New Routes – North Devon & Cornwall

Pitch descriptions:
Climb easily up the crack (as for Red O), the traverse diagonally right, at the lower of the two “tram” lines, passing two poor peg placements (removed), the second just above the lip of the arch. Climb straight up on small holds to finish at an overhanging block. Scramble carefully up mixed terrain to the crest of the ridge.

Additional info:
On sight. Two poor pegs, placed on lead (removed)

Pitch descriptions:
50m, 4c. Climb the edge of the slab at first then use small holds on the right (peg removed) and continue to a shaly ledge. Move left across the corner and climb diagonally leftwards, joining the last few metres of Silk, to its peg and nut belays.

Additional info:
Only one peg runner and one small wire protect the main section of the route

Pitch descriptions:
The steep looking corner crack on the right, at the back of the narrow zawn. Upon first appearance this crack seems to be some fist jamming pump fest, until viewed from close up where the line does not seem so aggressive. Pleasantly steep for the grade, good rock and solid protection throughout. A choice of two exits can be made at the top the left seems more fitting for the sustained direct feel to the route, right is easier. More routes are possible around this area

Additional info:
Clean onsight.

Pitch descriptions:
50ft, 4b.  Start just left of the “perched slab”, and follow a thin crack up for approx. 10ft, before moving right under the slab.  Edge your way up with little to no gear to an unstable flake with good gear just below the boulder bridge.  Pull over onto this (crux) to good holds and the safety of the last part of “The Ridge of Kazad-Dum”.  Fix a sling runner and follow the ridge up to a belay stake at the top.

Additional info:
Clean Onsight, Unrepeated

Pitch descriptions:
Climb up a groove into the crack, following it over a small bulge to the top. Good gear throughout, but with some strenuous bridging moves

Additional info:
Onsight. No fixed gear.

Pitch descriptions:
The route starts 6 feet to the left of The Masterdon climbing a quartz vein through an area of ‘rotten’ granite to a white hanging slab. The gear is surprisingly good throughout the route although care is required on the crumbly stuff!

Additional info:
This route has probably been climbed before as it is such an obvious line but no record can be found

Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch (approx 50ft), 4b.Probably climbed previously but not as a named route.

Additional info:
Lead after one top-rope ascent.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb steeply trending slightly R to a small ledge on the arête of the chimney line. Go straight up the slab above then take the obvious L-trending line to a steep but well-protected exit groove. Belays above the grass slope.

Additional info:
On sight.

Pitch descriptions:
Climb steeply to a more broken section at 12m where good gear can be fixed before launching up the steep, L-trending weakness, which leads finally to the top of the chimney/gully. Belays above the grass slope.

Additional info:
Some cleaning by abseil

Pitch descriptions:
1 40ft 5a Bridge up until the groove on the L can be gained. Break out of this and up slabby rock to belay at a bollard.
2 90ft 5b Follow the ‘shisty’ groove up R-wards till steep climbing gains an uncomfortable niche. Swing R along a wide crack then climb directly to the top.

Pitch descriptions:
From the top of the block follow the obvious vertical overlap till it ends. Traverse 4m L to a vertical crack then climb the L-facing flake/edge on the R, going straight up for 10m then trending R till it eases and blocky ground leads to belays on the slope above.

Additional info:
On sight

Pitch descriptions:
Move up on to a ledge then trend R up the buttress till bigger holds lead straight up into a bay. Step L on to the nose and reach good finishing holds.

Additional info:
The groove L of Moonrock is also Severe

Pitch descriptions:
An excellent pitch but unsuitable for those with a cavalier attitude towards rock and/or protection. Follow the groove to a good wire where the crack ends at 15m. Move R to a large jug (Friend 3) and climb steeply over the bulge into the upper groove (stainless peg – not brilliant but very welcome!). Climb the groove till it is possible to swing L along a shelf to another steep groove leading to the summit of the tower.

Additional info:
Abseil inspected in 2008

Pitch descriptions:
4b An eliminate line that has a good boulder prob. Start climbs the blank wall on the right of the crag to a large ledge. Step left and climbs through to the shallow corner at the top. Overhanging heather to finish.

