bach
Herc
10m VD
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of Pigog.
Climb the slab and steep little rib above with interest.
Additional info:
The name means "hop"! Named in honour of my injured leg; which has slowed me down for a month now!
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Penmaen-bach
Heddychlon
8m D
23-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres above and left of Herc.
Climb the "smooth groove" and step right and up at the roof to finish; pleasant.
Additional info:
The name means "peaceful"!
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Penmaen-bach
Pine Solo
12m D
03-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twenty-five metres left of Heddychlon across a heatherscree gully; a laid back buttress may give a few slabby scrambles. A further 75 metres left is a more substantial buttress, identified by an overhung niche on its left and a sweep of slabs on its right. Start at the sweep of slabs on the right, below a shattered right-slanting groove and level with a small, solitary pine tree.
Step right and climb the smooth slab. Cross the shattered groove and follow a series of grooves, finishing up the right-hand one.
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Penmaen-bach
Gwynan Slab
10m HS
03-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Pine Solo.
4b Climb the slab to gain the left-hand end of the triangular roof. Finish up the groove bordering the roof somewhat delicately!
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Penmaen-bach
Gwynan Crack
8m S
03-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres down and left of Gwynan Slab.
4a Step off a flake and move left into the overhung niche. Pull through the bulge and finish up the groove.
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Penmaen-bach
Crystal Edge
52m D
08-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The West summit sends a beautiful, curving quartzite ridge down Westwards ending 300 metres SW of the A55 Expressway tunnel exit at O S Ref 743 781. Local climbers have scrambled up this ridge for decades. One hundred metres right (S) of the start of the ridge is a large triangular buttress; best gained from the campsite at Pendyffryn Hall. Start 10 metres up and right of the base of the buttress below its notional right-hand edge; pruned gorse and a small cairn!
- 32m Climb leftwards up the small rib, then follow short walls up and slightly rghtwards until a ramp on the right gains a tiny ledge near the edge of the buttress. Nut and spike belays.
- 20m Above and left, the first obvious feature of the route so far is a left-slanting crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and continue up grooves on the right to reach the top of the buttress. A short walk gains the main mass. Either; scramble up to gain the main curving ridge and proceed to the summit, or descend slabs on the right to the large tree, and thrash down the bracken and scree to the start.
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Penmaen-bach
Monte Cristallo
48m VD
08-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres down and left of Crystal Edge.
- 30m Climb the wall leftwards to gain a grassy groove. Cross this to reach the rib on the left; and follow the fine slab above to a ledge. Continue up short walls and a left-slanting gangway to a ledge and imaginative spike and nut belays.
- 18m Climb up to a break; cross this and move up the blunt rib above, until a series of gangways lead to the top, keeping to the right of a large block.
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Penmaen-bach
Zoot Groove
10m VD
08-Apr-2011, BJ CLarke (solo)
Start: Looking up from the large tree on the descent, a groove with a flaky left wall is seen cutting up the right side of the steeper right flank of a scrambly rib; start below this groove.
Follow the groove to reach the scrambly rib.
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Penmaen-bach
Traz
9m S
08-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres up and right of Zoot Groove.
A short corner leads to a bulge. Step right to find a series of holds which provide a neat solution to the smooth bulge.
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Penmaen-bach
Anywhere
9m D
05-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The stand-alone North summit of the hill is a fine viewpoint. A walk of 30 metres from the summit cairn in the direction of Llandudno brings a hidden valley into wiew. On its far side is a small but pleasant crag; divided into two sections by a loose corner (O S Ref 748 782). The left-hand section is an easy-angled slab; whilst the right-hand section is a steep wall. Start at the centre of the easy-angled slab below the right-hand of two tiny V-grooves.
Move up, step right, and follow the compact slab to the top. Starting 1 metre right the twin, right-slanting cracks are Erewhany (10m D 05.12.11) Whilst a further 3 metres right, the smooth slab just left of the loose corner gives Yawnhere (9m D 05.12.11).
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Penmaen-bach
Gorse Nip
9m S
12-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Yawnhere at the left side of the right-hand section of crag; just right of a straited wall and below a rib.
4a Climb the left side of the rib on layaways, then finish up the rib on the right.
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Penmaen-bach
Penmaen-bach
10m VD
12-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Gorse Nip at a square-cut groove.
Climb the groove, past a suspect block, step right across Tramp and finish up the V-groove. |
Penmaen-bach
Tramp
11m VD
12-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Penmaen-bachturm below a left-slanting ramp feature.
