Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.
PLEASE NOTE: Abseil stakes are NOT to be placed on the grass slope above the descents. Lundy is a SSSI and the approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. If we are to continue enjoying the very good relationship we have with Lundy and the Landmark Trust then climbers are requested not place any further stakes or leave unnecessary abseil slings in place.
Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
The Devil’s Slide Area > The Devil’s Slide
Route Comment: Satan’s Slip
01-Jan-1970,
Comment by Martin Hore
I remembered slightly better protection possibilities on this from my previous lead around 15 years ago. Possibly something has broken off. After the first just about adequate gear placements at around 10m I found only two further placements – a micro cam and a micro nut – neither of which gave any confidence. The top third was completely unprotected. I climbed solidly, but was quite scared in retrospect contemplating the consequences of a slip. I won’t be leading it again. (Possibly being 67 has something to do with that). I think the seriousness of the pitch deserves stressing with a grade two notches out from standard. Either E2 5a or possibly E1 4c (it’s difficult to say exactly where it warrants 5a if you go the best way). Controversial I know.
Submitted by : Jack Griffiths Area : Lundy Crag : Arch Zawn p319 Date of ascent : 07/09/2009 Route name : Codpiece Length/grade/stars : E1, 5a, 5a, 1star Climbers : Jack Griffiths, Trystan Jones-Morris Start location: The route follows the slabby arete right of “Front Piece” and left of “Today” taken on it’s left, seaward, side.Pitch descriptions: Pitch One: 19m From the ledge below “Front Piece” step down slightly and right to reach the arete. Head up the arete, small wires protect, in a fine position to reach a flake on the left. Step away from the arete just long enough to gain the top of the flake. Resist the temptation to escape left and make a committing move back onto the arete and up to the ledge and belay. Pitch Two: As for pitch two of “Stop Press”. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Robin Nicholson Area : Lundy Crag : Inland Buttress East of Seal Slab Area Date of ascent : 27/09/2009 Route name : Debbie Jane Fay Length/grade/stars : 20 metres, Hard Severe, 4a, 1 star Climbers : Robin Nicholson, Joe Killick Start location: Buttress Location: Refer to map diagram in new guide (2008) on page 293 or Debbie Jane Fay. This slab buttress is the second buttress due east inland of the Easter Island shaped blocks by the Ocean PromontorySeal Slab area. On the map in the guide this is shown as one large continuous buttress but it is actually two.Pitch descriptions: A surprisingly pleasant gritstone-esque excursion up the centre of the slab. Start at the centre of the slab at a hollow sounding flake. Follow the shallow groove up and right to reach the obvious rightward-slanting flake and good holds. Continue direct to a rounded finish. Belay at the ‘bollard’ on top of the buttress. Additional info: |
Submitted by : David Barlow << Comments on the Guidebook Area : Lundy Beef Buttress: I think the suggested spare rope to get to the 40m abseil at the top of the crag is unnecessary since it is a straightforward scramble. “Steve Bull” E2 5c no longer has a peg on it; there is good gear at that point on the route anyway. “Spare Rib” E1 5b appears to seep badly and the start has lots of green gunge on it so a prolonged dry spell would appear to be necessary to make it a pleasant experience.Punchbowl Cliff: “Return of the Teletubbies” E2 5a,5b felt more like E1 5a, 5a to us. Devil’s Chimney Cliff: “Overbored” HVS 5a does not have a peg on it and I reckon is closer to E2 5b. While we didn’t climb “Black Looks” and “Shy Tot” the easiest way to access them looked like abseiling down the Shy Tot corner. |
Submitted by : Tudor Griffiths << Correction to First Ascent Climbers Area : Lundy Crag : Arch Zawn Date of ascent : Route name : Late City Extra Length/grade/stars : Climbers : SJ Brown and T Griffiths (not ND Griffiths) |
