Carn Boel Seaward Face, West Cornwall

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: South Coast Carn Boel Seaward Face (p 28)
Date of ascent: 23/05/2016
Climbers: R Seymour, BJ Clarke

Pudding Boel

Length/grade/stars: 16m VS

Start location:

Fifteen metres LEFT of Toot the Tug Boat, the cracked grey wall terminates at a chimney. Start below this chimney and just right of an impending wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull steeply into the chimney and climb it for 4 metres; before making an interesting move out left onto a ledge. Move left for 2 metres and climb delicately up into a scoop, finish up this.

River Man

Length/grade/stars: 17m HVS

Start location:

Ten metres right of Pudding Boel and 5 metres left of Toot the Tug Boat, a block stands in front of the central recess of the wall. At the back of the recess is an impending corner with an off-width crack to its left and a shallow groove to its right. Start on the block.

Pitch descriptions:

5b Launch leftwards into the off-width crack and levitate upwards to a welcome easing above half-height. Large cams essential!

Magnolia Hawks

Length/grade/stars: 18m E1

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of River Man on the same block.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Pull steeply into the shallow groove on the right and continue up to gain a crack. Move up and rightwards to reach a small spike on the arête. Continue up the arête to the top break, traverse left and use the diagonal cracks to gain the top.

Cotton Blossom

Length/grade/stars: 16m VS

Start location:

Start as for Toot the Tug Boat.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow Toot the Tug Boat to the small roof, then continue directly up the twin cracks and corner to the top.

Date of ascent: 30/05/2016
Climbers: R Seymour, BJ Clarke

Pink Moon

Length/grade/stars: 17m E1

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Pudding Boel.

Pitch descriptions:

5b Gain a ledge below a short, impending brown wall. Step right and move up and leftwards onto a small ledge below twin, thin cracks. Climb the wall just right of the cracks to large footholds below the upper crack, follow this crack to the top.

Climbers: BJ Clarke, R Seymour

Steamboat Willie

Length/grade/stars: 20m E1

Start location:

Start as for Pink Moon.

Pitch descriptions:

5b Follow Pink Moon to the large footholds below its upper crack. Traverse right (low gear!) to the break of River Man. Continue diagonally rightwards up the red and white vein to the top.