Follow the ramp system, then up a groove to a line of small overlaps. Skirt these on the left to finish as for Gorse Nip.
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Penmaen-bach
Superheat
8m HS
12-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Tramp.
4a Move up to a higher ramp and continue up a steep groove to an exit rightwards near the top.
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Penmaen-bach
Shacked Up
8m VS
12-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Tramp towards the right-hand side of a short, impending wall.
4b Find the crafty finger-lock in a tiny niche, then swarm up the impending wall to easier ground.
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| Dinbren |
Dinbren > Left Wing > Lower Crag
Lost Property
7m HS
13-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres right of Rock Thief below a steep gullycorner.
4b Climb a steep wall on the right to gain a ramp system. Follow this leftwards to finish up a short corner. |
Dinbren > Left Wing > Lower Crag
Boots Arete
8m HS
13-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for May Day.
4a Step right and climb the arete. |
Dinbren > Left Wing > Lower Crag
Parakeet with Attitude
8m S
13-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Birds Cry.
4a Pull into the slabby groove and follow it pleasantly to the top. |
Dinbren > Left Wing > Lower Crag
Warning
8m HS
13-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Shepherd’s Delight.
4a Climb the corner by mainly using its right wall.
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Dinbren > Left Wing > Lower Crag
Blacksmith
7m S
13-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 15 metres right of Warning is a buttress with a left-curving overhanging flake in its centre. Start at the left side of the buttress below a grassy groove.
4a Gain and climb the grassy groove; better than it looks.
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Dinbren > Left Wing > Lower Crag
Farrier’s Groove
8m VS
13-May-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Blacksmith.
4b Move up, step right and follow the ramp-like grooves; keeping left of the blocky prow at the top.
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Dinbren > Right Wing > Hydrogen Area
Dan Dellion
7m S
13-May-2010, BJ Clarke solo (Re-discovered and dandelions removed!)
Start 7 metres right of Babel Face.
4a Climb the rightwards-trending flake crack.
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| Monk’s Buttress |
Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls
49 Steps
11m D
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 20 metres right of Dig Deep is an impressive cracked pillar of doubtful stability. Start 5 metres right of the cracked pillar below a fine yew tree.
Climb the "steps" leftwards and finish up a short corner.
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Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls
Forty-Niner
9m S
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for 49 Steps.
Climb the wall immediately left of the yew tree and finish up the curving crack above.
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Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls
Half Lode
8m VD
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres right of Forty-Niner at a shallow groove guarded by a half-height overlap; and just left of an arete.
Climb the wall, pull through the overlap and finish up the shallow groove.
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Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls
Gentian
8m HS
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 10 metres right of Minor Problem a half-height ledge has a small bulge with a thin crack on its right below it.
4b Climb the wall and the thin crack to gain the ledge. Finish up the scoop to the left.
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Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls
Wild Mint
9m S
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 22 metres right of Gentian is an inverted V-chimney just left of a large tree; start here.
4a Climb the left side of the chimney and pull onto the grey slab using a superb, but hidden set of pocket holds. Finish up the wall above. The chimney itself gives a classic tussle Mint Mine (8m S 19.07.10)
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Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls > Lower Tier
Underwall
7m S
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Below the broken right-hand end of The Miner’s Walls, a series of grey walls stretch leftwards forming a lower tier. Start in the middle of the first grey wall approximately 20 metres left of the fence.
4a Climb the recessed wall and finish up a tiny V-groove on the left.
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Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls > Lower Tier
Undergroove
8m S
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Underwall.
4a Trend leftwards up a series of grooves, finishing to the left of the top overhang. |
Monk’s Buttress > The Miner’s Walls > Lower Tier
Underflake
8m VD
19-Jul-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 20 metres left of Undergrooves is a bulging, "holdless" grey wall; defined on its right by a flake crack; start here.
Climb the flake crack.
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| Little Orme |
Little Orme > Summit Crags
Copa Crack
8m S
21-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: 25 metres from the trig point atop the Little Orme summit, in the direction of Llandudno is a crag with two distinct sectors. The right-hand sector is a steep little wall; whilst the left-hand sector is a series of disjointed slabs. The steep little wall (RH Sector), terminates at its left end at a cave. Start 15 metres right of the cave at a chockstone-filled crack forming the left side of a pinnacle.
