Great Staple Tor, Dartmoor

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Great Staple Tor (p 284)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 20/07/2017

Corinth Ingol

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of In Charge of Small Children at a short rib on the adjacent tower.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Move up the short rib and the flake above and left to a large ledge. Make awkward moves up rightwards to gain a sloping ledge below a curious rounded scoop. Traverse precariously right and step up and left to follow a rib to the summit. To descend without a rope; reverse the final 3 metres of the route and step off rightwards.

Cat and Canary

Length/grade/stars: 9m HVS

Start location:

Start as for Equatermass.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Gain the shelf form the right, then follow the fine, multi-coloured rib above, first on the left, then on the right.

Date of ascent: 24/07/2017

Anti-Gravity

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Start as for Magma Ice.

Pitch descriptions:

Bridge and chimney up the gully for 4 metres, then swing rightwards, using a good hidden flake, to the edge. Finish up this as for Maskelyne.

Lovell

Length/grade/stars: 9m VS

Start location:

Start as for Maskelyne.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the centre of the wall, keeping just right of the chicken-head (runner!), to finish slightly leftwards through the top bulge.