Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs, South Devon

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Berry Head Coastguard Cliffs (p188)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Date of ascent: 14/11/2017

Roots Manuva

Length/grade/stars: 11m HS

Start location:

Start as for Teemin’ (CC Website)

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow Teemin’ for 4 metres, then step left to reach a series of slanting cracks. Move down leftwards onto a good foothold at the base of a small niche; from where a left-trending flake crack gives a brisk finish. Fine climbing!

Additional info:

The route name: apparently a famous and popular rapper (whatever that is?); but it fits!

Date of ascent: 16/11/2017

Squirm Hole

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

On the landward side of the buttress containing Teemin’ etc, is a cleft. Scramble into the cleft and belay on a black boulder at mid water level.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a short greasy corner to a ledge, then chimney out to the light.

Tinctoris

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Immediately right (facing out) of the finish of Roots Manuva (CC Website)is a recessed wall with a groove in its centre. Abseil, or down-climb the groove (VD) to footholds just above a large sea-weedy ledge (mid-tide and below and calm seas!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb back up the groove for 3 metres until above the barnacles. Step right and follow positive holds up the left side of the rib to the top.

Stonados

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start as for Tinctoris (CC Web site)

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse right for 5 metres to just short of the main corner. Move up and right to gain and follow this corner to the top.