New Routes – Avon area, Gorge & Fairy Cave

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Suggest a visit to: Mendip Climb for additional new route information.

Submitted by : Kevin Bridges
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 27/01/2007
Route Name : Gumbo Variations
Length/grade/stars : 12m, E3 5b
Climbers : Kevin Bridges
Start location:
Face 10m right of GymslipPitch descriptions:
The blank wall to the right of pitch 1a – the variation start to Tin Drum. Climb the wall direct. No protection.Additional info:
Solo

Submitted by : James Parrott < < Comment
Gumbo Variations is probably Operational Reasons. I first climbed Operational Reasons in 2006: ukclimbing logbook
I’ve been investigating what I can but I don’t think it was regularly done before as it used to start above a vegetated ledge (this has now died off and has become the cleanest rock since I’ve been climbing it) and many people falsely assume it is blank. I don’t know what this `face 10m of Gymslip is’, (the Start of Fast Grip is 10m right of the corner according to the guide) unless it’s somewhere else entirely, the face right of the variation pitch 3a to Tin Drum, maybe. Kevin’s other submission (Starless and Bible Black) does look good though, I’m well up for repeating that.
Thanks, James.

Submitted by : Alex Barrows
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, Eagle Rock
Date of ascent : 16/03/2007
Route Name : The Holly and the Eddie
Length/grade/stars : 18m, E2 5c, 0 stars
Climbers : A Barrows, M Tomlinson
Start location:
Start between Gift Tolkien and The Gnome King.Pitch descriptions:
Just as pointless and eliminate as it looks – the section of rock between Gift Tolkien and The Gnome King avoiding using the cracks either side for holds or gear. Easy climbing leads to the short, vertical sheet of rock (RP 1, RP 4 just below) where a couple of slightly tricky and very reachy moves will deposit you on the small ledge above. More easy climbing leads to tree belays. Very escapable, harder for the short.Additional info:
Lead after brief toproping. Quite possibly (probably?) done before but not considered worthy of reporting or inclusion in the guidebook. It was quite fun anyway though!
Submitted by : Josh Rose
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, ShatterCave Area
Date of ascent : 06/05/2007
Route Name : Where’s Blagdon?
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VS
Climbers : Josh Rose, Tom Dixon
Start location:
Climb either Back Off or Backing Up to the belay tree at the top of these routes.Pitch descriptions:
20m, 4b. From the belay tree at the top of Back Off/Backing Up, carry on up to the left, clambering carefully over a rubble strewn ledge after about 3m. Climb the centre of the slab above. Small wirerunners in the first half, run out at the top.Additional info:
Clean Onsight, Unrepeated
Submitted by : Josh Rose
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Withyhill Cave Area
Date of ascent : 21/03/2007
Route Name : Standing on the Shoulders of Morons
Length/grade/stars : 20m, VD
Climbers : Josh Rose, Megan Sommerville
Start location:
Climb Standing on the Shoulders of Moles (if you’re brave enough!) to the belay trees on the rubble strewn ledge.Pitch descriptions:
20m Extremely run out with only one piece of protection in the whole pitch. From the belay trees at the top of Standing on the Shoulders of Moles, move up leftwards towards some stacked blocks and a small tree. 10m above the ledge you’ll find your protection, in a vertical crack, make sure you have a size 0.5 cam for it. Extend well, and move back down the small ledge you’re standing on to a small hanging block, go over this and up rightwards towards, and then along a gently sloping grassy ramp which leads to the top. Belay from trees at the top.Additional info:
Clean Onsight, Unrepeated. Most of Standing on the Shoulders of Moles and part of the rubble strewnledge fell down as Megan led it, had Josh not divedout of the way when the ledge collapsed, the routewould have been marred by a trip to the local A & E!
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress, Avon Gorge
Date of ascent : 12/08/2007
Route Name : The Outlook is Rosy
Length/grade/stars : 18m, HVD, *Climbers : Colin Knowles, Steve Marriott
Start location:
Start at the toe of the buttress, just to the leftof a complex buddleia bush.Pitch descriptions:
Climb readily to the base of a groove that splitsthe arête and then delicately up the groove and thearête beyond to the base of a red wall (escapepossible here). Move slightly left before climbingthe crackedarête readily to the top.The best belay is the keep fence, which well backfrom the top of the route. The best descent is tofollow the keep fence and its trend line to the backof the bay, where a descent is made readily back tothe SSB.

Additional info:
This route is a welcome addition to this grade ofclimbing in the Gorge, and with use will soon becomea popular outing. It takes the obvious clean-lookingslabby right arête of SSB just before the fence,well to the right of Wormlands. As the route ispoorly protected in the lower and middle sections itrequires steadiness from the leader, though the rockis splendidly rough and sound in those sections.

Submitted by : Mark Davies
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry – Conning tower area
Date of ascent : 07/10/2007
Route Name : Thick Black Lips
Length/grade/stars : 25m. HVS 5b. one star.
Climbers : Mark Stephen Davies, Sarah Coombes
Start location:
The obvious hanging slab left of The Conning Tower.Start a little way up the muddy gully on the left at a block below a small cave entrance.Pitch descriptions:
Interesting, solid, well protected climbing. Climb cracks up to the overlap and gain the slab by a tricky leftward move. Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards along the bottom of the slab to gain the obvious R-L rising diagonal crack. Climb this for a few awkward moves until a tasty rockover, utilising an obvious side pull gains a standing position in the crack. Climb the rest of the slab on good edges and finish up the slightly loose arête.Additional info:
Prior clean on abseil. Led clean. Second ascent and grade confirmed by Brian Mullen and Clare Lindley 07/10/2007
Submitted by : Richard Hall
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Pete\’sWall
Date of ascent : 02/11/2007
Route Name : The Radco Checkout Girl
Length/grade/stars : 35m, VS 4c
Climbers : Richard Hall, Mike Kann
Start location:Pete’s Wall is the obvious brown wall oppositeRob’s Slab.Pitch descriptions:
Start below the overhang just right of the centreof the wall. Climb straight up on loose rock andthen though the overhang via the niche at it’sright hand end. Continue up to a tree before makinga rising traverse leftwards crossing the horizontalbreaks. Swing round the large flake and finish up onloose ground.Additional info:
On-sight. No known repeats.
Submitted by : Kevin Bridges
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 02/02/2008
Route Name : Starless And Bible Black
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E5 6b *
Climbers : Kevin Bridges
Start location:Climbs the wall between The Beat and Small OrNothingPitch descriptions:
Sufficiently independent to give the most seriousclimb on this section of rock where failure is notan option. Follow Small Or Nothing to the sapling. Pull uponto the black wall and hand traverse the ramp leftand up into the centre of the wall. Using a tinyfinger flake on the left, balance up and pass a downpointing flake before making a committing stretchfor the good ledge and Slurp ramp above. A finish up Lost Atoms maintains the momentum.Additional info:
Solo
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Portishead Quarry – The Sanctuary
Date of ascent : 7th January 2007
Route Name : Heavy Cloud; Lots of RainLength/grade/stars : 8 metres, F6a+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Martin Crocker (bothled)
Start location:
The route lies on the small isolated buttressdirectly opposite the main crag (i.e. on the extremeright as you enter the quarry).Pitch descriptions:
A fun little number that proves steeper than itlooks (and with Sting in its tale). Three boltrunners to double ring abseil station.
Submitted by : James Moyle
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Westdown Quarry
Date of ascent : 03/05/2008
Route Name : Travellers’ Rest
Length/grade/stars : 8m, VS 5b, 0 stars
Climbers : James Moyle
Start location:
As the guidebookPitch descriptions:
A bit of a one move wonder with good pro. Starts 3mright of Sourcery. Take the middle of the overhangvia the crack that runs through it. Then Bimble tothe top through the Budleia.Additional info:
Clean Onsight – unseconded
Submitted by : Colin Knowles < < Comment
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Unknown Wall Area
Date of ascent : 03/05/2008
Route Name : AasvogelNot a new route but the guide book is not correct.
The earthy crack has been highly cleaned and theroute is in very good shape. It is a very interesting route to climband is mostly well protected. The only vegetation problem is climbing pasttwo fierce hawthorns, which could easily be pruned with secateurs. MattGoater and I were of the strong opinion that it should be given astar.
Submitted by : Colin Knowles < < Claim of previous accent detailed below accepted by Colin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Mells, Left Shed
Date of ascent : 08/07/2008
Route Name : Pell Mell
Length/grade/stars : 18m, VS 5a, 1 star
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Jerzy Weiczorek, Evan Hall
Start location:
This is the first crag after Face of Mells when approached from the road.In the 2004 guide no routes are described on this face.Pitch descriptions:
This route climbs the deep excellent right-ward trending crack thatsplits the face. The well-protected crux is at the bulge just below thetree. A variety of climbing techniques will be found useful.Submitted by : Ben Palmer < < Comment

This route is actually:

Sting in the Tail HVS 5a – Take the fine rising crack line that runs the entire height of the crag, passing a dead tree where the angle eases. The small tricky ramp above leads to a finishing mantleshelf onto a slightly sloping large ledge. Big cams protect, belay on trees and scramble off to the rear. 29/05/2006 – James Jackson, Ben Palmer (onsight after abseil cleaning). Climbed by myself and a friend 2 years before the subsequent ascent.