Additional info:
Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass)

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 5a An awkward little climb that takes the arête to the left of the corner. Climb the arête in its entirety some gear available.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1 4a Climbs the corner and step system

Pitch descriptions:
pitch 1 5a Start on the arête just left of the borehole & BBB. Climb the arête until standing on a large foothold, gear in thin horizontal crack. Continue up the arête to finish up steps easily.

Pitch descriptions:
5a A delightful little climb that climbs the wall to the right of the obvious corner (two pegs in situ). Start below & just right of a ledge at about 12” climb onto the ledge then step right and climb the very shallow corner to the top.

Additional info:
Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass).

Pitch descriptions:
The route climbs a small areteslab which protrudes from the rear of a small bay prior to the stack. The arete can be identified as it has a waterfall located behind it. The route has its name from a rather smelly dolphin washed up a few feet away.. the route follows the overhang up and around the slab moving leftwards after the overhang ends. The route ends abruptly as does the rock. Descent was via a see-saw abseil from a ‘Mud Mushroom’ and Nut key hammered into a crack with large hex!!! (would not trust the in situ gear!)

Additional info:
Descent was via a see-saw absiel from a ‘Mud Mushroom’ and Nut key hammered into a crack with large hex!!! (would not trust the in situ gear!)

Pitch descriptions:
5a The striking corner situated in the centre of the main wall. Climb the corner in its entirety, belay on the pedestal (thread).

Additional info:
No second pitch to date; retreat was via poor thread on belay

Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the obvious corner where the slab meets a wall. Climb this in its entirety. At the top step up and right and follow the easiest and most secure line to the top (if there is one!). An ice axe may prove useful at this point. Belay using your imagination!

Additional info:
Belays were from a car driven and parked up the footpath using a 60m abseil rope trailed down to the necessary area!

Pitch descriptions:
Start 10’ right of the corner of dead dolphin arête below a break in the overhang and a large pocket. band of lighter coloured rock. Large loose holds lead onto the slab above, following into the corner as for the previous route.

Additional info:
Descent via see-saw absiel, prayer, mud bolard and a nut key placed on origanal ascent with large Hex!

Pitch descriptions:
This route climbs the center of the slab via the obvious line of weekness. Some gear can be found in the obvious crack.

Additional info:
One peg was placed 10 feet from the top in a very thin horizontal crack.

Pitch descriptions:
This route is an eliminate. The route climbs the slab to the right of 1906 taking the blanker section of wall between the crack line and the grass. Two pegs used on first ascent. The first peg at about 20 feet (in situ) and one aproximately 10 feet from the top (missing). Using the crack of 1906 will bring the grade of this route down. Treat all pegs with care!

Additional info:
Two pegs used on first ascent. The first peg at about 20 feet (in situ) and one aproximately 10 feet from the top (missing). Using the crack of 1906 will bring the grade of this route down. Treat all pegs with care!

Pitch descriptions:
Not a hard climb! The route takes the line to the right of Black ice climbing the obvios crack groove. This then climbs the grass aboe finishing at the overflow pipe!

Additional info:
Nut key useful for cutting steps.

Pitch descriptions:
This is artificial and eliminate squeezing the most out of a small crag. The route climbs the slab immediately to the right of Overflow crack. The route climbs the slab through the grass following the rock up to its highest point. The route leaves the crack to the right for another route. The crux of the climb comes when the rock runs into grass. on the first ascent a nut key was used to cut steps to aid upward prgression. A large grass cabbage makes for a useful spike runner!!

Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch, 75ft22m, 5a. Approach as normal for Vicarage Cliff, down the steep descent on south end of the beach, start as for “Crazy Paving” at the foot of the grove to the right of “Harpoon”, follow the groove until the end, past the undercut section, to about 40ft12m, then break left onto the slab next to “Harpoon” to finish up the small flake line. Finishes approx 10ft3m right of the top of “Harpoon”. Requires small gear. Loose rock and breaking holds from near the top of the grove to the top.

Additional info:
No fixed gear used, all placed on the on-sight lead, no known repeats, seconded by Cameron, no falls.

Pitch description:
Move diagonally left but keep right of the small buttress. Traverse left and up through and partly underneath a slight overhang of the buttress (crossing Daydream) and keep traversing diagonally left (some loose rock) and straight up for the last 5 meters. Backing up belay using metal stake higher up advisable.