Submitted by : Mandy Glanvill Area : Lundy Crag : Flying Buttress Area – Battery Date of ascent : 08/08/2011 Route name : Spotty Dog Length/grade/stars : 26m S posible 1 star Climbers : Mandy Glanvill, Julie Carter, Anne Freund Start location: Ab down to base of Battery Rib, first arête to the rightPitch descriptions: Well protected arête climb. Up the arête from base into scoop 3m, then on right side of arête up crack 5m, then as arête bluntend climb more easily up slab and groove to right fairly directly to finish as BatteryRrib. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Andy Owen Area : Lundy Crag : Previously unclimbed buttress. Suggest name of Lady Denise’s Buttress Date of ascent : 31/08/2011 Route name : Seal Erotica Length/grade/stars : 15 metres HVS 5a Climbers : James Nichols, Ian Timbrell Start location: Previously unclimbed buttress north of Black Bottom Buttress and above Threequarter Wall Buttress. The north face is situated above St James’s Stone and well seen in photo page 265 and also on centre fold of photo pages 266 and 267 of current (2008) guidebook. It is easily reached down a gentle grass slope from plateau level. The route is on the north face.Pitch descriptions: Start from a large flat boulder at the left side of the crag. Gain the rightward slanting fist crack above and climb strenuously to underneath the roof on the left hand side. Gain horizontal breaks through the clean patch of rock to the top. Rope belay around summit crown. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Andy Owen Area : Lundy Crag : Previously unclimbed buttress. Suggest name of Lady Denise’s Buttress Date of ascent : Route name : One Hundred and Ten Years Length/grade/stars : VS 4c. 30 metres Climbers : Andy Owen, Mick Cooke Start location: Approach as for Seal Erotica to North Face of crag. Start at a pile of boulders just left of the lowest point of the crag at the foot of the obvious right left rising ramp line.Pitch descriptions: Follow the ramp all the way to the overhang, which is passed on the left, to the top Belay as for Seal Erotica. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Gannet front buttress Date of ascent : 07/09/2011 Route name : Grumpy Old Gannets Length/grade/stars : 85m E1 5b 1 star Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt Start location: start as for “Gannet Front”Pitch descriptions: 1) 15m 4c . climb diagonally left to a short groove which leads to a traverse line, go down and left to a cormorants toilet and cross this without breathing to a comfortable belay niche below and left. 2)32m 5a climb the left hand crack in the wall above and continue up the rib passing to the right of a black area of rock to a large terrace. Belay 3)15m walk left around the front of the buttress to a belay at the top of the terrace directly below an obvious layback crack above the right hand side of a black overhang. 4)25m 5b enter the layback crack from the right and continue up the short vegetated wall above to a large grassy ledge, the jam crack above provides an energetic finale. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Slipper Rock Date of ascent : 09/09/2011 Route name : Puff the Magic Dragon Length/grade/stars : 20m hs 4c 3 stars Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruth Everitt, Justin Ford Start location: “Slipper Rock” is the outcrop overlooking gannet rock bay from the south end, identifiable by a miraculous spectacular jutting prow that resembles a dragons head. Start at the rib at the base of the landward side of the buttress.Pitch descriptions: 1) 20m 4c up the rib to a flake crack. move left across the slab and make an exposed and commiting move left onto the very snout of the beast. Finish up the slabby crest to a perched block belay. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Tom Hatt Area : Lundy Crag : Leaning Buttress – Devils Limekiln Area Date of ascent : 24/08/2012 Route name : Gardening the Muffin! Length/grade/stars : 85m – HVS 4b Climbers : Kyle Holman, Tom Hatt, Joe Fraser Start location: As for the ‘Devils Limekiln’ P36 2008 Lundy Guide The route starts on the South side of the ‘Leaning Buttress’ immediately to the left of the right-hand tunnel leading to ‘Muffin the Mule’. Accessible 2hrs before low tide.Pitch descriptions: 1. 15m Start Left of the tunnel, make a tricky move to start, then climb easily to belay on the left of the large ledge. 2. 25m (4b) Step left into the corner and make a rising traverse leftwards to a large jammed boulder at 30m above sea level. 3. 10m (4a) Ascend the loose gully to a nut belay on the col. 4. 35m (4b) From the col, traverse right for 5m, move up over poor quality rock, trending left and up into a scoop. Belay as far back as possible. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Tom Hatt Area : Lundy Crag : Kistvaen Buttress Date of ascent : 18/08/2012 Route name : TT Traverse Length/grade/stars : 45m (1 star) Climbers : Tom Hatt, Tim Taylor Start location: Descend as for Kistvaen Buttress (2008 Lundy Guide) but trend rightwards, to sloping ledges 45m West of the ridge and 20m above sea level.Pitch descriptions: From the right-hand end of the sloping ledges, step down and traverse right and make an airy series of moves over 3 stepped overhangs. Step down and continue on to the rising slab that leads to a large boulder at the top of ‘Clea’. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Tom Hatt << Comment Area : Lundy Crag : First Buttress North Route name : Formula One Comment: Sometime in 2012 the top section of ‘Formula One’ (HVS 5a) has fallen off. We climbed it to the last overhang and inspected the top section which was loose with minimal protection. I would suggest that the grade is now E? something and would need some cleaning! |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Trawlerman’s Buttress Date of ascent : 05/09/2012 Route name : When the Boat Comes In Length/grade/stars : 43m VS 5a 1star Climbers : Graham and Ruthie Everitt Start location: Start at a short smooth groove 5m left of Trawlin’ for Bouys and MeridianPitch descriptions: 1) 5a 18m Climb the short thin groove using any amenable molluscs to gain a short slab and corner above, traverse right just below the overhangs to belay in the niche of TFB. 2)4c 25m Traverse right along a horizontal crack beneath the overhangs to the centre of the hanging slab, go straight up this to a pull over the overhang at the very top of the crag. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Dave Linnett Area : Lundy Crag : Previously unclimbed slab, suggested name of “Partidge Slab” Date of ascents : 17/09/2012Start location: Partridge Slab is small and amenable with excellent golden rock and most of the routes are approximately 10 long. It is located halfway between the Conning Tower and Short Story Zawn and uses the same approach to Arch Zawn South with access possible for 3 hours either side of low tide. Descent is by abseil or a Moderate scramble!Date of ascent : 17/09/2012Route name : Cashback! Length/grade/stars : 10 metres Diff Climbers : Rob Horler; Dave Linnett Pitch descriptions: Climb the first leftward trending crack.Date of ascent : 17/09/2012 Route name : Eat My Face! Date of ascent : 17/09/2012 Date of ascent : 17/09/2012 Date of ascent : 17/09/2012 Date of ascent : 17/09/2012 Date of ascent : 17/09/2012 All were climbed onsight! |
Submitted by : Stevie Newman Area : Lundy Crag : Gannet’s Buttress Date of ascent : 24/9/2012 Route name : Pilar: What a Nightmare Length/grade/stars : 28m HVS 5a 1 star Climbers : Stevie Newman , Pilar Martinez Start location: Approach as for routes on the mid height terrace and start 5m to the right of Granite GannetPitch descriptions: 1)18m 5a climb up 2m to the start of a rightward rising traverse follow this to the first thin crack, move up with difficulty, then step left and continue past an overhanging flakeprow step right and belay as for The Squirmer. 2)5m traverse to the right for 5m belay. 3)5m 4a climb cracks and bulges moving right to finish. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay Area Date of ascent : 06/08/2013 Route name : Bridge of Sighs Length/grade/stars : 35m HVS 5a 3 Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt Start location: Descend the flying buttress as for Archers Loaf. Belay at the top of the corner groove.Pitch descriptions: 1) 35m 5a Excellent sustained climbing on perfect rock rightwards across the centre of the arch ends at a short wall below the overhangs, move up and make exposed moves on projecting blocks and flakes over these to easier ground, continue across the lower angle slabs on the right to reach a block belay high on the spine of the arch. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay Area Date of ascent : 07/08/2013 Route name : Teddy Bears Picnic Length/grade/stars : 25m E1 5b (1) Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt Start location: Opposite the north side of the flying buttress are two diamond shaped pinnacles. Descend the crest of the flying buttress and abseil 20m down the north side to a small tidal bay. The route takes the front face of the right hand pinnacle. Descend by scrambling down the obvious brown basalt dyke that forms the seaward side of the pinnacle. Start at a groove by the mouth of a sea cave below the right hand side of the pinnacle.Pitch descriptions: 25m 5b Make a couple of moves up the groove to gain a thin crack in the steep right wall up this energetically to a slender hanging groove. Climb the wall above directly to the top. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay Area Date of ascent : 07/08/2013 Route name : Chimps Tea Party Length/grade/stars : 25 m E2 5b(1) Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt Start location: Approach as for Teddy Bears Picnic. The route takes the south face of the lefthand (seaward) pinnacle. Start on the boulders in the channel at the lowest point of the face which is split by three thin cracks. Descend by scrambling off the back of the pinnacle.Pitch descriptions: 25m 5b Step off the boulders onto the steep face and climb up between the centre and right hand cracks to sloping ledges, continue over these slightly rightwards to the summit. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay Area Date of ascent : 07/08/2013 Route name : Tea at the Ritz Length/grade/stars : 40m S 4b (1) Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt Start location: Approach as for Teddy Bears Picnic. Start at the foot of the slabs on the right of the sea cave.Pitch descriptions: 40m 4b Climb pleasantly up the centre of the slab passing through a slight bulge at 10m, continue up the centre of the slabs trending slightly left until encouraged to exit right by the boulder cornice above to a thread belay high on the crest of the flying buttress. Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : Dihedral Slabs (new buttress) Date of ascent : 08/08/2013 Route name : Every Cloud Length/grade/stars : 40m E1 5b * Climbers : C Dale, J Martin, M Jones Start location: Locate a large pointed block 20m right “looking up” of the grassy rib running down the south side of Dihedral Zawn. A 50m ab leads to a large none tidal ledge.Pitch descriptions: Start on the lefthand side of the ledges. Step down and traverse left to a ledge follow this to its end. Climb straight up to the second crack in the slab above. Climb this past an overlap to a second, traverse up and right to finish as for silver lining. Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : dihedral slabs Date of ascent : 06/ 08/2013 Route name : Silver lining Length/grade/stars : 36m H V S 5a * Climbers : C Dale, J Martin Start location: as for Every cloudPitch descriptions: Step down and traverse left to the ledge, move to the middle of the ledge then climb straight up to the first proper crack in the slab above. climb this past an overlap to a step right to finish Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : Dihedral Slabs Date of ascent : 06/08/2013 Route name : Dihedral Slab Length/grade/stars : 25m VD Climbers : C Dale, J Martin Start location: Start on the lefthand side of the ledgesPitch descriptions: Climb the smaler of the to grooves to a ledge. Climb the righthand side of the slab to a step right above an overlap to finish. Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : Dihedral Slabs Date of ascent : 06/08/2013 Route name : Johny’s Makeshift Harnness Length/grade/stars : 25m HS 4a Climbers : J Martin, C Dale Start location: Start on the lefthand side of the ledgesPitch descriptions: Climb the larger of the two grooves to a ledge. Climb the crest of the arête left of the grassy v groove all the way to the top. Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : Dihedral Slabs Date of ascent : 06/08/2013 Route name : Mankini Length/grade/stars : 25m HS 4b Climbers : J Martin, C Dale Start location: Start on the lefthand side of the ledgesPitch descriptions: Climb the lefthand side of the slab until in the bottom of the vegetated groove. Move right under the overhang to the lefthand side of a wall. Climb this to the top. Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : Dihdral slabs Date of ascent : 06/08/2013 Route name : Wild Diamond Length/grade/stars : 25m VS 5a Climbers : C Dale, J Martin Start location: Start in the centre of the slab.Pitch descriptions: Climb the center of thr slab to the overhang. climb this on good holds to the middle of the upper wall then straight up to finish. Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : Dihedral Slabs Date of ascent : 08/08/2013 Route name : Black Country Length/grade/stars : 25m VS 4c Climbers : J Martin, C Dale Start location: Start on the righthand side of the slabPitch descriptions: Climb the streaked slab to the hanging block on the right side of the overhang. Move right under the block and climb the crack on its right,untill it is possible to step left onto the slabby wall. Continue up into the groove moving left to finish up the rib. Additional info: |
Submitted by : A J Martin Area : Lundy Crag : Les Aiguilles du Montagu Date of ascent : 07/08/2013 Route name : Snap Crackle and Pop Length/grade/stars : HS 4b Climbers : C Dale, M Gutterridge, A Clarke Start location: Start at the righthand end on the east side of the seaward stackPitch descriptions: Climb the obvious leftward rising ramp to the middle of the wall, ascend this to the slab. move left and follow the arête to the summit. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay area Date of ascent : 02/09/2013 Route name : California Dreaming Length/grade/stars : 47m E1 5a Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt, Justin Ford Start location: Cross the gap between “Teddy bears picnic and “Chimps tea party” and descend to the foot of a large slab. start in the centre of the slab directly below a prominent v groove that breach’s the half height overhang.Pitch descriptions: Climb up to the overhang, gain the slab above via the v groove and continue up the centre of the slab to a thread belay. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Lee Harrison Area : Lundy Crag : Needle Rock Date of ascent : 02/09/2013 Route name : Incognito Length/grade/stars : 23m, VS, 5a, 2 stars Climbers : Lee Harrison, Anna Kennedy Start location: Refer to the CC Lundy guide for approach and tidal information. There is a large isolated boulder on the cliffs above Needle Rock that we used for the approach (60m abseil). The route is located on the Western aspect of the rock.Pitch descriptions: 2 pitches. Pitch 1: 5a, 15m. Climb the thin crack near the right-hand side of the West Face to directly join Integrity at 13 height. Climb the cracks of Integrity then move left to gain an obvious platform at 23 height. Pitch 2: 4b, 8m. Climb the cracks above the platform through a small bulge to join the Northerly face. Spike on right. Climb the centre of the steep face on large holds but with no protection directly to the summit. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay area Date of ascent : 02/09/2013 Route name : A Little Light Refreshment Length/grade/stars : 25m HVS 5a (1) Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt, Justin Ford Start location: Start 6m left of “teddy bears picnic” below a short shallow groove.Pitch descriptions: 25m Tricky moves up the groove and wall above lead to a wide sloping ledge on the left of the buttress cross this and climb the crack on the left arete of the wall above. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Pilots Quay area Date of ascent : 03/09/2013 Route name : Quay Guano Length/grade/stars : 23m S 4b Climbers : Graham Everitt, Justin Ford Start location: Start directly below the centre of the lower slab between Newquay and Quay West.Pitch descriptions: 23m Climb the short wall to the “toe” of the slab and continue directly up the centre of it to a belay on the steps. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Pilots Quay Date of ascent : 03/09/2013 Route name : Smells Like Teen Spirit Length/grade/stars : 23m E2 5b (1) Climbers : Graham Everitt, Justin Ford Start location: start as for NewquayPitch descriptions: 23m 5b Climb newquay to the overhangs. Step left and pull over onto the slab above continue thinly up the righthand side of the upper slab. trend right at the top to a belay on the steps Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay Date of ascent : 05/09/2013 Route name : Hideous Kinky Length/grade/stars : 26m Hvs 5a (2) Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt Start location: Start at the foot of the seaward groove on nice ledges just left of the groove of Archers of loaf. (Would recommend this as a start point for that route too as there are no ledges in that groove even at low tide and the down climbing of it would be far harder than anything on the route.)Pitch descriptions: 26m 5a Step right from the lowest ledge at low tide and enter the groove at the foot of the arch via a tricky move . Climb directly up the wall on delightful rock trending slightly right at the top to a spike belay on a sloping ledge. Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Area : Lundy Crag : Picnic Bay area Date of ascent : 05/09/2013 Route name : Rive Gauche Length/grade/stars : 30m E1 5b (1) Climbers : Graham Everitt, Ruthie Everitt Start location: start below a damp dark ramp in the wall opposite ” river runs through it”Pitch descriptions: 30m 5b Climb the damp ramp to a drier and steeper wall in it difficult moves gain the sloping ledge above from here launch directly and excitingly up the overhanging wall via a series of slanting rails to a belay at the ab point Additional info: |
Submitted by : David Linnett Area : Lundy Crag : Partridge Slab Date of ascent : 22/09/2013 Route name : Lynn’s Lament Length/grade/stars : 10m Hard Severe 1 Climbers : FA D.Linnett, N.McEwan, B.Bagnall, Pitch descriptions: Start 2m right of “Knowing You” and climb the slab direct via narrow ledges to finish up the prominent crack.Additional info: On sight |
Submitted by : David Linnett Area : Lundy Crag : Partridge Slab Date of ascent : 22/09/2013 Route name : Coogan’s Chimney Length/grade/stars : 15m Diff 0 Climbers : FA B.Bagnall, D.Linnett, N.McEwan Pitch descriptions: Climb the obvious right to left chimney to the top.Additional info: On sight |
Submitted by : David Linnett Area : Lundy Crag : Partridge Slab Date of ascent : 22/09/2013 Route name : Radio Norwich FM Length/grade/stars : 12 m Sev 4a 1 Climbers : FA D.Linnett, N.McEwan, B.Bagnall Pitch descriptions: Start on the right hand side of the chimney and climb the obvious steep crack. Pull through the small overhang on lovely jugs to finish direct. Mmmm nice!Additional info: On Sight |
Submitted by : David Linnett Area : Lundy Crag : Partridge Slab Date of ascent : 22/09/2013 Route name : Alpha Papa Length/grade/stars : 15m VD 0 Climbers : FA N.McEwan, D.Linnett, B.Bagnall Pitch descriptions: Start at the far right hand end of the slab and climb the flutings to a ledge at 8m. 1m right of the small corner climb the face direct to finish.Additional info: On Sight |