4a Climb the awkward chockstone-filled crack.
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Little Orme > Summit Crags
Copa Wall
6m S
21-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres left of the cave terminating the right-hand sector.
4b Climb the steep wall with interest.
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Little Orme > Summit Crags
Bulbous
10m VD
21-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start in a grassy recess with a floor-level large nut belay and 6 metres above the right end of the disjointed slabs.
Move up right to gain a bulbous nose, pass this to its right and step back left above it, continue to the top. |
Little Orme > Summit Crags
Enormeus
11m D
21-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Bulbous.
Climb directly up the slab above.
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Little Orme > Summit Crags
Copa Slab
11m VD
21-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Enormeus.
Climb the riven slab and smoother slab above.
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Little Orme > Summit Crags
Little Monster Slab
16m VD
21-Oct-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres down and left of Copa Slab.
Climb a short corner to the right of the ivy band; and continue slightly left up the slab and rib.
Additional info:
Okay– not great climbing. But they are the only "easy" routes in the area, and as such may achieve popularity! Its a pleasant spot, with no access issues and a fabulous view!
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Little Orme > Mynydd Penygarreg Quarry
Violets are Blue
13m S
08-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The road (B5115) from Llandudno to Penrhyn Bay becomes a short-lived dual carriageway once over the brow of the hill formed by the Little Orme. Sixty metres down the dual carriageway an opening on the left allows access into a sunny, sheltered, small, slabby quarry. Start at the foot of the first continuous slabby wall at the right end of the quarry; just left of a snapped horizontal tree.
Climb the broad slabby rib and the short, brittle finishing wall.
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Little Orme > Mynydd Penygarreg Quarry
Roses are Red
11m VD
08-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 22 metres left of Violets are Blue on a higher ledge at the left-hand side of the quarry.
Climb a short, red-scarred earthy corner to reach a ledge on the left. Finish up the slabby rib above.
Additional info:
- The OS Ref for the quarry is 816 817
- As there is a patina of loose rock everywhere; it is unlikely that people have climbed here.
- However, recent tree-felling has occurred, so maybe development is imminent?
- The central grey slab looks very promising!
- The descents are prickly nightmares; so abseiling from the trees at the top would seem a goog idea!
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Little Orme > Angel Bay
Esplanade
150m VD
30-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Follow the path to the rim of Angel Bay, but do not desend to the Bay. Follow the exposed fishermen’s path to the right (looking out) to a ridge. Scramble down the ridge to reach a large platform 8m above the sea. This is where the Westy Boulder-hole Traverse starts (Bouldering Guide)!
An entertaining sea-level traverse from Angel Bay into Penrhyn Bay; across the sombre Seaward Wall (shown as Trwyn y Fuwch, O S Ref 819 827 on the map!). Very much in the mode of the Torbay, Devon coasteering expeditions! Low to Mid tide recommended! From the large platform descend a groove to sea-level. Adopt a crab-like posture and begin to traverse leftwards (looking in). The first 45 metres are straightforward and then a chimney is crossed awkwardly. A pleasant 10 metre section then leads to the crux; a 12 metre-long steep wall crossed painfully on sharp barnacles! Continue along the easier walls for 83 metres until ledges are reached. Walk along these and move up a short slab to reach the concrete ruins in Penrhyn Bay. From where a steep path on the left leads up through the grass and bracken to the grassy plateau at the top.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay
Mere Still
14m VD
30-Dec-2010, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres left of the descent groove along the Esplanade traverse; below a circular, shallow cave at 2 metres.
Climb past the cave and up the wall above, trending slightly leftwards near the top. All on sharp, Pembroke-like rock!
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
The Exposed Fisherman
12m VD
08-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1m left of Mere Still below a small hole and tiny overlap at 2 metres. LowMid tide only!
Climb past these features and continue directly. |
Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
That’s Swell
13m VD
08-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1m left of The Exposed Fisherman below a black corner.
Climb the black corner and continue up the wall slightly leftwards to finish up a vague crack; nice climbing!
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Thyme
15m S
08-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres left of That’s Swell below a pinnacle flake at 4 metres.
Gain the pinnacle flake and climb slightly rightwards up the yellow wall above. Climb the brown groove and finish up the wall above.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Barnacle Bale-Out
7m D
14-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: A useful quick escape from the tidal ledges! Start 1m right of Mere Still.
Climb the short wall and straightforward scoop above.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Dances with Seals
17m VS
14-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start one and a half metres left of That’s Swell.
