Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs, South Devon

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 12/09/2017

Very Fondant

Length/grade/stars: 12m D

Start location:

From the large ledge at the Quarry (northern) end at the start to Quality Street, walk up leftwards (facing out) for a few metres, then scramble down leftwards (facing out) to reach a small ledge just above high water mark. Start here below a slabby groove which transforms itself into a flake.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove and flake and finish rightwards.

Little Sunny Slab

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start as for Very Fondant.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Descend for 1 metre, step right around the rib and follow a shelf diagonally rightwards to below the centre of an attractive slab. Search for the crucial runner and follow the fine slab to the top.

Skid Row

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Just right of the finish of Little Sunny Slab is a cliff top cut-out. Scramble down the ridge just left (facing out) of the cut-out to high water mark; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Traverse left, with feet at barnacle level, to a small ledge, just right of the edge of the wall. From the left end of the ledge climb the wall and narrow flake crack to the cut-out.

Date of ascent: 14/09/2017

Temeraire

Length/grade/stars: 50m VS

Start location:

Start as for Quality Street (Quarry, northern side!).

Pitch descriptions:

1. 25m 4a Follow Quality Street until it begins to rise; keep low ( 3 metres above high water mark), to gain a stance atop a crinkly slab which slants down into the sea. This is where the traverse becomes much more difficult; also there is a blank groove just left and a red crack above.
2. 25m 4b Climb the steep red crack and pull over onto a white ledge ( this is where Quality Street crosses!). Move up into the groove on the right and follow it, as the angle eases trend slightly leftwards to gain the finishing terrace.

Descent:- depending on where the gear has been left, traverse left or right along the terrace. Exposed, rope recommended!

Blanca

Length/grade/stars: 10m HS

Start location:

Start as for Very Fondant.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rib on the right, step right and follow the left side of the slab via the thin, horizontal seams.

Jammy Dodger

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Jim Jam on a small flake ledge just above high water mark below the left side of the right edge of the wall. Gained by abseil or down-climbing just left (facing out) of the edge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left side of the edge to a ledge, finish up the white groove.