Submitted by : Alex Collins
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Upper Amphitheatre Walls
Date of ascent : 07/09/08
Route name : Mynewt
Length/grade/stars : 25m E5 6aClimbers : Alex Collins
Start location:
Approach is made via an abseil from the railingsabove Giants Cave Buttress, or alternatively climbthe first two pitches of Giants Cave Buttress anduse the third belay to begin the route. The bestmeans of descent is to walk beyond the SuspensionBridge to meet and follow the zigzags down to thePortway.Pitch descriptions:
25m E5 6a Effectively a more direct anduninterrupted version of Daz. Muscle up pockets tothe right of the right of the arête (in situ thread)to reach a handrail leading rightwards into a corner(in situ thread). From the ledge above make a longreach to pass a bulge. Move rightwards along thecrystalline break to pockets and better holds(questionable peg). Take the thin crack above past apeg to good holds at the top.
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date of ascent : 16/05/2009
Route name : Limbic Dystrophy
Length/grade/stars : HVS (4c, 4c)
Climbers : David Radley, Colin Knowles
Start location:
An adventurous outing up a less travelled part of the buttress. Rock quality improves after the first 10m. Starts 5m right of the large earthy rightwards diagonal break taken by Wormlands.Pitch descriptions:
1. (4c) Climb the wall on poor rock for 10m. Cross easy slabs to reach a groove system on the left. (Rock improves from here). Climb grooves until a ledge appears on the right (good runners). From here continue up the groove system to reach the leftwards diagonal faultline above. Step right under a small nose and climb an awkward short shallow corner to reach a good belay.
1a.Variation: (E1 5b) From the good runners at the ledge, traverse left across the steep wall on positive pockets and boldly make tricky moves upwards where they finish to reach the break. Good rock.
2. (4c) Trend initially right then straight up to the base of a prominent left-facing shallow corner (belay possible 3m left). Climb the corner, or its arete, trending right near the top to the headwall, which is climbed to the right of two metal plates to the exit of choice.
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date of ascent : 08/06/2009
Route name : Suprising Conclusion
Length/grade/stars : S * 4a 30m
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Greg Jaxa-Aksentowicz
Start location:
An airy route, initially straightforward, but increasingly challenging as it gains height. A good route at this grade, which is poorly represented in the Avon Gorge, and ideal for a Severe leader looking to improve their all-round skills. The rock is good, and the lower section of the route well protected.Start by abseiling from the tree at the top of Limbic Dystrophy to the capacious well-protected mid-way belay ledge of that route.Pitch descriptions:
1. (4a) From the belay ledge easily up the rightward-trending open groove to ledges, then follow the continuation groove with more interest and exposure until forced left onto narrow ledges. After arranging protection ascend the increasingly exposed and delicate right-trending continuation groove to the top. Belay at the tree.
Submitted by : Remus Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Croscombe Valley Cliffs, Main Cliff
Date of ascent : 28/08/2009
Route name : Dirty Hands
Length/grade/stars : VS 4c, 8m
Climbers : Remus Knowles
Start location:
10m left of ‘Directors Chair’Pitch descriptions:
Climb the pocketed wall and vague rib to a dirty top out (or lower of a pre-placed rope, more pleasant).Additional info:
Cleaned then soloed, possibly a repeat of ‘Strawberry Line.’
Submitted by : Remus Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Croscombe Valley Cliffs, Main Cliff
Date of ascent : 28/08/2009
Route name : Special K
Length/grade/stars : HVS 5a, 8m
Climbers : Remus Knowles
Start location:
The obvious overhang between ‘Directors Chair’ and ‘The secret Existence of a Mendip Official.’Pitch descriptions:
Climb the wall beneath the overhang then surmount it on the left. Top out via a dirty scramble or lower from a pre-placed rope.Additional info:
Cleaned then soloed.
Submitted by : Henry Castle
Area : Avon gorge
Crag : The higher of the “two shaly, decomposing red-coloured walls” at the extreme left of Main Wall.
Date of ascent : 9/5/2009
Route name : Break Left
Length/grade/stars : 60m E2 5c, 5c
Climbers : Henry Castle: Guy Jarvis
Start location:
Walk to the furthest left section of Main Wall, where a wedge shaped buttress is found.Pitch descriptions:
This traverse route has been dug out, into existence (after a total of six days cleaning.) Participants will find a surprising amount of variety with good moves. Needless to say some of the rock should be handled with care. 1. 5C, 25m. Start as for Suicide Machine. Bold wall climbing up the white and orange stained wall leads to the break underneath the small overhang at five meters. Pull over into a vertical crack to the break. Hand traverse the break left to sloping ledges, continue left along balancy ledges to the continuation break. Hand traverse this to a ledge. Belay.2. 5C, 35m. Creep left along the ledge to a peg in the small roof. Drop down to make a committing move around the jutting nose of rock to another sloping ledge on the left. Move back right to stand on top of the “nose” to make a stretch up for a peg. Climb the thin slab directly to a horizontal break. Hand traverse this (cams) to a hard exit from a low corner, onto a sloping shelf (peg high up to protect second). Move left to another larger corner and pull round left onto the white wall (two pegs). Climb the wall to a sloping hand traverse left to a borehole thread. Top out above on easy but loose rock and veg’. Tree belays well back.

Additional info:
All climbed free on first ascent. Previous repeats with; Steve Winthrope, David Talbot (MIA), Trevor Messiah (MIA) and two other mates I sandbagged into seconding it. It’s cleaning up quite well!

Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge – The Tsunami
Date of ascent : 3rd October 2009
Route name : Who is the Enigmatic Mystery Climber?
Length/grade/stars : F6a+ 15m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yousef Haddu
Start location:Pitch descriptions:
Suprising pitch that climbs the overhanging vee-groove at extreme left-hand end of The Tsunami, keeping close to the line of the seven bolts.
Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge – The Tsunami
Date of ascent : 10th October 2009
Route name : Three Dark Nights
Length/grade/stars : F6c+ 16m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yousef Haddu
Start location:Pitch descriptions:
Start immediately left of ‘Joyride’. An initial fingery wall on soft edges is followed by some fun pulling on real holds through the bulge above. Finish easily up a short crack and wall above to the abseil station of ‘..Mystery Climber’ on the left. Seven bolts.
Submitted by : Gordon A Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge – Stepped Wall
Date of ascent : 26th September 2009
Route name : No Saanich in Salsa
Length/grade/stars : F6a+ 13m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Brian Wyvill (both led)
Start location:Pitch descriptions:
A soon to be popular warm-up? Climb directly up the ledges and the centre of the smooth compact headwall just left of the classic ‘Stepped Wall’. Hand-traverse right at the top to a double bolt abseil station. Five bolt runners.
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : The Holecombe Quarries (Bector Wood) – The Slab with No Name
Date of ascent : 18th October 2009
Route name : Second Time Around
Length/grade/stars : 12m F4
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones (both led)
Start location:
Pleasant slab just left of ‘Long Time Coming’Pitch descriptions:
Low in its grade. Four bolt runners to double ring abseil station.
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : The Holecombe Quarries (Bector Wood) – The Slab with No Name
Date of ascent : 4th September 2009
Route name : Does Size Matter?
Length/grade/stars : 20m F5+
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones
Start location:
Elementary climbing up what is arguably the best line on the Mendips!. The outside edge of the prominent wide cleft immediately right of ‘Long Time Coming’ provides an unusual and rather funky outing.Pitch descriptions:
Be careful with the rock in the lower section. Nine bolt runners to double ring abseil station. … and now for the fun part … Lower back to the base from the double bolt abseil station and re-ascend the route this time starting up the inside of the wide cleft. Simple at first until the floor steepens up. The only route you will ever do where it’s easier for those who eat lots of pies.
Submitted by : Gordon Jenkin
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar Gorge – The Far Bay
Date of ascent : 31st October 2009
Route name : All Hallows Even
Length/grade/stars : Severe 19m
Climbers : Gordon A Jenkin, Ed Heslam (both led) and Fiona Campbell
Start location:
A congenial outing, up the distinctive groove line, in the middle of right wall of The Far Bay. Finding a good easy roadside route is a rare event!Pitch descriptions:
Climb up into the initial scoop (peg runner), move up to a good hand ledge (peg runner), step across leftwards to easy ledges then scramble up to a bigger ledge above. Some initial small wires, and a critical large wire just above, protect a short diagonal slab leading to a another ledge (big hex placement) and an easy finishing corner. Double ring abseil station.Additional info:
WINTER ONLY – WINTER ONLY – WINTER ONLY
Submitted by : Mark Davies
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe – Owl Rock
Date of ascent : 06/03/2010
Route name : Open Knightly
Length/grade/stars : 20m HVS 5a one star
Climbers : M.S.Davies, G.X.Percival, D.Elder
Start location:
A surprisingly worthwhile addition on good rock that lurked beneath ivy on the far right end of Owl Rock. Start a metre or so right of the right-hand crack of Treebeard.Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall direct to a small ledge and break (avoiding the easy approach to the right). Move up through a slight bulge on hidden holds following a shallow kinked groove to reach a larger ledge. Trend left towards a right facing hanging corner and climb this for a few moves until it is possible to swing left onto the rib and join the finish of Greybeard.
Submitted by : Mark Davies
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe – The Obelisk
Date of ascent : 06/03/2010
Route name : Betwixt and Between
Length/grade/stars : 12m VS 4b
Climbers : M.S.Davies, G.X.Percival, D.Elder
Start location:
Start between Bolg and LegolasPitch descriptions:
Unashamedly eliminate but pleasantly delicate and far less strenuous than its neghibours. Climb the short wall and bold blunt arete between Bolg and Legolas.
Submitted by : James Woodbridge
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Winterbourne Down – Forest Air Buttress left
Date of ascent : 07/04/10
Route Name : Introductory Offer
Length/Grade/Stars : 7m Diff
Climbers : James Woodbridge
Start Location:
In the corner where the two faces meet, at the bottom of the step like formationPitch Description:
Climb the step like formation, bridging to the right hand wall, until you reach a small ledge. From here move onto te right hand wall, continuing up using the left hand wall for the bridging. when near the top transfer over onto the left hand wall to finish and walk off from the top.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Wavering Down, The White Cliff.
Date of ascent : 10th April 2010
Route name : Blanc en Blanc.
Length/grade/stars : 8 metres, S **
Climbers : Theis Kotschi, Martin Bazley.
Start location:
from the Trig point on top of Wavering Down head due south for about half a kilometre then trend east toward some windblown yew trees,the crag is just below them.The route follows the shallow crack on the left of the tallest part of the crag.O.S. map explorer 141 Cheddar gorge,40 08, 55 05.Pitch descriptions:
Single pitch, start at the shallow crack on left of crag,numerous small chock and natural thread runners into small alcove then trend right towards(but not over)small overhang and top.4b. The crag is weathered limestone with a small rock shelter which cuts right through from the bottom to the top of the outcrop and is well covered in ivy hinting at further routes waiting to be discovered,a pleasant place to spend an afternoon with spectacular views over the Somerset levels.Additional info:
Trad ascent
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Holcombe – Bector Wood
Date of ascent : 06/07/2010
Route Name : Often Overlooked
Length/grade/stars : 24m/HVS 5a One Star
Climbers : Evan Hall, Colin Knowles
Start location: At the base of the Vicious Eyes slabPitch descriptions:
This route climbs the corner to the left of Vicious Eyes. From the base of the slab climb easily to underneath the first bulge then surmount the succession of well-jammed flakes, with some challenge, until close to the belay bolts on Vicious Eyes, when moves right and up can be made to belay at a sound Ash tree.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Sea Walls, Central Section
Date of ascent : Pre 1972
Route name : Mobius Pitch 4
Length/grade/stars : 20m, HVS 4b, 0
Climbers : E Drummond ?
Start location:
As description on page 122Pitch descriptions:
As description on page 122
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Sea Walls, Central Section
Date of ascent : 05/11/1977
Route name : Morpheus – indirect finish
Length/grade/stars : 10m, S 4a, 0
Climbers : N Barry, UBMC Party
Start location:
Start at the end of P4 of Morpheus.Pitch descriptions:
Climb back up left above P4 towards the promient (ancient) PR, finish just right of it.Additional info:
The ancient PR suggest a previous ascent
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Sea Walls, Central Section
Date of ascent :
Route name : Mobious, pitch 3
Length/grade/stars : As description on page 122.
Climbers : N Barry, J Ford
Start location:
As description on page 122.Pitch descriptions:
As description on page 122.Additional info:
A much better start is Nightcap, as climbed in 1983, note there was a PR at the base of the rib at this date (the Sleepwalk belay)
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : New Quarry, Right Wing
Date of ascent : 11/04/1994
Route name : JHC
Length/grade/stars : 17m, E2 5b, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
As Slugs & Snails, p141Pitch descriptions:
As Slugs & Snails, p141Additional info:
Repeated as Slugs & Snails
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Enigma Arête
Length/grade/stars : 12m S 4c, 0
Climbers : N Barry, H Barry
Start location:
As Helga, p206Pitch descriptions:
As Helga, p206Additional info:
Repeated as Helga
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Left Arête
Length/grade/stars : 8m, D, 0
Climbers : N Barry, H Barry
Start location:
Slabby arête opposite Enigma Arête (right of Stomp). Descend into the back of the gully on the westPitch descriptions:
Climb the cracks up the arête
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Central Slab
Length/grade/stars : 8m, VD, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, ALOL
Start location:
Slab right of the central cleftPitch descriptions:
Climb the cracked slab
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Right Arête
Length/grade/stars : 8m, S 4a, 0
Climbers : A Tallant, C Jones
Start location:
Right arête of the slabPitch descriptions:
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Mantleshelf Wall
Length/grade/stars : 8m, S 5a, 0
Climbers : A Tallant, P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
The wall just inside the gully to the right,Pitch descriptions:
A hard rock-overmantleshelf.Additional info:
All Solo
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Brean Down, The Fort Crags
Date of ascent : Pre 1966
Route name : Moat End Chimney
Length/grade/stars : 8m, M to VD, 0
Climbers : Unknown
Start location:
The South end of the fort moat.Pitch descriptions:
VD, Left, At the entrance to the chimney climb a steep 10ft groove then the wall above. D, Direct, Climb the chimney, which is narrow at first to the broad cleft above. Finish up the left or right walls M, Right, A few feet to the right of the chimney is a narrow cleft, it is rather dirtyAdditional info:
Dixon Guide
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sand Point, East Wall
Date of ascent : 22/06/1997
Route name : Elgar
Length/grade/stars : 12m, VS 5a, 0
Climbers : A Tallant, C Jones
Start location:
As description on page 205Pitch descriptions:
As description on page 205Additional info:
Repeated later
Submitted by : nigel barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Brean Down The Fort Crags
Date of ascent : Pre 1966
Route name : Shelter Chimney
Length/grade/stars : D to VD, 18m, 0
Climbers : Unknown
Start location:
To the right or roughly SE of the Moat are two concrete shelters, probably former gun emplacements. Just right of the lower shelter is a prominent cleft – Shelter Chimney.Pitch descriptions:
VD, The Chimney Direct D, The Buttress to its rightAdditional info:
Dixon Guide
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Upper Lift
Date of ascent : 05/07/1999
Route name : Black Pudding
Length/grade/stars : 35m E3 5c,
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start directlybelow the PR at the end of Le Poudin Noir traversePitch descriptions:
For those who dont like traverses. Climb direct to the PR on Le Poudin Noir and continue as that route.Additional info:
After climbing the ordinary route
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 28/04/1997
Route name : Wet Dreams
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HS 3c, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:Pitch descriptions:
Climbs up right of the easy (and protectable) slab taken by Easy Route, to finish near the top of Doinngggg (direct)Additional info:
A heavy rain shower with the leader on the top moves caused much alarm
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 11/05/1998
Route name : Quip-U for Leisure
Length/grade/stars : 12m E1 5c, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
As Eco-line, P276Pitch descriptions:
As Eco-line, P276Additional info:
Both Led
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 28/04/1998
Route name : Equiped for your Pleasure
Length/grade/stars : 12m, E1 5b, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
As Mystery, P276Pitch descriptions:
As Mystery, P276Additional info:
Repeated as Mystery. The bolt was added after the first ascent by the same party. The alternative to the bolt being to tie off a 2″ iron spike in the middle of the crux.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 28/04/1997
Route name : All Over Easy
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HS 4a, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Climbs the slab left of the square concrete block of Death By Concrete, via the two square holes, and a dangling bracket.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry
Date of ascent : 09/09/1996
Route name : Death by Concrete
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 4b, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Takes the obvious square concrete block direct with poor protection.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab, to a bracket right of the block (only protection), mantle the front of the block, and continue to the top.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 19/08/1996
Route name : Breakfast at Milliways
Length/grade/stars : 12m, VS 5b, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Climb between the two lines of quarry bolts & etc., just left of Big Bang Burger Bar.Additional info:
Take lots of QDs on large krabs for the bolts.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 16/04/1996
Route name : CJD
Length/grade/stars : 12m, VS 5c, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Start just right of Big Bang Burger Bar and climb onto the concrete ledge. Follow the line of quarry bolts and step left to join the finish of Big Bang Burger Bar.Additional info:
Originally climbed with 1 pt aid, FFA P. Sleet, N.Barry 160496
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 22/04/97
Route name : Scrapie
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 5a, 0
Climbers : N Barry, P Sleet
Start location:
Climb through the gap in the concrete ledge, step left and climb the line of quarry bolts, finish past a square hole.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 22/04/1997
Route name : BSE
Length/grade/stars : 12jm, E1 5c, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start as Scrapie, but trend right and follow the shallow crack to a ledge. Straight up to finish.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 16/04/1996
Route name : Whip U for Pleasure
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 4c, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start left of Brackets and climb onto a concrete ledge, traverse left and follow the line of boltsbrackets to the ledge. Step left and finish as BSE.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Cheddar Area
Crag : Sandford Quarry,.Lower Lift
Date of ascent : 05/07/1999
Route name : Red Rag to a Bull
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HVS 5a, 0
Climbers : P Sleet, N Barry
Start location:
Start as Brackets, 2nd bracket treaded as a runner. Climb the flake above, Friend#3 in pocket. Finish up the pink slab above (past 2 BRs) to a cleaned exit.
To celebrate the re-opening of Fairy Cave Quarry:

Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 27/07/2010
Route name : Ten Minute Arête
Length/grade/stars : VD one star 30m
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Ian Hegarty
Start location:
The right hand side of ‘Pete’s Wall’

Pitch descriptions:
A very pleasant route on rough mainly sound rock with good protection, with an airy feel in the upper section. Ideal for a novice leader.