Additional info:
Quite some loose rock. On sight, ground up without inspection.

Pitch descriptions:
In the centre of the slab is an overlapping nose at about 10m. Climb directly past this to the top of the slab.

Additional info:
Solo

Pitch descriptions:
Starting at the right hand side of the slab, climb the rib and slab above before trending left to the top. Decent compact rock that deteriorates slightly as height is gained and difficulties ease.

Additional info:
Solo

Pitch descriptions:
6m left of the arête, before a recessed arch, climb a thin crack for 5m, trending left to better holds. Further cracks lead more easily up and left to join Fletcher at the top of the slab.

Additional info:
Solo

Pitch Description:
Climb up the right hand side of the black slab in the corner. Where the holds dissappear (or break off in your hand), place the good gear and follow the crumbling looking ledges up to the right. Come out over the edge of the slab to rejoin Queen Jane’s slab which can be relatively easily raced up to the good belay at the top.

So now only the middle pitch of Jolly Hell could be new as it shares pitch 1 with Jolly Roger.

Pitch Description:
1. Rad Minns- 35m, 4b Do the first pitch of Jolly Roger- Starting from the start of Wreckers Slab, climb diagonally left up the slab. Before the groove, move left over the edge of the slab, and traverse across grass and loose rock to the base of the furthest left, bottomless slab. Belay using knife blades and small cams at the base of the slab.
2. Dave Marsh- 50m, 4b. Set off up the middle of the slab, following the line of the grassy crack, moving right onto the right hand side of the slab after about 10m. Continue upwards on sparse protection and suspect rock, using a series of high rock-overs. Staying to the right of the slab using small rising edges to gain height, you will eventually find solid rock on your right, about 50m from the first belay. Pegs (not in-situ) and large cams form a welcome solid belay.
3. Dave Marsh- 45m, no technical grade. A few metres from the belay, enter an incredibly loose groove and using the solid holds of the right side, make upwards progress amongst reasonable gear. On exiting the groove, scramble upwards and slightly right, to gain the left hand edge of the ridge above Wreckers Slab. Belay on large blocks.
Finally scramble along the ridge and back to the cliff top, as you would for the other routes on this wall.

Additional info:
On-sight, clean trad lead. 60m ropes required to reach belays. Helmets are also strongly advised. Pegs are needed (in addition to trad gear) for belays and possibly runners; depending on the rock condition at the time. None are in-situ on the route at the time of writing. With reference to the grade; given the sparse protection and the loose nature of the rock, I felt that HVS was the only possible adjective grade that could couple the 4b technicality of the moves. Hopefully this grade will reflect the fact that the route is relatively technically straightforward, yet still a serious undertaking; as we found out after taking 8 hours to complete it, mainly in the dark!

Pitch descriptions:
Climb the rightward trending cracks to a ledge then continue on tram lines to the top. Scramble back down rightwards (if facing in)

Additional info:
Trad

Pitch descriptions:
After a steep start through the roof, follow the groove in its entirety. Wire and friend belays well back.

Additional info:
On sight. Generally sound rock with reasonable protection, but some care needed near the top.

Pitch descriptions:
A satisfying climb, following a strong natural line. Above the belay at the end of the brown seam is an obvious stepped groove, with a block of paler rock at its base. Climb onto the pale block, then pull over a small overlap into the groove. Follow this to the top

Additional info:
Onsight solo

Pitch descriptions:
A spectacular route, giving steep and airy climbing through intimidating territory. Similar to The Moon, at South Stack, easier, but just as exposed! From the belay, climb into a small niche on the left, then pull up into the larger one above. Arrange good protection in the back of the niche, then kneel and pray to your god that you have the strength to gain the good holds above. Make a steep pull up, in a spectacular position, to gain a line of holds running leftwards. Follow these, to stand on a small, exposed ledge at a point where a yellow-lichen stained slab comes in from the left. Make an exposed pull onto the slab above, to finish direct.

Additional info:
Onsight

Pitch descriptions:
A very nice route, tricky start with a nice finish on big flakes. Crux move is very technical and requires good foot placement and strength. Overall Route is pumpy. Need to get placement on the arête to stop a pendulum effect if you were to fall while on the crux.