Submitted by : Mick Cooke Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff Date of ascent : 18/08/14 Route name : You Said “Bulge” Length/grade/stars : 20m V Diff Climbers : Mick Cooke, Ian Timbrell Start location: Half way between ‘Where am I’ and ‘Aisla B’. Pitch descriptions: Climb the obvious line in the middle of the slabby rib between ‘Where am I’ and ‘Aisla B’. When you reach the overhanging bulge near the top, step right under the bulge and finish up ‘Aisla B’. |
Submitted by : Mick Cooke Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff Date of ascent : 18/08/14 Route name : Monday Afternoon Length/grade/stars : 15m Severe Climbers : Ian Timbrell, Mick Cooke Start location: The ramp of ‘Beach Barbie’ Pitch descriptions: Follow the slabby ramp of ‘Beach Barbie’ to the ledge. Climb up and step right around the bulge and then climb up and left directly to the top. |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Crag : Arch Zawn Poop Deck Date of ascent : 15/09/14 Route name : Captain Pugwash Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS 5a Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt Start location: Opposite the Conning tower is an area of steep walls and large platforms (the poop deck) directly opposite the excellent “Ultramarine” and above two shallow grooves is a prominent corner. Start at the foot of these in the bottom of the boulder channel.Pitch descriptions: Climb easily up the grooves to arrive at a large platform below the left arête of the corner, delightful climbing up the arête leads to the top. |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff Date of ascent : 07/09/14 Route name : Piece of Cake Length/grade/stars : 60m HS 4b * Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt Start location:Pitch descriptions: Additional info: |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff Date of ascent : 09/09/14 Route name : No Picnic Length/grade/stars : 50m E1 5b ** Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt Start location: As for “Piece of cake. Pitch descriptions:
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Submitted by : Graham Everitt Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff Date of ascent : 11/09/14 Route name : Dances with Jellyfish Length/grade/stars : 62m E1 5b * Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt Start location: As for “Piece of cake”. Pitch descriptions:
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Submitted by : Graham Everitt Crag : Picnic Bay Cliff Date of ascent : 11/09/14 Route name : Oddsock’s Groove Length/grade/stars : 18m SS 4b Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt Start location: Start just right of the upper section of “dances with jellyfish”. Pitch descriptions: Climb the narrow groove just right of” Dances with jellyfish”. Additional info: Named in honour of the first visit to Lundy island by the internationally renowned adventuress “Miss oddsock”(google her). |
Submitted by : Graham Everitt Crag : `st James Stone Date of ascent : 10/09/14 Route name : Stairway to Heaven Length/grade/stars : 45m VS 4b 0r HVS 5a * Climbers : Graham and Ruth Everitt, Pete Jones Start location: Across the gap from “Some Crack” is an arete formed by the edge of the through slot. Abseil down the gritty corner right of the arete to good ledges (low tide). Pitch descriptions: 45m 4b or 5a. Step left and climb the arête to a jutting prow, pass this on the left and step back right immediately to gain the continuation arête, follow this to the top. Additional info: Keeping both hands and feet on the arête all the way gives a slightly harder but more exciting excursion …hence the two grades. |
Submitted by : Pete Johnson Crag : Grand Falls Zawn Date of ascent : 08/09/2015 Route name : The Road To Leningrad Length/grade/stars : 84m E2 ** Climbers : Pete Johnson, Paul Drew Start location: Start as for The Road To Moscow alternative start.Pitch descriptions:
Additional info: |
Submitted by : Jonathan Preston Crag : Seal Slab area, Marisco Walls (page 292) Date of ascent : 10/09/2015 Route name : Indecent Exposure Length/grade/stars : 30m VS 4c * Climbers : Jonathan Preston, Aqil Chaudhry Start location: Start as for ‘Marisco Striptease’Pitch descriptions: Climb the groove as for Marisco Striptease but instead of moving up to the overhang and climbing strenuously through it (hard for 5a?) traverse right across a slab to the arête. Step around this in an exposed postion (best savoured at high tide..), move up over a short bulge and climb cracks to the belay blocks of the abseil point. Additional info: |