Submitted by : Nigel Barry
Area : Avon
Crag : Main Area
Date of ascent : Autumn 1985
Route name : Evening Topsy Direct
Length/grade/stars : As guide
Climbers : Nigel Barry
Start location:
As guidePitch descriptions:
As guideAdditional info:
Belayed by Dave Woodnutt, after the attempt the previous week by Woodnutt & Morley. The leader reached the top of the rock but could not exit due to too much thorn. The party abseiled off and retreated up Bob’s Climb.
Submitted by : Graeme Thomson
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe – car park Bay
Date of ascent : 13/03/2011
Route name : Tie One On
Length/grade/stars : E2 5b
Climbers : Graeme Thomson, Rachel Thomson
Start location:
Start in the corner (by tree) at the left end of the car park bay red wall.Pitch descriptions:
Take the rising traverse line that runs from head height via a couple of tricky moves (while passing The Goblins Teasmade) to its end and finish direct via the corner crack (I think it’s called Edge of Mirkwood)
Submitted by : Henry Castle
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Lower Amphitheatre Wall
Date of ascent : 28/4/2010
Route name : Break Down
Length/grade/stars : 90m, E4 6a,
Climbers : Henry Castle, Phil Beddow
Start location:
Start as for Lay in Wait, at the far right end of Lower Amphitheatre Wall.Pitch descriptions:
A rather scruffy first pitch is required to get to the main event, although it is in keeping with general theme and gives an opportunity to warm up the “guns.” Many medium sized cams prove invaluable. Pitch 1. 35m45m. 4b. Follow Lay in Wait for 5m and use the ledge on the left to walk left a further 5m. Climb up left to arrive under a thin strip roof. Traverse left under the roofs to belay by a projecting tree, or continue left to another small ledge a further 10m on. Pitch 2. 20m. 6a. Climb up left on rising ledges to the upper break line, now the fun begins. Plug cams into the break above a small corner and launch out left on the just over hanging red wall. 15m of sustained climbing following the break arrives you at a ledge and belay with peg and good nuts. Pitch 3. 35m. 4c. Climb directly up the wall above the belay for 5m, to a sloping mantle. Walk to the back of the large slab to two trees. Sling these and return back to the edge to belay and bring your second up the last 5m of the climb.Additional info:
The chances of this having never been climbed before are slim. Second ascent by Henry Castle and Dave Talbot, 5/5/2010
Submitted by : Richard Hall
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Avon Gorge Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 21/06/2011
Route name : Ares
Length/grade/stars : 20m E5
Climbers : Richard Hall
Start location:Pitch descriptions:
6c The right hand side of the Pathos arete. Start up the bulging arête as for Pathos and Academic. Follow Pathos onto the grassy ledge then step up and right back onto the arête, fix a Friend 3.5 in the shallow slot and stretch to clip the peg (new and good) on Pathos. From the cam slot leave Pathos via a long reach to a big sloper on the arête. Continue up the right hand side of the arête via a series of hard snatches between small holds to the sanctuary of a good flat hold. Fix the final protection if desired (a slider 1, which can be borrowed from the first ascensionist) and make the final easier moves to a large ledge. Continue up the arête to the lower off of Academic and Eros.Additional info:
Style – Headpoint (process started before the reinstallation of the Pathos peg)Also worth noting that second ascensionist Martin Crocker, climbed an easier and slightly safer left hand variation. From the big sloper this moves up the left hand side of the arête with feet on the Pathos slab. This is E5 6b.
Submitted by : Mark Carnall < < Serious changes due to rock damage
Area : Avon Gorge
Crag : Main Wall
Date of ascent :
Route name : The Writing On The Wall (existing route)
Length/grade/stars : E3
Climbers :
Start location:
Pitch descriptions:
There has been a serious change to the last pitch of the above route. There is an obvious red scar where a big hold has recently come off on the last hard move before the easy arête (just to the left of the peg) I tried to use what was left of the hold as a side pull but it broke off too, making this move at least 6a in my opinion (previously 5a) There were two carabiners on the two level pegs about ten foot below where a previous party had obviously retreated so someone at least thought the same. Instead of up and left at the peg I went up and right, and then back left to the arête at 5c or possibly 6a I notice there has been a lot of this here after such a harsh winter.
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Bector Wood Quarry (OS 670478) aka Holcombe West
Date of ascent : 16/08/2011
Route name : Between the Lines
Length/grade/stars : HVS 5b, 18m 2 Stars
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Simon Fletcher
Start location:
This exciting climb will rapidly become a quarry classic. To the left of the Vicious EyesOften Overlooked slab is a wall with, from left to right, two hanging corners and a chimney. This route climbs the middle line.Pitch descriptions:
Start behind trees under an overhang with a prominent right-trending flake crack. Climb this (strenuous) until a delicate move can be made onto a sloping ledge. Just left is a hanging groove; gain the groove by a baffling move (for the short), and climb to the base of the open-book corner. Enter the corner by challenging moves and climb excitingly to the top, exiting on the left. From here belay and abseil off the three trees on the left or continue readily to the top with caution.Additional info:
Totally trad
Submitted by : Tom Irving
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 2005
Route name : Big Bertha
Length/grade/stars : E1 5a
Climbers : Tom Irving, Ally Smith
Start location:Pitch descriptions:
An alternative finishing pitch taking the arete right of the top corner pitch of Us which is easier than it looks. Belays off big bertha, the purpose made metal tube, in-situ above the arete tat lies between the top pitch of banshee and pilgrim’s progress.Additional info:
Comment from second ascentionist: E2 5b. TricamRock 10 useful. Use the dodgy block with care, though it seemed to hold my second’s weight
Submitted by : Martyn Richards
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Lion Rock
Date of ascent : 26/11/11
Route name : Lion’s Pride
Length/grade/stars : *** F8a
Climbers : M.Richards, A.Sharp and M.Shewring
Start location:
A very worthwhile link up combining some of the best the Lion has to offer. Start as for Human ZooPitch descriptions:
Climb Human Zoo to its second bolt, move right into Cheddar Death Knell and then Taming the Lion, pull up to the roof (peg and then bolt) before pulling up and rightwards into the niche and big undercuts on Shadow Walker, move right and finish up bulging arête (finish of Lion sleeps tonight).
Submitted by : Martyn Richards
Area : Avon and Cheddar
Crag : Lion Rock
Date of ascent : 19/11/11
Route name : Circus Finale
Length/grade/stars : *** F7c+
Climbers : M Richards, A Sharp
Start location:
Start on Circus CircusPitch descriptions:
A sporty finish to Circus Circus moving left onto the face from jugs post crux to finish up bulging arête of Lion Sleeps Tonight.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Callow Rocks,Shipham,near Bristol.
Date of ascent : 26/February/2012.
Route name : A Dream of White Goods.
Length/grade/stars : 12 metres,severe,one star.
Climbers : Martin Bazley.
Start location:
Park in the layby 500 metres above the entrance to “The Perch” quarry,cross the road to the footpath entrance and walk westward uphill,a large blue pipe is visible on the right,100 metres past this a badger trail rises to the crag. At the centre of Callow Rocks is Callow Lime works Cave at NGR 448557.Pitch descriptions:
12 metres,Severe Scramble up the mud slope and enter the cave. After allowing your eyes to adjust to the darkness turn round towards the entrances,above the main entrance is a smaller secondary one and above this a third.using footholds on either wall and a hidden undercut handhold squeeze up towards and out of the top entrance. Tree belay just above.Headtorches optional.Additional info:
Solo first Ascent. It is advisable to climb here on Sundays, Bank Holidays or summer evenings when the quarry is closed.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Shoot Gully Walls.
Date of ascent : 16/April/1981.
Route name : Pyramus Direct.
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres.Hard Severe.2 stars.
Climbers : Martin Bazley,Dave Long.
Start location:
As for the Pyramus and Thisbe climbs.Pitch descriptions:
15 metres,Hard Severe.as for Pyramus to the window then bridge out and climb directly over the large chockstone to the top.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Callow Rocks,Shipham,near Bristol.
Date of ascent : 3,March,2012
Route name : Callow Youth.
Length/grade/stars : 12 metres severe.1 star
Climbers : Martin Bazley and Warner Mauri.
Start location:
Park in the layby above “The Perch”cross the road and walk up the footpath until you reach a blue pipe on your right just past this turn uphill into the wood trend right until you reach the crag.Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch, Severe, 10 metres right of Callow Lime Works Cave is a tall Ash Tree behind this is a steep corner,climb this to a mossy ledge with an old gnarled tree.Continue up the corner to the Top. Dubious fencepost belays.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Callow Rocks,Shipham,near Bristol.
Date of ascent : 3,March,2012
Route name : Spigollo Verde.
Length/grade/stars : 12 metres severe.1 star
Climbers : Warner Mauri,Martin Bazley.
Start location:
Park in the layby above “The Perch” crosss the road and follow the footpath uphill until you reach a large blue pipe on your right,just past this turn uphill into the woods and trend right to the crag.Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch 12 metres,just left of Callow Youth is a fine arête,climb this to the top.
Submitted by : Brian Mullan
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, Eagle Rock
Date of ascent : 03/03/2012
Route name : The Hive Queen
Length/grade/stars : 30m E2
Climbers : Brian Mullan, Clare Lindley
Start location:
Just about independent, but goes close to Orcrist in a couple of places. Left of the deep cleft of Thorin is a rib (start of Trim the Fringe). Start on the left side of the rib, a metre right of a tree. Climb up into a slabby recess, swing right, and pull up to gain easy-angled rock. Step left and boldly climb the delicate slab, directly above the tree, to reach the headwall. Move right and stack a couple of micros in a tiny crack; then pull up steeply up right to gain good fingerholds just left of the groovechimney of Orcrist (better wires). Climb directly up steep rock, staying left of Orcrist, to reach a small tree. Move up left of the tree and mount the huge flakeblock; then move right around a rib and finish up a narrow slab.Pitch descriptions:
One pitch E2 5bAdditional info:
Led after cleaning on abseil and top-roping the route.
Submitted by : Brian Mullan
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, The Obelisk
Date of ascent : 11.2.11
Route name : Michael Mullet
Length/grade/stars : 8m E3
Climbers : Brian Mullan
Start location:
The route takes the tiny wall on the left side of The Obelisk, between a chimney on the left and a rounded arête on the right (taken by Nobalicks).Pitch descriptions:
5c. Basically a boulder problem, perhaps best soloed; but beware the sloping landing. Can be led, although you still have to commit fully to the initial moves. Using a layaway on the edge of the chimney (no bridging across the chimney itself) and a low undercut on the right, step onto the wall and dyno for positive holds up right. A couple more steep pulls lead to an easy finish.Additional info:
Probably overgraded, but for a provisional grade I’d rather err on the high side than feel responsible for hurting somebody!
Submitted by : Brian Mullan
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, The Obelisk
Date of ascent : 27.6.10
Route name : Brandybuck Direct
Length/grade/stars : 12m E3
Climbers : Brian Mullan, Clare Lindley
Start location:
The direct start to Brandybuck. Start a metre or two right of Legolas.Pitch descriptions:
Climb up to a green bulge, and lace horizontal cracks. Make tenuous, bold moves through the bulge and up left to better holds on the short rib (wire in slot up left). Reach up right to gain the overhung crack of Brandybuck (the first really reliable gear) and climb it to the top.Additional info:
I have since heard of a probable earlier ascent; I tried to find out more but no further details have been forthcoming.
Submitted by : Brian Mullan
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, Eagle Rock
Date of ascent : 13/03/2012
Route name : Jampols
Length/grade/stars : 18m VS
Climbers : Brian Mullan, Helen Seaborne
Start location:
Start 3m left of the tree of Bifur, Descend from the BifurHobbit lower-off.Pitch descriptions:
4c. A generally easy pitch with a tricky crux. Well protected. Some of the rock is not above suspicion. Climb the shallow, left-leaning groove; then go straight up and as you near the top trend back right to exit as for Bifur.Additional info:
Led after removing some loose blocks and ivy on abseil
Submitted by : Tim Monks < < Comment – alternative
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe
Route name : Nazgul
Comment:
There’s a great variant to this route that I’ve done many times over the years. It’s the same as Nazgul, but goes right of the first peg therefore missing out the first overhang. After this it follows Nazgul, with ample gear, and feels like a steep sustained E3 5c . I think many others put off by Nazgul’s E5 price tag would enjoy doing this variant, and that it would merit a mention in the new guide.
Submitted by : Brian Mullan
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, The Glacis
Date of ascent : 23/05/2012
Route name : Glacial Point Direct
Length/grade/stars : 25m E4 One star
Climbers : Brian Mullan, Alan Wade
Start location:
On the left-hand of the two main slabs of The Glacis. This is the direct start to Glacial Point. Start a metre right of Jiggery pokery, directly in front of a sapling.Pitch descriptions:
One pitch of 25m; technical grade 5c. Equally hard as Glacial Point, and somewhat bolder, as the only protection in the first 8m is provided by some low, marginal microwires – in the real world, think solo! make hard moves to get off the ground; then climb directly above the sapling for 8m to the right-hand end of the Caveman ramp (no premature reaching left for holds andor runners on Jiggery Pokery). Make a long move up left to reach a good slanting crack (Lunar Landscape). Step one metre left to the middle of the upper slab and climb directly to the top, as for Glacial Point.Additional info:
After practice on a shunt.
Submitted by : Tracey Rodford
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Brean Down Fort Crags
Date of ascent : 19/05/2012
Route name : Obvious Crack
Length/grade/stars : 12m, HS 4c, 0
Climbers : Tracey Rodford, Nigel Barry
Start location:
Approximately 2 metres left of Fingers Crack is an obvious right facing finger crack.Pitch descriptions:
Up the right facing finger crack to the break, then over the small orange-lichenous roof. Belay a little further back.Additional info:
Lead on-sight. It may have been done before but not the small roof which was lichenous.
Submitted by : Mike Coles
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Split Rock Quarry
Date of ascent : 10/03/2012
Route name : Smashingly Obvious
Length/grade/stars : Same length as Tricky Dicky. E5 6b. 2 Stars
Climbers : Mike Coles
Start location:
Start up Smashing of Amps and continue up the crack after the fourth bolt to top out as for Tricky Dicky. Not that much new climbing but it’s the most obvious natural line of the crag and a very good route. Apparently not done before.
Submitted by : Brian Mullan
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 18 June 2012
Route name : Rain Rain Rain
Length/grade/stars : 22m E3
Climbers : Brian Mullan
Start location:
On the LH slab of the Glacis. Start at the sapling just left of the foot of the grassy rake, between Slight of Hand and Lorna’s Lunch.Pitch descriptions:
22m 6a. Climb directly above the sapling, passing just right of a large horizontal slot, and make very thin moves to reach an incipient, vertical, hairline crack. After a couple more hard moves the crack widens to form a good fingerhold and nut placement. Continue much more easily up a system of wide cracks to a lower-off, as for Slight of Hand.Additional info:
Solo after climbing the crux sequence on a shunt.
Submitted by : Jack Folkes
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Avon Gorge, Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 25/03/2012
Route name : RG Traverse
Length/grade/stars : Traverse – 3m, Height – 3m, Font 6b+
Climbers : Jack Folkes
Start location:
Sea Walls, “RG” grafitti wall. Stand start to the left of RG, traversing right.Pitch descriptions:
Font 6b+ Stand start to the left of RG. Traverese right and down, big span across RG on horibble undercut right hand crimp. Nasty polished foot swap then both hands into the corner. Then climb the corner for about 3m. No specific top.Additional info:
First tried (worked) back in oct 2011 not long after starting climbing. Completed 25/03/12 1st attempt of the day (not first climb).
Submitted by : Thomas Rogers < < Comment and route update
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date : 24 June 2012
Route name : OblivionOn sunday the 24/6/12 I was climbing Oblivion on Avon’s Suspension Bridge Buttress and I unintentionally pulled off a 1.5ft cubed sized block which has been threatening to detach for a while (I have tried this route 2 times previously in March 2012 and November 2011 and was worried about it on both occasions, down climbing from it the 1st time and falling off just above it the 2nd). It had formed a very welcome rest just above the crux.After it came away, as I hadn’t placed any gear off the block that held (a number 4 nut I had placed, ripped in the fall), I pulled my ropes and re-attempted the lead, getting it clean all the way to the highest tat covered rock anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Climbing up to the black scar direct, committing to pulling through the bulge and into the lower crux (where you pull on some undercut pockets with a high left foot and then used to reach a semi rest hanging on the block), I used an alternative further undercut pocket on the left, big enough for 3 finger tips to a depth of the first joint, then a finger lock in a thin crack just above where the block used to be with small smears for feet, I passed where the block had been. You then reach good holds on an edge rising to the right and the route continues as it did before.