Additional info:
Some good placement and some bold patches. Gear needed, a range from micro nuts bigger, varying size of hexes and a mid range of cams, slings are useful for a thread at the beginning and near the top out. Better to do with two ropes so when you get around the arête there is less rope drag. There is three decent anchor points at the top for belay.

Bruce

Date of ascent: 19/06/2016
Length/grade/stars: HVS 5a **
Climbers: James Forbes, Martin Cathrow

Start location:

Just East of Green Lanes cliff, on the same section as Rangoon. Obvious crackline far left of the crag.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the obvious crack all the way to the top.

Additional info:

Good block belay at the top.

Comment

This is really a comment on SW Climbs vol 2 page 166. Approach:

Pat Littlejohn may well climb down the rocky arête to gain the base of the climb but one look would give the average VS climber a heart attack! Actual descent is as follows. The rocky arête can be identified by a belay stake in the grass just below the edge of the cliff. Go past this rocky arête and through the gate. Head seawards and look for a vague path heading left (south). Follow this heading towards a ruined fisherman’s hut on a grassy headland below, through spikey bushes and at times loose scree. Long trousers, made of a thick material, recommended and leather gardening gloves for when you involuntarily grab the spikey bushes! At the hut a short down climb (rope in place July 2016) leads to the boulder beach. Wrecker’s Slab has the first two belays in place (twin pegs). The first stance is not really on the edge but in a subsiduary groove to the left of the edge.

Still has some loose holds, care and attention required. At the top of the slab it is worth running a final pitch along the rocky arete to a stake belay (in place July 2016).

Push on Through

Date of ascent: 26/10/2016
Length/grade/stars: 30m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of The Masterdon.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow the veins up and rightwards to a shallow niche below steeper rock. Make an awkward move up to gain the upper vein, which is followed to ledges. Meander up the broken wall to reach a stake belay on the left.

Non Linear

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start as for Fine Line.

Pitch descriptions:

Move up and follow the crystalline ramp rightwards below the steep upper wall to the right edge. Easier ground lies just above.

Line Out

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Bubble Trouble on top of a blunt pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make a steep pull into the right-hand of two grooves; continue up it and the rib on the right until good ledges on the right can be gained.

Jane Grey

Length/grade/stars: 35m D

Start location:

Start as for Queen Jane.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow Queen Jane to the roof, traverse right and pass the roof on its right-hand side; before finishing up the grey slab. Nice climbing, must have been climbed before!

Half-Baked Alaska

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Discretion.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a shallow crunchy groove and the white vein above.

Tribological

Length/grade/stars: 28m S

Start location:

Ten metres left (facing in) of the open gully used in the approach to Voyage of Faith etc (CC Website!), is an impending wall. The wall is bounded to its right by right-slanting cleft with a notable constriction at 6 metres.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the cleft as elegantly as possible to reach ledges overlooking the open descent gully. Continue rightwards to an optional belay in a shallow cave below a steep groove. Follow the rib on the right and the small facet above, moving slightly right to finish.

Hallows Edge

Length/grade/stars: 14m D

Start location:

Six metres left (facing out) of the hidden ramp used on the approach to Voyage of Faith etc (CC Website!), is a dark gully. Abseil down the outside of this to gain a ledge on the left (facing out) of the gully (spike and nut belays).

Pitch descriptions:

Stride across the gully and traverse a slab leftwards to reach an attractive rib. Follow this in a nice position to the top.

Ferrous

Date of ascent: 02/11/2016
Length/grade/stars: 14m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Follow the approach to Coastguard Cliff down the easy-shelving slabs. To reach the ledges proper a short down-climb is necessary via a little rib. Ten metres right of this rib the rocks above become more continuous forming a wall whose top section has a bright red colour and contains a left-trending faultline. Start below this feature.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Tiptoe leftwards up a small ramp for a couple of metres, then climb the left side of the lower wall, making tricky moves to gain a ledge just right of a small prow of rock. Pull up onto the red wall and finish up the rusty left-trending faultline. A useful little climb, being sunny and easy of access!

