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The following areas are currently subject to
access arrangements which differ from those published in our guidebooks:
• Cheddar Gorge
(6th September 2004)
If you become aware of any access issues or arrangements which affect CC guidebook
areas, in addition to contacting your local BMC
access officer, please send an email to
(If no contact email above ↑ - click the security banner at the top of your browser)
For a more
comprehensive view of access over the UK please visit the BMC Crags and
Access web pages:
BMC - Crags and access
Left: Tim Cairns on Erection (E2 5c), Cwm Silyn. Photo by Don Sargeant.
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Cheddar Gorge (6th September 2004)
Note regarding Reservoir Walls area access restrictions:
There is conflicting information on pages 9 and 28 of the new guide; the ban starts on July
15th, not June 15th. Apologies for this error and any inconvenience caused.
The following is from Martin Crocker (Chedder Gorge Climbing Project Coordinator)
Cheddar Gorge Main Cliffs (South Side)
The owners of the Main Cliffs of Cheddar Gorge (South Side), Cheddar Caves and Gorge, have
now agreed to climbing commencing on some of their cliffs on Sunday, 12th September 2004. This
additional consent applies only to the 130 climbs restored through the work
of the Cheddar Gorge Climbing Project supported by the BMC and The Climbers' Club.
Access to all other climbs on the Main Cliffs remains as before: i.e., in
line with the 1st October - 15th March climbing season.
This is a significant access gain and its announcement comes as Phase 2 of the Project is
about to commence.
List of Climbs Restored through the Cheddar Gorge Climbing Project 2003/04
1. ACID ROCK
(access via a scramble right of the gully/depression right of Acid Rock; then
left behind fence)
MAIN FACE:
All routes between Yup, Yup, and Away and Backhander
FREAKY WALL :
All routes between Manic Depression and Little Gem.
SUNNYSIDE TERRACE :
All routes between Branchwalker (not in CC guidebook
- this is the left-most bolt-line) and Wiggly Park.
2. THE AMPHITHEATRE
(access via 45m abseil from bolted abseil
station at top, right of the climbs (take jumars in event of failure to climb out!)
ROMAN WALL:
All routes between The Empire and Fall of the Empire
(not in CC guidebook - this is the trad line before the ivy curtain)
3. PINNACLE BAY
(access via narrow terrace under Ginsberg Wall leftwards into Shoot Gully; then scramble via
gully to relevant terrace right (Ginsberg Wall is at road level)
WARLORD WALL
All routes between Warlord and Medusa (not first pitch).
LONG WALL
All routes between Any Moment Now and Desert Gorge
(not in CC guidebook - this is trad line with thread right of Misty Morning ). It is
advised that you wear helmets at all times on this cliff.
GINSBERG WALL
All routes between Mooney Route and Ginsberg.
4. HORSESHOE BEND BUTTRESS
Round the Bend and Tied in Knots (north face), and all
routes between Partners in Crime and Tourist Distraction (south face).
5. HIGH ROCK
LEFT WING
All single-pitch routes between Play the White Man
and Still Waters Run Deep.
RIGHT WING
All single-pitch routes (or first pitches only as appropriate) between
Twilight of Imperialism and The Fall.
6. SWINE CLIFF - THE PIGS' HOLE
All routes (excluding Progressive Rock ) between Bolt Wars
and Grand National.
ESSENTIAL READING: ACCESS NOTES
A) Access to the above-listed restored climbs only is
permitted from Sunday, 12th September 2004. Extended access for spring
2005 is still under review.
B) Access to other climbs on the Main Cliffs (South Side) is not
permitted until 1st October.
C) Access is otherwise as laid out in The Climbers' Club Avon and Cheddar
guidebook: i.e., the basic climbing season is 1st October 2004 - 15th March 2005.
D) In order to optimize public safety, climbers are asked to use the
described access routes and the abseil installations.
E) Good and responsible behaviour is mandatory, since this is a very public place.
F) Any concerns should be reported to the BMC.
Photo-Guidebook
A 36-page photo-guide in full colour to the 130 restored climbs has been
written by Martin Crocker, with input from the experienced CC artwork and typesetting team
of Don Sargeant and John Willson. As well as clearly marked-up lines, it includes full details
on style, numbers of bolts, abseil stations, French grades, graded lists, etc. It costs
£5.00. Any proceeds from its sale will be ploughed back to 'buy' extra work on the Project.
Please send a cheque for £5.00 payable to Martin Crocker and a large SAE (with 42p postage) to:
Martin Crocker
23 Ryecroft Rise
Long Ashton
Bristol
BS41 9NQ
Note: copies of the guide are being home-produced on demand, so please allow
a week for delivery.
Note that the Cheddar Access Proposal does not compromise current winter-only
access arrangements.
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