This is far more sustained as a crux section and I feel that it now vouches for 6a, probably E2 if you do it as 2 pitches, but if linking P1+2 by passing the rotting Earl of Perth belay only as insitu gear instead, which is a better lead and is what I did, I feel it is easily E3 as its 57m long and, taking a reasonable rack, gear is a bit spread.
My belayer will confirm this assent if you would like and I have informed Martin Crocker and he has said he is happy to agree with my grade suggestion, based on my comments, although he hasn’t re-lead it.

Submitted by : Martin Bazley
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sanford Quarry, lower lift
Date of ascent : 22nd of July 2012
Route name : Hodor
Length/grade/stars : 9 metres, Diff,
Climbers : Martin Bazley, Warner Mauri, Natacha Rizzi.
Start location:
Approach as for the Lower lift. At the extreme left of the Lower Lift is a recently uncovered mini slab, the climb takes the right edge of this.Pitch descriptions:
A pleasant pitch (if dry) 9 metres ,Diff.2 metres left of “Mucky Pup” is a rotting railway sleeper ,the climb starts directly above this. Climb the edge of the slab to the top, good tree belay and path out under the barbed wire!Additional info:
Cleaned by abseil prior to first ascent.
Submitted by : Eric Herring
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Cheddar, Pride Evans
Date of ascent : 29/07/2012
Route name : Directoonima
Length/grade/stars : 18m. F7c+
Climbers : Eric Herring, belayed by Johnny Sweet.
Start location:
1 minute walk from roadside. Start at the left edge of the cave.Pitch descriptions:
Links the start of House Burning Down and the finish of Sing a Mean Toon, Kid. A superb and sustained direct line albeit with little new climbing. Start up HBD using its first three bolts then launch straight up to reach the loose rail of SAMTK followed by its multi-slap crux.Additional info:
Style of ascent: sport redpoint. Unrepeated. To compensate for the absence of a bolt on the link, a quickdraw can be hung on a 120 cm sling on the bolt above the loose rail: to make it hang conveniently, a second 120 cm sling can be clipped to the fourth bolt of HBD. The ancient rusty bolt below the loose rail should not be trusted.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sanford Quarry(Somerset) Ochre Slab.
Date of ascent : 29,September,2012.
Route name : 61 Today
Length/grade/stars : 15 metres,Severe,0 stars
Climbers : Martin Bazley, Warner Mauri
Start location:
The Ochre Slab is the first slab on the right when entering the Quarry from the limekiln track,the climb takes the left edge of the slab. Descend by a well worn path 20 metres back.Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch,15 metres,severe.The left edge of the Ochre Slab is bounded by an arête, this is split by a disjointed crack, the climb takes this to the top.Good tree belays.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sanford Quarry(Somerset) White Slab.
Date of ascent : 29,September,2012.
Route name : The Ramp Direct
Length/grade/stars : 45 metres Hard Severe,one star.
Climbers : Warner Mauri, Martin Bazley.
Start location:
The White Slab is the farthest one from the entrance,it is bounded on the right by a sloping corner known as The Ramp. Descent by footpath.Pitch descriptions:
1 pitch 45 metres, Hard Severe,10 metres right of the original start is an Ash Tree(directly below The Ramp, proper) climb the slab to gain the corner which leads to The Ramp, follow this to the top, stake belays.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sandford Quarry, The Broken Buttress.
Date of ascent : 27/October/2012.
Route name : Cardigano! Cardigano! << See updated Route below
Length/grade/stars : 45 metres, Very Severe, one star.
Climbers : Martin Bazley, Warner Mauri.
Start location:
At the back of the quarry the “White Slab” is bounded on the right by “The Ramp” next to this is a steep muddy gully the right arête of this is climbed by “Jez Arête” The Broken Buttress lies to the right of this.On the lower right corner of the buttress is a curious Tongue-like structure,the route starts two metres left of this.Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1, 20 metres, 4b. Start at the foot of a shallow right leading ramp, climb this on good solid holds until it converges with a crack at the top of the “tongue”, peg. Continue rightwards over more broken ground to bolt and bush belay at the foot of the “Pink Slab”.
2,10 metres, 4a. Move left to a loose rib and continue to a left leading ledge at the top of “Jez Arête” bush and peg belay.
3,15 metres, 4a. Climb directly up over broken ground to join the ledge at the top of “The Ramp” follow this to the top and stake belays.Additional info:
Pre cleaned by abseil and pegs place on first pitch.
Submitted by : Ed Southwood
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Split Rock Quarry
Date of ascent : Feb 2011
Route name : Crockers Crumbs
Length/grade/stars : 25m E4 6a
Climbers : Ed Southwood, Paul Taylor
Start location:
As for rest of crag.Pitch descriptions:
Filler in climb on poor rock that is just and excuse to try and get guide book fame. Climb Red Rag to a Bull until the bolt. Move left and climb the earthy crumbly rock to join the wide crack (original) finish of Rustic Wall. There is a rock 2 in a small crack between the bolt and the break. Not a good route.Additional info:
Abseil inspection of gear after an aborted onsight attempt.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Churchill Rocks, the Southern Outcrop.
Date of ascent : 16th /January/2013.
Route name : Filets de Sole en Goujons
Length/grade/stars : 18 metres. 1 star
Climbers : Martin Bazley, Warner Mauri.
Start location:
On the “Southern Outcrop”. 200 metres up the road from the slabs is a scruffy crag just back from the road behind the Somerset road sign.To the right of “Balcombe`s Wall” are a series of steep corners the route takes the left(newly unearthed) of these. Descent is via a Deer Track to the right of thee crag.Pitch descriptions:
18 metres,Hard Severe. The farthest left corner to the right of Balcombe`s Wall is climbed via a series of muddy ledges using tree routes as runners to a ledge 2 metres below the top. Traverse right along a large root to the top of an unusual plinth of rock”Graham`s Gravestone” and continue via a crack to the top.Additional info:
To gain the foot of the corner there is a fixed rope in place.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sandford Quarry, Broken Buttress.
Date of ascent : 18/2/13.
Route name : Cardigano!
Length/grade/stars : 60 metres, 3 pitches, Very Severe.
Climbers : Warner Mauri and Martin Bazley.
Start location:
The farthest slab into the quarry is “the White Slab”just before this is the “broken Buttress”which is split by a grubby gully. The route climbs the right side of the buttress at the foot of which there is a curious tongue like structure, 2 metres left of this is a rightward leading ramp, start here.Pitch descriptions:
Pitch 1, climb the rightward leading ramp PR to the top of the crack that ascends from the tongue PR. A rising traverse left leads to the “Berry Ledge” where there are two 8m bolts to belay on.
Pitch 2, Climb up leftwards PR into an alcove with a small rotting Buddleia bush and an indistinct borehole. Move slightly rightwards to the crux PR, then climb directly to the ledge at the top of “Jez Arête” peg and bush belay.
Pitch 3, Climb the succession of short walls leftwards towards the top of “The Ramp” Stake belays.Additional info:
Cleaned by abseil. This route makes the original route Cardigano! Cardigano! (completed in a hurry due to approaching darkness) redundant and is by far a more natural line.
Submitted by : Ian Faulkner
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Cooks Wood Quarry, The Back Wall
Date of ascent : 02/04/2012
Route name : Thaw Lord
Length/grade/stars : 15m, VS 4c, 0 stars
Climbers : Ian Faulkner
Start location:
Starts at the base of the obvious crack in the centre of the orange wall to the right of ‘Farewell to Old Times’.Pitch descriptions:
Follow the crack to its end where a mantel is needed to reach the bolt lower offs.
Submitted by : Ian Faulkner
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Cooks Wood Quarry, The Back Wall
Date of ascent : 02/04/2012
Route name : Dancing in the Dust
Length/grade/stars : 20m, HVS, 0 stars
Climbers : Ian Faulkner
Start location:
Start at the right end of the orange wall to the right of ‘Farewell to Old Times’, the route starts in a left facing corner.Pitch descriptions:
20m, 5b. Follow the corner for 3m before stepping left onto a small ledge. Follow the crack systems up, surmount a small ledge and continue up the crack above to a break. The top is reached with ease but care required. Tree belay.Additional info:
Led clean after having abseiled the line to clean it.
Submitted by : Nigel Barry < < Comment by Mark Davies
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, Airport Approach Buttress
Date of ascent : 08/06/2013
Route name : We have got tickets to ride
Length/grade/stars : 18m, VS 4b, one star
Climbers : Tracey Rodford, Su Paton, Nigel Barry
Start location:
On the buttress marked as “cliff dangerous” on the AWT reserve circular path. The shortest approach is via the Fountain Sawmill. It is possible to scramble down either side of the buttress.Pitch descriptions:
There are 3 PR’s on the bulging central section of the buttress. Martin Crocker routes? Start below the groove on the RHS of the butress. Make a hard mantleshelf onto a small ledge, before climbing a finger flake to a ledge. Pull over the bulge and finish rightwards up the nice slab to the yew tree. Fixed rope recommended to pull over the top since there are loose blocks jammed in the exposed tree routes. An inferior LH finish has alos been climbed, but exits onto a scree ledge.Additional info:
Led on-sight after a light brushing.