Outland

Date of ascent: 07/11/2016
Length/grade/stars: 28m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Follow the path down from the Coastguard Station towards St Agnes Head. When 20 metres short of the blocks forming the Head itself; scramble down leftwards (facing out) to high tide level. Continue leftwards (facing in) until the ledges end and the rocks steepen, belay here.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 10m Traverse leftwards just above high tide level to reach a comfortable hidden ledge below a black and white groove.
2. 18m Climb the black and white groove to a shallow cave. Step left and finish up a left-slanting corner. A straightforward climb in a tremendous position!

Song at Twilight

Date of ascent: 11/11/2016
Length/grade/stars: 24m VD

Start location:

150 metres right (facing out) of St Agnes Head itself is a smaller headland gained by descending grass and earth slopes. The cliff below the headland is rather broken but is crowned with a short yellow ridge at its top. Keep right (facing out) of the short yellow ridge and scramble down little rocky bluffs to gain grassy ledges and slightly further the slabby cliff top. 30 metres right (facing out) of here an attractive dark buttress is clearly visible. Walk rightwards along a terrace towards this buttress, until a shallow horizontal cave is reached (cairn!). From here abseil directly down a groove, which limits the right-hand side (facing in) of the buttress, to small ledges at high tide level; start here!

Pitch descriptions:

Move up and left for 7 metres to gain a clean-cut groove in the right edge of the dark buttress. Climb the groove with pleasure to ledges and the top.

Bird in the Hand

Date of ascent: 14/11/2016
Length/grade/stars: 22m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 4 metres below and right of Alpine Departure and just left of a left-facing corner crack leading to a large ledge at half-height on the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the corner crack awkwardly and follow it to the large ledge (optional belay). From just left of the yellow scar trend leftwards up the upper wall to finish up a groove immediately right of the arête.

Additional info:

There was no trace of a ‘scramble down the crest’, an abseil is required!

Date of ascent: 20/11/2016

Outer Limit

Length/grade/stars: 33m S

Start location:

Start as for Outland (CC Website!)

Pitch descriptions:

1. 18m Follow Outland to the hidden comfortable ledge, but continue at the same level for 8 metres to reach a large ledge at high tide level.
2. 15m Above, the main features are; an impending crystalline wall on the right, a tapering groove leading to an overhanging crack in the centre and a grey wall on the left. Climb the grey wall to a bulge, overcome this by a tiny groove on its left. and finish up a right-trending ramp.

Date of ascent: 28/11/2016

Philanthropist

Length/grade/stars: 21m S

Start location:

Approach as for Song at Twilight (CC Website)

Pitch descriptions:

4a Takes the line of the abseil descent. Climb the left side of the groove, then divert over to the right side at half-height, before finishing up the straightforward and drier upper groove. Interesting!

Date of ascent: 29/11/2016

Florizelle

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS

Start location:

Approach as for Song at Twilight (CC Website) to the slabby cliff edge. Ten metres left (facing out) and a few metres below the short yellow ridge a small cairn indicates the abseil location. Position the rope slightly towards the left (facing out). The abseil leads to a niche 3 metres above high tide level and below a fine slabby wall, with a bulbous prow at its top.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Traverse leftwards along twin cracks to gain a recess. From the top left-hand side of the recess follow the thin crack which trends leftwards to the bounding ridge. Finish more easily up the broad ridge. Quality climbing!

Thwacked Rib

Length/grade/stars: 30m S

Start location:

Ten metres right (facing out) of the abseil point for Song at Twilight etc (CC Website), the terrace ends at a metal spike driven in behind a pink block. An abseil to seaward from the metal spike (back it up!) reaches a sloping terrace at high tide level (not in heavy seas!); start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Move leftwards up the terrace for 4 metres, traverse left and climb a short greasy corner to gain a niche formed by a recent rockfall. Pull steeply out of the niche and continue up the grooves above until stopped by a short impending pink wall. Step right to a ledge, move diagonally rightwards to a block; before a final rightwards traverse reaches easier ground in the vicinity of the metal spike.

Flickering Shadows

Length/grade/stars: 25m VD

Start location:

Approach as for Song at Twilight etc (CC Website) and belay at the foot of the abseil.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse left at barnacle level for 6 metres to gain a sloping ledge below the steep lower section of the rib forming the right edge of the dark buttress. Climb the left side of the rib, and a short groove on the left which leads to ledges and the top. Exquisite climbing!

