Craig Coetan, Pembroke North

Stephen on Pitch 2

Submitted by: Stephen Reid
Crag: Craig Coetan

Whiting for Cod Oh!

Date of ascent: 21/09/17
Length/grade/stars: 90m MS *
Climbers: Stephen JH Reid, Sally A Reid

Start location:

Start under a bulging triangular slab approximately 3m right of Act of God and 2m left of the pinnacle of Wall Climb – a thin vertical seam provides a belay.

Pitch descriptions:

  1. 25m 4a Step left (or start direct)and climb the slab to its apex and a junction with Wall Climb. Pull up steeply and stride out left onto a flat ledge in the base of a prominent square-cut notch. Go straight up to a grass oval and belay at the start of Zig-Zag.
  2. 15m 4a From the right end of the grass oval, climb a blocky, brown, left-slanting groove to a grey niche. Either climb directly out of this, or, better, traverse left and up on superb rock. Belay on the ramp of Corridor, just above a large block.
  3. 40 4a Descend the ramp a little below the block until under a lichenous pale groove. Hand traverse leftwards under this and pull up and back right into it. Exit the groove and follow easier rock/heather to a terrace under the final easy slabs.

Additional info:

Not quite sure how this climb relates to MLK recorded elsewhere on this website but I suspect our route’s first pitch is further right. First pitch may be similar to Barry Clarke’s Tiramasu.

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