4a Climb the steep, prickly wall and finish up the yellow wall just right of the vague crack of That’s Swell.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Sargasso
15m S
14-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The main feature left of Thyme is a long white-edged ledge at 4 metres. Start 3 metres left of Thyme.
Gain the right end of the white-edged ledge, then follow the flakes on the right; before climbing the shallow groove above to a slightly harrowing grassy finish.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Short Fuse
11m S
14-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: As the Seaward Wall swings around southwards into Penrhyn Bay and just before the short slab at the finish of the long traverse of Esplanade; a wall, marked by two caves rises from a large, circular, scooped ledge (O S Ref 819 826). LowMid tide only! Gain the gun emplacement concrete ruins by descending the steep path from the grassy plateau. Walk towards the right end of the ruins (looking in); and descend the short slab to reach the scooped ledge. The wall is sheltered and receives the sun till 2pm! Start at the left side of the scooped ledge below a slabby, shallow groove leading to the left-hand cave.
Climb the groove to the cave; step left and up to gain the finishing terrace.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Recoil
12m VS
14-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Short Fuse.
4b Climb the wall to the right-hand cave. Move left and climb the unprotected white rib on rounded holds to a rusty stake; move left to finish.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Percussive
10m VD
14-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Recoil.
Climb the groove and continue up the rib on the right; move left and surmount the man-made wall by utilizing the wood sleeper!
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Lemontyde
14m S
17-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres left of Sargasso.
Gain the white-edged ledge and follow the thin crack above, avoiding the normally wet initial section on the left. Continue up the wall to reach the PRE-PLACED ROPE!
Additional info:
As hinted in the description of Sargasso, the finishes of the routes to the left become increasingly broken and grassy with no discernible change in angle! Reluctantly, but with hindsight wisely; i have decided to pre-place a rope to assist with the topping out! The rope can be fixed to nut and cam belays in a small corner 20 metres back along the fishermen’s path.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Prosperous Voyage
19m S
17-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres left of Lemontyde and 3 metres down and left of the white-edged ledge below a left-trending flake line.
Gain the flakes and follow these leftwards to a ledge and a pre-placed rope. Good straightforward climbing in a wonderful situation! |
Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Ripp Tide
15m VS
19-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Thyme.
4b Climb the brown, crinkly wall and finish up the golden wall above via the niche.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay > Seaward Wall
Cormorant Ledge
14m VS
19-Jan-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Lemontyde.
4a Gain the white-edged ledge and continue up the brown wall above; moving left below a slight bulge to reach a pre-placed rope. Which you have wisely placed!
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Little Orme > Angel Bay
Odelisque
11m S
16-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Takes the right arête of The Westy Blowhole. Accessed from the inland exit of the Blowhole, by descending the slabby wall, then contouring leftwards (looking in) to reach a large curvaceous flake below and right of the arête. Lowmid tide!
Climb the barnacle-encrusted scoop and move left to gain the arête proper. Pull through a small overlap, move up, then follow the ramp rightwards to reach the inland Blowhole.
Additional info:
Quite a reasonable Deep Water Solo. Impossible to grade; it depends on if the barnacles are feeling particularly adhesive on the day! The name means "an erotic painting"!
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Little Orme > Angel Bay
Yodel Risque
9m VS
16-Feb-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Odelisque.
4b Climb the tricky right rib of the barnacle-encrusted scoop, and the pleasant white slab above to gain the ramp.
Additional info:
Not a DWS- the curvaceous flake awaits you!
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Little Orme > Angel Bay
Going Cheep
11m VD
25-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: At the far (N) end of the grass plateau crossed on the way to Angel Bay; is a short, south-facing quarried wall. The main feature is a red groove in its centre containing the biggest ring-bolt you’ll ever see (it wasn’t me, honest!). Start 4 metres left of the red groove.
Step up onto the concrete platform and continue up the rib to a steepening (suspect block). pull through the steepening and follow the right edge of the slab above, in a fine position, to the top.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay
Bird Seed
11m S
25-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Going Cheep.
Trend up leftwards and pull over the steepening just left of the borehole. Finish up the groove.
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Little Orme > Angel Bay
St. Gregory
14m D
25-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 12 metres left of Bird Seed and just right of another ring-bolt.
Climb the most continuous sweep of slabs and zig-zag up the more broken final section.