Submitted by: Tony Stone Crag: Torrey Canyon Cliff Witness the ShitnessDate of ascent: 06/09/2016 Start location:Probably the same place as Stingray (31/03/1967, 39m, E1 5a). This wall was revealed following the rockfall that removed most of Controlled Burning. Pitch descriptions:Takes the obvious – but unfortunately rather gravelly – finger and hand crack up the wall to a platform at its top. Exit leftward with care. Additional info:It *looks* like quite a good route. -3 stars was a bit of a joke, it’s a 0 star route which has a nice line but a fair bit of gravelly rock. It’s not particularly dangerous. The route is probably no worse a route than many whose first ascentionists would appear to wear rose tinted spectacles or, perhaps, simply they have no idea about what a good route is. It’s just I like my rock solid. If I were writing the next guidebook I would just suggest that “some routes have been climbed but the rock is very poor” around the Controlled Burning area. Incidentally, what was Controlled Burning could potentially clean up to give a decent E6/7 but it’d need a good clean/trundle. |
Seal Slab Area > Short Story ZawnRoute Comment: Moonfleet01-Jan-1970, |
Seal Slab Area > Seal SlabWandering Walrus65m S ☆ |
Torrey Canyon Bay > Torrey Canyon CliffMeniscus Tear45m S |
Arch Zawn Area > Arch Zawn > Headline PromontoryRoute Comment: Bulletin & possibly Headline01-Jan-1970, Simon Chandler |
The Devil’s Slide Area > St James’s StoneRoute Comment: Kathleen Turner01-Jan-1970, Simon Chandler |
The Devil’s Limekiln Area > Hidden Zawn > The East WallThe Three Wise Slabs30m VD |
Squires View ZawnRoute Comment: Zed01-Jan-1970, This is good – best route I’ve climbed at plateau level on Lundy. We started up the arête (possibly as taken by “XY” – see 2018 supplement) but then continued as per the description for Zed. It’s a logical line following the unusual (possibly) quartz extrusions which weave about the buttress. The line is very clearly seen from near the top of the Devil’s Slide. Worth a proper entry in the next guide. I’d give it VS 4c, One star. |
Arch Zawn Area > Arch Zawn > Headline PromontoryRoute Comment: Bulletin01-Jan-1970, 30 Aug 18. A big section of Bulletin appears to have fallen down. There’s not a lot of scarring, and no debris below, but obvious major differences from the photos in the current CC guide. Faced with unstable rock and no protection Simon Chandler (leading) backed off wisely. Pity as it was a great route. |
Needle Rock AreaRib Tickler Variation30m S |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabSquabbling Fulmars17m D |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabThe Shivering Limpet22m D ☆ |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabSeal Surfer18m D 4a |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabGalloping Grey Seals17m D |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabRemembering Wardy23m S 4b |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabSeals’ Hideaway27m D |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabThe Only Hard V Diff on Lundy20m HVD |
Heron Zawn Area > Hidden SlabThe Difficult Pensioner24m D |
Beaufort Buttress Area > Picnic Bay CliffRoute Comment: Where am I? and other discrepanciesWhile at Picnic Bay we noticed a few apparent discrepancies in the 2008 guide: For someone unfamiliar with the island the Pyramid does not look very significant when viewed from above and we took a little while to identify it. Once down, We found it easier to scramble down to the left (south) of the Pyramid than over the slightly loose and dirty slab to the right. I struggled to identify the “good flake belays” to abseil from. Perhaps this is a matter of interpretation, but what I had expected from the description did not match what I found, although I found a good block backed up with nuts in cracks. This mattered only in that it did cause us to wonder for a while whether we were in the right place. ‘Where am I?’: the text describes this as stepping right to finish up a short groove, however the picture (p196) shows it going left. Left seems the more obvious line and is appropriate to the grade. A friend who tried going right found it harder. The 2018 supplement includes ‘You Said Bulge’ which has an almost identical description to ‘Where am I?’. Is this a separate route, or just a variation finish? Either way, it could do with a clearer description. The text has the groove just left of ‘Where am I?’ as ‘Louis’ with ‘Bryony’ to the left of that, whereas the picture shows them reversed, with ‘Louis’ on the left. As a general comment, whilst it is very useful to have OS grid references for the crags, it might also be useful to have them for the points at which to leave the path. I have twice gone down the wrong grassy gully looking for Seal Slab. I obtained my copy of the guidebook from the BMC but it did not include the pull-out Harveys map, which I did not realise until I arrived on Lundy and saw my friends’ copies. Where can I obtain the map insert? |