Great Staple Tor, Dartmoor

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Staple Tor (p 284)
Date of ascent: 14/06/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Staple Diet

Length/grade/stars: 6m VD

Start location:

Start immediately right of Stapled Down.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the nice little rib on good holds. This now becomes the easiest way down sans rope!

Magma Ice

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Fifty metres right (in the direction of the radio mast) of the short right-hand tower containing Stapled Down is a particularly attractive buttress. It is bounded on its left by a deep gully and has a blunt rib in its centre. Start at the deep gully.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the steep left wall of the gully on amazing holds, moving slightly left near the top.

Maskelyne

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Magma Ice on a flat block.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step onto the buttress and shuffle leftwards, passing a magnificent chicken-head, to gain and follow the left edge of the buttress.

Equatermass

Length/grade/stars: 10m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Maskelyne below a shelf at the right end of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Gain the shelf from the right and traverse daintily leftwards, moving up slightly, to gain the blunt rib. Finish elegantly up this.

Additional info:

On Roos Tor, Kanga D, felt more like S 4a, despite a recent spring-clean!