Additional info:
Named after a similar route at Torbay, Devon. In fact, this area is very reminiscent of Long Quarry Point; I’m still searching for another Sanctuary Wall though!
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| Sychnant Pass Area |
Sychnant Pass Area
Pam Dawber
10m D
21-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres left of Dry Throat below a low-angled rib leading up left of a large, quartz-daubed perched block.
Climb the rib and its continuation.
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Sychnant Pass Area
Gagging
10m S
21-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres left of Pam Dawber at a buttress with a thin crack running up the right side of its front face.
Climb the thin crack, through small bulges to the top.
Additional info:
A bit grubby still! But pleasant in the evening sunshine; and only a minute from the car!
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Sychnant Pass Area
Dry Throat
13m VD
21-Mar-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: From the car parks (O S Ref 750 770), just below and West of the summit of the Pass; looking up (East), an outcrop is seen on the right. Pass through the gate in the wall and amble up (60 seconds!). The main feature is an overhanging wall near its right-hand end, terminated on its right by a curving, quartz-marked arête; start here.
Climb the right side of the curving arête, then the arête itself to finish up the straightforward slabs. |
Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
Cuckoo Slab
40m D
01-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Driving down East from the summit of Sychnant Pass (towards Conwy) for 1 km, a minor road on the right (signposted Berthlwyd Hall) leads immediately to a large car park on the right. A walk along the minor road for 75 metres, past several broken slabs, leads to a lane on the right leading to the farmhouse. The first routes are on the large slab above the start of the lane (O S Ref 758 766). Start at the toe of the large slab.
Climb directly up the slab, past a quartz break, to reach stake belays at the top.
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Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
Cuckoo Spit
30m VD
01-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres up and left of Cuckoo Slab.
Climb the slab up and leftwards, then follow the steeper rib between the vegetation to the top.
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Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
Cuckoo Waltz
25m VD
01-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Sixty metres left of Cuckoo Spit is another stretch of slabs. Start at their lowest point.
Climb the short triangular slab, step left and follow the main slab to the top.
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Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
Cooky
25m VD
02-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 9 metres above and left of Cuckoo Waltz.
Climb the slab trending slightly leftwards to finish up a crack immediately left of a small prow comprising suspect blocks.
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Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
Kuckuk Korner
23m VD
02-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres up and left of Cooky.
Climb the slab to reach the foot of a left-facing corner. Step right, and continue up the slab to finish just right of a short, slabby corner.
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Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
Kukri
20m S
02-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres above and left of Kuckuk Korner, at a rib just right of a heathery break.
Climb the right side of the rib to gain the left-facing corner. Follow the rib on the left and storm up the headwall to finish.
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Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
On Hearing
14m VD
02-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 7 metres left of Kukri.
Trend rightwards up the dark slab to a ledge. Step right and follow the golden wall to the top; quite good!
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Sychnant Pass area > Cogwrn Slabs
The First Cuckoo
12m VD
02-Apr-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for On Hearing.
Climb On Hearing for 3 metres, then trend leftwards up the dark slab to the ledge. Finish up the shallow groove above.
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Sychnant Pass area
Cresta Capelulo
12m VD
28-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: From the twin car parks at O S Ref 750 770, a stroll for 40 metres North Westwards along the farm track leads to an imposing cliff of red quartzite overhanging the track. The quartz-encrusted left-hand edge of this cliff is visible from lower down the Pass. Scramble up to a ledge and a metal stanchion below this left-hand edge.
Climb the edge, in a fine position, to the top.
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Sychnant Pass area
Capelulo Slab
11m VD
28-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Cresta Capelulo.
Ascend leftwards up a slab and scoop to a recess. Climb a crack and the slab on its left pleasantly to the top.
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Sychnant Pass area
Little Sir
9m S
27-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: From the twin car-parks (O S Ref 750 770) below the summit of the Pass, a walk of 120 metres South Westwards along the green path leads to the top of a wide shallow gully. On the left (looking out) side of the gully is a buttress. Start on the left flank of this buttress, next to a boulder and below a crack.
Climb the crack to easier ground and the summit.
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Sychnant Pass area
Step White Up
12m S
27-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres down and right of Little Sir, at the toe of the buttress.
Climb the ridge to a bulge, step left, move up, then back right to finish on the ridge.
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Sychnant Pass area
Beach Echo
12m VS
27-Dec-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Step White Up.
4b Move up, then right, and pull awkwardly through a bulge. Trend up rightwards to the headwall, and overcome this by using the flake crack.