Picardy

Date of ascent: 08/01/2017
Length/grade/stars: 27m S
Climbers: B J Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Flickering Shadows (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Flickering Shadows to the small sloping ledge below the rib defining the right edge of the dark buttress. Step left 1 metre and climb up to below a short, blank narrowing groove. Continue up just left of this feature, pull through a small overlap and the steep wall above to easier ground and the top.

Geriatric’s Traverse

Date of ascent: 18/01/17
Length/grade/stars: 60m HS
Climbers: Dave Viggers, Bob Watson (alts)

Start location:

A fun route, on perfect rock, in keeping with the light hearted nature of the routes on the main cliff. The route traverses the long slab bounding the northern side of Lucky Hole, staying above it’s undercut base and, obviously, below the cliff top. Start at the extreme right of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 30m 4b. Climb up to runners, then traverse left, easily at first, to a smoother section. Cross this, crux, to a groove, then shortly after a hanging stance.
2. 30m. 4a. Continue in the same line, gradually dropping to high tide level at the end of the slab.

Additional info:

Originally climbed in the opposite direction, but described as above to avoid any down climbing.

Pastoral

Length/grade/stars: 30m S

Start location:

Approach as for Flickering Shadows (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Flickering Shadows to the small sloping ledge below the rib. Follow the left side of the rib for 3 metres, then make an ascending leftwards traverse to reach the small overlap of Picardy. Move left below the overlap as it curves leftwards, on diminishing holds, to gain a good foothold on the exposed left edge of the buttress. Climb the short steep headwall, just right of the edge, on large holds and finish up the slabs above.

Date of ascent: 18/02/2017

The Menin Gate

Length/grade/stars: 32m VS

Start location:

Approach as for Flickering Shadows (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow Flickering Shadows to the small sloping ledge below the rib. Step left and descend slightly to follow a foot traverse line along a break to a position just right of the left edge of the buttress. Move up, then leftwards to gain a ledge below a bulge on the edge. Pull directly over the bulge and follow the right-hand side of the edge to where Pastoral comes in from the right. Gain the good foothold above and follow the edge directly via the cosy niche to reach the finishing slabs.

Stick with Me

Date of ascent: 24/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 45m HVS 5a *
Climbers: Paul Donnithorne, Emma Alsford

Start location:

Start at the top of pitch 1 of Last Exit to St Agnes. The same starting point of Demerara.

Pitch descriptions:

A reasonable half-height traverse of The Teflon Slab. Traverse right under the overlap across the Teflon Slab until moves right and up lead to the large block belay on the slope. Reasonable protection and a pleasant way to exit the crag.

Date of ascent: 04/12/2017

Le Fanu

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

To the left (facing out) of Morwenna Slabs a row of 6 rock teeth branch out seawards from the vicinity of the waterfall. The first routes are on the fifth tooth (second leftwards from the most seawards tooth!). This tooth has a prominent yellow block forming an upper prow on its north side. Below and left of the block is a short V-groove cutting through a small bulge. Start 2 metres left of the V-groove below a small niche (mid-tide and below!).

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the niche and trend leftwards up the initial wall to a sloping ramp. Finish up the shallow groove in the yellow wall above, taking care with the rock.

Xanthus

Length/grade/stars: 16m D

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Le Fanu below the V-groove

Pitch descriptions:

Make pleasant moves up the V-groove then trend leftwards to a ledge. Move up and rightwards to finish up the curving crack defining the left side of the yellow block.

Additional info:

On Morwenna Slabs, the seaward slab has collapsed, leaving the top of the landward slab in a bric-a-brac state!

Date of ascent: 16/12/2017

Celadon

Length/grade/stars: 13m VD

Start location:

Twenty metres left of le Fanu (5th Tooth!), and roughly in the centre of the north face of the 4th Tooth is a wide break; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the break and the steeper ground above to finish up an indefinite groove.

Millarca

Length/grade/stars: 13m S

Start location:

Start immediately right of Celadon

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the left-trending slab to a ledge. Continue up a shallow corner to a roof, pull over and gain the top.

