Bouldering Coaching Meet 2014

Bouldering Coaching Meet 2014, Downes Hut

Astrid Saxby’s determination paid off

Attendees: Alison Cairns, Peri Stracchino, Astrid Saxby, Andy Saxby, Clair Wilson, Steve Blackman and of course our coach for the weekend Andy Swann.

Last years meet was obviously enjoyed by everyone including the coach as this year Andy was present not only as Coach but also as a CC member. Hopefully this weekend will not have made him regret his decision. As well as the return of Andy we also had a matching set of Saxbys this year – last year Andy had to bail due to an arm broken on the Cornish meet. Honestly, Andy, those are extreme lengths to go to to avoid a meet, most people just plead work or a cold.

This years’s meet had an international flavour as members of the Oslo Climbing Club had been present in the hut all week to sample the grit. Coming from one of the few european countries with a wetter climate than us, they were hardened to constant rain and we were impressed by their persistence in the face of intermittent drizzle and midges and also by their dedicated practical research into english beer and pubs.

Back to the bouldering. Weatherwise it was a thorougly mixed bag. Several of us took advantage of the lovely Friday weather to come down early and grab a few routes before settling down to the main theme of bouldering. Alison and I managed to climb at Froggat till six before admitting defeat in the face of midgery, Claire arrived at the hut on foot late that evening having also had a day out. Next day Andy S arrived and after introductions and the usual dithering over the weather we decided to head to the boulders on top of Froggat, as these were likely to be quick drying and in the breeze so midge free. I really enjoyed this as I’ve often passed the boulders on the way back from the crag but never explored them. Alison showed admirable persistence on a very dynamic arête here, amazing she had any skin left but she eventually solved the problem – it wasn’t beating her. Astrid displayed a methodical approach, working steadily away on areas she wanted to work on, and looking controlled and elegant at all times. No further worries about the weather, the day cleared up and soon we were slapping on the sun cream and moving on to Curbar, where we found some suprisingly good problems in the little quarry. As last year, there was a range of experience and confidence in the group and as the day went on we all uncovered different areas we wanted to work on, with encouragement and support coming not only from Andy but everyone in the group. As the day went on, another theme emerged – Claire’s slight tea and cake obsession, so at her instigation we all stopped off at the refreshment van before a final, rather weary, assault on the trackside boulder before the trek back to the hut.

Norwegian and English singing

After a meal and a few pints at the Grouse we returned to the hut to find the Norwegians in singing mood. Well one of them anyway. He introduced a ‘tradional norwegian fishermans song’ which seemed as new to the rest of the Norwegians as to us. After several more pints and a lot of banter about Norwegian and British crags, insects and weather we returned the favour with a few verses of Ilkley Moor Baht’at. It’s well known that all Norwegians speak perfect English, but this proved too much even for them, and our explanations about catching colds, worms and ducks didnt really seem to clear things up much.

Next day we were not so lucky with the weather. After a dogged hour or so bouldering in drizzle at Birchens, with Steve apparently determined to plug away no matter what the weather while the rest of us one by one retreated to the shelter of the overhangs, we eventually realised things weren’t going to improve (the trickles of water beginning to stream down the topouts were a clue) so headed back to the hut for luhch and a hut cleanup prior to a full afternoon at the Climbing Works in Sheffield. Then on to the Works. This actually worked really well, as it gave Andy the opportunity to do some concentrated technique training and we all spent some time working on dynamic movement initiated from the legs rather than hauling from the arms. By the time we finished we were thoroughly beasted and all left with lots of ideas for things we could work on, and a few grudge matches to come back to – I see from facebook that Steve has seen off his nemesis problem already :-). Thanks to all for a fun and inspiring weekend, and specially to Justin and to Andy Swann for respectively organising and coaching the meet.

Peri Stracchino