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| Penrhyn Bay Quarry |
Penrhyn Bay Quarry > Upper Level
Bleak House
40m S
25-May-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Opposite St. Gregory a grassy incline leads steeply up to the Upper Level of the quarry (O S Ref 816 826). The main features of the right-hand section of the level are huge, red overhangs on the right; whilst on the left side a belt of dark slabs, guarded by a solitary tree, sweep upwards. Start behind the solitary tree.
Move up the slab for a short way, then foot traverse right along a brown shelf, above a short, smooth wall to reach a shallow groove. Up this to a diagonal crack (runners), before stepping right and climbing the grey streak up the slab. Continue up the next grey streak above and left to reach the crumbling upper walls. Climb short slabs leftwards to gain a grassy ramp; follow this rightwards, past a shale band near the top. Mainly straightforward climbing throughout, but serious!
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Penrhyn Bay Quarry > Upper Level
Gradgrind
30m VD
03-Oct-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 60 metres right of Bleak House and 10 metres down and right of the huge red overhangs; where a sweep of white slabs form a rib.
Climb the rib, keeping right of the scruffy groove. At a steepening, move right, then back left to gain the upper slopes; scramble up these to the top. Straightforward slab climbing, but with no meaningful protection!
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| Llandulas Cave Area |
Llandulas Cave Area
Bonfire Ridge
9m D
05-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Fifty metres right of the Forgotten Sun area, a large, ledgy quarried wall continues rightwards to end at a stepped ridge (Bonfire Ridge); where the crag changes angle to give a final, short brittle wall. Park as for the bolted areas, at the top of New Road turn right then left then immediately left again into a small quarry. A steep path on the right leads up to the aforementioned stepped ridge (5 mins!). Start at the foot of the stepped ridge.
Climb the stepped ridge.
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Llandulas Cave Area
Vanity
13m S
10-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres down and left of Bonfire Ridge at a vague, steepening rib.
Follow the rib to finish up a tiny groove in the rib itself.
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Llandulas Cave Area
Woodey
20m S
10-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 22 metres left of Woodey opposite a pine tree and below four short walls.
Climb the four short walls awkwardly, taking the final one by its right nose. Scramble up rightwards, then climb the yellow, left-slanting groove to an earthy finish, but good trees above.
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Llandulas Cave Area
Rattling the Piranhas
45m HS
10-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Fifty metres left of Woodey a wall and arete seem to continue directly up to the top of the crag. Start just left of the high arête below a subsidiary rib, cairn! Descent:- Either abseil off the pine trees; or walk to the right (looking in) end of the crag and descend a short polished wall.
4a Move up leftwards and follow the slabby right flank of the subsidiary rib, before climbing the rib itself to ledges below a small tower. Climb the groove just left of the small tower to finish up a short wall. Poor bush belay, or pull up a rope.
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Llandulas Cave Area
The Sun Couloir
22m HS
17-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 16 metres left of Rattling the Piranhas at a wide couloir behind three, dead tree trunks.
4a Climb the right-hand side of the couloir for 3 metres. Move left and continue up the couloir to below a steep corner. Step right and follow a rib; before moving rightwards along the shelves to finish up a short corner.
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Llandulas Cave Area
Wintour’s Leap
18m S
17-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres left of The Sun Couloir and 2 metres right of the man-made wall, at a thin crack.
4a Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Follow the arête above to a ledge below the headwall. Step right and climb the shallow groove just left of the rib, to a final move right and a finish on scree!
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Llandulas Cave Area
Stadamex
9m VD
22-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Fifty metres below Bonfire Ridge, the small quarry passed on the approach is very terraced. However, at its left end is a more compact wall. Start at this wall below a large sprawling pine tree on the quarry top.
Follow the pleasant ramp up leftwards to finish just left of the pine.
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Llandulas Cave Area
Ash Gate
10m HS
22-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of Stadamex at a clearing in the floor-level vegetation.
4a Climb the wall on sloping holds, then trend leftwards to finish awkwardly up a borehole corner.
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Llandulas Cave Area
Ox Rib
6m S
22-Nov-2011, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Twenty metres right of Ash Gate is a tiny red corner with a dwarf pine at its base. Start just right of these features.
Climb the wall and rib.
Additional info:
A word of caution…..These nine routes, despite their modest grade are serious–there is scarcely an adequate runner between them! |