<
This is not a new route, The buttress is known as The Carrock and the route in question is called ‘Carl‘ originally graded Severe (but more like HS 4b) climbed in the 70’s by Keith Williams. details in the 1981 Cheddar supplement.

Submitted by : Stuart Ivory
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sand Point, Middle Hope
Date of ascent : 30/06/2013
Route name : Spoons in the Mousse
Length/grade/stars : 8m, Severe, 0
Climbers : Stuart Ivory
Start location:
Approach as for Middle Hope (p201 in Avon and Cheddar guide). About 50m before you reach Lip Slip from the bay is a cleft formed by two opposing, sharp arêtes.Pitch descriptions:
Take the second groove left of the cleft to reach a small roof at three quarter height. Pull round the roof on fingery holds to reach jugs and an easy finish.Additional info:
Soloed. Gear placements available if wanted.
Submitted by : Stuart Ivory
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sand Point, Middle Hope
Date of ascent : 30/06/2013
Route name : Fork in the Road
Length/grade/stars : 8m, Difficult, 0
Climbers : Stuart Ivory
Start location:
Approach as for Middle Hope (p201 in Avon and Cheddar guide). About 50m before you reach Lip Slip from the bay is a cleft formed by two opposing, sharp arêtes.Pitch descriptions:
Follow the slabby lefthand arete that forms the cleft. Harder and better if you stay true to the arête near the top.Additional info:
Soloed.
Submitted by : Stuart Ivory
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sand Point, Middle Hope
Date of ascent : 30/06/2013
Route name : Hubris
Length/grade/stars : 7m, Severe, 0
Climbers : Stuart Ivory
Start location:
Approach as for Middle Hope (p201 in Avon and Cheddar guide). About 50m before you reach Lip Slip from the bay is a cleft formed by two opposing, sharp arêtes.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the open chimmney created by the underside of the lefthand arête to a steeper finish.Additional info:
Soloed. Gear placements available if wanted.
Submitted by : Stuart Ivory
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sand Point, Middle Hope
Date of ascent : 30/06/2013
Route name : To the Man in Room 34…
Length/grade/stars : 7m, Hard Severe, 0
Climbers : Stuart Ivory
Start location:
Approach as for Middle Hope (p201 in Avon and Cheddar guide). About 50m before you reach Lip Slip from the bay is a cleft formed by two opposing, sharp arêtes.Pitch descriptions:
4c. Layback steeply up the underside of the right arête until you can bridge across to the slabby back wall of the cleft. Step across onto the slab to a pocket and flake. Pass the first small roof on its left using the thin crack above and finish direct over the second small roof on good holds.Additional info:
Soloed.
Submitted by : Martin Bazley.
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Sandford Quarry, on the Lower Lift.
Date of ascent : 30/8/13
Route name : Hotblack Desiarto
Length/grade/stars : 10 metres, Severe, 1 star.
Climbers : Martin Bazley, Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies.
Start location:
On the Lower Lift,abseil in from the “Graffiti Gallery” or scramble down the concrete ramp. The route is on the left side of the slab between “Curvaceous” and “easy Route”.Pitch descriptions:
10 metres, 4B. Between “Curvaceous” and “Easy Route is a section of unbroken slab,the climb takes this directly, finishing a a metal stake(2 metres right of the stake on “Curvaceous”). Well protected with wires and cams.Additional info:
Cleaned on abseil.
Submitted by : Andy Blakely
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, WL Cave Area
Date of ascent : 06/Oct/2013
Route name : I’ve Started So…
Length/grade/stars : 27m, VD
Climbers : Andy Blakely
Start location:
Immediately left of the cave 4m left of “Nevie Noo”Pitch descriptions:
27m. Start just left of the cave entrance. Climb up and step right to small ledges above it. Go diagonally left to the overlap and step onto it above a doubtful portion. Climb up to the right of the next overlap and step left onto it at it’s most solid part. Continue up clean rock to finish at the left of the boulder on the skyline. (Little protection & poor rock).Additional info:
On sight solo
Submitted by : Dave Talbot
Crag : Sea Walls Avon Gorge
Date of ascent : 11/6/14
Route name : Before Bloc
Length/grade/stars : 18m E1 5c 1 star
Climbers : Steve Winslow and Dave Talbot
Start location:
Start 3 meters left of Edge Master at the foot of the slab.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab into the high corner. Place bomber gear in crack above you below the peg using a sharp undercut, now make a hard move to gain the crack from the left. Get in balance using a knee bar and place more good gear onto of the block. Now staying right of the arete stand up and stretch for the obvious flat holds. Finish up the groove of Nightmare to the tree and abseil off. A really fun route with good gear.Additional info:
The chances of this not being climbed are slim to none. There is a peg in the crack that has been there for donkeys years but no routes go to it. This is an obvious line and has great climbing and good gear. Maybe someone knows more then me about this route? Good fun all the same, go and climb it
Submitted by : Dave Talbot
Crag : Sea Walls Avon Gorge
Date of ascent : 11/6/14
Route name : Nightmare Super Duppa Direct
Length/grade/stars : 18m HS 4b 1 star
Climbers : Dave Talbot and Steve Winslow
Start location:
Start 3 meters left of Edge Master and the foot of the slab.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the slab and then move left into the corner of Nightmare were this routes traverses left. Go up the crack in the left side of the block and place good gear in the break. Climb the short wall above using good holds and finish up the groove as for Nightmare. A super direct version of Nightmare.Additional info:
The chances of this route not being climbed before are winning the lottery odds but this makes a lot of sense as a climb, the moves are great and the climbing direct on grippy rock. A good route at the grade for Avon.
Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Crag : Avon Gorge, Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date of ascent : 27/02/2015
Route name : The Return of the Fencing Master
Length/grade/stars : 28m HVS 1 star
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Steve Marriott
Start location:
Starting at a leftward-facing niche with two large rock anchors.The route takes the black wall well to the left of The Future is Rosy.Pitch descriptions:
Traverse left up an ledge system for 2m before heading straight up the black wall to a good thread. Continue very enjoyably up the black wall, loudly lamenting the total lack of runners, until a large ledge is reached. Pleasant climbing up the shattered arête above (using the netting for handholds is clearly cheating) follows. Traverse the ridge to a large tree and excellent stanchion.Additional info:
A serious route that takes the black wall well to the left of The Future is Rosy, exiting between the rolls of rock fencing.
Descent: Abseil of the tree (no strop fitted currently).
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, The Entry Wall (p 20)
Date of ascent : 08/04/2015
Route name : Carjackass
Length/grade/stars : 6m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre left of Rub-a-Tyre.Pitch descriptions:
Climb leftwards up the white-flecked slab.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, W/L Cave Area (p 30)
Date of ascent : 08/04/2015
Route name : Monte Cristallo
Length/grade/stars : 20m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start immediately right of Cristel Wall.Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb rightwards and follow the left side of the bounding ridge of the wall to a ledge. Follow the deep crack of Cristel Wall for 2 metres, then traverse out rightwards across the flowstone; before finishing up the cracks just left of the loose arête.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, W/L Cave Area (p 30)
Date of ascent : 08/04/2015
Route name : Terra non Ferma
Length/grade/stars : 23m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres LEFT of I’ve Started So….., below a tongue of rock forming a small overlap.Pitch descriptions:
Climb past the tongue and continue up the left side of the brown slab to gain broken ground. Scramble up the loose corner (probable crux!) and finish up the cleaner rock as for I’ve Started So…Additional info:
Rockfall update: A rockfall has affected the upper overlap of I’ve Started So…. This route was repeated (grade and looseness confirmed!); and the step left was made below the scar!
A portion of the slab above the overlaps on Rob’s Slab (just right of Seven-mile Throb) has exfoliated, demolishing the slumped blocks!
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry, Shatter Cave Area (p 37)
Date of ascent : 08/04/2015
Route name : Titania
Length/grade/stars : 16m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Blue Nose, Blue Toes.Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb directly up the slab, with a thin move to gain a small ledge below the overlap and just left of the buddleia. Finger-lock the thin crack above and pull through the overlap.Additional info:
Quite good and well-marked, but not in the little book!
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 11/05/2015
Route name : Skivvy
Length/grade/stars : 20m VS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start as for Epic-dural.Pitch descriptions:
4c Climb the right edge of the slab to gain the main horizontal crack. Follow this leftwards, until more difficult traversing moves are made to reach the broken corner on the left of the slab. Move up and rightwards carefully to a tree. Either abseil off, or finish up one of the upper pitches.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 11/05/2015
Route name : Scruffy,Shy,Retiring Type
Length/grade/stars : 15m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
The best (don’t get too excited!) of the scruffy slabs to the right of Blue Nose, Blue Toes. Start 18 metres right of that climb below a slab with a curving crack in its right side, and a large tree in its left corner.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the curving crack to gain a rib. Pull leftwards over small, loose bulges and climb the dark seam in the upper slab, exiting rightwards.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 13/05/2015
Route name : Dyke Dyce
Length/grade/stars : 14m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 15m LEFT of Fairy Lites below a rib with a concrete dyke in its left-hand side.Pitch descriptions:
Gain and climb the concrete dyke and continue up the deteriorating rib to sapling belays. Abseil descent, care required!
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 16/05/2015
Route name : Jenga Rock
Length/grade/stars : 9m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 2 metres left of the initial crack of Halfway to Kansas.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the small inset slab up and leftwards to a tree, on echoing holds. Abseil descent.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 16/05/2015
Route name : Reigen
Length/grade/stars : 16m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 4 metres LEFT of Dyke Dyce at a curious rounded groove.Pitch descriptions:
Climb up rightwards to avoid the loose shield at the base of the rounded groove. Continue up the groove on better rock, but poor protection, to a buddleia. Pull around leftwards and continue left to reach a cluster of saplings on the terrace.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 16/05/2015
Route name : Plaque Gris
Length/grade/stars : 14m VD
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Forty metres right of the start of pitch 2 of Om Puri the terrace comes to an end. Above this point is a grey slab of more continuous rock, with a borehole in its centre. Start 2 metres right of the borehole.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the shallow grooves in the right side of the slab trending rightwards to the top.
Submitted by : Ben Darby
Crag : Sea Walls
Date of ascent : 02/06/13
Route name : 299 With a Conservatory
Length/grade/stars : 6 pitches VS 4c
Climbers : B Darby, P Holy
Start location:
R-L traverse of Sea Walls obvious rising fault. Likely done before. Heavily vegetated in parts. Start at foot of Pandansac.Pitch descriptions:

  1. Easy traversing to belay bolts at top of first pitch of Ffoegs Folly
  2. A few tricky moves across the corner then continue to belay top of P1 of Gronk
  3. Climb up past bent spike then up and L to a borehole. Descend to p2 belay Puke
  4. Move up slightly then continue L making a tricky move where small foot ramp runs out. Continue through bushes to belay on or near Entrail
  5. Entrail p3
  6. Entrail p4

Additional info:
The potential to continue traversing beyond pitch 4 is difficult due to the heavily vegetated ledges which bar the way.

Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Brean Down, Fort Crags (p 214)
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Tip the Wink
Length/grade/stars : 12m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Forty metres left (west) of Moat End Chimney ia a steep, compact buttress, best gained from the grounds of the fort. Access is by abseil (very low tide required!), or scrambling down.Suggested name for buttress ;Tip Buttress?Pitch descriptions:
4a Traverse steeply rightwards for 4 metres to below a short-lived flake crack. Follow this and pull over the bulge to a finish up the left-hand groove above.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Brean Down, Fort Crags (p 214)
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Tipex
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 12 metres right of Tip the Wink at a V-groove on the right-hand side of the buttress, gained by scrambling down to the right (east) of the buttress.Pitch descriptions:
4a Climb the right rib of the V-groove and pull through the steepening; finish up the upper groove.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Brean Down, Fort Crags (p 214)
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Curve Left
Length/grade/stars : 10m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 5 metres right of Finger Crack and 2 metres left of Curving Crack.Pitch descriptions:
Follow the scoop, then bear rightwards up a crack to the ledge on Curving Crack. Finish up the wall above.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Brean Down, Fort Crags (p 214)
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Kershaw Crack
Length/grade/stars : 10m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Curving Crack below an intermittant crack in a steep wall.Pitch descriptions:
4b Climb the crack, with a few tricky moves, to the main break at the left-hand end of the roof. Step left and continue to the top.
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Brean Down, Fort Crags (p 214)
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Baphomet
Length/grade/stars : 40m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start at the foot of Red Wall Corner.Pitch descriptions:
4a Move out left to a ledge and go leftwards around the rib to small ledges (belay advised!). Go left again and climb a red groove to below the main corner of Gone Fishing. Cross the fine grey wall leftwards into the shallow groove of Birthmark. Move up a short way, then move left and back down to the line; before continuing into Curving Crack (optional belay!). Continue left and finish with a final flourish onto the finishing, half-height terrace. Nice, elegant climbing on which the diligent will find plenty of gear!
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Brean Down, Fort Crags (p 214)
Date of ascent : 07/06/2015
Route name : Gem Gamalan
Length/grade/stars : 6m S
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
Start 1 metre right of Red Wall Crack (Right).Pitch descriptions:
Follow the thin crack for 2 metres, then step right to finish up the shallow groove. The rib immediately right is Dry Land (6m VD Clarke 7.6.15), if climbed direct; or D if the cracks on its right-hand side are utilized!Additional info:
These two pleasant little routes are marred by the high ledges below; but at least they are accessible at high tide!
Submitted by : Barry Clarke
Crag : Fairy Cave Quarry
Date of ascent : 10/06/2015
Route name : Pixies’ Plod
Length/grade/stars : 100m HS
Climbers : BJ Clarke (solo)
Start location:
An interesting half-height, left to right girdle of the brown slabs area. Start as for Nevie Noo.Pitch descriptions:
Climb up rightwards to the broad rib and follow the holds rightwards into The Socialist (belay possible!). Cross Balch’s Slide and dip under the hanging blocks of The Tory; before continuing into Anty Matter (belay possible!). Continue right (descending slightly) to below the stacked blocks on Running on Empty, where a bald slab prevents progress. Solve this by descending 2 metres to a break and follow this; cross the earth slope and join Elephant’s Back at the left side of its bulge. Follow this route to the top.
Submitted by : Mike Coles
Crag : Pigs Hole, Cheddar Gorge South
Date of ascent : 27/06/15
Route name : Thank Fist For That
Length/grade/stars : 25m (?) 8a+ 1 star
Climbers : Mike Coles
Start location:
The back of Pig’s Hole at the entrance to the cave.Pitch descriptions:
Climb Woody’s Traverse to the shake out spot then climb Licking Tarmac to the anchor before stepping left into Road to Gdansk.Additional info:
Not sure of the grade will need some repeats to firm up. Probably harder than Straw Dogs, Probably bottom end 8a+
Submitted by : James Marshall
Crag : Avon Gorge, Sea Walls (Unknown Buttress)
Date of ascent : 23/03/14
Route name : It Wasn’t Me
Length/grade/stars : 27m 7c 2 stars
Climbers : James Marshall
Start location:
Start as for ‘Was it You’, E7 6c, at the newly bolted hanging belay.Pitch descriptions:
Climb the easy opening sequence of ‘Was It You’ to the thin break and natural peg and compose yourself for a direct assault up the ‘holdless’ wall where the parent route wimps-out leftwards. At the thin horizontal seam make a ‘baby bouncer’ between the parent’s bolt and the peg on Tour de France. The final attack is made without any protection until the final bolt of the parent can be clipped, however a slightly safer option is to first, tenuously clip the peg on Tour de France with a long reach out right. Finish at the in-situ lower off.
The Industrious Immigrant

The Industrious Immigrant

Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date of ascent : 13/08/2015
Route name : The Industrious Immigrant
Length/grade/stars : 30m HS 4a
Climbers : Colin Knowles, Steve Marriott, Mike Demenis
Start location:
Suspension Bridge Buttress West Face, South end.

Pitch descriptions:
A pleasant route that takes the wall right of the start of The Return of the Fencing Master, exiting as for that route. Starting at the short stepped rib just to the right of the two large rock anchors, climbing the wall above on the right using crystal pockets. At the ledge system step right and climb the clean wall (peg) enjoyably to a larger ledge. Gain the attractive groove 2m left and climb to the large bay, and move left (care needed with slippery netting underfoot) to join the final section of The Return of the Fencing Master. Traverse the ridge to a large tree and excellent stanchion.

Additional info:
Descent: Abseil of the tree (no strop fitted currently) or descend on foot via the keep netting and easy angled slabs to the south.

Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Crag : Suspension Bridge Buttress
Date of ascent : 18/08/2015
Route name : Drypass
Length/grade/stars : 25m VS 4b *
Climbers : Colin Knowles, David Radley
Start location:
Start as for Drain. A charmingly steep and exposed route takes the wall left of The Drain, and is sure to become a crag classic. Low in the grade and well protected.Pitch descriptions:
Follow the Drain until about to enter its depths. Step well left onto good footholds on the face, and climb up and slightly left until standing in a very large crystal-line pocket. Climb up the small-pocketed wall above and over the slight roof to the belay above The Drain. Descent: Abseil as per The Drain.
Submitted by: Jerzy Wieczorek
Crag: Fairy Cave Quarry, Entry Wall Area

Gift to the Redundant

Date of ascent: 30/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m, VS
Climbers: Jerzy Wieczorek, Colin Knowles, Mike Demenis

Start location:

4m to the left of Yet Another Bristolian Affair

Pitch descriptions:

20m, 4c. Climbs the slabby wall to the left of Yet Another Bristolian Affair. Start 4m left of the arête of that route and climb up and left along the obvious line of weakness in the slab until the sloping ledge in the recess is reached. Arrange protection then use an undercut hold to break through the overhang, crux. Continue more easily to a large tree. Some loose material on the sloping ledge.

