New Routes – Lliwedd

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Quick links to Crag Areas

Far East Buttress East Buttress
Central Gully Area West Buttress
Slanting Gully Area Slanting Buttress
Far West Buttress

Routes are listed under each crag area.

Far East Buttress
East Buttress
Central Gully Area
West Buttress
Slanting Gully Area
Slanting Buttress

Slanting Buttress p 79

Penned Dragon

207m S
11-Sep-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: Essentially a right-hand alternative to the lower section of Ridge Route; or a better approach to Westerner. Start as for Ridge Route.

  1. 43m Scramble and climb the lower, right-hand chevron to its top. Continue up grooves, then easier ground to a quartz ledge and spike belays.
  2. 37m Climb a steeper groove above and slightly right, then slabs to reach the gully and the start of Westerner.
  3. 30m 4a Above lies a steep arete. Scramble up the gully, as for Westerner, for 8m; before a recess on the left allows access to the arete. Continue up and leftwards to gain the arete proper and climb this more easily to reach a large stance adjacent to a perched flake (old abseil cord!).
  4. 37m 4a Mustering as much elegance as possible, climb the short, widening crack above. Move up rightwards to a spike, before tip-toeing leftwards across a smooth slab to gain a groove with a finger-stone at its base. Climb the groove to reach the ridge on pitch 7 of Ridge Route
  5. Follow this climb to where it abuts onto the upper wall. Continuation:- Pitches 8, 9, and 10 of Ridge Route give a fine, logical finish.

Slanting Buttress p 79

Morgan’s Misery

61m VS
11-Sep-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: A line up the next rib system right of Soule’s Groove (p 82). After a reasonable start, the climbing quickly detiorates! Start 45 feet right of Soule’s Groove below a grooved arete, with a 4 foot high pinnacle flake at its base.

  1. 37m 4a Scramble up, and pass the pinnacle flake on its left. From its top step right into the groove in the arete and follow this to a ledge. Continue up the next grroved arete to gain a ledge below a loose, flaky rib.
  2. 15m Climb the steep, vegetated groove on the left; before re-gaining the flaky rib below a quartz prow. Step right and move up to welcome nut belays in a recess.
  3. 9m Short walls on the right lead to the Far West Gully descent route
Far West Buttress

Far West Buttress, p 82

Emrys

55m VD
07-Aug-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at a rib immediately right of the shallow gully mentioned in the approach to Far West Route, cairn; approximately 150 feet right of Far West Gully.

  1. 18m Climb the rib on flaky holds, then trend right up heathery ramps to belay at a quartz ledge.
  2. 25m Move 5 feet right and follow a left-slanting groove to a ledge. Trend right up quartz to gain a rib. Move around to its right, and follow the brown slab up and rightwards to below the final tower.
  3. 12m Climb the left flank of the tower on large holds, until a wide crack on the left leads abruptly to the top.

Far West Buttress, p 82

Avalon

64m VS
11-Sep-2009, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start: The main feature of the right side of Far West Gully (looking in), is a large area of quartz. This route takes the right flank of this quartz and the steep buttress above, giving a fine pitch. Start below the right flank of this area of quartz; cairn.

  1. 21m Climb the nose of quartz on its left, and continue rightwards to small spike belays below the steep buttress.
  2. 27m 4b Climb the buttress directly to twin spikes. . Move up slightly right and follow the right side of the arete to gain a small ledge. Climb the leftwards-leaning groove above to reach a quartz gangway. Follow this rightwards for 6m, to belay on a motley collection of spikes below a short, steep wall.
  3. 15m 4c Climb the right side of the short, steep wall (tricky, but avoidable); until a groove on the right leads to the summit ridge.