Carmilla

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Millarca and just left of the right edge of the 4th Tooth.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make a tricky step up from the right end of a sloping slab to gain the wall. From the ledge above, finish up the right edge of the tooth.

Crimson

Date of ascent: 16/12/2017
Length/grade/stars: 12m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

To the right (facing out) of the Yeolmouth Waterfall are three obvious, short, S-facing slabs. Start below the left edge of the middle slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb just right of the edge and pull through a small bulge. Continue to a narrow foot-ledge and finish up the edge.

Additional info:

Just left, the dark streak on the textured left-hand slab gives Cellulite (7m S 4b Clarke 16.12.17). Whilst 10 metres further left a grey rib proves tempting and delightful Wattle (7m D Clarke 16.12.17). The blank-looking wall just left is Daub (7m S 4c Clarke 16.12.17).

Anywhichway

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Looking seaward from the in-situ rope at the base of the approach are a group of 5 fins compacted together to form a kind of island (suggested name for this area, The Island?). The main features of the first fin (easily spotted!), are an attractive grey lower slab and yellow headwall divided by a quartz-fringed break. Immediately left and set back slightly is another slab forming fin number 2. Start in the centre of this second fin at a small rock pool in a recess.

Pitch descriptions:

Trend leftwards up the thin cracks, then climb more direct, finishing via a small A-shaped alcove.

Colcis

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start as for Anywhichway.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb leftwards up the thin cracks for 4 metres, step right and meander up the seemingly blanker sections of the slab.

Terabethia

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Start just right of Colcis.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the fine right-trending thin crack in its entirety.

Genki Dene

Length/grade/stars: 16m VS

Start location:

Start 10 metres right of Terabethia below the grey slab on fin number 1. Five metres right of the left edge of the fin and immediately right of a rock pool.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the left-trending cracks, before following the right side of the edge and making a thin move to gain the quartz-fringed break. Follow the broken left edge of the headwall to the top with care.

Additional info:

Particularly on this fin, the summit ridge and rear (north) wall contain large amounts of loose material, be wary when scrambling around!
The name means ‘take care’ (Japanese)! !

Mysterious Island

Length/grade/stars: 17m VS

Start location:

Start as for Genki Dene.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb directly up the grey slab to the break, continue up the headwall to finish up a thin, quartz-marked crack.

Maracaibo

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Immediately behind fin 2 is fin 3; marked by a bald slab and a jagged groove to its left. Just left again is fin 4, with more jagged grooves. Fin 5 is further left again, and is the most seaward fin. It is graced by an attractive, slim, right-facing groove towards its left-hand side. Just left of this groove is a light grey slab marked by lines of quartz. Start 4 metres right of the left edge of fin 5, below the light grey slab marked by lines of quartz.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Meander up the slab using the various cracks to gain a shallow recess near the left edge of the slab, finish up the edge.

Gozo Groove

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Maracaibo below a left-trending ramp-line leading to the slim, right-facing groove.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the ramp-line and continue up the groove. Neat, elegant climbing!

Additional info:

This area may become popular, it’s a kind of jumbled up Vicarage Cliff. The routes are all S-facing on reasonable rock, and the mid-Winter sun reaches them at 11-30am, climbing should be available for 8 hours around low tide given reasonable seas! However, descent will usually be made by abseil or scrambling down the north sides of the fins, there is loose ground here and care must be taken!

Neue Jahres Tag Konzert

Length/grade/stars: 14m D

Start location:

Forty metres left (north) of the remains of Morwenna Slabs and to seaward are a series of three north-facing slabs, running south to north (suggested name for this area, Triple Slabs?). The slab furthest north consists of easy-angled lower slabs leading to a steeper upper section. Start towards the left side of the slab below a small roof at the top of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

Amble up the slabs and pass the roof to its right.

Wiener Philharmoniker

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Neue Jahres Tag Konzert.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the steeper slabs and from the left-slanting crack in the headwall, step right and make thin moves to the top.

Waltzer

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres left (facing out), the middle slab has a shallow cave just left of centre, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb just left of the cave, step right above it, and finish direct up the thin cracks.