Additional info:

Cleaned on abseil. Lead after top-roping.

Comment Submitted by : Ken Daykin
Crag : Avon Gorge, Central Buttress (SW Climbs Vol 1 page 245)
Date : 21/07/2016
Route name : Piton Route

Comment

This is really a comment relating to SW Climbs Vol 1 page 245. Pitch one. Rather than belay in the niche as described climb through the weakness in the bulge to belay immediately.A reasonably comfortable belay with three pegs available (July 2016) and a slightly better line on the rope to protect the second.
Pitch 3 I used the large tree at the top instead of fence posts to belay.

Submitted by: Michael Govier
Crag: Snuff Mills

Bowed Wall

Date of ascent: 21/02/2017
Length/grade/stars: E2 5b
Climbers: Michael Govier, Philip Govier

Start location:

From the small car park at the end of Frenchay Road, go through the barrier and head 100m up the path to reach the crag on your left hand side. You will find a small discerning outcrop set back from the path. The route starts on the central face in the middle.

Pitch descriptions:

From the start (in the middle) scramble over the jutting ledges to the first hard move which is out right to a small blind ledge, then teeter across some small ledges to reach up to the first bit of gear (over halfway) which is a nut in the flake, from here its a really powerful move to a pocket (this doubles as your next and best gear placement which is a small cam) then follow the really small edges up and past the small overhanging block to get to salvation.

Additional info:

Really pumpy and slightly green.

Fairy Cave Quarry > The Entry Wall

Summer Saturday Stroll

25m S 4b ☆
21-Jul-2018, Colin Knowles, Sarju Mashru
Start location: Between Yet Another Bristolian Affair and Rubble without a Cause, at an easy-angle bay.
Pitch descriptions: Ascend the easy-angled bay to its apex, step right and climb easily to a sycamore tree. Find excellent protection in a diagonal crack behind the tree, then put together on interesting sequence to climb the short overhanging wall. Above slabs lead to vegetated ground and large ash tree for the belay.

Fairy Cave Quarry > The Entry Wall

Daba Do

25m HS 4a
01-Aug-2018, Colin Knowles
Start right of the arête of Yet Another Bristolian Affair below a groove directly under an ash tree in middle of the face. Pitch descriptions: Climb directly up the groove and pass the ash tree. Climb the groove and overhang behind the ash tree in an exciting position to reach a second ash tree. Exit diagonally left to belay at the large filed maple.

Avon Gorge > Unknown Area > Unknown Wall > The Bilk Area

Appendix

54m E4 6a
02-Oct-2018, Kevin Bridges, Ollie Bridges
An enjoyable appendage to the climbs on the Unknown Wall. The crux arête is avoidable so only warrents the grade if adhering to the true line.

  1. 27m 6a Men of the World pitch 1
  2. 27m 6a Traverse right from the belay passing the line of pegs then step down slightly to hand traverse right along the good break. Up above the break and just before the corner of Urban Gorilla, is a shot hole. Reach up for this then using good layaways and holds, swing directly up the bulging wall until stopped by the blank white wall above. Tip toe leftwards and clip the peg on Blik. Taking a disciplined approach to avoid the temptation of using the Bilk crack, climb the left arête of the white wall directly above the peg until emerging into the corner. Move up the corner, clipping the peg on the left before swinging up right to sensationally pull over the widest part of the overhang.

Fairy Cave Quarry > The East End

Screech Owl

26m E3 6a
07-May-2019, Joel Self

The route is a somewhat eliminate affair situated between ‘Seven-Mile Throb’ on its left and ‘Bollock Bomb’ to the right. (See topo (Route Marked in White). The climb starts up the bottom slab to an obvious left hand flake and crack (the start of ‘Seven-mile Throb’.) This initial overlap provides good protection in the form of a small cam, make two technical moves out right to a second larger flake. (Treat this flake and undercut to its left with care, they sound hollow and are essential holds, its best to avoid placing protection against them as this will aid your fall no more than the other options for gear around you yet it might damage the route if you did!) Make a desperate reach up and right to a powerful two finger undercut (the first crux) using the undercut pull up and onto the next overlap. Here a moment of peace can be achieved as you look down at your smiling belayer below, or not as the case may be. One more bold move (second crux) using a right hand side pull and a left hand slot will find your feet on the second to last overlap where a good jug can be found and praised allowed! Follow the top slab now as for ‘Lippy Fairy’ until the summit of the route is reached and your heart can once again leave your mouth! FA- Joel Self 07/05/2019.

Suspension Bridge Buttress

The Caulker

60m E1 5a ☆
30-May-2019, Colin Knowles, Sarju Mashru (alt leads), Jerzy Wieczorek, Julio Sanchez
Avon, Suspension Bridge Buttress, West Face The Caulker 60m E1 4b/c, 5a * This route takes an interesting line up the right side of the buttress, crossing the lines of Limbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby to create a trio of worthwhile routes. The first pitch is directly under the line of the abseil descent, providing an opportunity for inspection and further cleaning. The route is very low in the grade, and after significant traffic will probably be regraded to HVS. Start 7m right of the start of Limbic Dystrophy at a pair of metal reinforcing rods. Pitch 1 30m 4b/c Climb up and trend slightly left on compact rock passing two small bays (peg). Cross cleaned ledges to a pocketed wall and traverse right 3m using pockets (peg). Climb the pocketed wall up a slight groove to an interesting hole (old peg above). Climb compact rock to a large rad rhomboidally-shaped rock (nut and cam belays abound). An alternative is to start up Limbic Dystrophy and at the slab below the initial arete to trend rightwards to join the first pitch at the pocketed wall. Pitch 2 30m 5a To the left is a right-facing corner. Climb this (peg) using an inconspicuous pocket with interesting moves to reach a break. Climb the groove/arete of Limbic Dystrophy then continue directly up the arete above in a splendid position. Belay at the large ash tree. An amusing alternative is to start by climbing onto the red rhomboid and athletically ascend the white wall above. First Ascent: Colin Knowles, Sarju Mashru (alternate leads), Jerzy Wieczorek, Julio Sanchez 30/5/19. The pitch variants were climbed by Sarju Mashru, Colin Knowles (alternate leads) and Jerzy Wieczorek on 13/5/19.

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Portishead Quarry

A Drying Wind

30m HS 4b ☆
19-Jun-2020, Colin Knowles, Evan Hall
Climb ‘One Rainy Wish’ to the overhanging block at 15m. Traverse twin horizontal cracks and continue in the same line until moving up to the bolt lower-off of Pharos/The Baldest. Varied and interesting climbing with good protection.

Main Area > Morning Slab

Route Comment: Mike’s Mistake

01-Jan-1970,
Hello Climbers Club Team, Can I ask why the grade of this climb in your guide is E2 5B whereas in the Rockfax guide it is only E1 5B. Obviously it is only a grade point up however in asking UKC to change there grade to match yours I was told they wouldn’t. Why have you graded it differently? Best Regards, Phil.

Main Wall > Main Wall Left

Readjusted

44m E2 5b ☆☆
11-Aug-2020, Colin Knowles, Evan Hall
Readjusted 44m E2 5b ** First Ascentionists: Colin Knowles, Evan Hall 11/08/2020 Second Ascentionists: Evan Hall, Colin Knowles 11/08/2020 This fine route finesses the gap between Maltravers and Maladjusted with its delicate climbing in the middle section and offers excellent rough rock in its upper wall. In style, length and position it is a worthy addition to Main Wall, and will improve in its upper part for use. Follow Maladjusted until below to the (current) third peg. Move delicately right to a sloping brown ledge then balance up just left of Maltravers until moves left into a niche (peg on the left). Move up slightly right till near a high peg on the right, then step left into a niche and rejoin Maladjusted, following it to the peg in the groove above the overhang. Continue straight up through the botanical bay, then directly up the pleasant rough wall passsing the overhang on its right to a very sound whitebeam belay.

Fairy Cave Quarry > The Entry Wall

Enter Lockdown Two

6m VD ☆
05-Nov-2020, Muny Baborovsky & Tony Raphael
A short, clean slab/corner, about 6m L of Rub-a-tyre. Solid rock, good protection, may have been soloed before.

Main Wall > Main Wall Left > The Maltravers Area

Readjusted Direct Start

44m E3 5c ☆☆
04-Sep-2020, Colin Knowles (roped solo)

This variant on Readjusted is quite serious; the grade needs to be confirmed by those who climb regularly at E2-E4. Start as for Malajusted, but making a rising rightwards diagonal up the slab (thin, unprotectected) to reach the arete just to the left of Maltravers. Make an awkward move to gain the arete. Follow the arete and join Readjusted at the sloping brown ledge.

Suspension Bridge Buttress > The Main Face > Traverses

Trade Union

80m E1 5a ☆☆
26-Feb-2022, Evan Hall, Colin Knowles
Synopsis: This logical extension of the venerable traverse of Clan Union has been in the pending tray since the opening up of the right hand side of the buttress with the ascent of Lymbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby. Consequently the new climbing is the section between Lymbic Dystrophy to the point where it meets the original start for Hell Gates.

Pitch 1: 22m Climb Lymbic Dystrophy to the initial ramp of Rock on Ruby. Belay in the niche (small wires and small cams).

Pitch 2: 21m. Ascend 3m to an old peg in the break. Climb leftwards along the break, intially across an easy bay, then far more thoughtfully after the rib on Heironymous, dropping a little below the break itself to maintain the grade. Well protected for both leader and second.

Pitch 3 and 4 are as Clan Union

Brean Down > Fort Crags > Shelter Chimney Area

Cyclops

22m D
22-Aug-2023, Muny Baborovsky, Donna Thompson
The groove and rib half way between ‘Furry Lees’ and ‘J Dog and the Scary Overhang’. Follow the groove until it peters out, continue along the rib and exit easily as for ‘Furry Lees’.

Brean Down > Fort Crags > Shelter Chimney Area

Eye Spy

20m HVD
22-Aug-2023, Donna Thompson, Muny Baborovsky
The rib R of ‘Balor of the Evil Eye’. Start at the foot of the big ramp sloping up to the R. Climb the steep, LH side of the rib for about 7m, then continue much more easily to the top.