Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs, South Devon

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p 188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Date of ascent: 29/11/2017

Rose-Tinted

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start on a large platform (exposed at mid-tide) on the left side (facing out) of Cloudburst Buttress. gained by abseil or a down-climb (VD).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step across from the right end of the platform and follow the fine twin cracks up the bulging red wall.

Additional info:

This platform lurks just below the surface at high tide and threatens the routes on the right-hand side of Cloudburst Buttress for anyone contemplating a DWS ascent!

Right Wing

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Approach as for The Friendly Trawlerman (CC Website), but continue to scramble down the front of the buttress to mid water mark.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse rightwards across the barnacles and go around the corner of the buttress before striding across a tiny inlet. Climb the wall above on large brittle holds to a sloping ledge. A steep crack 3 metres left gives a contrasting finish.

Date of ascent: 01/12/2017

Mataeus

Length/grade/stars: 8m VS

Start location:

Start as for Rose-Tinted

Pitch descriptions:

4b Step across to below the twin cracks. Traverse right for a metre and climb a flake crack, before stepping right onto the rib. Make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge and mantel for the top. Short, but exciting!