Triple Time

Length/grade/stars: 17m S

Start location:

Ten metres left (facing out) is the south slab, the one nearest Morwenna Slabs. Its main feature is a left-to-right diagonal line. Start below the left end of this feature.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step up to a thin crack and make a brisk rightwards traverse to reach a ramp. Follow this and continue rightwards to the edge of the slab. Make a tricky step down onto the back wall and belays.

Oom Pah Pah

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Triple Time at smooth cracks (mid-tide and below!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step across the rock pool and climb the smooth cracks to the ramp. Finish up the headwall.

Molar

Length/grade/stars: 13m VD

Start location:

Start immediately left of Celadon

Pitch descriptions:

Climb leftwards up the flakes to the ledge. Make an awkward pull up into a groove above and slightly left, follow this on large holds.

Vampry Lovers

Length/grade/stars: 16m VD

Start location:

Start a metre right of Xanthus at the next break.

Pitch descriptions:

Take the break and the steepening groove above to below the jutting yellow block. Move right and follow, with care, the short, shattered groove just right of the yellow block to the top.

As If By Magic

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

On Fin 5 start 6 metres right of Gozo Groove at the lower of two right-slanting cracklines.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow the lower of the right-slanting cracklines and finish up the quartz-plastered ramp. Sustained and fine climbing; when one set of holds runs out, another set magically appears!

Aulide

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of As If By Magic and just inside the wide cleft.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left-trending cracks, cross As If By Magic and stretch for the top.

Twirler

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Waltzer at a shallow recess below a short groove protected by a bulge.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull through the bulge and climb the short groove to the summit ridge; follow this leftwards to the summit.

Additional info:

The summit gave a superb viewpoint to watch many tons of rock sweep down the lower section of the XS route Breakaway on the immense Henna Cliff opposite!!!

Sheridan’s Slab

Length/grade/stars: 16m VD

Start location:

On the south side of the Carmilla tooth is a fine, easy-angled slab (the descent!). Just left of this on the sidewall a gangway/slab slants up leftwards; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the gangway/slab with interest, especially at the narrows, to finish as for Carmilla. Take care with the protection!

Seaforth

Length/grade/stars: 20m D

Start location:

Fifteen metres right of the le Fanu tooth is the sixth and most seaward tooth. Start at a rock pool below its north face. Mid-tide and below!

Pitch descriptions:

Amble rightwards up the ramp to reach the edge and follow this to the top.

Highlander

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Starr as for Seaford on 6th Tooth.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the ramp of Seaforth rightwards to 2 metres short of the edge. Make a stiff pull up a flake and continue past a small scoop, to a delicate finish up a smooth wall.

Sour Grapes of Wrath

Length/grade/stars: 18m D

Start location:

In common with the 4th and 5th teeth, the south side of the 6th (Seaforth) tooth is an easy-angled slab. But here the slab is slightly steeper and smoother; offering two pleasant, padding-style outings. The main feature here is a tall cave. Start to the right of the cave at the centre of the main slab below a pronounced overlap at 10 metres.

Pitch descriptions:

Trend up rightwards skirting the right end of the overlap; where the slab tapers away, step left and follow the upper slab to the summit ridge.

Footsie

Length/grade/stars: 17m D

Start location:

Start as for Sour Grapes of Wrath.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb straight up the thin cracks and move over the overlap just left of its lowest point. Trend leftwards up the upper slab to the top.

Baggy Point > Slab Cove

Route Comment: Heart of the Sun

01-Jan-1970,
P2 of this route really is dreadful now. The topo in South West Climbs vol2 (pages 61/62) is complete dross and the description poor/ambiguous. The description currently [2020-06-28] on ukclimbing.com (different to the published West Country Climbs book) is much better: 2) 5a, 50m. Climb up the right-leaning diagonal crack a little way [2m] to a thin break which is climbed [delete: up] leftwards to below a long, loose and grassy groove at the left end of a diagonal overlap (belay possible). Climb the right arete of the groove and finish with care. 2a) 5c, 50m. A harder, but loose and serious finish is possible by continuing up the diagonal crack to just short of the vegetated corner, from where a very loose and serious traverse left under the diagonal overlap can be made to join the finish as described. Square brackets [] are my edits. The second pitch (either way) is currently pretty vegetated/loose/serious/unpleasant.